Checking for rust ?
Discussion
Sold my Merc CLS and am deferring buying another, more expensive car for a while, so considering a cheap MX5 as its an itch I have never scratched.
I am fairly handy with the spanners and can weld, but want to avoid it, is there a sure fire way to avoid terminally rusty MX5's ? I know if there is any rust on the outside it will be worse on the inside, watched a Carthrottle video where he had two weeks of rust repairs and I am not into doing, or paying for that.
Only want to spend a couple of grand so that puts me slap bang in rust bucket territory so can you tell with a torch and getting underneath if its beyond redemption ?
I am fairly handy with the spanners and can weld, but want to avoid it, is there a sure fire way to avoid terminally rusty MX5's ? I know if there is any rust on the outside it will be worse on the inside, watched a Carthrottle video where he had two weeks of rust repairs and I am not into doing, or paying for that.
Only want to spend a couple of grand so that puts me slap bang in rust bucket territory so can you tell with a torch and getting underneath if its beyond redemption ?
Fairly easy to tell.
The sills rust from the inside out by the rear wheel arch, thanks to a truly terrible drain hole design, so if there's even a hint of rust around the sills, they're already f*****d.
On mk2s the chassis legs are known for going swiss cheese, and this is beyond economical repair really...you can inspect them partially in the engine bay, otherwise it's a case of getting the car on ramps and poking about.
Your best bet will be finding one thats had all the rust recently sorted...the market is basically divided between those that need rust repairs, and those that have had it.
Friend of mine is selling an immaculate grey mk2 in herts if you want the details...it's actually not rusty! He'd probably take 2k, as he's leaving for australia in a couple weeks.
The sills rust from the inside out by the rear wheel arch, thanks to a truly terrible drain hole design, so if there's even a hint of rust around the sills, they're already f*****d.
On mk2s the chassis legs are known for going swiss cheese, and this is beyond economical repair really...you can inspect them partially in the engine bay, otherwise it's a case of getting the car on ramps and poking about.
Your best bet will be finding one thats had all the rust recently sorted...the market is basically divided between those that need rust repairs, and those that have had it.
Friend of mine is selling an immaculate grey mk2 in herts if you want the details...it's actually not rusty! He'd probably take 2k, as he's leaving for australia in a couple weeks.
That's pretty much it really, they're either repaired or knackered in my experience. There are repair panels for the front chassis legs but it's an engine out job to fit them. Such a shame that such a brilliant little car is afflicted so badly, I wouldn't buy another mk1 or 2 unless it had already had extensive repair work done.
Possibly consider mk3 mr2 or bmw z3/4 as not quite as good but less rusty alternative?
Possibly consider mk3 mr2 or bmw z3/4 as not quite as good but less rusty alternative?
Darkslider said:
That's pretty much it really, they're either repaired or knackered in my experience. There are repair panels for the front chassis legs but it's an engine out job to fit them. Such a shame that such a brilliant little car is afflicted so badly, I wouldn't buy another mk1 or 2 unless it had already had extensive repair work done.
Possibly consider mk3 mr2 or bmw z3/4 as not quite as good but less rusty alternative?
Sure the MR2 is good but just cant get with the looks, like a startled Frog, Z3 is a possibility.Possibly consider mk3 mr2 or bmw z3/4 as not quite as good but less rusty alternative?
Or just get a loan and get a MK3, assume they are at least not too frilly ?
God there is some s
t out there,
Look at this, two and a half grand and the rust is bubbling through,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX-5-1-8i-Sport/1...
Correct me if I am ruined but that is going to be utterly rotten ?
t out there,Look at this, two and a half grand and the rust is bubbling through,
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mazda-MX-5-1-8i-Sport/1...
Correct me if I am ruined but that is going to be utterly rotten ?
Yeah if you can see rust bubbles it's already too far gone unless you want to get sills sorted etc.
This is my mate's one. It's rust free, as verified by my own eyeballs.
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
This is my mate's one. It's rust free, as verified by my own eyeballs.
https://www.pistonheads.com/classifieds/used-cars/...
I bought a 1990 Mk1 with no rust and no previous repair a couple of months ago for £1100. It has since cost me £200 in getting the steering rack gaiters replaced for MOT and will cost me another £170 tomorrow to get the ditchfinder tyres replaced. I don't expect it to cost me anything more any time soon.
Tip: look on Gumtree, Ebay and Facebook groups rather than Autotrader or ripoff dealers and be prepared to look at a lot of rusty ones, there are so many MX5s around the chances of finding a good one are still decent in my experience.
Tip: look on Gumtree, Ebay and Facebook groups rather than Autotrader or ripoff dealers and be prepared to look at a lot of rusty ones, there are so many MX5s around the chances of finding a good one are still decent in my experience.
I think this is a good time to buy as Winter is on the way, keep an eye on this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-Mazda-MX5-MK3-5-Sp...
