Anyone got a spare engine?
Discussion
redgriff500 said:
I presume you know about the simple loctite fix.
Have done a couple myself seems to be a pretty permanant cure and costs bugger all really.
Have done a couple myself seems to be a pretty permanant cure and costs bugger all really.
I've read about it a few times, wasn't sure quite how good it would be... But, if it's that easy to do, and you reckon it's "pretty permament", then I'll have a bit more of a look into it!
Cheers guys..
slinky
Well depending upon damage, usually all you need is a new bolt and key and a tube of loctite (or similar).
Basically people don't tighten the crank bolt up enough, it loosens and mangles the end of the crank, so all you need to do is align it correctly and then tighten it correctly. Not much harder than doing the cambelt.
I know of several cars that have several years of motoring on them after being fixed and are still going strong.
Basically people don't tighten the crank bolt up enough, it loosens and mangles the end of the crank, so all you need to do is align it correctly and then tighten it correctly. Not much harder than doing the cambelt.
I know of several cars that have several years of motoring on them after being fixed and are still going strong.
redgriff500 said:
Well depending upon damage, usually all you need is a new bolt and key and a tube of loctite (or similar).
Basically people don't tighten the crank bolt up enough, it loosens and mangles the end of the crank, so all you need to do is align it correctly and then tighten it correctly. Not much harder than doing the cambelt.
I know of several cars that have several years of motoring on them after being fixed and are still going strong.
Basically people don't tighten the crank bolt up enough, it loosens and mangles the end of the crank, so all you need to do is align it correctly and then tighten it correctly. Not much harder than doing the cambelt.
I know of several cars that have several years of motoring on them after being fixed and are still going strong.
The crank nose bolt is done to a low torque level, about 80 ft/lb. Usually they are over tightened. We had this problem with our first '5. Instead of loctiting the keyway I made up a new key using normal key material and shaped it exactly to fit the worn crankshaft.
It didn't take too long to do, it was just tedious. It lasted until my wife parked it in a ditch 12,000 miles later.
Just be aware that the later big nose crank engines aren't immune to a very similar problem!
Over tightening is not my experience !
Usually they end up finger tight !
There isn't an easy way to lock the engine and you cannot do it by applying the brakes...
Personally I drill a hole in the bottom of the bell housing and lock the flywheel with a screwdriver which is the fastest way.
Usually they end up finger tight !
There isn't an easy way to lock the engine and you cannot do it by applying the brakes...
Personally I drill a hole in the bottom of the bell housing and lock the flywheel with a screwdriver which is the fastest way.
Unfortunately I think this happened to mine last night - the large pulley on the engine didn't look like it was in-balance & looked a touch wobbly - engine was occasionally sounding like a diesel at idle which made me look for an under-bonnet issue.
Anyway died on the M25 - loads of steam pouring out, mangled belt & pulley itself looped into the belt & unnattached.
Is this repairable - any detailed info on the 'loctite' fix mentioned above.
many thanks,
BTW this is a 1.8 eunos
Anyway died on the M25 - loads of steam pouring out, mangled belt & pulley itself looped into the belt & unnattached.
Is this repairable - any detailed info on the 'loctite' fix mentioned above.
many thanks,
BTW this is a 1.8 eunos
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