Three grand to spend on an MX5 ?
Discussion
Want to see what all the fuss is about, got a spare car we aren’t using, a 2010 Citroen C1 that we have decided to get rid of and rather than just not replace it, think I may scratch the itch.
So what’s the best to buy at that kind of money, half decent MK1 or maybe a 2.0 Mk3 ? Key thing is no huge rot to sort out.
Where is best to look ?
So what’s the best to buy at that kind of money, half decent MK1 or maybe a 2.0 Mk3 ? Key thing is no huge rot to sort out.
Where is best to look ?
If I were to do it again, I'd buy one from a specialist, or buy the cheapest one I could find, and have it delivered to a specialist for it to be sorted.
Buying a "mint" one from a trader or private seller could leave you with a rusty lump in 12months.
At least with a specialist (you'd hope anyway) that common bits would be sorted before sale, or at least not bodged.
Buying a "mint" one from a trader or private seller could leave you with a rusty lump in 12months.
At least with a specialist (you'd hope anyway) that common bits would be sorted before sale, or at least not bodged.
Have a look at this rust guide (and the other guides from the same guys), tells you pretty much everything you need to know about rusty Mk1's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYmOogg5qIs
For 3k there are definitely clean Mk1's out there, I paid about that 6 months ago and took it the chaps in the video above for a rust prevention treatment, they confirmed it was completely rust free (apart from some surface rust on the wishbones etc. which is pretty normal). I was able to see the car on a ramp first, but you can see a lot without a lift if you watch the video.
If you need sill/rear wing repairs these guys charge in the region of £750-800 per side, you can get cheaper but I'd definitely look to an mx5 specialist for a job that won't need doing again, my experience from a previous mx5 was if it's not done properly it'll need doing again within a couple of years and probably be in a worse state for having a poor repair.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zYmOogg5qIs
For 3k there are definitely clean Mk1's out there, I paid about that 6 months ago and took it the chaps in the video above for a rust prevention treatment, they confirmed it was completely rust free (apart from some surface rust on the wishbones etc. which is pretty normal). I was able to see the car on a ramp first, but you can see a lot without a lift if you watch the video.
If you need sill/rear wing repairs these guys charge in the region of £750-800 per side, you can get cheaper but I'd definitely look to an mx5 specialist for a job that won't need doing again, my experience from a previous mx5 was if it's not done properly it'll need doing again within a couple of years and probably be in a worse state for having a poor repair.
Am thinking a MK3 2.0 may be a better, if not entirely rust free proposition ?
Seen a few in budget and could potentially stretch a but more.
I know a chap who has had the same MK1 for 16 years and that is finally succumbing to the rust, am not averse to getting my MIG out but dont want to have to, want something that can live outside, not leak and start when I want to use it.
I like the MK1 but they by and large are either dogs, or lovely and expensive.
Think will find a dealer locally with one and go and have a look round it.
Seen a few in budget and could potentially stretch a but more.
I know a chap who has had the same MK1 for 16 years and that is finally succumbing to the rust, am not averse to getting my MIG out but dont want to have to, want something that can live outside, not leak and start when I want to use it.
I like the MK1 but they by and large are either dogs, or lovely and expensive.
Think will find a dealer locally with one and go and have a look round it.
Do not think the mk.3/NC don't suffer from rust they do and badly - some are not old enough yet and the plastic sill covers, cover it up! Mine was an '06 sport with 60,000 and whilst is passed the MOT fine was cosmetically challenged around the arches and the sills did not look good.
From my experience they are as bad or worse than the NB's
If I was looking at another (and I am) I will just lease a new one
From my experience they are as bad or worse than the NB's
If I was looking at another (and I am) I will just lease a new one
Edited by ecotec on Monday 15th July 20:57
Watched the videos on Mk3 rust, will get our holiday out of the way, advertise the Citroen and then, when that sells, see what is about.
No mad hurry, will check any over very carefully and bargain hard, MX5 prices seem speculative in a lot of cases. Will see if there is one in a dealers locally, even if its only a 1.8, want to check I fit ok and crawl under one, am 6ft so not massive but pretty broad shoulders, managed in a 944 cab and 350Z roadster but they are a bit bigger I think.
