Mk1 Mx5/Eunos which one to go for?
Discussion
Hello,
Well I know from here lots of people rave about them, and I'm keen to get one in the up and coming few months after I've got a job and all that sorted... I dont need a car, but I want one, and these are dangerously cheap...
So, 1.6 or 1.8 and what is the difference between the imported Eunos and the UK Mx5's?
Do they all have LSD's also? My last car was a Mk1 golf gti which I regret selling, but I had to, I like low power light weight big fun cars and this fits the bill, in an ideal world I'd get an elise though!
Thanks in advance!
Well I know from here lots of people rave about them, and I'm keen to get one in the up and coming few months after I've got a job and all that sorted... I dont need a car, but I want one, and these are dangerously cheap...
So, 1.6 or 1.8 and what is the difference between the imported Eunos and the UK Mx5's?
Do they all have LSD's also? My last car was a Mk1 golf gti which I regret selling, but I had to, I like low power light weight big fun cars and this fits the bill, in an ideal world I'd get an elise though!
Thanks in advance!
Edited by AlecG on Thursday 19th February 18:01
Which one you go for is a matter of personal choice really. All mine were Eunos Roadsters (the one sold to the Japanese market). The were all built on the same production lines and, aside from minor spec/trim differences, all markets around the world got the same car whether it was badged MX-5, Roadster, Miata, etc.
You've got a choice of two engine sizes, 1.6 & 1.8. They look very similar so check the V5 or VIN plate. 1.6 cars will begin NA6C, 1.8 cars begin with NA8C. Some UK 1.6 cars had as little as 90bhp but other (identical) cars from a different production year had a fair bit more. The Japanese cars were never fitted with the lower powered variant of the 1.6.
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. There are other features like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for clearing the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (like our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork is generally in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads. The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't mean they haven't been serviced. If the car's done over 100,000kms, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a kilometre figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Other common areas where problems can occur include:
Electric windows (prone to slowing or sticking)
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot (often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished)
Hood damage - the area above the windows can develop cracks if the hood is old.
Air con - check that the revs rise when it's switched on and that the resulting air is nice and cold. Earlier cars were filled with R12 - not sure how easy this will be to re-fill now. Later cars had R134a which is still in use today.
Bodywork - check for rust around the wheel arches/sills. Check panel gaps and look for signs of respray work.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the v-special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had bucket seats and Bilstein suspension. The S-Special is a decent package that offers better suspension and a reasonable level of equipment.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some handbuilt Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
EDIT: You'll probably pay more insurance for an import but ringing around for quotes should reduce this to a negligible amount.
You've got a choice of two engine sizes, 1.6 & 1.8. They look very similar so check the V5 or VIN plate. 1.6 cars will begin NA6C, 1.8 cars begin with NA8C. Some UK 1.6 cars had as little as 90bhp but other (identical) cars from a different production year had a fair bit more. The Japanese cars were never fitted with the lower powered variant of the 1.6.
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. There are other features like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for clearing the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (like our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork is generally in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads. The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't mean they haven't been serviced. If the car's done over 100,000kms, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a kilometre figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Other common areas where problems can occur include:
Electric windows (prone to slowing or sticking)
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot (often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished)
Hood damage - the area above the windows can develop cracks if the hood is old.
Air con - check that the revs rise when it's switched on and that the resulting air is nice and cold. Earlier cars were filled with R12 - not sure how easy this will be to re-fill now. Later cars had R134a which is still in use today.
Bodywork - check for rust around the wheel arches/sills. Check panel gaps and look for signs of respray work.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the v-special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had bucket seats and Bilstein suspension. The S-Special is a decent package that offers better suspension and a reasonable level of equipment.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some handbuilt Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
EDIT: You'll probably pay more insurance for an import but ringing around for quotes should reduce this to a negligible amount.
Edited by Risotto on Thursday 19th February 18:43
I looked for one for ages, and can I add the following?
Many of the cheap, early model MX-5s were suffering surface rust in most places. The imports seemed to have less rust on them, and in my distant memory I remember reading that many imports have less rust due to less salt on the roads in Japan...
Certainly, my '93 Eunos has almost no rust at all (imported '05), just a little surface rust inside the boot. (In spite of a new roof, with new rail, it still leaks.) It was a cheap one too.
In general the imports are far better equipped, Air con, Electric mirrors and windows are fitted to many.
