NC buying tips
Discussion
Hi everyone, hoping to go and look at a 2.0 Sport tomorrow. I won't post it here but was wondering if someone could give me some tips on what to look for? It's done about 90k miles and current owner states no issues, looks very clean on the advert.
I will look for obvious things such as the chain condition, and rust etc. But thought I'd ask on here for some more nuanced advice!
Thanks in advance!
I will look for obvious things such as the chain condition, and rust etc. But thought I'd ask on here for some more nuanced advice!
Thanks in advance!
You won't be checking the chain, but check in here: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?p=146
Evoluzione said:
You won't be checking the chain, but check in here: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?p=146
Not physically but I heard it can stretch a bit, you'd be able to hear that right?Thanks for the link!
RM10 said:
Evoluzione said:
You won't be checking the chain, but check in here: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?p=146
Not physically but I heard it can stretch a bit, you'd be able to hear that right?Thanks for the link!
It's for the life of the engine and I think it would have to be practically falling off the pulleys before you heard it.Look the current owner in the eyes and ask 'Does this car use any oil at all?' Get the answer, watch the reaction.
That and rust are the biggest things that will make an NC1 relatively worthless.
Evoluzione said:
RM10 said:
Evoluzione said:
You won't be checking the chain, but check in here: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?p=146
Not physically but I heard it can stretch a bit, you'd be able to hear that right?Thanks for the link!
It's for the life of the engine and I think it would have to be practically falling off the pulleys before you heard it.Look the current owner in the eyes and ask 'Does this car use any oil at all?' Get the answer, watch the reaction.
That and rust are the biggest things that will make an NC1 relatively worthless.
Ended up buying it, seems to be in good condition and runs really well. Needs the seal replacing around the windscreen and the roof needs a good clean but I couldn't see any major issues. Sills felt/looked solid enough!
I want to give it an oil change before I do any significant driving in it. Can you recommend a good synthetic oil & filter to use?
I want to give it an oil change before I do any significant driving in it. Can you recommend a good synthetic oil & filter to use?
Edited by RM10 on Thursday 3rd December 17:28
Sadly only just seen this.
Chains aren't a concern on MK3s. At all in any way.
You need however to do everything you can on an inspection to pull the felt cover away from the front lower section of the rear arch area. There is an 8mm headed screw on each side that holds it against the metal. At a push if you can't or aren't allowed to try to pull it away you can push on the screw and see how much flex there is. Any means the areas weakened.
This area is a huge rot issue. I restore 5s and I do a lot of wax jobs, in about 90% of MK3s this area is showing somewhere between the startings of rot through to major holes. As in fist sized. Water then enters the sill area and rots through the floor. This is the point it gets noticed. Or when it creeps up in to the arch from under the plastic skirt.
A lot of my business revolves around repairing rotten MK3s in this area.
Front wishbones can also have issues, which will still pass Mots but knock annoyingly and cause wooly handling. Horrible job to do as often the mounting bolts are rotted in.
Oil consumption is a big issue. Not just from the point of smoking and ultimately failing mot, even when losing relatively minor amounts the engine is super sensitive to oil level. The quantity of MK3s with engine issues is due to this, never buy one with a tapping engine, an engine swap is an expensive job. I am partway through writing another buyers guide and manual on the MK3 this time, and am also looking at repair solutions for the engine. But at the moment your relying on finding a good used item.
Chains aren't a concern on MK3s. At all in any way.
You need however to do everything you can on an inspection to pull the felt cover away from the front lower section of the rear arch area. There is an 8mm headed screw on each side that holds it against the metal. At a push if you can't or aren't allowed to try to pull it away you can push on the screw and see how much flex there is. Any means the areas weakened.
This area is a huge rot issue. I restore 5s and I do a lot of wax jobs, in about 90% of MK3s this area is showing somewhere between the startings of rot through to major holes. As in fist sized. Water then enters the sill area and rots through the floor. This is the point it gets noticed. Or when it creeps up in to the arch from under the plastic skirt.
A lot of my business revolves around repairing rotten MK3s in this area.
Front wishbones can also have issues, which will still pass Mots but knock annoyingly and cause wooly handling. Horrible job to do as often the mounting bolts are rotted in.
Oil consumption is a big issue. Not just from the point of smoking and ultimately failing mot, even when losing relatively minor amounts the engine is super sensitive to oil level. The quantity of MK3s with engine issues is due to this, never buy one with a tapping engine, an engine swap is an expensive job. I am partway through writing another buyers guide and manual on the MK3 this time, and am also looking at repair solutions for the engine. But at the moment your relying on finding a good used item.
wildoliver said:
Sadly only just seen this.
Chains aren't a concern on MK3s. At all in any way.
You need however to do everything you can on an inspection to pull the felt cover away from the front lower section of the rear arch area. There is an 8mm headed screw on each side that holds it against the metal. At a push if you can't or aren't allowed to try to pull it away you can push on the screw and see how much flex there is. Any means the areas weakened.
This area is a huge rot issue. I restore 5s and I do a lot of wax jobs, in about 90% of MK3s this area is showing somewhere between the startings of rot through to major holes. As in fist sized. Water then enters the sill area and rots through the floor. This is the point it gets noticed. Or when it creeps up in to the arch from under the plastic skirt.
A lot of my business revolves around repairing rotten MK3s in this area.
Front wishbones can also have issues, which will still pass Mots but knock annoyingly and cause wooly handling. Horrible job to do as often the mounting bolts are rotted in.
Oil consumption is a big issue. Not just from the point of smoking and ultimately failing mot, even when losing relatively minor amounts the engine is super sensitive to oil level. The quantity of MK3s with engine issues is due to this, never buy one with a tapping engine, an engine swap is an expensive job. I am partway through writing another buyers guide and manual on the MK3 this time, and am also looking at repair solutions for the engine. But at the moment your relying on finding a good used item.
Thank you for this, very helpful. I've actually bought it now but I will still check the items you've mentioned. Chains aren't a concern on MK3s. At all in any way.
You need however to do everything you can on an inspection to pull the felt cover away from the front lower section of the rear arch area. There is an 8mm headed screw on each side that holds it against the metal. At a push if you can't or aren't allowed to try to pull it away you can push on the screw and see how much flex there is. Any means the areas weakened.
This area is a huge rot issue. I restore 5s and I do a lot of wax jobs, in about 90% of MK3s this area is showing somewhere between the startings of rot through to major holes. As in fist sized. Water then enters the sill area and rots through the floor. This is the point it gets noticed. Or when it creeps up in to the arch from under the plastic skirt.
A lot of my business revolves around repairing rotten MK3s in this area.
Front wishbones can also have issues, which will still pass Mots but knock annoyingly and cause wooly handling. Horrible job to do as often the mounting bolts are rotted in.
Oil consumption is a big issue. Not just from the point of smoking and ultimately failing mot, even when losing relatively minor amounts the engine is super sensitive to oil level. The quantity of MK3s with engine issues is due to this, never buy one with a tapping engine, an engine swap is an expensive job. I am partway through writing another buyers guide and manual on the MK3 this time, and am also looking at repair solutions for the engine. But at the moment your relying on finding a good used item.
I've seen quite a few different suggestions for the right oil to use, what would you recommend?
Oil is very much a personal matter. You can't go far wrong on any car though just following the guide in the owners manual. Oils specs are all openly listed on packaging, find one that meets the min spec and off you go.
There isn't really any bad oil these days. Any manufacturer will do you fine. Regular changes are key to long life's not a specific manufacturer.
But and I cannot emphasize this enough. Check your oil level regularly. Once a week minimum. I have one customer who set off from Yorkshire to do the nc500. Half way round the oil was off the dipstick...... These cars can really drink oil. If the oil level drops it's game over.
There isn't really any bad oil these days. Any manufacturer will do you fine. Regular changes are key to long life's not a specific manufacturer.
But and I cannot emphasize this enough. Check your oil level regularly. Once a week minimum. I have one customer who set off from Yorkshire to do the nc500. Half way round the oil was off the dipstick...... These cars can really drink oil. If the oil level drops it's game over.
Inner wheel-arch lining, its a felt/fabric/astro turf type material which is excellent for noise attenuation but also excellent for absorbing and holding onto a lovely mud/water mix and sealing it up against the metal work. Blame the Ford influence for that on the Mk3.
As for Oil usage - they are sensitive to oil level, and it also anecdotally appears to be the 'one careful lady owner, never raced or rallied' types that actually are worse - the oil control rings stick, and hence the engines burn oil. Cars that have been exercised properly, i.e. given a good run and proper use of the RPM range when warm, seem less prone to burning oil.
Keep a very close eye on it. Its also not helped by the early dipstick being a terrible design.
As for Oil usage - they are sensitive to oil level, and it also anecdotally appears to be the 'one careful lady owner, never raced or rallied' types that actually are worse - the oil control rings stick, and hence the engines burn oil. Cars that have been exercised properly, i.e. given a good run and proper use of the RPM range when warm, seem less prone to burning oil.
Keep a very close eye on it. Its also not helped by the early dipstick being a terrible design.
MH Auto Services in Bletchley have repaired at least one MK3...
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https://www.facebook.com/1401920660101327/posts/17...
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