Service intervals / rattling
Discussion
I've been reliably informed that official Mk.1 service interval is 9k miles, although my mechanic strongly recommends 6k miles.
My car has started getting a bit rattly in the top end on occasion recently - it has been as quiet as a mouse since the HLAs were changed last July. I thought that it might need a service, but I see it's only done about 6000km since last July, which is only just over 4k miles!
Having said that, the oil on the dipstick looks pretty dark. Bearing in mind that earlier in its life it seemed to do without too many oil changes, and when I drive it it's either on a short local run or on a "balls out" thrash (and in both cases I exercise my right foot in the correct manner when warmed up) does it seem like it might be time for a service?
Strangely it was rattly as hell today when I was running on vapours looking for a petrol station. After refilling it was quiet again! I assume it must have been a coincidence as I'm not sure how the engine would know it was nearly running out of fuel!
As an aside, how optimistic are the fuel guages? Two tanks in a row I have had the needle below the "E" mark without running out. Oh for a fuel light!
My car has started getting a bit rattly in the top end on occasion recently - it has been as quiet as a mouse since the HLAs were changed last July. I thought that it might need a service, but I see it's only done about 6000km since last July, which is only just over 4k miles!
Having said that, the oil on the dipstick looks pretty dark. Bearing in mind that earlier in its life it seemed to do without too many oil changes, and when I drive it it's either on a short local run or on a "balls out" thrash (and in both cases I exercise my right foot in the correct manner when warmed up) does it seem like it might be time for a service?
Strangely it was rattly as hell today when I was running on vapours looking for a petrol station. After refilling it was quiet again! I assume it must have been a coincidence as I'm not sure how the engine would know it was nearly running out of fuel!
As an aside, how optimistic are the fuel guages? Two tanks in a row I have had the needle below the "E" mark without running out. Oh for a fuel light!
I can believe all of that. Mine was very tappy when I got it - I've only coveredd 8k km, and it needs doing again, oils gone black and the tapping is coming back.
As for the fuel - I've had mine up to 500kms on the odo, needle WAAY under the E mark... was crapping my pants but it was fine.
The fuel gauge is absolutely crap to be honest - once brimmed it goes off the scale at the other end and doesnt even drop below the full mark for 150kms.
Then in the next 150 it drops quickly to empty, where it then stays for a nother few hours, running fine...
I think I just have to get into the habit of filling up based on time/distance, and doing it more often.
As for the fuel - I've had mine up to 500kms on the odo, needle WAAY under the E mark... was crapping my pants but it was fine.
The fuel gauge is absolutely crap to be honest - once brimmed it goes off the scale at the other end and doesnt even drop below the full mark for 150kms.
Then in the next 150 it drops quickly to empty, where it then stays for a nother few hours, running fine...
I think I just have to get into the habit of filling up based on time/distance, and doing it more often.
I think it's Halfords 0w40 fully synth.
Whilst I would agree that there's no point in changing the oil when it is still fresh, given that my car works hard (either short journeys round town or a proper thrashing) and the oil looks pretty dark, I would rather change the oil too often than be thrashing the engine with old oil in it.
I tried the various Wynns hydraulic lifter stuff when I had really bad HLA rattle and TBH it didn't seem to make any difference
6k mile changes on my Saab turbo as manufacturer recommended (Mobil 1) and it is still going strong after 165k miles!
Whilst I would agree that there's no point in changing the oil when it is still fresh, given that my car works hard (either short journeys round town or a proper thrashing) and the oil looks pretty dark, I would rather change the oil too often than be thrashing the engine with old oil in it.
I tried the various Wynns hydraulic lifter stuff when I had really bad HLA rattle and TBH it didn't seem to make any difference
6k mile changes on my Saab turbo as manufacturer recommended (Mobil 1) and it is still going strong after 165k miles!
Funny because when it was released I remember tests showing that Mobil 1 stayed within grade for IIRC 20k+ miles (obviously subject to being in a decent engine etc)
Try a non Halfords stuff.
Many of us found it 'disappears' whilst other makes don't so I suspect it isn't as good as main stream makes.
Try a non Halfords stuff.
Many of us found it 'disappears' whilst other makes don't so I suspect it isn't as good as main stream makes.
Well nobody ever killed an engine by changing the oil too often I'll stick to 6k mile changes on my Saab turbo, it's an old engine and it's in the service schedule - plus it worked for that American chap who did 1 million miles in a c900
Didn't think there was much to choose between the fully synths - when I was trying to find an oil/grade/type that was "good" for MX5 HLA rattle everybody had a different recommendation - different grades, different brands, some swore semi synth was better than fully synth. I was lead to believe the Halfords stuff was OK, but maybe I'll try Mobil 1 on the next change.
Didn't think there was much to choose between the fully synths - when I was trying to find an oil/grade/type that was "good" for MX5 HLA rattle everybody had a different recommendation - different grades, different brands, some swore semi synth was better than fully synth. I was lead to believe the Halfords stuff was OK, but maybe I'll try Mobil 1 on the next change.
NiceCupOfTea said:
Well nobody ever killed an engine by changing the oil too often
Didn't think there was much to choose between the fully synths
Some would argue to think of the children / fluffy bunnies.Didn't think there was much to choose between the fully synths
OMG - say that to Opie - I dare you ! :lol: There is a MASSIVE difference, in fact if you read up on it, its a license to print money.
Don't worry about the oil going black, it's supposed to do that. The better oils have better detergents and keep the engine itself cleaner by removing the deposits and keeping them in suspension while retaining their viscosity so while the oil might look dirty it will still be keeping the engine clean and protected. As Only said, a quality oil like Mobil1 will last a lot longer than the standard MX5 service intervals.
I use Mobil1 and stick to 9k oil changes unless I've done a few track-days in which case I will change it a bit earlier. Not sure I need to change it early now though as I now have an oil-cooler so the oil isn't really worked that much harder than a normal road car.
I use Mobil1 and stick to 9k oil changes unless I've done a few track-days in which case I will change it a bit earlier. Not sure I need to change it early now though as I now have an oil-cooler so the oil isn't really worked that much harder than a normal road car.
Legend83 said:
Mines tappy and I changed the oil 2 weeks ago with some Fuchs fully synthetic...
...but it is pretty cold over night...
Hmm, spotted the Fuchs stuff a while back - looks like pretty good vfm in the 5L bottles. Any good? What weight did you use btw? I have found that the tappety HLA noise arrives quite a bit earlier with 0w Mobil 1 than 5w......but it is pretty cold over night...
bluetone said:
Legend83 said:
Mines tappy and I changed the oil 2 weeks ago with some Fuchs fully synthetic...
...but it is pretty cold over night...
Hmm, spotted the Fuchs stuff a while back - looks like pretty good vfm in the 5L bottles. Any good? What weight did you use btw? I have found that the tappety HLA noise arrives quite a bit earlier with 0w Mobil 1 than 5w......but it is pretty cold over night...
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