Really fancy one of these...
Discussion
I really fancy one of these as a second car for weekend/nice weather fun!
Are they as cheap to run as people seem to suggest?
How much can I get away with paying for one in decent nick? I'd like a reasonable one to start with that isn't covered in rust and falling to pieces (this applies to the engine too
) so is, say, £1500 enough?
Anything to look out for when buying?
I'm not after luxury or toys so I don't care if they do or don't have electric windows, etc, just lightweight fun
(I see forced induction kits exist, hehe)
Are they as cheap to run as people seem to suggest?
How much can I get away with paying for one in decent nick? I'd like a reasonable one to start with that isn't covered in rust and falling to pieces (this applies to the engine too
) so is, say, £1500 enough?Anything to look out for when buying?
I'm not after luxury or toys so I don't care if they do or don't have electric windows, etc, just lightweight fun
(I see forced induction kits exist, hehe)hcanning said:
I really fancy one of these as a second car for weekend/nice weather fun!
Are they as cheap to run as people seem to suggest?
I had a Mk2, which was my first MX-5. Aside from servicing (dirt cheap) the only thing it needed, was rear tyres - that was my fault.Are they as cheap to run as people seem to suggest?
I then bought a Mk1, because it was an older car, the exhaust had gone, so I replaced that. The brakes also needed doing and the bodywork tarting up a bit.
Then I bought my Mk2.5 which, so far, has proved to be the most expensive (costs are in my profile). I reckon that this isn't really typical and some of the costs are mandatory anyway.
Cheap as chips to run.
hcanning said:
How much can I get away with paying for one in decent nick? I'd like a reasonable one to start with that isn't covered in rust and falling to pieces (this applies to the engine too ) so is, say, £1500 enough?
I'd suggest nearer £2000. They are available for £1500, but will need work (usually only to the body). ) so is, say, £1500 enough?hcanning said:
Anything to look out for when buying?
MX-5s have known weak ponts or areas of issue:- Sills are succeptable to rust - this is quite a common problem.
- Clutch slave cylinders tend to give out, usually way before the clutch itself does.
- Hoods can tear. This is usually because they're put up and down when cold. If they're vinyl, that tends to crack, so don't be suprised to get a wet arse/knee/whatever, when driving along.
- Make sure the cambelt has been changed at 60,000 miles or you WILL have to buy a new engine.
- All MX-5s (except the Mk3 I believe) sound horribly tapety on start up. This is not unusual, so don't be put off if when started, the thing sits there ticking for a while. This can happen if the car is not used regularly.
- Rear wheel arches tend to rust.
- Exhausts are succeptable to corrosion.
- Plastic rear windows can turn quite opaque over time.
- Alignment goes out of the window after a few years, so get this done.
hcanning said:
I'm not after luxury or toys so I don't care if they do or don't have electric windows, etc, just lightweight fun (I see forced induction kits exist, hehe)
If you get a Mk1 UK car, luxury won't be an issue. The only issues I had with my old Mk1 was the lack of PAS, ABS (coming from an ABS equipped 5, I often locked up - once whilst tear-arsing into Old Hall at Oulton Park (I see forced induction kits exist, hehe)
) and the last thing was a lack of LSD.The LSD really does make the car much more usable and vastly improves traction out of tight corners.
I'd go for the 1.8 too as it simply has more grunt than the 1.6.
Hope this Helps.
for mk1's, the engine is non-interference so a broken cambelt will not mean a new engine. also, not all tap on start-up (mine doesn't anyway! 
)
agree on the other weak points tho, rust on sills esp in front of rear wheels. hoods tend to shrink rather than tear but yes they can give you a wet leg. rear calipers can sometimes get pretty sticky too.
if you're lucky you might get one for 1500 but budget around 2000 for a half decent one, esp with summer coming up now. the good thing is that pretty much everything can be done yourself - brakes, suspension, engine work, hood etc it's all very simple.
)agree on the other weak points tho, rust on sills esp in front of rear wheels. hoods tend to shrink rather than tear but yes they can give you a wet leg. rear calipers can sometimes get pretty sticky too.
if you're lucky you might get one for 1500 but budget around 2000 for a half decent one, esp with summer coming up now. the good thing is that pretty much everything can be done yourself - brakes, suspension, engine work, hood etc it's all very simple.
Edited by skinny on Sunday 4th May 17:38
Agree with Skinny. A broken cam-belt is a pain in the @rse but won't damage the engine.
Mk2 onwards have solid lifters so there shouldn't be HLA clatter. Mk2.5 have VVT which can rattle on start-up which sounds similar to HLA clatter.
When I had a Mk1 I wanted to fit an aftermarket exhaust but couldn't justify it while the original exhaust was in good nick. Every time I washed the car I "accidentally" sprayed water up the exhaust pipe but the thing just wouldn't rot! I sold the car after over 7 years and 85,000 miles with a perfect exhaust which was probably spotless inside as well as out
It's something to look out for though.
I'd say the most important areas to check are the sills, especially the rear end of the sills and the rear arches.
Mk2 onwards have solid lifters so there shouldn't be HLA clatter. Mk2.5 have VVT which can rattle on start-up which sounds similar to HLA clatter.