Might insist on any potential purchase being inspected at a garage for rust as well, or at least need to get under it with a torch. Whatever I get would get some treatment but dont want to have to start welding.
No mad hurry, will check any over very carefully and bargain hard, MX5 prices seem speculative in a lot of cases. Will see if there is one in a dealers locally, even if its only a 1.8, want to check I fit ok and crawl under one, am 6ft so not massive but pretty broad shoulders, managed in a 944 cab and 350Z roadster but they are a bit bigger I think.
Might insist on any potential purchase being inspected at a garage for rust as well, or at least need to get under it with a torch. Whatever I get would get some treatment but dont want to have to start welding.
Dave. said:
If I were to do it again, I'd buy one from a specialist, or buy the cheapest one I could find, and have it delivered to a specialist for it to be sorted.
Buying a "mint" one from a trader or private seller could leave you with a rusty lump in 12months.
At least with a specialist (you'd hope anyway) that common bits would be sorted before sale, or at least not bodged.
This seems like very good advice! I bought a Mk2 recently and am learning about rust and MX5's, which seem to go together like strawberries and cream, but not as tasty! I bought one for £300 to mess about with, and it's rubbish, but I expected that as it's a project. I would certainly have been disappointed if I had spent ten times that on it. From my limited experience and research, the asking price of private sellers and small garages seems 'optimistic' in some cases if you have a look at the online mot checker, Did I say optimistic, in some cases the cars seem downright frightening. My favourite has to be this one so far; for sale for 2.5k and looks quite tidy in the photos, but a quick check reveals Buying a "mint" one from a trader or private seller could leave you with a rusty lump in 12months.
At least with a specialist (you'd hope anyway) that common bits would be sorted before sale, or at least not bodged.
uploadPart of the chassis repaired with cardboard and no mention of major structural repairs in the ad - eek! Take care when you're looking.
There are some wonderful looking Mk1's that have had money spent on them and Mk3's do look very good value for money, but I haven't seen any/many tempting Mk2's - are they a lost cause? I may be completely wrong, but if I were buying a Mk2 for more than a few hundred pounds I'd probably want to buy it from someone who know's their MX5's or with evidence of significant work to correct the usual rot issues. Perhaps it's best to get the cheapest one you can and expect to rebuild everything? That way, anything sound is a really nice surprise!
Some MX5 Specialists have a poor reputation for the quality of cars sold. Some of them know enough of the ins and outs of the car to make a poor example look convincing. None of them will sell you a good car for £3k.
If the budget is £3k for Mk1, they only way to get one for that price thats rust free/ never welded, is luck. One might fall into your lap next week, or it might take 6 months. They do exist; in general, you need to be looking at imports brought in over the last 10 years or less. Anything older, assume rust.
There is something to be said it getting an car with ugly repairs for about £1k and MOT, spend the summer deciding whether you like an MX5 or not, or identifying and prioritizing the issues; if its a bit scabby at the rear, you probably won't have to do any repairs for a while.
£1500 will cover getting both rear sills, arches replaced and painted by a specialist, leaving £500 for a new hood. Look for cars that might need sill repairs, but the owner has recently fitted a new hood. Its a sign that, for a while, the owner took pride in the car, then got dispirited about rust. If the car you are looking at, has a patched up hood, not a good sign about general upkeep. Rust occurs from the inside out, and is really down to a design flaw, rather than neglect by the owner.
If you decide you don't like MX5s, you won't lose money on the £1k car.
Mk2s are a bit trickier; there is more effort needed to check from front frame rust, and if discovered, its not something you can really ignore for a while.
The models to look for are 1996-97 imports. Most of them will have a LSD, and if they do, it will be a 4.300 final gear diff, lightweight flywheel, not the 4.100 found on other Mk1 1.8s (exept rare RS and R-Limited). Makes the car feel a bit zippier off the line. UK 90-93 1.6s had a lighter flywheel than imported Mk1 1.6s (for some reason, Euro spec cars got the Mazdaspeed flywheel), making them marginally more lively.