Many of the cheap, early model MX-5s were suffering surface rust in most places. The imports seemed to have less rust on them, and in my distant memory I remember reading that many imports have less rust due to less salt on the roads in Japan...
Certainly, my '93 Eunos has almost no rust at all (imported '05), just a little surface rust inside the boot. (In spite of a new roof, with new rail, it still leaks.) It was a cheap one too.
In general the imports are far better equipped, Air con, Electric mirrors and windows are fitted to many.
1.6 revvier, 1.8 a bit quicker. Everything's beefed up a bit on the 1.8 meaning easier to upgrade to a turbo.
JDM cars have much better spec (air con, electric windows/mirrors, etc.). All Jap 1.8s have a torsen LSD which doesn't go off unlike the viscous one. Also, they have useful limited editions (S-Spec, V-Spec, RS-Spec, S-Ltd). UK cars are usually rustier, lower spec, and the special editions are usually just different colours.
Early 1.6s can suffer from a crank pulley problem. Later 1.6s are lower powered so after 94 or so go for the 1.8. Buy on condition, not miles. Make sure it's been serviced yearly (rather than on miles if it is low mileage) and watch out for rust on the sills.
Alignment, tyres, and tyre pressures make a world of difference in how the car drives.
For me it would be a mid 90s JDM 1.8 every time (in fact that's what I bought
)
JDM cars have much better spec (air con, electric windows/mirrors, etc.). All Jap 1.8s have a torsen LSD which doesn't go off unlike the viscous one. Also, they have useful limited editions (S-Spec, V-Spec, RS-Spec, S-Ltd). UK cars are usually rustier, lower spec, and the special editions are usually just different colours.
Early 1.6s can suffer from a crank pulley problem. Later 1.6s are lower powered so after 94 or so go for the 1.8. Buy on condition, not miles. Make sure it's been serviced yearly (rather than on miles if it is low mileage) and watch out for rust on the sills.
Alignment, tyres, and tyre pressures make a world of difference in how the car drives.
For me it would be a mid 90s JDM 1.8 every time (in fact that's what I bought
)I imported a '93 1.6 Eunos directly from Japan in 1997. As others have said, the car had a much better spec than official UK car's and was considerably cheaper. We had to have a rear fog light fitted for the MOT and spent a little extra to ensure it was fitted identically to UK models. Other than servicing and replacing tyres (Jap tyres were terrible), the only issue we had was an alternator failure. In our case, the part required was different to official UK spec however, the auto electrician sourced the appropriate part in two day's.
AlecG said:
thanks 
I had a look through the "show us your mx5" thread, and people have got them under £1k, how/where?! Haha! What should I set aside for a decent one obviously the more the more options, but say a ball park figure of £1500 should this be sufficient?
Keep an eye on the classifieds on here,TVT and Ebay bargain ones do crop up from time to time it all depends how quickly you want one I had a look through the "show us your mx5" thread, and people have got them under £1k, how/where?! Haha! What should I set aside for a decent one obviously the more the more options, but say a ball park figure of £1500 should this be sufficient?
AlecG said:
thanks
I had a look through the "show us your mx5" thread, and people have got them under £1k, how/where?! Haha! What should I set aside for a decent one obviously the more the more options, but say a ball park figure of £1500 should this be sufficient?
I kept looking for ages, most of the 1k cars were pretty poor. Then, heading from Manchester to Sheffield, I spotted one at the side of the road. (at the end of snake pass no less!)I had a look through the "show us your mx5" thread, and people have got them under £1k, how/where?! Haha! What should I set aside for a decent one obviously the more the more options, but say a ball park figure of £1500 should this be sufficient?
Normally, I would drive straight past parking bay cars, but I thought I would just take a look over it. Had some spraying, and there was obvious filler on the boot (looked like filler not well sanded before painting, to cover spoiler holes) but the panels were all straight, and the filler was minimal. Called the mobile number, and it turned out to be outside his house. He came out, and we went for a drive. Engine was sweet as a nut, and it drove well. Even the Air con was ice cold.
Suspension/dampers were tired, but as I planned to change them it didn't matter. Roof was disintegrating, but was still secure.
We shook at £1225. Just be patient. And prepared to look for a while. I kept scanning the classifieds for 10 months or so before I stumbled across this one by chance...
To be fair though, it hasn't been less than £1500. I replaced the tires (which were 165/60 Yokohama ICEstorms, I kid you not! Now 195/50 Toyo.) £200. Roll cage and P5, £1400. New roof, £260. MOT, which included a new front window not covered by insurance as I am (or was) 3rd Party, £330. Kicking myself for that one. Approx £3200 in total.
If I was looking for a daily driver rather than a track car, I would not have needed to spend most of the above. Even the old, slightly dead roof did not leak until I reached over 80mph in torrential rain.
Evo managed to find a good one for less than 1k which they say looks like it was an old trackday car, but seems in good health. I am enjoying that feature
Edited by Dimski on Thursday 19th February 21:05
Mine was mega cheap, and is an early 1.6 JDM car. Only rust is from a poor accident repair on the rear quarter, everywhere else seems really fresh, arches etc. Windows have both packed up, pass side is stuck up, drivers side is movable but only by hand (
), I'm sure its an easy fix and will get round to it soon. A few seconds tapping on start up is nothing to worry about, as long as it disappears almost straight away, but an oil flush and change can clear this up. People seem to think the viscous diffs are largely worthless, but mine still seems to lock up really well. I prefer the action of the viscous diff compared to the mechanical LSD I had on my old BMW as it seems far less aggressive and just stops you spinning the inside wheel when powering out of any tight corners rather than trying to kick the rear out on every roundabout. I junked the A/C because it was broken, and I didn't want the excess weight anyway, best tip is to buy on condition, as opposed to age or mileage. Don't expect a stacked history file with a Jap one either, unless you can prove its been done its worth doing the cambelt and waterpump as well as putting some nice golden oil in there. Enjoy it!
), I'm sure its an easy fix and will get round to it soon. A few seconds tapping on start up is nothing to worry about, as long as it disappears almost straight away, but an oil flush and change can clear this up. People seem to think the viscous diffs are largely worthless, but mine still seems to lock up really well. I prefer the action of the viscous diff compared to the mechanical LSD I had on my old BMW as it seems far less aggressive and just stops you spinning the inside wheel when powering out of any tight corners rather than trying to kick the rear out on every roundabout. I junked the A/C because it was broken, and I didn't want the excess weight anyway, best tip is to buy on condition, as opposed to age or mileage. Don't expect a stacked history file with a Jap one either, unless you can prove its been done its worth doing the cambelt and waterpump as well as putting some nice golden oil in there. Enjoy it!I went for a 96 UK car, a 1.8i MX5. Spec is low (no air con, no PAS, no electric windows), but seeing as I use mine mainly on track this didn't worry me. The sills had obviously rusted on mine and had been re-welded to a good standard. Look closely and you can tell the work has been done, but again, seeing as mines a track day car, cosmetics were quite low down my list of priorities so long as the mechanicals are rock-solid.
Like others, I was was scanning the ads for a while and then found mine locally by chance.
Basically, 1.6 or 1.8 is up to you - but buy on condition based on your requirements.
Whatever you buy, get some decent tyres on and then visit WiM to sort the geometry out.
Like others, I was was scanning the ads for a while and then found mine locally by chance.
Basically, 1.6 or 1.8 is up to you - but buy on condition based on your requirements.
Whatever you buy, get some decent tyres on and then visit WiM to sort the geometry out.
i got a 92 1.6 eunos with 82k miles 2 weeks ago. It has 4 good tyres, brand new hood, mot till july, a sytle roll bar and no rust.
there are issues with the laquer on 3 wings, but for £950 i reckon i did ok. mechanically everything seems fine- survived the 200 mile journey home from picking it up. it was tappety but i took a risk, changed to fully snyth oil and the problem has gone.
yet to get the hood down so i guess things will only get better...
there are issues with the laquer on 3 wings, but for £950 i reckon i did ok. mechanically everything seems fine- survived the 200 mile journey home from picking it up. it was tappety but i took a risk, changed to fully snyth oil and the problem has gone.
yet to get the hood down so i guess things will only get better...
Chris71 said:
Apologies if anyone else has mentioned this (didn't see) but:
If you go for a UK 1.6 make sure you do your homework. I seem to remember a batch of them had a very low power engine compared to the Eunos (something like 80hp plays 114hp IIRC?)
The 114bhp 1.6 was replaced in '93 with a 130bhp 1.8. If you go for a UK 1.6 make sure you do your homework. I seem to remember a batch of them had a very low power engine compared to the Eunos (something like 80hp plays 114hp IIRC?) An 88bhp 1.6 was reintroduced in 93/94 as a cheap insurance option.
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