NC 2.0 bad thermostat?
Discussion
Hi all,
I've only had my 2.0 NC a few weeks so it's not really familiar yet. I have found though that the coolant temperature tends to stay in the bottom quarter of the dial (only going above that when driving around town) and the heater is only warm right at the very upper heater settings, however there it does feel really warm.
I'm thinking I'll change the thermostat, but is this normal? As I don't know the car that well, I thought I'd check before going to that trouble to find it's just how they are!
I've only had my 2.0 NC a few weeks so it's not really familiar yet. I have found though that the coolant temperature tends to stay in the bottom quarter of the dial (only going above that when driving around town) and the heater is only warm right at the very upper heater settings, however there it does feel really warm.
I'm thinking I'll change the thermostat, but is this normal? As I don't know the car that well, I thought I'd check before going to that trouble to find it's just how they are!
Yep, just done the exact job on my NC.
Depending on mileage, might be worth doing the water pump while you're there, as you'll need to remove the air box and throttle body to access the thermostat. There are long and short neck versions of the thermostat, so make sure to get the right one.
Also, check your coolant cap to see if you need FL22 coolant, I used around 7 litres (which included running the engine for a couple of seconds to pump a bit more of the old coolant out) MX5parts sell this relatively cheap.
The lower, rearmost bolt for the thermostat was really tight on mine, but thankfully didn't snap. I replaced all three with stainless. Torque is 11.5Nm - this is important, you don't want to be stripping these.
Service manual is here if you don't already have it. Includes the bleeding procedure which is handy.
http://www.mellens.net/mazda/Mazda-Miata-2006-2007...
Depending on mileage, might be worth doing the water pump while you're there, as you'll need to remove the air box and throttle body to access the thermostat. There are long and short neck versions of the thermostat, so make sure to get the right one.
Also, check your coolant cap to see if you need FL22 coolant, I used around 7 litres (which included running the engine for a couple of seconds to pump a bit more of the old coolant out) MX5parts sell this relatively cheap.
The lower, rearmost bolt for the thermostat was really tight on mine, but thankfully didn't snap. I replaced all three with stainless. Torque is 11.5Nm - this is important, you don't want to be stripping these.
Service manual is here if you don't already have it. Includes the bleeding procedure which is handy.
http://www.mellens.net/mazda/Mazda-Miata-2006-2007...
Thanks, that service manual will be really handy!
It looks like a simple enough job, but I might get the local Mazda specialist to do it on the basis they can have a look around the car at the same time and let me know if there’s anything I should be aware of.
I got it cheap (so there’s room for a bit of spending
) but with the minimum of history, so it could give me a bit of peace of mind.
It’s only an occasional car for me, so it’s not that urgent
It looks like a simple enough job, but I might get the local Mazda specialist to do it on the basis they can have a look around the car at the same time and let me know if there’s anything I should be aware of.
I got it cheap (so there’s room for a bit of spending
) but with the minimum of history, so it could give me a bit of peace of mind.It’s only an occasional car for me, so it’s not that urgent
Gassing Station | Mazda MX5/Roadster/Miata | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff