Which MX5 to buy? @ Year 2010 up

[Travellervet]

G'day all MX5 PistonHeads,

Thanks for having me part of the team. I have some basic questions about purchasing a MX5. If anyone wants to steer me in the right direction - I'd be grateful. When I lived in OzI was part of the MX5 club and did some rallies and navigated with my partner. I was never keen on the car, initially - but then after experiencing its capabilities, I realise what a fun little car it is. Also, it seems to be quite reliable and not a difficult car to repair or work on. Thus, as I am now living in the UK, I was thinking of buying one. However, the models that are here are different than Oz and I'm not exactly sure what model I should be looking at or not looking at. Below, I'm writing what I need the car to do:

1) reliable enough to take through Europe (mainly France and Spain) and back yearly.
2) used as daily vehicle
3) not looking at doing tour racing
4) need to fit a luggage rack
5) will need to not be expensive to insure or maintain - i have an Oz license, will change over
6) low miles (what is good low and what is on cusp of problem low)
a) I see some cars that are 2008 or 2009 with low miles - but I'm concerned about age
b) some cars have only 20K or 30K and are 2010 models - how can the miles be so low?
7) low age - if miles are low, but age is high - what issues are there - of course older parts and less bells and whistles
8) want to spend no more than 6K
9) what type of servicing/maintenance costs would I be looking at if I bought a car with 30K vs 60K
10) I saw two cars one: 2010 with @30K and another 2011 with about 60K - is it just not smart to get the 60K car (I liked the colour better)
11) what model is a good model from the 2010 year up
12) I'm looking only at 2010, as my limited knowledge of mechanics says its always best to get a second hand car less than 5 years age - can't afford a MX5 at 5 years for the price range I want
13) Other thoughts advice?

Thanks PetrolHdz! All thoughts welcome. If I don't decide on this - then what - a MX8, a soccer mom car - noooooooooo!

Cheers,
FT

[VladD]

I've been using my 23 year old Mk1 Eunos as a daily driver for the last 12 months. It has had nothing go wrong in that time. I wouldn't get too hung up on age. The biggest problem with Mk1s and Mk2s is rust, especially the Mk2 in the chassis rails. That could be a reason to avoid them, but if you find a good rust free car, then you should be fine. Mk1s are starting to appreciate in value, so could be worth looking at.

Mechanically they have a reputation for reliability and cheap parts, so I wouldn't worry too much there.

Insurance will be pretty cheap, especially if you get an older car and insure it on a classic policy.

I can't really help you on the newer stuff as I've not been in one. Have a look at the MX5 owners club site, there's probably lots of useful info there.

Edited by VladD on Wednesday 19th April 11:31

[AmiableChimp]

As you come from Oz, the concept of rust might be a bit alien to you.

Basically, when buying an MX5, always buy on condition of the body primarily.

Don't assume as the Mk3/3.5 is newer then it won't have rust issues - Mazda are notorious for scrimping on the factory underseal and even relatively newish cars are showing initial signs of rust.

You need to ask yourself, do you want a 1.8 or a 2.0 (bearing in mind it may affect insurance), also do you want a soft top or a powered retractable hardtop?

If I was going to replace my 1991 Eunos with a more modern MX5 then it would be something like a 2010-on 2.0 Sport with a powered roof in dark grey colour. But I much prefer the character of the older car, it is much more "raw" and enjoyable - saying that, mine is a toy and is lucky to do 150 miles per year.

[Travellervet]

VladD said:

I've been using my 23 year old Mk1 Eunos as a daily driver for the last 12 months. It has had nothing go wrong in that time. I wouldn't get too hung up on age. The biggest problem with Mk1s and Mk2s is rust, especially the Mk2 in the chassis rails. That could be a reason to avoid them, but if you find a good rust free car, then you should be fine. Mk1s are starting to appreciate in value, so could be worth looking at.

Mechanically they have a reputation for reliability and cheap parts, so I wouldn't worry too much there.

