Which MX5 for Road and Track ?
Discussion
I am considering an MX5 that I can drive on the road and also do a few mods (track roll bar, suspension, brakes etc) so I can use it on track days.
Looking through loads of info, I am a little confused as to which model is the best option.
It seems I can pick up either a Mk 1, 2 or 3 within my budget of up to £3k, but ideally nearer £2k
As mentioned earlier, I want to use it as a daily (third car) and for trackdays.
Don't want to spend too much and want one that is also cheap to maintain, particularly with the maintenance required for tracking.
Which would be the best model considering:
1) It not rusting away beneath me, at least if undersealed etc ?
2) Be the most fun to drive and track ?
3) Be the best for everyday road driving ?
4) Cheapest to run and maintain - unless all three are roughly the same ?
I like the classic look of the Mk 1 but they are going up in price and finding one that has not suffered from rust is difficult within budget.
Looking at 1.8 import cars but would an import 1.6 make an equally good track car or too underpowered ?
The Mk 2 seems to be the vest value from a purchase perspective but the rust worries me on these which seems to be the worst of the three.
If I find a Mk 2 without any rust, it it just inevitable that eventually it will rust even if Dinitroled etc ?
Early Mk 3 models are coming down in price now and there are a few within reach.
Would a Mk 3 make a good track car though ?
Is it as nimble and agile (despite being heavier) as the Mk1 and 2 and can you switch off the DSC on a first gen 2.0 Sport Mk 3, which is what my budget gets me ?
As you can see from the above, what is the best option for fun and long term ownership ?
Looking through loads of info, I am a little confused as to which model is the best option.
It seems I can pick up either a Mk 1, 2 or 3 within my budget of up to £3k, but ideally nearer £2k
As mentioned earlier, I want to use it as a daily (third car) and for trackdays.
Don't want to spend too much and want one that is also cheap to maintain, particularly with the maintenance required for tracking.
Which would be the best model considering:
1) It not rusting away beneath me, at least if undersealed etc ?
2) Be the most fun to drive and track ?
3) Be the best for everyday road driving ?
4) Cheapest to run and maintain - unless all three are roughly the same ?
I like the classic look of the Mk 1 but they are going up in price and finding one that has not suffered from rust is difficult within budget.
Looking at 1.8 import cars but would an import 1.6 make an equally good track car or too underpowered ?
The Mk 2 seems to be the vest value from a purchase perspective but the rust worries me on these which seems to be the worst of the three.
If I find a Mk 2 without any rust, it it just inevitable that eventually it will rust even if Dinitroled etc ?
Early Mk 3 models are coming down in price now and there are a few within reach.
Would a Mk 3 make a good track car though ?
Is it as nimble and agile (despite being heavier) as the Mk1 and 2 and can you switch off the DSC on a first gen 2.0 Sport Mk 3, which is what my budget gets me ?
As you can see from the above, what is the best option for fun and long term ownership ?
Edited by Spy on Tuesday 24th October 12:41
I would go for a Mk3, but you are going to have to stretch the budget a little bit.
A Mk3 Sport 2.0 is the car of choice and would be my recommendation for track use, as these have an LSD, 6 speed gearbox, Bilstein suspension and a nicer interior. You can pick up a sub 70k mile one of these for circa £4000, but they are not quite at the 3k mark just yet, give it time though!
I have had a Mk1 on the road and now have a Mk3, along with a Mk1 race car. Although the racer car is excellent fun, you wouldn't want to drive it on the road, and the road going Mk1 is not as pleasant to drive daily as the Mk3 is. The MK3 is more substantial, more comfortable, has more features such as Bose and Heated seats. It also feels much safer, the roof doesn't leak and goes down in 2 seconds, much more of a 'modern' car. I just took it to the Ring and back in total comfort, it performed brilliantly on the way there and being thrashed around the track.
Yes you can turn the DSC fully off in the Mk3.
If you do go Mk1, the 1.6 is the chosen car for track use, all the race series use these. Incredibly strong little engines, seem more eager to rev than the 1.8. Just make sure the car is set up properly with some decent suspension, tracking, tyres, brakes, etc. A well driven Mk1 will embarrass many much bigger cars on trackdays so don't worry about power. You can always add a turbo at a later date. It is probably worth buying one that has been owned by an enthusiast who has had the car undersealed etc, many will already have some modifications, as adding mods to a car gets expensive very quickly depending how far you go.
I haven't had a Mk2, many of these are the lower powered 90bhp which are generally avoided, but a 1.8 Mk2 is very similar to a Mk1, if you can find a solid one I'm sure it would be a good base car.
The price gap between a good Mk1 and an early Mk3 is getting smaller and smaller, I would definitely go Mk3 for a combination of regular use and track use (a track only Mk1 is great fun but much more 'raw' on the road) I bought my Mk3 for sub 4k and have added a mod to it every month or so for the past year, and it is almost the track weapon / ring tool I wanted it to be in the first place.
Any questions just ask cheers
A Mk3 Sport 2.0 is the car of choice and would be my recommendation for track use, as these have an LSD, 6 speed gearbox, Bilstein suspension and a nicer interior. You can pick up a sub 70k mile one of these for circa £4000, but they are not quite at the 3k mark just yet, give it time though!
I have had a Mk1 on the road and now have a Mk3, along with a Mk1 race car. Although the racer car is excellent fun, you wouldn't want to drive it on the road, and the road going Mk1 is not as pleasant to drive daily as the Mk3 is. The MK3 is more substantial, more comfortable, has more features such as Bose and Heated seats. It also feels much safer, the roof doesn't leak and goes down in 2 seconds, much more of a 'modern' car. I just took it to the Ring and back in total comfort, it performed brilliantly on the way there and being thrashed around the track.
Yes you can turn the DSC fully off in the Mk3.
If you do go Mk1, the 1.6 is the chosen car for track use, all the race series use these. Incredibly strong little engines, seem more eager to rev than the 1.8. Just make sure the car is set up properly with some decent suspension, tracking, tyres, brakes, etc. A well driven Mk1 will embarrass many much bigger cars on trackdays so don't worry about power. You can always add a turbo at a later date. It is probably worth buying one that has been owned by an enthusiast who has had the car undersealed etc, many will already have some modifications, as adding mods to a car gets expensive very quickly depending how far you go.
I haven't had a Mk2, many of these are the lower powered 90bhp which are generally avoided, but a 1.8 Mk2 is very similar to a Mk1, if you can find a solid one I'm sure it would be a good base car.
The price gap between a good Mk1 and an early Mk3 is getting smaller and smaller, I would definitely go Mk3 for a combination of regular use and track use (a track only Mk1 is great fun but much more 'raw' on the road) I bought my Mk3 for sub 4k and have added a mod to it every month or so for the past year, and it is almost the track weapon / ring tool I wanted it to be in the first place.
Any questions just ask cheers
Spy said:
The Mk 2 seems to be the vest value from a purchase perspective but the rust worries me on these which seems to be the worst of the three.
If I find a Mk 2 without any rust, it it just inevitable that eventually it will rust even if Dinitroled etc ?
Rust is an issue both on the sills and critically the inner chassis rails either side of the engine on a mk2 but this can be visually inspected fairly easily (remove the plastic undertray and get underneath).If I find a Mk 2 without any rust, it it just inevitable that eventually it will rust even if Dinitroled etc ?
The inner chassis rails are supposedly worse on a mk2.5 than the original mk2.
After careful consideration, I went for a mk2 1.8iS - 140bhp (twice). 97-99 is the optimum year. The main reason for this is the presence of the Torsen LSD.
Get a proper roll bar, some sparco sprint v seats and harnesses and a set of AD08R tyres and you will hustle many a more expensive machine on track.....
I'd budget ~£900 for the car ~£300 for seats and belts, ~£250 for roll bar and ~£400 for tyres....
If it goes wrong, then you can part the bits out and get your money back pretty easily.
MK1/2/2.5 are abundant with tuning choices as underneath they are pretty similar & some bits are interchangeable.
I had a ITB'd MK1 last year which was good fun on track & quick to get the hang of. This year I've got a SC MK2.5 & has taken me a little longer to master but has turned into a real weapon- I came 3rd out of 60 in the Classic Marques Speed Championship beating all sorts of exotic machinery. Have just discovered it has the rusty sill issue but am going to fix it as in the grand scheme if things, it's not desperate. These guys comee highly recommended-
http://www.themx5restorer.co.uk/services/welding-r...
I had a ITB'd MK1 last year which was good fun on track & quick to get the hang of. This year I've got a SC MK2.5 & has taken me a little longer to master but has turned into a real weapon- I came 3rd out of 60 in the Classic Marques Speed Championship beating all sorts of exotic machinery. Have just discovered it has the rusty sill issue but am going to fix it as in the grand scheme if things, it's not desperate. These guys comee highly recommended-
http://www.themx5restorer.co.uk/services/welding-r...
This is exactly my dilemma, I've been watching mk3s for a while, in part due to Accelebrates great thread. Was previously looking at mk2s but everything I see has rust. I'm also tempted by a Boxster, but sensible me says keep the budget low, do a few track days and if more serious buy Boxster (for the wife obvs) if I need to upgrade.
Great advice on here, thanks. Pretty much waiting for dead of winter to pick a mk3 (which will be garaged if I can shift some kids/man toys).
Great advice on here, thanks. Pretty much waiting for dead of winter to pick a mk3 (which will be garaged if I can shift some kids/man toys).
toastyhamster said:
Great advice on here, thanks. Pretty much waiting for dead of winter to pick a mk3 (which will be garaged if I can shift some kids/man toys).
Problem I find with buying cars like these in winter is that there is less choice.Most people keep them in the garage until spring arrives to get a better price
Spy said:
toastyhamster said:
Great advice on here, thanks. Pretty much waiting for dead of winter to pick a mk3 (which will be garaged if I can shift some kids/man toys).
Problem I find with buying cars like these in winter is that there is less choice.Most people keep them in the garage until spring arrives to get a better price
Talking of the Mk 4, cracking lease deal on its brother, the Abarth Spider, a touch over £5k for two years motoring including road tax: http://www.researchgarage.co.uk/abarth/new-car-off...
Yes, just not as bad as the earlier models. One of the main issues always has been that they never did any wax injection.
Up until a certain year the NC had a problem with the door window divider rubbing against the door skin causing rust there, other areas are where wing meets bumper and cill, cills and rear arches, just to a much lesser degree.
All of the rear suspension (arms, subframe, even diff) rust, although it looks bad is not a serious issue at the moment as the steel is very thick, may be in years to come.
Look here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MX5NCRost/
It's fair to say he seems to have found the worst example he could, but it gives you an idea of what to look out for when viewing.
Up until a certain year the NC had a problem with the door window divider rubbing against the door skin causing rust there, other areas are where wing meets bumper and cill, cills and rear arches, just to a much lesser degree.
All of the rear suspension (arms, subframe, even diff) rust, although it looks bad is not a serious issue at the moment as the steel is very thick, may be in years to come.
Look here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/MX5NCRost/
It's fair to say he seems to have found the worst example he could, but it gives you an idea of what to look out for when viewing.
DanGPR said:
I got my 2006 2.0 Sport for...
2450 quid!
it's a little bit rough around the edges, but it's a great car for the money. I've put Meister R CRD coilovers on it and am looking into a manifold and remap for an extra 20+ bhp.
Nice price. Got my eye on a mk3 for 2750 that's local, but it's got 120k on it, is that considered mega mileage - should I be looking to spend a little more for something in the 60k+ mileage range? It won't be a daily so won't don't imagine I'd be doing more than a few k a year and at this price I'll have spare cash for any issues.2450 quid!
it's a little bit rough around the edges, but it's a great car for the money. I've put Meister R CRD coilovers on it and am looking into a manifold and remap for an extra 20+ bhp.
OctyScout said:
We're thinking uprated fluid, braded hoses, better pads, better discs.
You don't need better discs unless the stock ones are worn. Plenty of braking power with upgraded pads and fluid. Ideally go for a set of coilovers (meister, bc etc.) and a sticky set of tyres and it will be proper fun.If you get bored of the power you can always go the manifold and remap route.
Enjoy!
I managed to get a MK3 2.0 sport on 75k with a removable hard top for £2750.
When I look most have been for sale for ages, I would ignore the price and make some cheeky offers.
Its all good apart from a noisy 4th gear.
But it doesn't matter as i'm going to turn it into a race car after driving it until the MOT runs out in August next year,.
The engines are pretty robust as long as you keep an eye on the oil. On old low mileage cars the piston rings don't seal properly, so when you get it and give it some beans it''ll loose some oil until they seal again. Mine uses a bit of oil.
When I look most have been for sale for ages, I would ignore the price and make some cheeky offers.
Its all good apart from a noisy 4th gear.
But it doesn't matter as i'm going to turn it into a race car after driving it until the MOT runs out in August next year,.
The engines are pretty robust as long as you keep an eye on the oil. On old low mileage cars the piston rings don't seal properly, so when you get it and give it some beans it''ll loose some oil until they seal again. Mine uses a bit of oil.
kostas_miata said:
You don't need better discs unless the stock ones are worn. Plenty of braking power with upgraded pads and fluid. Ideally go for a set of coilovers (meister, bc etc.) and a sticky set of tyres and it will be proper fun.
If you get bored of the power you can always go the manifold and remap route.
Enjoy!
Brilliant, thanks... what is the perceived wisdom on pads and fluids for fast road and track use? Any specific makes to go for?If you get bored of the power you can always go the manifold and remap route.
Enjoy!
Are the coilovers necessary on a sport with the Bilsteins?
What sort of power would a manifold and map make?
cheers...
Roddisons Mototsport is who you want to contact for pads - Known as Rodders Pads within MX5 circles. Awesome bite and zero fade. Brake fluid go for any high performance DOT 4. I use the Super Blue stuff that's not now blue. You can buy it in Euro Car Parts.
Standard suspension is OK but a bit light and wallowy even on the Billies. Certainly fine to get you started though. Pick up a set of RX8 230bhp Anti Roll Bars and fit those with some new drop links. Well worth a total outlay of circa £60.
Do watch for rust though. I own two 2006 2.0 Sports. My grey one had a passenger sill patch welded on for the MOT this year. My black one is so far gone it's worth more in bits and I'm breaking it over the winter.
Standard suspension is OK but a bit light and wallowy even on the Billies. Certainly fine to get you started though. Pick up a set of RX8 230bhp Anti Roll Bars and fit those with some new drop links. Well worth a total outlay of circa £60.
Do watch for rust though. I own two 2006 2.0 Sports. My grey one had a passenger sill patch welded on for the MOT this year. My black one is so far gone it's worth more in bits and I'm breaking it over the winter.
OctyScout said:
Brilliant, thanks... what is the perceived wisdom on pads and fluids for fast road and track use? Any specific makes to go for?
Are the coilovers necessary on a sport with the Bilsteins?
What sort of power would a manifold and map make?
cheers...
Rodders Pads or EBC Yellow Stuff are the most used ones. I'm running the EBC ones and perform great on track with not much compromise on the road.Are the coilovers necessary on a sport with the Bilsteins?
What sort of power would a manifold and map make?
cheers...
Coilovers are certainly not necessary, but the stock suspension does hold back the car a lot. If you go for a drive with NC with Meister or BC coilovers (ohlins too expensive) you'll be immediately sold. That's how I got mine!
With an I.L. Motorsport or Racing Beat manifold and a remap you should be able to see 185hp easily.
My advise is do a track day with the car stock to get a feel for it and then you decide on mods based on how you felt the car behaved for your taste.
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