What to look for
Discussion
Right then, seeing as the answer to every 'What car should I buy for 5k' thread is the MX-5, what should I be looking for in one for the said amount.
The only things I know at the moment is that I want a MK2, a 1.8 and a UK sourced car.
What are the main things to look for in terms of condition, extras and bad points?
Will be looking to use it as a toy and maybe some time on the track, but I'm not sure what they are like on the track straight out of the box, are they ok if a little 'slow' in a straight line?
The only things I know at the moment is that I want a MK2, a 1.8 and a UK sourced car.
What are the main things to look for in terms of condition, extras and bad points?
Will be looking to use it as a toy and maybe some time on the track, but I'm not sure what they are like on the track straight out of the box, are they ok if a little 'slow' in a straight line?
Yes, they're slow in a straight line, it's the corners and the feedback that we like 
First things first, check for rust. This manifests itself around the rear sills and arches. This can be pricey to fix properly.
Check the drain holes for the hood are clear as this is usually what causes the sills to rust i.e. blocked drain holes leads to water build up which means rust is much more likely.
Check the exhaust for signs of it blowing.
Check the hood is in good condition. It should have a glass rear window, but Mazda used vinyl for the hood which cracks if not warmed up before raising and lowering.
If it has over 60K on the clock, check it has had its cambelt changed.
Some wheels corrode too so check them out.
Electrics are pretty robust.
If it smells damp in the cabin i'd walk away, good, clean cars can be had easily so don't bother with one that stinks.
Engines and gearboxes are very robust and the engines can sound tappetty / clattery on start up. This should go once it has warmed through.
Clutch slave cylinders can squeek, which is usually as sign that it is on its way out. The clutch itself is usually ok.
Rust really is you main killer, to be honest.
First things first, check for rust. This manifests itself around the rear sills and arches. This can be pricey to fix properly.
Check the drain holes for the hood are clear as this is usually what causes the sills to rust i.e. blocked drain holes leads to water build up which means rust is much more likely.
Check the exhaust for signs of it blowing.
Check the hood is in good condition. It should have a glass rear window, but Mazda used vinyl for the hood which cracks if not warmed up before raising and lowering.
If it has over 60K on the clock, check it has had its cambelt changed.
Some wheels corrode too so check them out.
Electrics are pretty robust.
If it smells damp in the cabin i'd walk away, good, clean cars can be had easily so don't bother with one that stinks.
Engines and gearboxes are very robust and the engines can sound tappetty / clattery on start up. This should go once it has warmed through.
Clutch slave cylinders can squeek, which is usually as sign that it is on its way out. The clutch itself is usually ok.
Rust really is you main killer, to be honest.
Cheers for that feedback, I'm going to have a look at an older one on Thursday and then try and work out where I go from there. There was one I had my eye on in Auto Trader, but that's now gone 
Also, the Sport model on a 2002 car, is the main difference the fact that it has a 6 speed box?
Also, the Sport model on a 2002 car, is the main difference the fact that it has a 6 speed box?
Don't confuse the Mk2.5 Sport Bilsteins with the Mk1 Beilsteins, they are completely different. The Mk1 Bilsteins generally cause a very stiff ride making it difficult to drive over bumpy B-roads whereas the Mk2.5 Sport is stiffer than the standard 1.8i but still rides well (and still feel a bit soft to me with a bit too much roll & pitch).
The Sport has the 6-speed 'box & Torsen LSD with closer gear ratios but a higher final drive, bigger brakes, additional chassis bracing including front suspension tower brace, heated leather seats, electric windows/mirrors/ariel, foglights and 16" alloys.
The Sport has the 6-speed 'box & Torsen LSD with closer gear ratios but a higher final drive, bigger brakes, additional chassis bracing including front suspension tower brace, heated leather seats, electric windows/mirrors/ariel, foglights and 16" alloys.
ApexJimi said:
Did all Mk2's come with a LSD?
What are the early Mk2's like? Are they any good?
Not entirely convinced that a convertible is for me, but I digress....
Early Mk2s are bloody good and are now very good value.What are the early Mk2's like? Are they any good?
Not entirely convinced that a convertible is for me, but I digress....
Just take a ride in one. They need to be set up properly though, to give the right feel.
Oh and the quickest accelerating one I believe is the 10th Anniversary Edition as it had the 6 speed box and lower final drive. It's not half a second quicker though I don't think.
Combover said:
ApexJimi said:
Oh and the quickest accelerating one I believe is the 10th Anniversary Edition as it had the 6 speed box and lower final drive. It's not half a second quicker though I don't think.
This is where I'm quoting my figures from which is why I'm a little confused I guess!Gassing Station | Mazda MX5/Roadster/Miata | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff