Ipswich area garage for pre-purchase inspection MX5
Discussion
Hi, I’m thinking of buying this 2007 mk3 MX-5 (£4,000, 89k miles)
https://www.tripleccarsales.co.uk/used-cars/mazda-...
MOT history doesn’t highlight any corrosion or other issues, I’d still like to get an inspection done -
one in an authorised workshop, not an AA or RAC one. I’m no expert myself so I want to pay the £150 or £200 for peace of mind.
Any recommendations in Ipswich area?
I see one in the sticky but can’t get through to them.
https://www.tripleccarsales.co.uk/used-cars/mazda-...
MOT history doesn’t highlight any corrosion or other issues, I’d still like to get an inspection done -
one in an authorised workshop, not an AA or RAC one. I’m no expert myself so I want to pay the £150 or £200 for peace of mind.
Any recommendations in Ipswich area?
I see one in the sticky but can’t get through to them.
ldn_mx5 said:
Sorry won’t the garage inspection cover both??
It depends on the technician, whether or not they've had any bodyshop experience.Many technicians are brilliant at what they do, but may not spot body repairs.
And I've seen some right bodges on MX5's
Ask the garage you're intending to use if they could check for previous repairs.
Trevor555 said:
It looks nice in the pics, but with MX5's of that age, it needs checking underneath.
Well I am debating these 2 options, (1) spend £4k on 80-90k miles 2006/7 car, have some £ reserve for repairs
(2) spend £6k on 60k miles/2009 car
I thought (1) made more sense...
And yeah, the dealer agreed to an independent inspection, even though it’s only a £4k car. They could even drop it off to the garage if it’s local. The guy seemed nice&professional
ldn_mx5 said:
Trevor555 said:
It looks nice in the pics, but with MX5's of that age, it needs checking underneath.
Well I am debating these 2 options, (1) spend £4k on 80-90k miles 2006/7 car, have some £ reserve for repairs
(2) spend £6k on 60k miles/2009 car
I thought (1) made more sense...
And yeah, the dealer agreed to an independent inspection, even though it’s only a £4k car. They could even drop it off to the garage if it’s local. The guy seemed nice&professional
That sounds very promising.
Regarding the two different cars you really have to judge every car on condition, regardless of age.
Some cars out there will have been used all year round, through winters, salted roads etc..
There'll be some MX5's that were more like summer toys and may have been garaged overnight for much of their lives.
So all I'm saying is you might get an older one that's in much better condition than a newer one, underneath anyhow.
Good luck with the search, they are wonderful cars to drive.
Trevor555 said:
The dealers sounds helpful, and not against you having an inspection.
That sounds very promising.
Regarding the two different cars you really have to judge every car on condition, regardless of age.
Some cars out there will have been used all year round, through winters, salted roads etc..
There'll be some MX5's that were more like summer toys and may have been garaged overnight for much of their lives.
So all I'm saying is you might get an older one that's in much better condition than a newer one, underneath anyhow.
Good luck with the search, they are wonderful cars to drive.
To clarify, „underneath” you mean corrosion?That sounds very promising.
Regarding the two different cars you really have to judge every car on condition, regardless of age.
Some cars out there will have been used all year round, through winters, salted roads etc..
There'll be some MX5's that were more like summer toys and may have been garaged overnight for much of their lives.
So all I'm saying is you might get an older one that's in much better condition than a newer one, underneath anyhow.
Good luck with the search, they are wonderful cars to drive.
I’d say 50% of older (2006-2009) NCs on autotrader have corriosion mentioned in their MOT histories. Not this one, I thought that was a good sign, but I of course
want this inspection to confirm that.
ldn_mx5 said:
Trevor555 said:
The dealers sounds helpful, and not against you having an inspection.
That sounds very promising.
Regarding the two different cars you really have to judge every car on condition, regardless of age.
Some cars out there will have been used all year round, through winters, salted roads etc..
There'll be some MX5's that were more like summer toys and may have been garaged overnight for much of their lives.
So all I'm saying is you might get an older one that's in much better condition than a newer one, underneath anyhow.
Good luck with the search, they are wonderful cars to drive.
To clarify, „underneath” you mean corrosion?That sounds very promising.
Regarding the two different cars you really have to judge every car on condition, regardless of age.
Some cars out there will have been used all year round, through winters, salted roads etc..
There'll be some MX5's that were more like summer toys and may have been garaged overnight for much of their lives.
So all I'm saying is you might get an older one that's in much better condition than a newer one, underneath anyhow.
Good luck with the search, they are wonderful cars to drive.
I’d say 50% of older (2006-2009) NCs on autotrader have corriosion mentioned in their MOT histories. Not this one, I thought that was a good sign, but I of course
want this inspection to confirm that.
It's a very good sign that this one has no MOT advisories for corrosion, and the fact that the dealer has no problems in you getting an indy inspection.
