MK2.5 60,000mile service
Discussion
Odie said:
What does a 60,000mile service for a mk2.5 mx5 entail?
Is it worth getting it done by a dealer for the cambelt change etc?
I am very much capable of doing it myself, but not sure if i have the tools for a cambelt change.
FYI - the cambelt change (plus associated gubbins) is pretty eaasy - I have normal, basic ish home tools, sockets spanners and scredrivers, the only extra thing I needed was to buy a couple of cheapo adjustable wrenches which are used to help no end in 'locking' the camshafts (attach em to each camshaft and zip tie them together), in order to undo the cam pulleys and to get the belt on.Is it worth getting it done by a dealer for the cambelt change etc?
I am very much capable of doing it myself, but not sure if i have the tools for a cambelt change.
Also borrowed a timing gun to make sure it was running bang on when I was finished, piece of piss to do.
snotrag said:
Odie said:
What does a 60,000mile service for a mk2.5 mx5 entail?
Is it worth getting it done by a dealer for the cambelt change etc?
I am very much capable of doing it myself, but not sure if i have the tools for a cambelt change.
FYI - the cambelt change (plus associated gubbins) is pretty eaasy - I have normal, basic ish home tools, sockets spanners and scredrivers, the only extra thing I needed was to buy a couple of cheapo adjustable wrenches which are used to help no end in 'locking' the camshafts (attach em to each camshaft and zip tie them together), in order to undo the cam pulleys and to get the belt on.Is it worth getting it done by a dealer for the cambelt change etc?
I am very much capable of doing it myself, but not sure if i have the tools for a cambelt change.
Also borrowed a timing gun to make sure it was running bang on when I was finished, piece of piss to do.
Ive read a few guides for the cambelt change, one of the best suggestions i saw was to slice the the existing cambelt in half along its length, then leave a half of it on, then push the new belt upto it then push the old half thats left off the back, then cut it in half and pull it out of the way, this keeps all the teeth exactly as they where.
Ive got a timing light, i think its been done tho but not 100% sure, they havent said its been done in the book.
Actually, physically, changing the belt is easy - as long as you've followed the procedure before hand of marking up and locking everything off.
I marked up my old belt to match the marks on the pulleys, and transferred the marks onto the new belt, plus you can count the teeth between the pulleys.
I marked up my old belt to match the marks on the pulleys, and transferred the marks onto the new belt, plus you can count the teeth between the pulleys.
[quote]
FYI - the cambelt change (plus associated gubbins) is pretty eaasy - I have normal, basic ish home tools, sockets spanners and scredrivers, the only extra thing I needed was to buy a couple of cheapo adjustable wrenches which are used to help no end in 'locking' the camshafts (attach em to each camshaft and zip tie them together), in order to undo the cam pulleys and to get the belt on.
Ive read a few guides for the cambelt change, one of the best suggestions i saw was to slice the the existing cambelt in half along its length, then leave a half of it on, then push the new belt upto it then push the old half thats left off the back, then cut it in half and pull it out of the way, this keeps all the teeth exactly as they where.
[/quote]
I just cut a block of wood to be a snug fit between the pulleys, and that held it all in place just fine. Better than the spanners really, as unless they are tight the camshafts can still move.
I agree it was an easy job, the only things worth mentioning are
1) The timing marks are not very clear, you need to clean up the backplate and use a good light.
2) When setting the belt tension, you had to be careful to make sure that the belt was in tension on the "pulling" side (ie the right), that way the spring on the tensioner takes up all the slack. So you had to rotate the crank until this was so.
4) Unless the bearing feels perfect, I'd replace the water pump while you are in there, (they are cheap - £30 from a local motor factor).
5) Replace the tensioner and idler.
I don't think a timing strobe would help on a mk2.5, as I would expect the timing is fixed by the ECU (like it is on a mk2). Its not possible to fit the crank sensor in the wrong place, therefore timing can't really be wrong.
I've also heard this thing about slicing the belt in two, and am inclined to believe that those who dispense this advice haven't done many cambelts. Even if it was easy to quickly cut the whole belt in two (they are tough), it would be practically impossible to slide the new belt on, as everything is under tension. It also assumes the tension was correct on the old belt. The way to do it is remove the old belt and get everything timed up and then set the tension as per the makers instruction.
FYI - the cambelt change (plus associated gubbins) is pretty eaasy - I have normal, basic ish home tools, sockets spanners and scredrivers, the only extra thing I needed was to buy a couple of cheapo adjustable wrenches which are used to help no end in 'locking' the camshafts (attach em to each camshaft and zip tie them together), in order to undo the cam pulleys and to get the belt on.
Ive read a few guides for the cambelt change, one of the best suggestions i saw was to slice the the existing cambelt in half along its length, then leave a half of it on, then push the new belt upto it then push the old half thats left off the back, then cut it in half and pull it out of the way, this keeps all the teeth exactly as they where.
[/quote]
I just cut a block of wood to be a snug fit between the pulleys, and that held it all in place just fine. Better than the spanners really, as unless they are tight the camshafts can still move.
I agree it was an easy job, the only things worth mentioning are
1) The timing marks are not very clear, you need to clean up the backplate and use a good light.
2) When setting the belt tension, you had to be careful to make sure that the belt was in tension on the "pulling" side (ie the right), that way the spring on the tensioner takes up all the slack. So you had to rotate the crank until this was so.
4) Unless the bearing feels perfect, I'd replace the water pump while you are in there, (they are cheap - £30 from a local motor factor).
5) Replace the tensioner and idler.
I don't think a timing strobe would help on a mk2.5, as I would expect the timing is fixed by the ECU (like it is on a mk2). Its not possible to fit the crank sensor in the wrong place, therefore timing can't really be wrong.
I've also heard this thing about slicing the belt in two, and am inclined to believe that those who dispense this advice haven't done many cambelts. Even if it was easy to quickly cut the whole belt in two (they are tough), it would be practically impossible to slide the new belt on, as everything is under tension. It also assumes the tension was correct on the old belt. The way to do it is remove the old belt and get everything timed up and then set the tension as per the makers instruction.
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