Gearbox worries??
Discussion
I have a 1998 mk2 1.6 Eunos imported last April and owned by me since then. Over that period selection of second gear in particular has become very notchy. This appears worse when the car is cold. Once warm there can be occasions when there is no problem engaging 2nd gear. I had the service 6 months ago and when i got the car back the problem seemed to be sorted which makes me this there is some adjustment to be made somewhere? The garage i had it serviced have since fone out of business so cannot go back there.
I am none the wiser to what the problem is and am concerned that it could be a gearbox problem which i want to get sorted. Any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
James
I am none the wiser to what the problem is and am concerned that it could be a gearbox problem which i want to get sorted. Any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
James
James,
Going into 2nd from 1st has always been 'notchy' for me on the cold box. Once warmed up all is OK. Other than that I've never had a problem, and that's been a year now.
Although, that said, I think the release bearing is on it's way out, as depressing the clutch slightly produces the most horrendous squeals, again until it's warmed up.
K
Going into 2nd from 1st has always been 'notchy' for me on the cold box. Once warmed up all is OK. Other than that I've never had a problem, and that's been a year now.
Although, that said, I think the release bearing is on it's way out, as depressing the clutch slightly produces the most horrendous squeals, again until it's warmed up.
K
Yeah. I've just read Rons manual and it basically says.
1)Make sure car is level and you can get underneath safely.
2)Remove filler bolt.
3)Remove drain bolt.
(Do these in this order to make sure you can fill with new oil later, before draining old oil)
4)Once oil is drained, re-fit drain bolt.
5)Fill with 2 liters of the correct gearbox oil until it's level with the filler hole.
6)Allow excess to drain out (10 mins).
7)Re-fit filler bolt.
1)Make sure car is level and you can get underneath safely.
2)Remove filler bolt.
3)Remove drain bolt.
(Do these in this order to make sure you can fill with new oil later, before draining old oil)
4)Once oil is drained, re-fit drain bolt.
5)Fill with 2 liters of the correct gearbox oil until it's level with the filler hole.
6)Allow excess to drain out (10 mins).
7)Re-fit filler bolt.
Munter said:
Yeah. I've just read Rons manual and it basically says.
1)Make sure car is level and you can get underneath safely.
2)Remove filler bolt.
3)Remove drain bolt.
(Do these in this order to make sure you can fill with new oil later, before draining old oil)
4)Once oil is drained, re-fit drain bolt.
5)Fill with 2 liters of the correct gearbox oil until it's level with the filler hole.
6)Allow excess to drain out (10 mins).
7)Re-fit filler bolt.
Funny, just been reading that chapter today.1)Make sure car is level and you can get underneath safely.
2)Remove filler bolt.
3)Remove drain bolt.
(Do these in this order to make sure you can fill with new oil later, before draining old oil)
4)Once oil is drained, re-fit drain bolt.
5)Fill with 2 liters of the correct gearbox oil until it's level with the filler hole.
6)Allow excess to drain out (10 mins).
7)Re-fit filler bolt.
Reckons these boxes respond well to synthetic oil, and should make it less notchy.
Replacing the old gear-oil (and dif-oil) for Redline Synthetic in my old Mk1 and my current car improved the gear-change no-end and also made the gearbox quieter (you don't notice how noisy it is until you make it quieter).
My Mk1 had a very notchy gear-change 1st to 2nd and worse 2nd to 1st, so bad that sometimes I gave up and pulled away in 2nd or went 1st to 3rd. Replacing with Redline synthetic cured this 90%.
If the car has done reasonable miles/is a few years old there is a very good chance that the lower shift-boot is torn and quite possibly the upper boot too. Replacing these (and the nylon cap & turret oil while you are in there, any oil will do - it doesn't swap juices with the gearbox) will also make a big improvement to the gear-change.
My Mk1 had a very notchy gear-change 1st to 2nd and worse 2nd to 1st, so bad that sometimes I gave up and pulled away in 2nd or went 1st to 3rd. Replacing with Redline synthetic cured this 90%.
If the car has done reasonable miles/is a few years old there is a very good chance that the lower shift-boot is torn and quite possibly the upper boot too. Replacing these (and the nylon cap & turret oil while you are in there, any oil will do - it doesn't swap juices with the gearbox) will also make a big improvement to the gear-change.
That sounds exactly the same symptoms as mine so thats the first step for me then i think will give those a go. Is there a workshop manual available for the mk2 car or is it a case of most of the mk1 stuff is the same/similar? I looked for a Haynes manual and there didnt seem to be one available? In an earlier reply there was talk of a manual which one is it please?
Cheers for all your help guys, much appreciated!
Cheers for all your help guys, much appreciated!
http://www.veloce.co.uk/shop/products/productDetai...
This is the manual I have. Not sure if anyone has ever done a MK2 manual.
This is the manual I have. Not sure if anyone has ever done a MK2 manual.
I'm sorry to be a pain again but im going out to pick up the gearbox oil tomoro if possible with the intention of changing it in the afternoon. With regards the turret oil, how is that accessed, via the cockpit or elsewhere? How much gear/diff oil is required i have searched online but struggled to find any figures? Cheers guys
I think it's 2 litres for the gearbox and one for the dif.
Use any old oil (cheap engine oil is good) in the turret - I think it takes 90cc.
Good instructions on Miata.Net
Use any old oil (cheap engine oil is good) in the turret - I think it takes 90cc.
Good instructions on Miata.Net
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