When I had a Mk1 I wanted to fit an aftermarket exhaust but couldn't justify it while the original exhaust was in good nick. Every time I washed the car I "accidentally" sprayed water up the exhaust pipe but the thing just wouldn't rot! I sold the car after over 7 years and 85,000 miles with a perfect exhaust which was probably spotless inside as well as out
It's something to look out for though.
I'd say the most important areas to check are the sills, especially the rear end of the sills and the rear arches.
Hi I have had my mk1 for a year, Import 'S' Ltd it is and I have had the following done, clutch wore out, slave cylinder seized up, new tyres, brakes, new roof soon, new alloys.
My mk1 has PAS but no abs, it is bit rattly on start up due to the HLA'S but overall my car is fab. The seatbelt stalks are wired to the dash for reminding you to belt up and the interior is red. They are cheap to run, my insurance is £313 for me fully comp with Lifesure Ltd. I have spent a lot of money and there is more to be spent as a lot of niggly little things were missing from it. But I love the car and would happily stick to an mx5 for rest of my life. My sill plates are showing tiny signs of rust at the edges but will get it sorted soon. Get a mk1 they are supposedly built better.
My mk1 has PAS but no abs, it is bit rattly on start up due to the HLA'S but overall my car is fab. The seatbelt stalks are wired to the dash for reminding you to belt up and the interior is red. They are cheap to run, my insurance is £313 for me fully comp with Lifesure Ltd. I have spent a lot of money and there is more to be spent as a lot of niggly little things were missing from it. But I love the car and would happily stick to an mx5 for rest of my life. My sill plates are showing tiny signs of rust at the edges but will get it sorted soon. Get a mk1 they are supposedly built better.
Combover said:
trace1967 said:
Get a mk1 they are supposedly built better.
Not so. I've had a Mk1, Mk2 and Mk2.5 and have to say, they all felt as flismy as each other! 
I'm pretty new to 5's so i'll give you my experience. Firstly mine is only an extra toy so I wanted to buy one as cheaply as possible, ( I should say i like to tinker so don't mind a little bit of work). I firstly bought a 1995 uk car which i was aware had been neglected and needed a fair bit of work but it was cheap. The car turned out to be a 90bhp model (not recommended) and ended up being far more work than i thought, it was VERY rusty and needed a lot of welding, this along with no PAS (yes you do miss it) made me sell it on after just a few weeks.
I then bought a 1992 Eunos v-spec which has lots of extras and NO rust at all. I do need to do a few jobs, it has very very low rock hard suspension which i want to change and a few cosmetic issues, but it's a far better car than the first one. I looked at a few and would reccommend you buy an import as they are far better equipped and don't rust like uk cars tend to. some say you can't insure them but I didn't have any problems although it was around £40 more than the uk car.
Prices are starting to go up as the better weather comes in so don't delay, my eunos cost me £1300 with a new MOT & tax so there are bargains to be had. I would think £1500 would get you a good car and they are very easy to work on so don't worry if you find a car that maybe needs brakes or something.
Hope this helps, Davy.
I then bought a 1992 Eunos v-spec which has lots of extras and NO rust at all. I do need to do a few jobs, it has very very low rock hard suspension which i want to change and a few cosmetic issues, but it's a far better car than the first one. I looked at a few and would reccommend you buy an import as they are far better equipped and don't rust like uk cars tend to. some say you can't insure them but I didn't have any problems although it was around £40 more than the uk car.
Prices are starting to go up as the better weather comes in so don't delay, my eunos cost me £1300 with a new MOT & tax so there are bargains to be had. I would think £1500 would get you a good car and they are very easy to work on so don't worry if you find a car that maybe needs brakes or something.
Hope this helps, Davy.
hcanning said:
Cheers for the info guys
Is there a "hard and fast" rule as to finding out whether a 1.6i would be 90 or 100/110 bhp?
i don't think the imports were ever detuned? and the UK cars i think the mk1 post 94 (possibly 93) will be detuned too, basically at the time that the 1.8 came out as there wasn't enough performance differential between that and the 116bhp 1.6!Is there a "hard and fast" rule as to finding out whether a 1.6i would be 90 or 100/110 bhp?
I don't think it was a performance differential thing, the low-power 1.6 was introduced as a cheaper insurance option (this was at the time when GTIs were king and insurance went through the roof).
If it's a 94 or earlier it will be 114bhp regardless of market.
In 94 (possibly late 93) the 1.8 was introduced in all markets.
In 95 the 88bhp 1.6 was introduced in certain European markets.
So if it's 95 or later 1.6 then it's an 88bhp car and will also be a UK spec car (unless it's LHD).
If it's a 94 or earlier it will be 114bhp regardless of market.
In 94 (possibly late 93) the 1.8 was introduced in all markets.
In 95 the 88bhp 1.6 was introduced in certain European markets.
So if it's 95 or later 1.6 then it's an 88bhp car and will also be a UK spec car (unless it's LHD).
MX-5 Lazza said:
Yes, a 1.6 88bhp car will be in a much lower insurance group than a 1.8 130bhp car
i meant difference between the early and late 1.6's - the 1.8 is obviously going to be more than either 
they detuned the 1.6 cos insurance was too expensive with 116bhp!? nah i still reckon it was for performance differentiation
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