MX5 Rocketeer Conversion March kit delivery
Discussion
Hi all, Starting this thread to mainly clarify differences between the latest kits and previous ones. i'm not going to do a complete build thread as there are much better ones already here. So if anyone is doing the V6 conversion with the latest kit and find anomalies please feel free to enter them here. Hopefully this will make all our lives easier.
So first off, They are now using their own throttle bodies so you do not need an extra body, you will need a TPS from an NB and an ICV from an NB.
Wise to get some new flywheel bolts for a manual G/box if your engine came from an Auto as the Auto ones are only 15mm long whereas the manual bolts are 25mm (Moss supply them )
There is no mention in the instructions of the O2 sensor or connections to the ECU, Bruce says a single wire sensor is needed and connect to the Yellow wire in the ECU loom.
Trial fit the subframe first as the bolt holes may need elongating slightly, easier than with the engine in. Check the G/box mounting bolts thread pitch, should be M12 x 1.5 as were mine but the adapter plate was tapped at 1.75 (a long story but mine should be the only one like this).
Put an earth strap between the starter motor and engine as it is mounted on an anodised ally plate and can act as an insulator
Check all the fitting kit bag contents against the list on the bags asap, there should be 22 bags, hey we're all human
Thats all i can think of at the moment
So first off, They are now using their own throttle bodies so you do not need an extra body, you will need a TPS from an NB and an ICV from an NB.
Wise to get some new flywheel bolts for a manual G/box if your engine came from an Auto as the Auto ones are only 15mm long whereas the manual bolts are 25mm (Moss supply them )
There is no mention in the instructions of the O2 sensor or connections to the ECU, Bruce says a single wire sensor is needed and connect to the Yellow wire in the ECU loom.
Trial fit the subframe first as the bolt holes may need elongating slightly, easier than with the engine in. Check the G/box mounting bolts thread pitch, should be M12 x 1.5 as were mine but the adapter plate was tapped at 1.75 (a long story but mine should be the only one like this).
Put an earth strap between the starter motor and engine as it is mounted on an anodised ally plate and can act as an insulator
Check all the fitting kit bag contents against the list on the bags asap, there should be 22 bags, hey we're all human
Thats all i can think of at the moment
Agree with checking the sub frame fits, mine needed quite a bit of filing to get the holes into the correct place.
Kit 7 the Alternator bracket is now a right angled bracket and not as shown (in my kit at least) although it performs the same function.
The right hand side exhaust manifold in my kit fouled on two of the lower studs - make sure you check this as it is not obvious, i had to cut them down.
My engine is an early version and has the plastic fuel rail. The newer lower inlet manifold with metal fuel rail is a better design. Unfortunately you will need the entire manifold as the metal fuel rail is not compatible with the older manifold. I had to drill out the plastic rail as the plug with the kit was too long (temporary solution until i can get a newer manifold).
The kit does not include a new sump gasket or new exhaust manifold gaskets, i would recommend buying and fitting new ones.
Kit 7 the Alternator bracket is now a right angled bracket and not as shown (in my kit at least) although it performs the same function.
The right hand side exhaust manifold in my kit fouled on two of the lower studs - make sure you check this as it is not obvious, i had to cut them down.
My engine is an early version and has the plastic fuel rail. The newer lower inlet manifold with metal fuel rail is a better design. Unfortunately you will need the entire manifold as the metal fuel rail is not compatible with the older manifold. I had to drill out the plastic rail as the plug with the kit was too long (temporary solution until i can get a newer manifold).
The kit does not include a new sump gasket or new exhaust manifold gaskets, i would recommend buying and fitting new ones.
.I have come across a slight query with the loom, there are two sub looms one fits the right bank and one the left, labelled Coil 1,Coil 2, Coil 3, VVT 1 and (strangely) Cam 2, the other is Coil 4, Coil 5, Coil 6, VVT 2 and (strangely) Cam 1. I am hoping they are incorectly labelled as i reckon the Cam leads should be the other way around
Also there are 3 positions to fit the O2 sensor one in each branch before the "Y" and one after the "Y". Will get in touch with Bruce or Andy tomorrow and clarify these two points and report back.......
Also there are 3 positions to fit the O2 sensor one in each branch before the "Y" and one after the "Y". Will get in touch with Bruce or Andy tomorrow and clarify these two points and report back.......
I had the same issue. Had to cut them down. I thought i had two spare bolts until i realized they also bolt in under the sub frame. Also had to space out the adjusters of both the alternator and PAS pump to keep them square and prevent them fouling on the brackets....
I have just ordered a shorter belt for the alternator, it is fouling on the HP PAS pipework that comes out of the steering rack.
I have just ordered a shorter belt for the alternator, it is fouling on the HP PAS pipework that comes out of the steering rack.
4PK823 was the belt i ordered. It is the next shortest from 830.
I was thinking i may need to put the belt on the alternator with it off the bracket and then push it around and slide the bolt in if it is that tight.
Apart from these 'Tweaks' and fitting a catch can i am done to the point i am waiting for the new ECU and loom. I agreed to wait for the latest version but starting to regret it as i want to use the car in this weather!
I was thinking i may need to put the belt on the alternator with it off the bracket and then push it around and slide the bolt in if it is that tight.
Apart from these 'Tweaks' and fitting a catch can i am done to the point i am waiting for the new ECU and loom. I agreed to wait for the latest version but starting to regret it as i want to use the car in this weather!
just fitted a 4pk820 Alt belt, much better as the i couldn't get the 830 tight enough as the Alt was going passed the top of the arc. Also cut 10mm off each end of the barrel of the turnbuckle and the studs which makes it easier to adjust as the lock nuts are further away from the brackets, might look at doing the same mod on the PAS pump adjuster. Fitted the catch tank using the two inputs, one from each cam cover bank and a PCM from the old 1.8 engine in the breather on the top of the tank to stop air going back in the engine. That has improved the idle quite a lot but not there yet. Update.....Leaving the PCM off the catch tank now.
Edited by peterw7022 on Friday 17th May 22:24
Nice work.
The 823 Belt is still just too close for me so i have ordered an 813 belt i will try and fit over the weekend.
When i spoke to Andy at Basset Down he recommended leaving the cam cover breathers open to take air in or push it out. On the original engine they are connected between the airbox and the throttle body so can breath either way. I plan to join them and put a an air filter on the end. I am only using the catch can for the crank case breather to keep the junk out of the inlets which is causing me issues to fit as the AN10 fittings i am using on the inlet manifold takes up two connections due to its size.
Did you have any issues setting up the throttle with the new throttle bodies? I had to fit a bush to the throttle pedal or it was too slack.
The 823 Belt is still just too close for me so i have ordered an 813 belt i will try and fit over the weekend.
When i spoke to Andy at Basset Down he recommended leaving the cam cover breathers open to take air in or push it out. On the original engine they are connected between the airbox and the throttle body so can breath either way. I plan to join them and put a an air filter on the end. I am only using the catch can for the crank case breather to keep the junk out of the inlets which is causing me issues to fit as the AN10 fittings i am using on the inlet manifold takes up two connections due to its size.
Did you have any issues setting up the throttle with the new throttle bodies? I had to fit a bush to the throttle pedal or it was too slack.
Had to shorten the throttle cable as it was way too long, and fit a universal nipple. Have yet to find anything to fit the lock nuts on the butterfly adjusters as there is no clearance around them. All i've done is balanced them as the ICV should in theory take care of the idle. After posting some logs on the Kitnet forum the sensus of opinium is that it is running too rich with a Lambda of 10.3,so i got to get more air in or less fuel. Also had a problem with the TPS, had to make an adapter plate to make it adjustable as it wasn't operating until about 3/4 throttle and had to modify the connector as it wouldn't lock in to the TPS .
Edited by peterw7022 on Sunday 28th April 07:04
Good information thanks.
I noticed the same issue with the TPS yesterday. I initially tried using the TPS from my NA but it locates differently. I ordered an NB TPS last week and when fitting i had the same issue. I was going to email Bruce but may just get on and make an adapter if that is what is needed. I assume the the locator position in relation to the butterfly cannot be adjusted in anyway? How did you modify the locator?
I will be honest i was not expecting to have so many little issues considering the cost of the kit. I am still waiting for a date on the ECU and loom.
I noticed the same issue with the TPS yesterday. I initially tried using the TPS from my NA but it locates differently. I ordered an NB TPS last week and when fitting i had the same issue. I was going to email Bruce but may just get on and make an adapter if that is what is needed. I assume the the locator position in relation to the butterfly cannot be adjusted in anyway? How did you modify the locator?
I will be honest i was not expecting to have so many little issues considering the cost of the kit. I am still waiting for a date on the ECU and loom.
peterw7022 said:
I have come across a slight query with the loom, there are two sub looms one fits the right bank and one the left, labelled Coil 1,Coil 2, Coil 3, VVT 1 and (strangely) Cam 2, the other is Coil 4, Coil 5, Coil 6, VVT 2 and (strangely) Cam 1. I am hoping they are incorectly labelled as i reckon the Cam leads should be the other way around
Also there are 3 positions to fit the O2 sensor one in each branch before the "Y" and one after the "Y". Will get in touch with Bruce or Andy tomorrow and clarify these two points and report back.......
O.K. As i had no reply from Bruce or Andy on these, so as it starts and sort of runs I have to assume that my cam sensor cables are incorrectly labelled and on my loom Cam 1 goes to Cam 2 and visa versa. O2 sensor after the "Y" as it has to see both banks.Also there are 3 positions to fit the O2 sensor one in each branch before the "Y" and one after the "Y". Will get in touch with Bruce or Andy tomorrow and clarify these two points and report back.......
![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/bajY780f.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/yJU4e2Xs" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/yJU4e2Xs.jpg[/img]</a> <a href="https://thumbsnap.com/GjBwn9XE" Target="_blank" rel="nofollow">[img]https://thumbsnap.com/sc/GjBwn9XE.jpg)
So after also making a bracket to fit the TPS i was up at basset down today picking up a Friends turbo build and had a chat with Andy. You do not need to make a bracket, just remove the end plate that the TPS bolts to and rotate it to the next position, the TPS then fits fine. 
Bruce is in the process of updating the instructions. I still have another 2-3 weeks until the new ECU and Loom are ready..
Bruce is in the process of updating the instructions. I still have another 2-3 weeks until the new ECU and Loom are ready..
Gassing Station | Mazda MX5/Roadster/Miata | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff