buying an mx-5
Discussion
I already own an e39 530d sport, which is a bit of a barge, I really need a weekend toy I am thinking of an mx-5.
I have upto £3k to spend on a *hopefully* decent one! Do we have a buyers guide in this section of what to look for etc?
Which models am I looking at for my budget, I obviously want the 1.8 engine.
I have upto £3k to spend on a *hopefully* decent one! Do we have a buyers guide in this section of what to look for etc?
Which models am I looking at for my budget, I obviously want the 1.8 engine.
Your budget dictates a Mk1 (reckoned by many to be the best MX-5 anyway) and if you've got your mind set on a 1.8 then your next decision is whether to go for an import or a UK car. Which one you go for is a matter of personal choice really. I've always had Eunos Roadsters (the one sold to the Japanese market). The were all built on the same production lines and, aside from minor spec/trim differences, all markets around the world got the same car whether it was badged MX-5, Roadster, Miata, etc.
The 1.6 & 1.8 look very similar so check the V5 or VIN plate. 1.6 cars will begin NA6C, 1.8 cars begin with NA8C.
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. There are other features common on imports like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for clearing the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (like our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork is generally in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads. The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't mean they haven't been serviced. If the car's done over 100,000kms, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a kilometre figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Other common areas where problems can occur include:
Electric windows (prone to slowing or sticking)
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot (often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished)
Hood damage - the area above the windows can develop cracks if the hood is old.
Air con - check that the revs rise when it's switched on and that the resulting air is nice and cold. Earlier cars were filled with R12 and cannot be easily regassed. Later cars had R134a which is still in use today.
Bodywork - check for rust around the wheel arches. Check panel gaps and look for signs of respray work.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the v-special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had bucket seats and Bilstein suspension. The S-Special is a decent package that offers better suspension and a reasonable level of equipment.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some handbuilt Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
The 1.6 & 1.8 look very similar so check the V5 or VIN plate. 1.6 cars will begin NA6C, 1.8 cars begin with NA8C.
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had. There are other features common on imports like air con (which, while hardly essential, is handy for clearing the screen in winter).
Japanese shaken tests (like our MOTs) mean that general roadworthiness standards are often better than cars from the UK. Additionally, the bodywork is generally in better condition as the Japanese don't salt their roads. The average annual mileage seems lower in Japan too. While evidence of servicing rarely accompanies the cars on their journey over here, it doesn't mean they haven't been serviced. If the car's done over 100,000kms, check that there is a silver sticker at the front of the cam cover with a kilometre figure on it - this tells you when the cambelt was changed.
Other common areas where problems can occur include:
Electric windows (prone to slowing or sticking)
Noisy tappets - for a few minutes after start up this is fine, if it continues, investigate further.
Dampness in the boot (often because the plastic rail that the base of the hood sits in has perished)
Hood damage - the area above the windows can develop cracks if the hood is old.
Air con - check that the revs rise when it's switched on and that the resulting air is nice and cold. Earlier cars were filled with R12 and cannot be easily regassed. Later cars had R134a which is still in use today.
Bodywork - check for rust around the wheel arches. Check panel gaps and look for signs of respray work.
Usually the above are neither difficult nor expensive to rectify.
There were plenty of Japanese special editions to chose from - some, like the v-special had leather & wood if you like that sort of thing, others like the RS-Ltd had bucket seats and Bilstein suspension. The S-Special is a decent package that offers better suspension and a reasonable level of equipment.
I'm not trying to put you off UK cars, I just think that because of the excellent reliability of the MX-5, the main advantage of UK cars (service history) isn't as vital as it would be if we were talking about some handbuilt Italian V12.
Personally I'd get a post 1995 1.8 Eunos Roadster but whichever model you go for, you'll get a reliable, simple to maintain, fun, cheap, great handling car!
Edited by Risotto on Sunday 2nd March 11:31
jamoor said:
Kinky said:
We have some 5 owners in the good old county of the white rose.
I'm sure there's 1 or 2 that would be happy to chat you you about it.
K
I'm sure there's 1 or 2 that would be happy to chat you you about it.
K
What do you guys think of the SE model, (BRG,tan leather etc)
Risotto said:
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had.
Not quite true. The UK 1.8iS and 1.8 Sport models have the Torsen diff.If you want the complete package, the car should ideally have this diff. I think it is the key to unlocking the brilliance of the chassis.
Combover said:
Risotto said:
I haven't owned one for a while now but from memory the Japanese 1.8 models from 1995 onwards came with a Torsen LSD etc which UK cars never had.
Not quite true. The UK 1.8iS and 1.8 Sport models have the Torsen diff.If you want the complete package, the car should ideally have this diff. I think it is the key to unlocking the brilliance of the chassis.
That's part of the problem. Whenever they produced a bunch of cars in the same colour....hey presto, you have the makings of a limited edition!
Some are proper limited editions though. The likes of the 10th Anniversary Edition etc are.
I'd assume the SE has the Torsen diff, although i'm not certain.
It really is the icing on the cake, maybe even worth retro-fitting one if the car you get doesn't have one.
ETA: As far as I can tell, the SE was an iS with bits added on, so I think it does have the Torsen diff.
Some are proper limited editions though. The likes of the 10th Anniversary Edition etc are.
I'd assume the SE has the Torsen diff, although i'm not certain.
It really is the icing on the cake, maybe even worth retro-fitting one if the car you get doesn't have one.
ETA: As far as I can tell, the SE was an iS with bits added on, so I think it does have the Torsen diff.
Edited by Combover on Sunday 2nd March 20:54
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