Rookie question: type of coolant for mk1?
Discussion
tuttle said:
My 1st bit of fiddling with my UK mk1 1.8 will be replacing the thermostat, fan doesn't seem to be coming on (elecs appear ok). Is the type of coolant v important, any recomended type/brands?
Any tips on changing out thermo' welcome too. Thanks
IIRC the trick is not to mix one type with another as they can react to produce a precipitate and produce sludge in your system. Coolant comes in 2 flavours; blue and orange/red (I don't recall the differences between the two types, just don't mix 'em). Mine uses orange stuff from Halfrauds mixed approx. 50/50 with deionised water (you really don't want limescale in your rad so always use deionised water).Any tips on changing out thermo' welcome too. Thanks
RED, BLUE and GREEN, some are organic, mixing can stop the antifreeze from performing properly or at all and as said it can cause sludge, gelling up.
Great tip about using the De ionised water or buy it ready mixed.
The mix with a quality Antifreeze should be a third to two thirds water.
The correct antifreeze will stop the corrosion around the waterways which leads to head gasket failure.
Great tip about using the De ionised water or buy it ready mixed.
The mix with a quality Antifreeze should be a third to two thirds water.
The correct antifreeze will stop the corrosion around the waterways which leads to head gasket failure.
Either mate - not something worth worrying over - just get the same colour stuff as is in there already. If you have cooling problems you can tweak the %age water vs. anti-freeze or use an additive like redline water wetter or similar though I have no idea if these additives really do anything or not..
Cheers all. Spent an interesting afternoon changing the thermostat, flushing coolant & fixing a wing mirror that somebody tw@tted whilst I was parked at work yesterday.
Fan seems to come on fine now, though not until engine is really quite hot (1:00 oclock on the gauge) this sound normal?
Still no leaks I'm quite hAppy
Fan seems to come on fine now, though not until engine is really quite hot (1:00 oclock on the gauge) this sound normal?
Still no leaks I'm quite hAppy
tuttle said:
Cheers all. Spent an interesting afternoon changing the thermostat, flushing coolant & fixing a wing mirror that somebody tw@tted whilst I was parked at work yesterday.
Fan seems to come on fine now, though not until engine is really quite hot (1:00 oclock on the gauge) this sound normal?
Still no leaks I'm quite hAppy
Any tips on changing the thermostat tuttle? Looks like this is my next job to do as I can trip my rad fan to work but it doesn't come on when the engine gets hot (see other thread on my MOT woes this week) = research indicates thermostat replacement is in order. Did you go go for a Mazda item or after-market manufacturer btw?Fan seems to come on fine now, though not until engine is really quite hot (1:00 oclock on the gauge) this sound normal?
Still no leaks I'm quite hAppy
Glad to hear you got your cooling issue sorted
blue & green coolants are the same type and can be mixed iirc. pink/orange stuff is longlife.
Any old stuff is fine in the MX-5 as long as mixed correctly (with deionized water as already said).
You can test the fan & relay by linking GND and TFA in the diagnostic socket on the RHS of the engine bay (although if yours is a 95 on with OBD II this may not work).
I think the stat is fairly easy isn't it? Just under the pipe from the airbox at the front of the block.
If the car is getting a bit warm (1 o'clock) before fan comes in, you can check the fan temp sensor. Are you sure there isn't an airlock somewhere?
Any old stuff is fine in the MX-5 as long as mixed correctly (with deionized water as already said).
You can test the fan & relay by linking GND and TFA in the diagnostic socket on the RHS of the engine bay (although if yours is a 95 on with OBD II this may not work).
I think the stat is fairly easy isn't it? Just under the pipe from the airbox at the front of the block.
If the car is getting a bit warm (1 o'clock) before fan comes in, you can check the fan temp sensor. Are you sure there isn't an airlock somewhere?
Bluetone & NCofT.
I also thought it might be an airlock, squeezed away on the rad hoses with only minimal bubblage!
Anyhow, took the old gal out for a good & very enjoyable thrash today. Gauge was rock steady at a shade to the left of 12:00 o clock, fan cutting in on cue & no leaks.
Tips for fitting?
It's simple enough, I used the "how to" on miata garage website. Take care when scraping the old gasket not to score either surface & don't let any of the bits get in your engine. Pay attenetion to orienting the new thermo correctly- big valve at the bottom small at the top. I had a moment of mental vacum & had to stomp off to my pc to double check!(if you're fitting a mazda thermo, its a double valve jobbie).
The rad drain bolt is made of rubbish plasitc, couldn't get mine out so had drain via the bottom rad hose, bit fiddly to get at.
I got air out of the system by getting the fr wheels up on the pavement & giving the rad hoses a good squeeze.
I didn't use an after market thermo, I'm really trying hard not to start going down the modifying road again-
that road leads to madness.... see my profile with the R33 skyline project 
for proof.
Next job: sort the brakes me thinks, rear driver side binding a tiny bit....
I also thought it might be an airlock, squeezed away on the rad hoses with only minimal bubblage!
Anyhow, took the old gal out for a good & very enjoyable thrash today. Gauge was rock steady at a shade to the left of 12:00 o clock, fan cutting in on cue & no leaks.
Tips for fitting?
It's simple enough, I used the "how to" on miata garage website. Take care when scraping the old gasket not to score either surface & don't let any of the bits get in your engine. Pay attenetion to orienting the new thermo correctly- big valve at the bottom small at the top. I had a moment of mental vacum & had to stomp off to my pc to double check!(if you're fitting a mazda thermo, its a double valve jobbie).
The rad drain bolt is made of rubbish plasitc, couldn't get mine out so had drain via the bottom rad hose, bit fiddly to get at.
I got air out of the system by getting the fr wheels up on the pavement & giving the rad hoses a good squeeze.
I didn't use an after market thermo, I'm really trying hard not to start going down the modifying road again-
that road leads to madness.... see my profile with the R33 skyline project for proof.Next job: sort the brakes me thinks, rear driver side binding a tiny bit....
Edited by tuttle on Sunday 7th June 18:33
tuttle said:
Bluetone & NCofT.
I also thought it might be an airlock, squeezed away on the rad hoses with only minimal bubblage!
Anyhow, took the old gal out for a good & very enjoyable thrash today. Gauge was rock steady at a shade to the left of 12:00 o clock, fan cutting in on cue & no leaks.
Tips for fitting?
It's simple enough, I used the "how to" on miata garage website. Take care when scraping the old gasket not to score either surface & don't let any of the bits get in your engine. Pay attenetion to orienting the new thermo correctly- big valve at the bottom small at the top. I had a moment of mental vacum & had to stomp off to my pc to double check!(if you're fitting a mazda thermo, its a double valve jobbie).
The rad drain bolt is made of rubbish plasitc, couldn't get mine out so had drain via the bottom rad hose, bit fiddly to get at.
I got air out of the system by getting the fr wheels up on the pavement & giving the rad hoses a good squeeze.
I didn't use an after market thermo, I'm really trying hard not to start going down the modifying road again-that road leads to madness.... see my profile with the R33 skyline project for proof.
Next job: sort the brakes me thinks, rear driver side binding a tiny bit....
Thanks for reminding me to order a new gasket as well! Did you stick a rag or similar down the engine side of the thermostat housing to stop any bits of old gasket falling in as you scraped it off? Also, given that my expansion tank works (ie. the level goes up and down between the car being hot and cold) can I assume my radiator cap is working properly do you think? I also thought it might be an airlock, squeezed away on the rad hoses with only minimal bubblage!
Anyhow, took the old gal out for a good & very enjoyable thrash today. Gauge was rock steady at a shade to the left of 12:00 o clock, fan cutting in on cue & no leaks.
Tips for fitting?
It's simple enough, I used the "how to" on miata garage website. Take care when scraping the old gasket not to score either surface & don't let any of the bits get in your engine. Pay attenetion to orienting the new thermo correctly- big valve at the bottom small at the top. I had a moment of mental vacum & had to stomp off to my pc to double check!(if you're fitting a mazda thermo, its a double valve jobbie).
The rad drain bolt is made of rubbish plasitc, couldn't get mine out so had drain via the bottom rad hose, bit fiddly to get at.
I got air out of the system by getting the fr wheels up on the pavement & giving the rad hoses a good squeeze.
I didn't use an after market thermo, I'm really trying hard not to start going down the modifying road again-
that road leads to madness.... see my profile with the R33 skyline project for proof.Next job: sort the brakes me thinks, rear driver side binding a tiny bit....
Edited by tuttle on Sunday 7th June 18:33
I shall be taking along my trusty piece of fusewire for jumping TFA and GND diagnostic box connections for the emissions test tomo so at least I can get the fan working and keep things cool whilst they check the numbers.
As you can imagine, I really don't want to have to fork for a new OEM CAT in order to pass the emissions test. It's times like these I wish I'd known about pre- July 1992 cars being a lot easier MOT-wise (laxer emissions standards).
Blue tone the OEM thermo' comes with a gasket, (£20 from mx5parts iirc).
You will need a bit of blue silicon gasket sealant for the top housing side though.
Good luck with the emissions test. I've no idea if there's any truth in this but some of the guys over at mx5oc swear by sticking some injector cleaner-redex iirc before testing.
You will need a bit of blue silicon gasket sealant for the top housing side though.
Good luck with the emissions test. I've no idea if there's any truth in this but some of the guys over at mx5oc swear by sticking some injector cleaner-redex iirc before testing.
tuttle said:
Blue tone the OEM thermo' comes with a gasket, (£20 from mx5parts iirc).
You will need a bit of blue silicon gasket sealant for the top housing side though.
Good luck with the emissions test. I've no idea if there's any truth in this but some of the guys over at mx5oc swear by sticking some injector cleaner-redex iirc before testing.
Cheers fella, I have some liquid gasket and I stuck a preparatory half-bottle of redex in the other week; hopefully a good italian tune-up in the morning will do the job You will need a bit of blue silicon gasket sealant for the top housing side though.
Good luck with the emissions test. I've no idea if there's any truth in this but some of the guys over at mx5oc swear by sticking some injector cleaner-redex iirc before testing.
Gassing Station | Mazda MX5/Roadster/Miata | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff