NC front bushing replacements?
NC front bushing replacements?
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handbraketurn

Original Poster:

1,396 posts

182 months

Tuesday 29th July
quotequote all
As some of you may have read in previous thread, I've got to replace the lower control arms, I have sourced some used ones in good condition and cleaned them up. Whilst off the car, I'm planing to change the bushing on both control arms and replacing the ARB drop links.

The upper control arms have two bushes on each side, I'll use power flex replacements (PFF36-403).

I'm going to use Powerflex purple for the two major ones on lower arm:

PFF36-400
PFF36-401








There is also a lower damper bush (in lower control arm). I was planning to just use the Mazda OEM, they're £18 each.





Just wondering if any advice on whether there is a better alternative to the OEM or Powerflex?

And finally, I'll replace the Track Rod Ends whilst I'm there, so the front end is totally refreshed. There are cheap ones for c£15 each and the Mazda OEM ones are £120 for a pair. Very mixed reviews on the after-market generic ones.

Any experience in this would be gratefully received.

wildoliver

9,167 posts

232 months

Friday 1st August
quotequote all
The cheap drop links are fine, I've not noticed a difference between the "good" brands of aftermarket and the cheap ones tbh.

Given what you will be spending on the lower arms I would bite the bullet and fit new ones personally. You will get a slight increase of nvh from the polybushes, but I'm also dubious about long term use of them. You know a set of original arms should last about as long as your current ones.

The trouble with fitting new bushes is you aren't doing anything about the ball joint, granted I've never had an nc have ball joint issues, but that's because the bushes go first, refreshing the bushes for another cycle and it would be annoying to spend all this money and then need to do it again.

The real issue replacing the arms is labour, if that rear bolt is seized (they usually are) it's an absolute arse of a job. At least if replacing the arms you can just cut it out which is the easier way. Still not a fun job.

handbraketurn

Original Poster:

1,396 posts

182 months

Friday 1st August
quotequote all
Yes, I did wonder about the ball joints. (They're integrated and can't be replaced on their own for anyone reading who doesn't know).

The bushes are mostly ok on my car despite covering 90k miles and being 17 yo. It's the castor bolt that seized so I cannot adjust the tracking and geo. I'm replacing the lower control arm so the current one can be cut out. The lower arms I'm replacing are used but only done 34k miles. And I'm replacing the bushes whilst it's out. So I'm hopeful the ball joints will be ok.

The upper arms I am also planning to replace the bushes as its not a huge amount more labour to get those off and makes no sense not to do them whilst its all taken apart, but the ball joint is much older, hmm.. Job starts getting quite expensive to replace those, they're £190 each. I was hoping just to replace the bushes.....

I'm also putting white line adjustable ARBs nearly £600.

handbraketurn

Original Poster:

1,396 posts

182 months

Friday 1st August
quotequote all
Ps, any specific Track Rod End after market brand you recommend?

wildoliver

9,167 posts

232 months

Saturday 2nd August
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The white line bars are really good. They tend to do offers fairly regularly where the price comes down to a more realistic level, but they do them in a kit with the drop links, I'd buy that personally. Re aftermarket standard type, not especially, I do tend to use one of the "brands" on customers cars, but on my own I just use the cheapest. I'm yet to have a customer car back with a failed one, and I've yet to have one of the cheap ones fail on my own car in an unreasonable period.

I assume you know about the rx8 bars as a cheaper anti roll bar upgrade?

scz4

2,688 posts

257 months

Sunday 3rd August
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Just been through the same job on my project car I'm working on with my son.

In the end, I opted for buying new upper and lower arms (and all associated bolts) as it's a road car so wanted minimal NVH and worried about the potential squaking issue. Plus as mentioned above you still have to deal with the ball joints. Much more expensive though (£700 vs £140) so the car has to be a keeper.

If you do go down the poly bush route, go with SuperPro rather than Powerflex.

My car is a 2009 with 33k miles and I got very luck with just 1 seized bolt out of the 8 you'll be removing. Was simple enough to remove when I finally borrowed a reciprocating saw with a decent blade.



As for track rod ends and ARB drop links, I went with Blue Print items.