What ride Height

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Discussion

Munter

Original Poster:

31,326 posts

247 months

Friday 3rd April 2009
quotequote all
I'm thinking I need to increase the ride height of my car.

I had the local garage fit the Gaz kit from MX5parts a few months ago. And after I set the shocks settings correctly it's great handling.

However I cant get over the local speed bumps now without grounding out. Currently it's running 32cm (wheel center to to of wheelarch) all around.

Any suggestions for something a bit higher? Do I go for another 2cm? 5?

Originally it was on the 4x4 suspention frankly for road use I'd be happy to put it back there (or just a tad lower) if anybody knows what that was?

Cheers

matt uk

17,939 posts

206 months

Friday 3rd April 2009
quotequote all
After fitting the Gaz kit, Tiny at WiM set my ride height at 13" / 33cm front and 13.5" / 34.3cm rear. I'm getting on well with it. It's still a bit higher than some of the others I see about. But it does now look a lot better than the previous 4x4 settings it had when I purchased it!

When talking to Tony about ride height I explained that I wanted 'handling' and that 'ride height' would be a result of that - I've heard that plenty of others go for ride height first and accept the handling compromises this can bring - each to their own I guess.

My understanding is that optimal handling is achieved when the wishbones are parallel with the ground - sounds great hey, but please don't ask me anything more as I'm repeating what I was told by an expert and have zero knowledge to discuss this sort of thing in more detail!

Anyway, HTH

Munter

Original Poster:

31,326 posts

247 months

Friday 3rd April 2009
quotequote all
matt uk said:
After fitting the Gaz kit, Tiny at WiM set my ride height at 13" / 33cm front and 13.5" / 34.3cm rear. I'm getting on well with it. It's still a bit higher than some of the others I see about. But it does now look a lot better than the previous 4x4 settings it had when I purchased it!

When talking to Tony about ride height I explained that I wanted 'handling' and that 'ride height' would be a result of that - I've heard that plenty of others go for ride height first and accept the handling compromises this can bring - each to their own I guess.

My understanding is that optimal handling is achieved when the wishbones are parallel with the ground - sounds great hey, but please don't ask me anything more as I'm repeating what I was told by an expert and have zero knowledge to discuss this sort of thing in more detail!

Anyway, HTH
That does help a lot. If Tony is setting higher to get best handling I'm really happy. Because I need to go that way! I'll try out his heights this weekend unless it rains on me.... wink

dan1981

17,511 posts

205 months

Friday 3rd April 2009
quotequote all
My MK1 is running 32 at the rear and 31 at the front.

I don't know what springs are on it though. Its a very hard ride (I think) speeds bumps and other obsticles pose pretty big problems for me.

MX-5 Lazza

7,952 posts

225 months

Friday 3rd April 2009
quotequote all
Mine used to be very low and I do mean very. It looked great but it didn't only ground out on speed bumps but also on the road if it had a bit of a crown to it. It was very good at cleaning road kill off the road!
I have since raised it up to F32.5 R330 and it's spot on. Tony at WiM commented that the wishbones were in the perfect positions and that it allowed him to set the geometry perfectly. I can confirm that the handling is now great on the track where before it always felt just a little bit skitish.

Munter

Original Poster:

31,326 posts

247 months

Saturday 4th April 2009
quotequote all
Actually I wont be raising it. Because I can't. Physically I'm unable to move the washer up the screw thread. The tool supplied has however taken of a lot of the paint on the washer.

Now is the washer a single item? It looks like two. But I cant even get the lower one to back away from the top one. I can move them both up a few mm turing the top one though....

Gerrr.

MX-5 Lazza

7,952 posts

225 months

Saturday 4th April 2009
quotequote all
Sounds like you need a pair of C spanners to unlock them. When you re-tighten just pinch the lower one up, it doesn't need to be tight. Also put a bit of copper grease between them to stop them binding together.

Munter

Original Poster:

31,326 posts

247 months

Saturday 4th April 2009
quotequote all
MX-5 Lazza said:
Sounds like you need a pair of C spanners to unlock them. When you re-tighten just pinch the lower one up, it doesn't need to be tight. Also put a bit of copper grease between them to stop them binding together.
I only seem to have one.... I'll have a scratch around. Or otherwise a trip to www.topgearautomotive.co.uk who are based in town might be the lazy man answer. wink

MX-5 Lazza

7,952 posts

225 months

Saturday 4th April 2009
quotequote all
You usually only get one because you usually only need one as long as the locking nuts have been copper-greased and haven't been over-tightened ;-)

Bear in mind that the alignment will need to be redone if you change the ride height...

Edited by MX-5 Lazza on Saturday 4th April 23:47

vx220

2,698 posts

240 months

Sunday 5th April 2009
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i have gaz coil-overs on my frst, they have a grub screw in the adjuster that bites on the body of the damper to stop it moving. make sure this is undone before adjusting! and don't over-tighten it when you've finished, it's only nylon to avoid damaging anything...

Ab Shocks

1,686 posts

226 months

Tuesday 7th April 2009
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Munter said:
MX-5 Lazza said:
Sounds like you need a pair of C spanners to unlock them. When you re-tighten just pinch the lower one up, it doesn't need to be tight. Also put a bit of copper grease between them to stop them binding together.
I only seem to have one.... I'll have a scratch around. Or otherwise a trip to www.topgearautomotive.co.uk who are based in town might be the lazy man answer. wink
Are you jacking up the car before you try and move the adjuster?
Top Gear boys are great, I work with them on TVR and Lotus and they will help you if you get stuck.
I have been having a play recently to see what heights on my test mule work on general use without spoiling handling and between 12.5" to 13" on the front and 13" to 13.5" does not ruin handling but on the lower settings you may have to take bigger speed bumps at an angle

Munter

Original Poster:

31,326 posts

247 months

Wednesday 8th April 2009
quotequote all
Ab Shocks said:
Munter said:
MX-5 Lazza said:
Sounds like you need a pair of C spanners to unlock them. When you re-tighten just pinch the lower one up, it doesn't need to be tight. Also put a bit of copper grease between them to stop them binding together.
I only seem to have one.... I'll have a scratch around. Or otherwise a trip to www.topgearautomotive.co.uk who are based in town might be the lazy man answer. wink
Are you jacking up the car before you try and move the adjuster?
Top Gear boys are great, I work with them on TVR and Lotus and they will help you if you get stuck.
I have been having a play recently to see what heights on my test mule work on general use without spoiling handling and between 12.5" to 13" on the front and 13" to 13.5" does not ruin handling but on the lower settings you may have to take bigger speed bumps at an angle
Yes car was jacked up and wheel off for access. No grub screw then? (I've yet to get back under it and have another look). If theres no grub screw I suspect it's just the garage that fitted it have tightened them togeter so much I can't get them apart.

Munter

Original Poster:

31,326 posts

247 months

Friday 14th August 2009
quotequote all
Right well the guys at Top Gear have taken some of my earth pounds and done the job for me.

I can actually go over speed bumps again!

I even interupted their lunch to collect it and they didn't bh too much smile And it's definately worth being there early. Ummm TVR being started in an enclosed space.... lick