Track day suspension
Discussion
I've run Lionel 2, my track only NB for the last 18 months with chinas finest maxpeeding rods coilovers. They've been "ok" and have served a purpose.
After 3-4000 track miles, the front drivers damper has failed. Furthermore the build quality is pretty poor and i've had issues with top mounts coming loose etc.
So, time to replace. I'm bewildered by the choice, whats the best out there at the moment for a track only NB that gets driven pretty hard?
Budget up to ~£900
After 3-4000 track miles, the front drivers damper has failed. Furthermore the build quality is pretty poor and i've had issues with top mounts coming loose etc.
So, time to replace. I'm bewildered by the choice, whats the best out there at the moment for a track only NB that gets driven pretty hard?
Budget up to ~£900
I'd look st something from MeisterR as they are fully adjustable, especially the damping which can be altered from inside the boot/under the bonnet.
They offer some pretty good units developed for MX5's and their customer service is excellent.
I have GT1's fitted on my NA and can honestly say those are well worth the money.
See www.meisterr.co.uk
They offer some pretty good units developed for MX5's and their customer service is excellent.
I have GT1's fitted on my NA and can honestly say those are well worth the money.
See www.meisterr.co.uk
The meister r clubrace seem right up your street & exactly on budget.
Mate had the regular non cr meister on his nb & loved the handling as did everyone who drove it, I've got a set of Protech coilovers, rebuilt by them to a track spec, spring rates it's a road car that tracks, so I'm only on 500/300 I'd not want much harder for road use, I like that it's a UK firm & rebuilds etc are not a problem or too expensive.
I've had gaz golds before, I prefer the protechs.
I think we met briefly at Bedford last yr, I was in a Ginger NB turbo & we were parked next to each other in the trailer 'pits'
Mate had the regular non cr meister on his nb & loved the handling as did everyone who drove it, I've got a set of Protech coilovers, rebuilt by them to a track spec, spring rates it's a road car that tracks, so I'm only on 500/300 I'd not want much harder for road use, I like that it's a UK firm & rebuilds etc are not a problem or too expensive.
I've had gaz golds before, I prefer the protechs.
I think we met briefly at Bedford last yr, I was in a Ginger NB turbo & we were parked next to each other in the trailer 'pits'
Edited by iguana on Friday 25th February 10:16
I've heard good things about the Meister's as everyone else in this thread. I'm running the BCRacing on mine and had no issues with them at all. Gets driver on track and hard on the road, daily driver for 2 years, would maybe just recommend some of those coilover sock thingys to keep them nice.
I've had Meister CRDs on for 5-6 years and they've stood up to winter salt and lots of gravel road abuse.
Only thing I did was for road use I went down to a 4kg rear spring from the 5kg stock as it was too harsh with road tyre grip on poor roads (and turning the damping down just lost control of the rebound) - not an issue for a track car I'd think.
Other than that, no complaints, they work well, rides better now than the OE setup, quality's been fine.
Only thing I did was for road use I went down to a 4kg rear spring from the 5kg stock as it was too harsh with road tyre grip on poor roads (and turning the damping down just lost control of the rebound) - not an issue for a track car I'd think.
Other than that, no complaints, they work well, rides better now than the OE setup, quality's been fine.
This is a very good price...I know they are not meister R's but I am having these fitted on mine...delivered very quickly.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274295876855?hash=item3...i0AAOSwJzNeX-Xe
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274295876855?hash=item3...i0AAOSwJzNeX-Xe
Mr MXT said:
Bought direct from Meister in the end, ordered yesterday, delivered this morning. Will get them fitted at the weekend and report back after the next trackday
If you haven't done the units before - soak all nuts and bolts with penetrating oil numerous times before starting the job.Pay particular attention to the D bolts on the rear lower arm - the D faces forwards and invites crap into the thread so try to spray the pennie oil into those as well.
On the front I always remove the long top bolt, sliding it forward into the chassis leg using long nose mole grips and slightly slackening the anti-roll bar bolts as these protrude into the box section.
Use chain spray on nut and bolt re-assembly (Toolstaion or Screwfix) - makes life a lot easier next time!
Best of luck and if I'm trying to teach my grandmother to suck eggs - apologies.
Massive thanks for the MS- CR recommendation. Did Blyton on Saturday - they are absolutely phenomenal. I've never really "got" expensive suspension before, but they are absolute leagues ahead of the, admittedly crap, Maxpaedorods I had before.
Now after a bump the car just settles and grips immediately. I'm a big of a bugger for clattering the huge sausage cones at Blyton which meant the car was completely unsettled all the way through Lancaster (the last left) - not now. 100% worth the money (which incidentally was almost x2 what I paid for the car)
@iguana - Interestingly enough, it seems to have toned down my "exuberant" driving style, which is probably a good thing.
One of the better laps of the day, clearly still some time on the table so constructive feedback always appreciated!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIbia416VbM
Now after a bump the car just settles and grips immediately. I'm a big of a bugger for clattering the huge sausage cones at Blyton which meant the car was completely unsettled all the way through Lancaster (the last left) - not now. 100% worth the money (which incidentally was almost x2 what I paid for the car)
@iguana - Interestingly enough, it seems to have toned down my "exuberant" driving style, which is probably a good thing.
One of the better laps of the day, clearly still some time on the table so constructive feedback always appreciated!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIbia416VbM
Forgive the thread bump but I'm picking up a 2 litre NC next week and plan on using it as an occasional track and country lane car. I just wondered what geometry set up people find works best? Also, as I don't need the adjustability of coilovers what lowering springs are best and how low can you go before it starts causing issues? I've been thinking of a -45mm drop or thereabouts.
Excuse the rubbish pics but this has to be one of the cheapest 2 litre cars out there...
Excuse the rubbish pics but this has to be one of the cheapest 2 litre cars out there...
All you need to know about MX5 alignment settings:
https://supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.a...
https://supermiata.com/miata-race-alignment-info.a...
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