If the budget is £3k for Mk1, they only way to get one for that price thats rust free/ never welded, is luck. One might fall into your lap next week, or it might take 6 months. They do exist; in general, you need to be looking at imports brought in over the last 10 years or less. Anything older, assume rust.
There is something to be said it getting an car with ugly repairs for about £1k and MOT, spend the summer deciding whether you like an MX5 or not, or identifying and prioritizing the issues; if its a bit scabby at the rear, you probably won't have to do any repairs for a while.
£1500 will cover getting both rear sills, arches replaced and painted by a specialist, leaving £500 for a new hood. Look for cars that might need sill repairs, but the owner has recently fitted a new hood. Its a sign that, for a while, the owner took pride in the car, then got dispirited about rust. If the car you are looking at, has a patched up hood, not a good sign about general upkeep. Rust occurs from the inside out, and is really down to a design flaw, rather than neglect by the owner.
If you decide you don't like MX5s, you won't lose money on the £1k car.
Mk2s are a bit trickier; there is more effort needed to check from front frame rust, and if discovered, its not something you can really ignore for a while.
The models to look for are 1996-97 imports. Most of them will have a LSD, and if they do, it will be a 4.300 final gear diff, lightweight flywheel, not the 4.100 found on other Mk1 1.8s (exept rare RS and R-Limited). Makes the car feel a bit zippier off the line. UK 90-93 1.6s had a lighter flywheel than imported Mk1 1.6s (for some reason, Euro spec cars got the Mazdaspeed flywheel), making them marginally more lively.
You will fit in a MK3 no problem I would have thought. The earlier cars without height adjustable seats sit lowest can be easily modded to sit lower if needs be.
3k should get you an early car but do watch out for rust at the sill where it meets the rear arch. Some have rusted badly but others haven't rusted at all. There are plenty about so be picky.
3k should get you an early car but do watch out for rust at the sill where it meets the rear arch. Some have rusted badly but others haven't rusted at all. There are plenty about so be picky.
drgoatboy said:
. There are plenty about so be picky.
This.I just drove home last night in my new Mk3 - 2006 2.0 Sport, 6 speed with Bose and Heated Leather etc, 85000 miles, solid, good history and in the best colour (True Red).
Came with Meister R, trackday tyres and a Cobra exhaust. 3 grand.
They are out there, if you are patient and search.
snotrag said:
drgoatboy said:
. There are plenty about so be picky.
This.I just drove home last night in my new Mk3 - 2006 2.0 Sport, 6 speed with Bose and Heated Leather etc, 85000 miles, solid, good history and in the best colour (True Red).
Came with Meister R, trackday tyres and a Cobra exhaust. 3 grand.
They are out there, if you are patient and search.
J4CKO said:
Want to see what all the fuss is about, got a spare car we aren’t using, a 2010 Citroen C1 that we have decided to get rid of and rather than just not replace it, think I may scratch the itch.
So what’s the best to buy at that kind of money, half decent MK1 or maybe a 2.0 Mk3 ? Key thing is no huge rot to sort out.
Where is best to look ?
Having a 3.5 with BBR turbo I'd recommend modding the C1 for track days to give you more bang per buck.So what’s the best to buy at that kind of money, half decent MK1 or maybe a 2.0 Mk3 ? Key thing is no huge rot to sort out.
Where is best to look ?
If you strip out the already lighweight C1 by removing the rear seats, the aircon etc and fitting grippy 195 tyres on lightweight cheap 16 inch wheels such as Rota slipstreams ...
Doing the above you will be amazed how fast your C1 can then corner!
You can then proceed to getting the suspension lowered to make it even more go kart like.
These are the best track day tyres for this car, far better than toyos.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/dunlop-dz03g-road-...
Eibach springs and Bilstein suspension ... sorted. There is a K and N air filter that normally does not add anything but in this car, being so light, it adds a bit at 3600rpm. And adds induction noises.
Brakes can be uprated by simple EBC green pads and disks, they make a huge difference.
PS What rust on the MX5 ? Mines 9 years old and has none. Are you all living "oop north" with a damabout to give it a dousing ?
I've got a mouldy soft top that is slowly becoming resistant to all antibiotics is more of a worry ...... and people in Waley Bridge thought they had issues.
Edited by Gandahar on Sunday 11th August 17:13
No progress thus far, been away, got the C1 cleaned, well, most of it, still some bits to do to meet my standard and will get it advertised.
I am sort of gravitating towards a Mk1 again, no plans to mod the C1 as whatever fun it could be it wont be a sports car, kind of not into the Mk2, some look good but most look a bit limp, a neighbour has a MK2 and a MK1 on axle stands, might go and bother him and see if I can have a nosey.
Going to find some videos/blogs to watch about sorting the rust, I have done work on various cars in the past rust wise, my 944 S2 took a lot of work, I can do it but prefer not to, I do a reasonable job but its slow going.
I was out in my M135i last night and its a great car, but for batting down country lanes it feels a bit of a blunt instrument, its rapid and if you use the paddles it puts a little bit of the engagement of losing a manual back but it just feels a bit loose. Half the fun of driving is feeling you are wringing the cars neck, but this just efficiently has you going really quickly and you end up backing off as it accelerates so hard, I know there are faster, much faster but it bloody shifts with 370 bhp.
I could go any buy an MX5 now but need the space freeing up taken by the C1 first.
I am sort of gravitating towards a Mk1 again, no plans to mod the C1 as whatever fun it could be it wont be a sports car, kind of not into the Mk2, some look good but most look a bit limp, a neighbour has a MK2 and a MK1 on axle stands, might go and bother him and see if I can have a nosey.
Going to find some videos/blogs to watch about sorting the rust, I have done work on various cars in the past rust wise, my 944 S2 took a lot of work, I can do it but prefer not to, I do a reasonable job but its slow going.
I was out in my M135i last night and its a great car, but for batting down country lanes it feels a bit of a blunt instrument, its rapid and if you use the paddles it puts a little bit of the engagement of losing a manual back but it just feels a bit loose. Half the fun of driving is feeling you are wringing the cars neck, but this just efficiently has you going really quickly and you end up backing off as it accelerates so hard, I know there are faster, much faster but it bloody shifts with 370 bhp.
I could go any buy an MX5 now but need the space freeing up taken by the C1 first.
J4CKO said:
I was out in my M135i last night and its a great car, but for batting down country lanes it feels a bit of a blunt instrument, its rapid and if you use the paddles it puts a little bit of the engagement of losing a manual back but it just feels a bit loose. Half the fun of driving is feeling you are wringing the cars neck, but this just efficiently has you going really quickly and you end up backing off as it accelerates so hard, I know there are faster, much faster but it bloody shifts with 370 bhp.
Due to moving house and needing the funds, I sold my 430d auto (not an m135i granted) and am into a 1.4l polo. Ringing the absolute neck of every single gear (in a manual car) and still being at sensible speeds is so much more fun than simply accelerating quickly. I don’t miss the 4 series at all.
At 6' & broad at the shoulders you might find the tiny cabin of the MK 1 irritating after a while. Being such a small car & with the roof down you WILL be vulnerable & feel it especially in traffic.
The MK3 whilst less pretty & still very common feels bigger & can be better equipped such as a/c & cruise if such things are important to you.
Trouble is many are owned by non-enthusiasts & are merely a way of getting from A to B so may not have been lavished with attention, just (hopefully) properly serviced.
Good luck.
The MK3 whilst less pretty & still very common feels bigger & can be better equipped such as a/c & cruise if such things are important to you.
Trouble is many are owned by non-enthusiasts & are merely a way of getting from A to B so may not have been lavished with attention, just (hopefully) properly serviced.
Good luck.
I'm actually looking to change out of my track day mk1 into a more civilised mk3. I'd expect both to be around £3k. The only thing that puts me off is the rust on the mk3, having spent something like £1,500 putting it right on the mk1. Oh, and also going down from the 220 bhp i have now down to 160 on the mk3...
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