Some questions, rust, parts swapping, selling!
Discussion
A quick review of the brake pads led me to notice that the rust bug is well and truely in the process of eating the rear of the sills on the car.
Given it's not the best condition anyway I'm thinking about my options.
A)Get a quote and see how much to fix it all (replace 1 door, 1 wing and spray front 1/2 car, replace/fix rusty sills and spray.)
B)Buy another and move over my rollbar and suspention.
C)Sell it as is and Buy another/something else and start fresh. (Would anybody buy it/it's parts!)
D)Turn it into a westfield (if I had the cash, and a place to build/put it. Which I dont)
If I do B is where it gets interesting. I fancy a MK2 as they are a bit newer and have an extra 10HP. But given my 1997 MK1 is rusting do the early MK2s stand up to rust better?
Also will a Hard Dog Deuce from a MK1 fit a MK2?
So Many questions/options.... Possibly easier after I know what It'll cost to fix it up nice...
Given it's not the best condition anyway I'm thinking about my options.
A)Get a quote and see how much to fix it all (replace 1 door, 1 wing and spray front 1/2 car, replace/fix rusty sills and spray.)
B)Buy another and move over my rollbar and suspention.
C)Sell it as is and Buy another/something else and start fresh. (Would anybody buy it/it's parts!)
D)Turn it into a westfield (if I had the cash, and a place to build/put it. Which I dont)
If I do B is where it gets interesting. I fancy a MK2 as they are a bit newer and have an extra 10HP. But given my 1997 MK1 is rusting do the early MK2s stand up to rust better?
Also will a Hard Dog Deuce from a MK1 fit a MK2?
So Many questions/options.... Possibly easier after I know what It'll cost to fix it up nice...
Depends on your car which option you go for, only you know your car well enough to decide if its worth spending the money on it. If I had a car which I knew well, knew the history and I knew it was mechanically sound I would strongly consider spending time and money on it. (Option a)
Option b is worth considering if you can find a decent car (which you should be able to). IMO MK2's are just as prone to rusting as MK1's especially earlier MK2's. My dad had an immaculate 2000 W Reg MK2 low mileage and that had sills starting to rust. I'm not saying they all rust, but I don't believe a MK2 is anymore rust proof than a MK1. I think it all depends on how a car is looked after, i.e drain holes cleared regularly, undersealed etc....
Hope this helps in some way.....
Option b is worth considering if you can find a decent car (which you should be able to). IMO MK2's are just as prone to rusting as MK1's especially earlier MK2's. My dad had an immaculate 2000 W Reg MK2 low mileage and that had sills starting to rust. I'm not saying they all rust, but I don't believe a MK2 is anymore rust proof than a MK1. I think it all depends on how a car is looked after, i.e drain holes cleared regularly, undersealed etc....
Hope this helps in some way.....
Edited by FELIX_5 on Friday 5th June 14:10
The cost will depend on the degree of rot and whether it's started to be structural. I caught ours early and only had to do a repair on the very rear of one sill, and a rust bubble on the lip of the same side arch. Cost was £150 for a local coachworker to cut away all the rust, weld in a new section of sill, underseal and spray.
Mind you, the previous year someone T-boned the other side of the car, so that side had a completely new rear wing, door skin and sill at a cost of about £2k
If you love the car and trust that it's mechanically sound, a decent repair is well worth it for keeping a known quantity.
Pete
Mind you, the previous year someone T-boned the other side of the car, so that side had a completely new rear wing, door skin and sill at a cost of about £2k
If you love the car and trust that it's mechanically sound, a decent repair is well worth it for keeping a known quantity.
Pete
Paddy_n_Murphy said:
D) doesn't exist !
It certainly does - punch westfield SDV into google. I might do it with mine if i still have it in a few years. As for rust - dont just base it on age. I've seen early 90's cars with no rust, just as I've seen cars from 00's with rust.
Its condition that counts, not age.
I have a 1991 Eunos with all original paint and zero rust.
Depends all on how the car was looked after.
I am the 2nd person to have it in the UK, the guy before me was in his 60's. As soon as the Eunos hit the shores he had it fully wax oiled and only drove it in the dry.
I drive it all year wet or dry, but when I drive in winter I spray the underneath with a pressure washer every other time I have it out.
Its all about how the car is taken car off, not its age.
Depends all on how the car was looked after.
I am the 2nd person to have it in the UK, the guy before me was in his 60's. As soon as the Eunos hit the shores he had it fully wax oiled and only drove it in the dry.
I drive it all year wet or dry, but when I drive in winter I spray the underneath with a pressure washer every other time I have it out.
Its all about how the car is taken car off, not its age.
Edited by roverspeed on Sunday 7th June 10:18
Nipped into the local body shop 
. £40 a side to do the sills.
£450 to spray the car it's original colour.
Now obviously I need to supply parts (like a door and a wing and if possible sills or he'll make them up and weld them in).
Still given the local mazda specialist has said £400 to supply and fit a roof (pricey I agree. Might look around... but they are convenient).
We're looking at about ~£1300 to finish with a non-rusty car thats all the same colour.
If I get 5 years more out of it £1300 sounds pretty good.
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