Talk to me about Mk2 MX-5s
Discussion
I've got a slight sense of de ja vu. Having owned two MX-5s I now seem to be looking out for a third one. 
This time around, I'm looking for something affordable that I can abuse on autotests and autosolos, so I think a decent Mk1 is probably beyond my price range. I did seriously look at a couple of Mk2s in the past, so I know the basics, but I wondered if I could just recap on a couple of points.
Firstly, rust. Based on the ones I looked at before, the Mk2s seem to be divided into two camps: Those which have had significant rust repairs and those that will need them. I'm aware that the chassis legs are the real killer, but what sort of bill are we talking about if they do need doing? Is it possible to get a car that has rusty sills that's still sound elsewhere or do issues with the sills imply a wider problem? Are there areas where rust isn't so much a problem (I think virtually all the ones I've checked have had seat belt anchorage flagged up on their MOT history but most seem to have soldiered on for years after that...)?
Next, which UK Mk2s had a factory-fitted LSD? How easy is it to retro-fit one to a car that started with an open diff?
What are the pros and cons of the six-speed gearbox on the Mk2.5? Any other pros and cons to the Mk2.5?
This time around, I'm looking for something affordable that I can abuse on autotests and autosolos, so I think a decent Mk1 is probably beyond my price range. I did seriously look at a couple of Mk2s in the past, so I know the basics, but I wondered if I could just recap on a couple of points.
Firstly, rust. Based on the ones I looked at before, the Mk2s seem to be divided into two camps: Those which have had significant rust repairs and those that will need them. I'm aware that the chassis legs are the real killer, but what sort of bill are we talking about if they do need doing? Is it possible to get a car that has rusty sills that's still sound elsewhere or do issues with the sills imply a wider problem? Are there areas where rust isn't so much a problem (I think virtually all the ones I've checked have had seat belt anchorage flagged up on their MOT history but most seem to have soldiered on for years after that...)?
Next, which UK Mk2s had a factory-fitted LSD? How easy is it to retro-fit one to a car that started with an open diff?
What are the pros and cons of the six-speed gearbox on the Mk2.5? Any other pros and cons to the Mk2.5?
Edited by Chris71 on Tuesday 1st January 17:15
TVRees said:
I suggest that you buy a rust free Mk 2.5 sport.
Apparently the 2.5s are the most prone to rust on the inner chassis rails. I always go for the Mk2 1.8 iS with the diff.
Having had a few, when looking at one, I'd be prepared to take off the undertray and have a good feel around the chassis rails before parting with cash - these are a worse problem than the sills which are easy enough to get to.
I started searching last week. Literally every Mk2 I've seen advertised so far has a record of rust issues in the MOT history, which is making me rather nervous. I don't mind anything superficial. For that matter I wouldn't mind something that's 12 months away from the scrapyard providing it was priced appropriately, but they seem tricky to find.
Starting to wonder if I should abandon the MX-5 plans and use the money I'll save to pay for the added wear and tear of using the TVR on the autosolos.
Starting to wonder if I should abandon the MX-5 plans and use the money I'll save to pay for the added wear and tear of using the TVR on the autosolos.
Edited by Chris71 on Wednesday 9th January 12:35
Chainsaw Rebuild said:
I paid £3000 for replacement rails, arches, a new roof and rust proofing. So it can all be fixed for not too much money.
Not much money in the scheme of things, but £3k is more than the value of most Mk2 / 2.5s - easily 3 x the car's value.If it's a keeper, fine, but if not, that's a waste of three grand, imo and regardless of anything else, it doesn't sound like the OP is in a position to fling 3k at one.
Edited by TheJimi on Wednesday 9th January 15:45
TheJimi said:
Not much money in the scheme of things, but £3k is more than the value of most Mk2 / 2.5s - easily 3 x the car's value.
If it's a keeper, fine, but if not, that's a waste of three grand, imo and regardless of anything else, it doesn't sound like the OP is in a position to fling 3k at one.
Fair point, but £3k was for everything including the mohair roof. If it's just the arches that need doing it will be much less. Also imo they are rising in value so the longer op keeps it the more money you "get back".If it's a keeper, fine, but if not, that's a waste of three grand, imo and regardless of anything else, it doesn't sound like the OP is in a position to fling 3k at one.
Edited by TheJimi on Wednesday 9th January 15:45
Not an expert but do have a recently acquired Mk2 1.8iS and have had it looked at by MX5 Works in Leighton Buzzard. Turns out I was lucky as it was an impulse buy and didn’t really check it as much as I should have. He’s condemning mk2s for rust pretty much weekly but mine is ok thankfully.
There’s plenty of surface grot underneath but the sills are good, arches are perfect and the chassis legs were salvageable and shouldn’t need doing again. It was £80 per side to have them treated and recoated. If they’re shot then it’s thousands and not worth doing.
I guess what I’m saying is that relatively rust free cars do exist. The 1.8iS and related special editions (ours is a Jasper Conran) are the ones to have and have the torsen LSD.
There’s plenty of surface grot underneath but the sills are good, arches are perfect and the chassis legs were salvageable and shouldn’t need doing again. It was £80 per side to have them treated and recoated. If they’re shot then it’s thousands and not worth doing.
I guess what I’m saying is that relatively rust free cars do exist. The 1.8iS and related special editions (ours is a Jasper Conran) are the ones to have and have the torsen LSD.
mackie1 said:
Not an expert but do have a recently acquired Mk2 1.8iS and have had it looked at by MX5 Works in Leighton Buzzard. Turns out I was lucky as it was an impulse buy and didn’t really check it as much as I should have. He’s condemning mk2s for rust pretty much weekly but mine is ok thankfully.
There’s plenty of surface grot underneath but the sills are good, arches are perfect and the chassis legs were salvageable and shouldn’t need doing again. It was £80 per side to have them treated and recoated. If they’re shot then it’s thousands and not worth doing.
I guess what I’m saying is that relatively rust free cars do exist. The 1.8iS and related special editions (ours is a Jasper Conran) are the ones to have and have the torsen LSD.
The chassis rail repairs are about £720 for one side and £600 for the other side I recall, - which in order to save an appreciating car isn't too bad really....There’s plenty of surface grot underneath but the sills are good, arches are perfect and the chassis legs were salvageable and shouldn’t need doing again. It was £80 per side to have them treated and recoated. If they’re shot then it’s thousands and not worth doing.
I guess what I’m saying is that relatively rust free cars do exist. The 1.8iS and related special editions (ours is a Jasper Conran) are the ones to have and have the torsen LSD.
TheJimi said:
Mk2s appreciating? Really?
I was wondering that.I actually think the Mk2 is a nicer car to drive in standard form, based on the ones I test drove before, but the relative values make me wonder if I'd be better off, in the long run, spending more money on another Mk1 - perhaps one that needs some work doing. That said, I'm a firm believer in the 'trickle down' effect - as with E30 and E36 BMWs, I suspect there will come a point where people object to the premium being asked for Mk1s and start moving to Mk2s to some extent. Who knows.
Just for balance –
The 1998 UK Mk2 that I picked up in 2009 had spent it’s life in West Sussex. I then took it back home to the West coast of Scotland where it lived with me for 6 years, only very occasionally seeing winter / salty road use. It had no rust issues, it also wasn’t treated with an aftermarket rust proofing agent.
My MOT guy is a fussy, picky sod, and the car passed every year, without so much as a sniff of an advisory.
I then sold it to my best mate in 2014, who used it in all weathers, every day. It was only then, that rust started to become an issue.
The 1998 UK Mk2 that I picked up in 2009 had spent it’s life in West Sussex. I then took it back home to the West coast of Scotland where it lived with me for 6 years, only very occasionally seeing winter / salty road use. It had no rust issues, it also wasn’t treated with an aftermarket rust proofing agent.
My MOT guy is a fussy, picky sod, and the car passed every year, without so much as a sniff of an advisory.
I then sold it to my best mate in 2014, who used it in all weathers, every day. It was only then, that rust started to become an issue.
I've. Got a mk1 that's been fully restored so that's ok. I did view a couple of mk2 but only didn't buy as the mk1 came up and was my first choice.
I'm quite prepared to believe the mk2 will appreciate so I guess tracking down a small maybe s e welder who won't rip you off is an answer. Fortunately for me I have one who did everything.
I'm quite prepared to believe the mk2 will appreciate so I guess tracking down a small maybe s e welder who won't rip you off is an answer. Fortunately for me I have one who did everything.
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