Best base for a low-budget track car
Discussion
So, it's all change in the household when it comes to cars. My 206 GTi track car and 330 coupe are making way for a hybrid, which leaves me needing something to tinker with and use on track in future.
I used an ex-partner's mk2 1.8iS a fair few years back, which makes me fairly confident that I'd be happy. I'm also probably not going to be buying until Sep/Oct which, assuming the current heatwave doesn't last until the end of days, should mean that prices are a bit more realistic.
Realistically I don't want to shell out more than £1500 for a base, or I'll aim to pay £2500 for a car that has already had some decent prep done.
Unless otherwise told, I don't think I want a mk1. I'm currently debating between Mk2/2.5, and have read so many minor differences that my head is starting to spin...
Ideally I'd like one less prone to rust (although I'd take one which has been welded), but not necessarily pretty. I'd much prefer a LSD, but it looks like almost all of the 1.8 cars have them. I've read about things like VVT and other minutiae that make the 2.5 a better base, but there are so many variants/specials that it makes it quite hard to work out which cars are viable.
Yours, confusedly.
I used an ex-partner's mk2 1.8iS a fair few years back, which makes me fairly confident that I'd be happy. I'm also probably not going to be buying until Sep/Oct which, assuming the current heatwave doesn't last until the end of days, should mean that prices are a bit more realistic.
Realistically I don't want to shell out more than £1500 for a base, or I'll aim to pay £2500 for a car that has already had some decent prep done.
Unless otherwise told, I don't think I want a mk1. I'm currently debating between Mk2/2.5, and have read so many minor differences that my head is starting to spin...
Ideally I'd like one less prone to rust (although I'd take one which has been welded), but not necessarily pretty. I'd much prefer a LSD, but it looks like almost all of the 1.8 cars have them. I've read about things like VVT and other minutiae that make the 2.5 a better base, but there are so many variants/specials that it makes it quite hard to work out which cars are viable.
Yours, confusedly.
MX-5 Lazza said:
My Mk2.5 1.8 Sport is almost for sale, completely rust free and with some useful track mods already done - suspension, oil cooler, bigger alloy rad etc. I also have a set of 15s with Yoko A048s to go with it!
Not sure of price yet. Interested?
There are a lot of variables in there. Feel free to PM me.Not sure of price yet. Interested?
Not supercharged now. The SC died a couple of years ago. Otherwise it’s pretty much the same car.
Larini Sports cat
Larini Sports midpipe
Racing Beat back box
GAZ Gold Pro with 400/300 lb/ft springs
FM Twincooler (aluminium coolant rad with oil cooler built in down one side - very effective).
Oil filter relocated.
Oil temp gauge.
Mk3 MX5 heated leather seats
Stoptech front pads, EBC Yellowstuff rear pads. Sport brakes so no need to uograde.
17” OZ Racing Superturissmo with 205/50/15 Toyo T1R (which I use on the road)
15” Rota Circuit 10 with 195/59/15 Yoko A048
Body & chassis is completely rust free. Never been repaired.
Probably other stuff I’ve forgotten.
Larini Sports cat
Larini Sports midpipe
Racing Beat back box
GAZ Gold Pro with 400/300 lb/ft springs
FM Twincooler (aluminium coolant rad with oil cooler built in down one side - very effective).
Oil filter relocated.
Oil temp gauge.
Mk3 MX5 heated leather seats
Stoptech front pads, EBC Yellowstuff rear pads. Sport brakes so no need to uograde.
17” OZ Racing Superturissmo with 205/50/15 Toyo T1R (which I use on the road)
15” Rota Circuit 10 with 195/59/15 Yoko A048
Body & chassis is completely rust free. Never been repaired.
Probably other stuff I’ve forgotten.
The NBFL(mk2.5) Sport models have bigger front brakes & Torsen LSD as std if that helps.
Take a really good look at the front chassis legs as if they’re rotted it takes a specialist repair to fix. Rotten sills need to be checked too. Nothing is unfixable though.
It’s better to buy one that someone else has spent the cash on though.
Take a really good look at the front chassis legs as if they’re rotted it takes a specialist repair to fix. Rotten sills need to be checked too. Nothing is unfixable though.
It’s better to buy one that someone else has spent the cash on though.
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