If it is a good one that's a £7k car all day long, 30k miles, must be like new. Should have the slightly better engine in it on that plate/year. Get it properly wax injected and enjoy it as it is.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-Mazda-MX5-MK3-5-Sp...
If it is a good one that's a £7k car all day long, 30k miles, must be like new. Should have the slightly better engine in it on that plate/year. Get it properly wax injected and enjoy it as it is.
Parts within a car are designed for circa 150,000 miles or ten years whichever is reached first. Mine is now 11 years old and things are starting to fall apart, new coolant hoses and a new radiator was the last thing I had to buy. The underside doesn't look too bad still, flaky surface rust that if I could be bothered would do well to receive a proper underseal but it's not too bad really. I'm thinking of getting something completely different next year though as I'm sick of not having a car for a few days every few months now. Having said that I would love to supercharge it so still in two minds what to do
Edited by SmilerFTM on Saturday 28th October 09:49
I just bought an immaculate 99 mk2 for 1500. Yup it will still need 1k welding over next 4 years but so what? Still not a write off and I don't plan to sell
Chassis rails aren't engine out job, sils and wings are plentiful.
As mentioned it takes time and a bit of luck to find a good one, but they are there.
Chassis rails aren't engine out job, sils and wings are plentiful.
As mentioned it takes time and a bit of luck to find a good one, but they are there.
Evoluzione said:
I think this is a good time to buy as Winter is on the way, keep an eye on this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-Mazda-MX5-MK3-5-Sp...
If it is a good one that's a £7k car all day long, 30k miles, must be like new. Should have the slightly better engine in it on that plate/year. Get it properly wax injected and enjoy it as it is.
I have three grand put to one side, I could go mad and get a loan but got an extension planned (waiting for the quotes to come back) so cant really commit to more spending, and if I were getting a loan I would be looking at spending 15 grand really.https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2009-Mazda-MX5-MK3-5-Sp...
If it is a good one that's a £7k car all day long, 30k miles, must be like new. Should have the slightly better engine in it on that plate/year. Get it properly wax injected and enjoy it as it is.
Just after something fun, instead of driving our C1, which is fine to be honest but may as well get something a bit more interested, not bothered about going all that fast, kind of thinking a Z4 might be safer bet in the bargain basement < 3 grand price range, like Darkslider suggested, maybe just go for the 2.0, prob not as fun as an MX5 but should be ok.
This one is useable and from a specialist for £2k: http://www.goodwoodsportscars.co.uk/gallery_727493...
j4ckos mate said:
93 aero
Funny you should say that, I have a 91 Eunos Roadster that only came into the UK in 2015 and has no rust,but is now tucked up for the winter (and a rear crank seal & new clutch), coincidentally bought from Goodwood who were quoted in the post before.My daily driver is a 2008 Saab 9-3 Aero wagon and I love it!
Lovely combination of 2 completely different cars.
The issue of rust on a Mk1 is often over talked. Yes the sills are an issue and yes a bubble on the outside masks more on the inside. However the repairs are in the region of £200-£250, or if you can do the work yourself £35 per panel per side......so not a big job. If it needs 4 new tyres I would argue that these would cost as much to replace and yet this is not discussed as an issue to walk away from a car.
On a Mk1 for rust, indeed look at the rear sills from the rear wheel forward. Howev get on the ground and look at the same area from underside and the back of the sills. If these are rusting hthen yet it is a problem, if not, then likely just a repair patch will be fine. The rear arches also need to be looked at as the rust can/does go up the arch. Again if solid then the car is likely to be OK, if rusty.....then I a bigger issue. I would also look in the boot under the carpet and around the battery area and the front of the sills by the front wheel as well.
Surface rust on bolts will be common, and as such they can fight you when attempting repairs, but the bills are genuinely low and would be cheaper than Z4 and TT repairs.
Mk2 rust is as per above but also the front chassis legs. To be onset the only reliable way I have found is to take a front wheel off and the arch liner out to inspect them. It is a pain, but again it will save you making a mistake.
The community is good, always local people to you willing to help as well.
On a Mk1 for rust, indeed look at the rear sills from the rear wheel forward. Howev get on the ground and look at the same area from underside and the back of the sills. If these are rusting hthen yet it is a problem, if not, then likely just a repair patch will be fine. The rear arches also need to be looked at as the rust can/does go up the arch. Again if solid then the car is likely to be OK, if rusty.....then I a bigger issue. I would also look in the boot under the carpet and around the battery area and the front of the sills by the front wheel as well.
Surface rust on bolts will be common, and as such they can fight you when attempting repairs, but the bills are genuinely low and would be cheaper than Z4 and TT repairs.
Mk2 rust is as per above but also the front chassis legs. To be onset the only reliable way I have found is to take a front wheel off and the arch liner out to inspect them. It is a pain, but again it will save you making a mistake.
The community is good, always local people to you willing to help as well.
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