So yes, it's very promising.
Worth getting it checked though, some MOT testers aren't that bothered about putting loads of advisories down.
paulmaurice99 said:
Let us know how you got on. If you do buy one there’s an excellent specialist in Stradbroke, about 20 miles north of Ipswich. Can’t recommend them enough, and well known in club circles. Cleverley Repaired Cars or google MX5 expert. The proprietor, Michael, runs an early mk3.
Thank everyone for help. I bought a different MX-5, 2010 NC using click&collect from Norwich to London. Car arrived on the back of a lorry, I had agreed with the dealer that I'd carry out a "post-purchase" type inspection, and should that flag up something serious, I'd be looking to exercise my right to return the car within 14 days of purchase. The inspection was largely fine, anti-roll bar links had to be replaced for £120 which the dealer wasn't too forthcoming about refunding, even though he had assured me the inspection wouldn't flag up "anything". As otherwise the car was in very good condition, I just kept it, even if the dealer not replying to my email was a bit of a disappointment (he had been *very* responsive up until that point). On any MK3 especially a fresh purchase you need to get that felt rear wheel arch liner lifted at the bottom. It's held with an 8mm headed screw which does sometimes shear. But if it does popping the grommet out and drilling the screw out of it isn't a big drama.
However you can usually gently work the felt off the screw and back on to it without undoing it.
I can't over stress how important it is to check this area.
I wrote a mk1 and 2 book last year and am doing some MK3 books at the moment, buyers guides and resto books, I also restore MX5s and do rust repairs/wax work.
When I get MK3s in for general servicing or wax jobs so far I've had 100% hit rate of cars having either major rust in this area or having been previously repaired.
The issue is that the rot starts as the wheel arch liner being absorbent holds water against steel which is barely coated in any paint at all. Literally borderline bare steel. Rot breaks out, causes a hole, water penetrates the sill area and rots the floor and sill area. All the while this is covered by the felt liner and plastic sill cover.
By the time it becomes visible it's either taken the bottom of the sill out or has crept up enough to become visible on the arch (usually if a poor repair has been attempted).
It is repairable however at a reasonable cost. And in comparison to the front wishbone bolts seizing or engine issues these cars suffer from not something I mind doing at all.
However you can usually gently work the felt off the screw and back on to it without undoing it.
I can't over stress how important it is to check this area.
I wrote a mk1 and 2 book last year and am doing some MK3 books at the moment, buyers guides and resto books, I also restore MX5s and do rust repairs/wax work.
When I get MK3s in for general servicing or wax jobs so far I've had 100% hit rate of cars having either major rust in this area or having been previously repaired.
The issue is that the rot starts as the wheel arch liner being absorbent holds water against steel which is barely coated in any paint at all. Literally borderline bare steel. Rot breaks out, causes a hole, water penetrates the sill area and rots the floor and sill area. All the while this is covered by the felt liner and plastic sill cover.
By the time it becomes visible it's either taken the bottom of the sill out or has crept up enough to become visible on the arch (usually if a poor repair has been attempted).
It is repairable however at a reasonable cost. And in comparison to the front wishbone bolts seizing or engine issues these cars suffer from not something I mind doing at all.
wildoliver said:
On any MK3 especially a fresh purchase you need to get that felt rear wheel arch liner lifted at the bottom. It's held with an 8mm headed screw which does sometimes shear. But if it does popping the grommet out and drilling the screw out of it isn't a big drama.
However you can usually gently work the felt off the screw and back on to it without undoing it.
I can't over stress how important it is to check this area.
I wrote a mk1 and 2 book last year and am doing some MK3 books at the moment, buyers guides and resto books, I also restore MX5s and do rust repairs/wax work.
When I get MK3s in for general servicing or wax jobs so far I've had 100% hit rate of cars having either major rust in this area or having been previously repaired.
The issue is that the rot starts as the wheel arch liner being absorbent holds water against steel which is barely coated in any paint at all. Literally borderline bare steel. Rot breaks out, causes a hole, water penetrates the sill area and rots the floor and sill area. All the while this is covered by the felt liner and plastic sill cover.
By the time it becomes visible it's either taken the bottom of the sill out or has crept up enough to become visible on the arch (usually if a poor repair has been attempted).
It is repairable however at a reasonable cost. And in comparison to the front wishbone bolts seizing or engine issues these cars suffer from not something I mind doing at all.
Just bought the book However you can usually gently work the felt off the screw and back on to it without undoing it.
I can't over stress how important it is to check this area.
I wrote a mk1 and 2 book last year and am doing some MK3 books at the moment, buyers guides and resto books, I also restore MX5s and do rust repairs/wax work.
When I get MK3s in for general servicing or wax jobs so far I've had 100% hit rate of cars having either major rust in this area or having been previously repaired.