Insurance will be pretty cheap, especially if you get an older car and insure it on a classic policy.

I can't really help you on the newer stuff as I've not been in one. Have a look at the MX5 owners club site, there's probably lots of useful info there.

Edited by VladD on Wednesday 19th April 11:31

Thank you. I wasn't sure about the MK1 to the MK3. I do know rust is an issues. I was recommended to look at LTDS as they had a few more mod cons. I appreciate your thoughts and effort. Thank you so much.

[Travellervet]

AmiableChimp said:

As you come from Oz, the concept of rust might be a bit alien to you.

Basically, when buying an MX5, always buy on condition of the body primarily.

Don't assume as the Mk3/3.5 is newer then it won't have rust issues - Mazda are notorious for scrimping on the factory underseal and even relatively newish cars are showing initial signs of rust.

You need to ask yourself, do you want a 1.8 or a 2.0 (bearing in mind it may affect insurance), also do you want a soft top or a powered retractable hardtop?

If I was going to replace my 1991 Eunos with a more modern MX5 then it would be something like a 2010-on 2.0 Sport with a powered roof in dark grey colour. But I much prefer the character of the older car, it is much more "raw" and enjoyable - saying that, mine is a toy and is lucky to do 150 miles per year.

Thanks so much. I'm thinking a 1.8 will be sufficient for me - as I learn about how to drive the car and then progress into more road/track driving. But, I think I just want a nice car to drive that handles well and has a some power behind it. I like the idea of the powered roof, but because I travel a lot - I need to put luggage in the boot and dog in the passenger seat. I think the powered hard roof takes up all the space in the boot. Is there one make that has a larger boot?

So, one thing I'm dubious about are these older cars, with few miles. Why would some people not drive their car at all? Like you ? Because it's not an easy car to drive in traffic and use as a daily car? Or most people have them for weekend get away cars? For other makes, one wonders why there is few miles - accident, replaced motor.

Thank you for your time and thoughts.

[drgoatboy]

Travellervet said:

Thanks so much. I'm thinking a 1.8 will be sufficient for me - as I learn about how to drive the car and then progress into more road/track driving. But, I think I just want a nice car to drive that handles well and has a some power behind it. I like the idea of the powered roof, but because I travel a lot - I need to put luggage in the boot and dog in the passenger seat. I think the powered hard roof takes up all the space in the boot. Is there one make that has a larger boot?

So, one thing I'm dubious about are these older cars, with few miles. Why would some people not drive their car at all? Like you ? Because it's not an easy car to drive in traffic and use as a daily car? Or most people have them for weekend get away cars? For other makes, one wonders why there is few miles - accident, replaced motor.

Thank you for your time and thoughts.

These are often weekend cars so often not driven much, I wouldn't be too suspicious of low or high mileage cars. They are no harder to drive than any other car on the road, but they are 2 seater sports cars and so are lower, more stiffly sprung and generally less practical than a lot of other cars on the road which puts some people off using them as daily drivers.
Look at the proliferation of SUV vehicles in the UK to understand the average driver...

As long as they have been well serviced and the mk3 in particular has not been allowed to run low on oil then all should be good. Mechanicals on all MX5 are generally pretty tough.

[Bertrum]

Travellervet said:

Thanks so much. I'm thinking a 1.8 will be sufficient for me - as I learn about how to drive the car and then progress into more road/track driving. But, I think I just want a nice car to drive that handles well and has a some power behind it. I like the idea of the powered roof, but because I travel a lot - I need to put luggage in the boot and dog in the passenger seat. I think the powered hard roof takes up all the space in the boot. Is there one make that has a larger boot?

Thank you for your time and thoughts.

the roof doesn't go into the boot on either model .

[Travellervet]

Any issues about the hard top that automatically folds down? Does it take all the boot space?
Is the hard top considered a Roadster?

May I kindly ask what are the differences between the models and is one better than the other.
I think maybe a MX5 might be a little older than what I'm wanting. As, I don't have the mechanical knowledge to repair it myself, YET. So, I was thinking more a 2 or a 3. I wonder if the MX3 has more creature comforts. But, I don't think I could buy one at my price range.

Is a 2010 with 26,000miles so much better to get than a 2011 with 56,000?

Thank you so much - all of you for your thoughts and guidance.

Most kindly,
Faithe

[VladD]

The folding hard top doesn't take up any boot space.

The hard top has the benefit of being more secure and of keeping sound out, but is heavier than the soft top.

I think you also mean "Mazda 3". They haven't made the MX3 since 1998.

Edited by VladD on Thursday 20th April 15:56

[fido]

Travellervet said:

Any issues about the hard top that automatically folds down? Does it take all the boot space?

It doesn't take any extra space. I would go for a later 3.5 model with revised engine if possible - mileage wasn't a concern for me as long as it has been serviced (big one at 50k). Prices seem to have gone up since i bought mine - though the dealer did mention that it was the last week of winter hibernation (for buyers).

With a 6k budget you could get something like this - Mk3.5 1.8 soft-top low-mileage private-sale ..

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...

Edited by fido on Friday 21st April 08:40

[drgoatboy]

Have you read this?
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-gui...

[Travellervet]

VladD said:

The folding hard top doesn't take up any boot space.

The hard top has the benefit of being more secure and of keeping sound out, but is heavier than the soft top.

I think you also mean "Mazda 3". They haven't made the MX3 since 1998.

Edited by VladD on Thursday 20th April 15:56

Doh - yes, mistake. Thank you.

[Travellervet]

drgoatboy said:

Have you read this?
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-gui...

I think I did read this, amongst a few others. Thank you for sending it through. Even if I did read it, reading it again, doesn't hurt. In one eye and out the piston. I see most models I'm interested in: 2010 sell for an average of 6,000GBP and they have around 26 - 60K miles.

I keep getting stuck on the year and the miles. I saw above someone noted that at the 60K mark it is due a big service. I'm assuming this is why a lot of them are for sale just before that. How much is the 60K service and when is the next major one due - or I think that would be it, except for every 10K.

I just need something I can drive through Europe, reliable and has some boot space and won't cost a lot to insure. I'm now thinking about packing a microscope, a blender, camera, 2 pairs of jeans, undergarments, hiking boots, a tent and a dog - maybe, just maybe a toothbrush. But, the world would be appreciative if I didn't leave the latter one out.

[Travellervet]

drgoatboy said:

These are often weekend cars so often not driven much, I wouldn't be too suspicious of low or high mileage cars. They are no harder to drive than any other car on the road, but they are 2 seater sports cars and so are lower, more stiffly sprung and generally less practical than a lot of other cars on the road which puts some people off using them as daily drivers.
Look at the proliferation of SUV vehicles in the UK to understand the average driver...

As long as they have been well serviced and the mk3 in particular has not been allowed to run low on oil then all should be good. Mechanicals on all MX5 are generally pretty tough.

Thank you. So a later model with few miles, not an issue - just make sure serviced and no rust. I just worry older car, older parts, seals etc., get dry an crack - hence my reluctance to buy something older than 2010. Just going by the almighty word of my mother - "don't get a car older than 5 years old". But, there is no way I can get an MX5 under 5 years within 6K - I think.

[VladD]

Travellervet said:

I think I did read this, amongst a few others. Thank you for sending it through. Even if I did read it, reading it again, doesn't hurt. In one eye and out the piston. I see most models I'm interested in: 2010 sell for an average of 6,000GBP and they have around 26 - 60K miles.

I keep getting stuck on the year and the miles. I saw above someone noted that at the 60K mark it is due a big service. I'm assuming this is why a lot of them are for sale just before that. How much is the 60K service and when is the next major one due - or I think that would be it, except for every 10K.

I just need something I can drive through Europe, reliable and has some boot space and won't cost a lot to insure. I'm now thinking about packing a microscope, a blender, camera, 2 pairs of jeans, undergarments, hiking boots, a tent and a dog - maybe, just maybe a toothbrush. But, the world would be appreciative if I didn't leave the latter one out.

I drove my wife and myself to the Le Mans Classic in my Mk1 in 2012. We had a tent, sleeping bags and enough clothes for a long weekend in it. We even managed to squeeze in a couple of boxes of wine in on the way back, though that did mean we had to keep the roof up.

You can get fitted luggage sets that make life a bit easier.

[Travellervet]

fido said:

It doesn't take any extra space. I would go for a later 3.5 model with revised engine if possible - mileage wasn't a concern for me as long as it has been serviced (big one at 50k). Prices seem to have gone up since i bought mine - though the dealer did mention that it was the last week of winter hibernation (for buyers).

With a 6k budget you could get something like this - Mk3.5 1.8 soft-top low-mileage private-sale ..

http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...

Edited by fido on Friday 21st April 08:40

Thanks - I saw this ad and wasn't sure if it was a good deal or not. I'm assuming that it is . When I go to buy a car, I'm used ot having a mechanic look at one. But, usually in Oz we take the car to a mechanic. Here it seems that people aren't as accommodating for that. However, there are mechanics who will come out and look at the car? I can't see how they'd be able to give it a thorough review, by not being at their shop. So, how is the best way to get an unbiased review of the car, before I buy it? Thanks again.

[Travellervet]

drgoatboy said:

Have you read this?
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-gui...

Yes thank you. It makes sense and I understand it, for the most part. There is some terminology I didn't get, but I'm assuming a mechanic would pick on on these issues? Thank you again.

[Travellervet]

VladD said:

I drove my wife and myself to the Le Mans Classic in my Mk1 in 2012. We had a tent, sleeping bags and enough clothes for a long weekend in it. We even managed to squeeze in a couple of boxes of wine in on the way back, though that did mean we had to keep the roof up.

You can get fitted luggage sets that make life a bit easier.

Ahhhh - thanks. This is really helpful. As some people have noted that I wouldn't lose boot space. How much boot space did you lose if you kept the top down? I'd love to go to Le Mans and Goodwood. I also am a big camper - so I'd like to be able to do that. Thank you.

[VladD]

Travellervet said:

VladD said:

I drove my wife and myself to the Le Mans Classic in my Mk1 in 2012. We had a tent, sleeping bags and enough clothes for a long weekend in it. We even managed to squeeze in a couple of boxes of wine in on the way back, though that did mean we had to keep the roof up.

You can get fitted luggage sets that make life a bit easier.

Ahhhh - thanks. This is really helpful. As some people have noted that I wouldn't lose boot space. How much boot space did you lose if you kept the top down? I'd love to go to Le Mans and Goodwood. I also am a big camper - so I'd like to be able to do that. Thank you.

We put stuff on the parcel shelf behind the seats which meant we couldn't put the roof down. The boot space is the same roof up or down.

[Darryl247W]

I have a 2007 MX-5 2.0i Sport Roadster Coupe (i.e the folding hardtop) since 2008. Actually it was my wife's car but became my daily last year, and it is still easily capable of doing 300 miles a week on my commute. It's been the most reliable, easy and cheap to DIY car we've ever owned in 30 years of driving. It is now the oldest car I've ever used for daily driving which says a lot for Mazda's reliability.
True even the Mk3 cars can suffer from rust. They're not as bad as the earlier cars, but ours has been driven through the winter for several years and is still sound.

Pick a good one, and it will serve you well and entertain you for years to come. Don't be put off by low miles : many of them have been summer cars.

The 60,000 miles service is not a big deal. I don't imagine many are sold just before this to avoid a big service cost. The only major extra item I noted for attention on ours at 60,000 miles was spark plugs!