The issue is that the rot starts as the wheel arch liner being absorbent holds water against steel which is barely coated in any paint at all. Literally borderline bare steel. Rot breaks out, causes a hole, water penetrates the sill area and rots the floor and sill area. All the while this is covered by the felt liner and plastic sill cover.
By the time it becomes visible it's either taken the bottom of the sill out or has crept up enough to become visible on the arch (usually if a poor repair has been attempted).
It is repairable however at a reasonable cost. And in comparison to the front wishbone bolts seizing or engine issues these cars suffer from not something I mind doing at all.
For future reference, whereabouts in Yorkshire are you?
I don't want to turn this in to an ad for my business as it's not really fair on pistonheads who don't get revenue and thus won't like it anyway, but I am in East Yorks. The mentioning of business above was purely to put in to context I'm not just an owner who's had a freak bit of rust that doesn't affect most of the other cars.
MK2s some years ago suffered a similar issue with the also terribly designed front chassis legs which are a multi layer steel and wick water in between the layers blowing them out. It became a notice on the mot computer for testers to specifically check them due to the prevalence of the issue, I wouldn't be shocked if the MK3 issue became the same.
Thanks for buying the book by the way, much appreciated and I hope you enjoy it!
MK2s some years ago suffered a similar issue with the also terribly designed front chassis legs which are a multi layer steel and wick water in between the layers blowing them out. It became a notice on the mot computer for testers to specifically check them due to the prevalence of the issue, I wouldn't be shocked if the MK3 issue became the same.
Thanks for buying the book by the way, much appreciated and I hope you enjoy it!
wildoliver said:
On any MK3 especially a fresh purchase you need to get that felt rear wheel arch liner lifted at the bottom. It's held with an 8mm headed screw which does sometimes shear. But if it does popping the grommet out and drilling the screw out of it isn't a big drama.
However you can usually gently work the felt off the screw and back on to it without undoing it.
I can't over stress how important it is to check this area.
I wrote a mk1 and 2 book last year and am doing some MK3 books at the moment, buyers guides and resto books, I also restore MX5s and do rust repairs/wax work.
When I get MK3s in for general servicing or wax jobs so far I've had 100% hit rate of cars having either major rust in this area or having been previously repaired.
The issue is that the rot starts as the wheel arch liner being absorbent holds water against steel which is barely coated in any paint at all. Literally borderline bare steel. Rot breaks out, causes a hole, water penetrates the sill area and rots the floor and sill area. All the while this is covered by the felt liner and plastic sill cover.
By the time it becomes visible it's either taken the bottom of the sill out or has crept up enough to become visible on the arch (usually if a poor repair has been attempted).
It is repairable however at a reasonable cost. And in comparison to the front wishbone bolts seizing or engine issues these cars suffer from not something I mind doing at all.
I'm in the market for another MX5 - have been for a while, but got a bit jaded and stopped looking - just couldn't find what I was after.However you can usually gently work the felt off the screw and back on to it without undoing it.
I can't over stress how important it is to check this area.
I wrote a mk1 and 2 book last year and am doing some MK3 books at the moment, buyers guides and resto books, I also restore MX5s and do rust repairs/wax work.
When I get MK3s in for general servicing or wax jobs so far I've had 100% hit rate of cars having either major rust in this area or having been previously repaired.
The issue is that the rot starts as the wheel arch liner being absorbent holds water against steel which is barely coated in any paint at all. Literally borderline bare steel. Rot breaks out, causes a hole, water penetrates the sill area and rots the floor and sill area. All the while this is covered by the felt liner and plastic sill cover.
By the time it becomes visible it's either taken the bottom of the sill out or has crept up enough to become visible on the arch (usually if a poor repair has been attempted).
It is repairable however at a reasonable cost. And in comparison to the front wishbone bolts seizing or engine issues these cars suffer from not something I mind doing at all.
Reading your above post - do you reckon that a good Mk1 or Mk2 would be a better bet than a Mk3?
They are all good cars.
I love MK1s and Mk2s, but even though they are based on the same basic floorpan design there is a large difference between the 2, MK3 is a totally different car on a new platform (rx8 based) and drives differently, has a very different feel. Mk4 was a return to the fold.
They all rust (not seeing rotten mk4s her but no reason to believe they aren't coming). MK3s are no harder or more expensive (generally easier and cheaper to be honest) to repair than the earlier cars.
You need to look at all of them and base your decision off that, no point in buying a car you don't love just in the hope of it being less rusty.
I love MK1s and Mk2s, but even though they are based on the same basic floorpan design there is a large difference between the 2, MK3 is a totally different car on a new platform (rx8 based) and drives differently, has a very different feel. Mk4 was a return to the fold.
They all rust (not seeing rotten mk4s her but no reason to believe they aren't coming). MK3s are no harder or more expensive (generally easier and cheaper to be honest) to repair than the earlier cars.
You need to look at all of them and base your decision off that, no point in buying a car you don't love just in the hope of it being less rusty.
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