Mx5 mk3 questions

[Bungle007]

Hi,
I'm thinking of getting a mk3 (2.0 & LSD) as a fast road/track day car. I understand it will need some work on suspension/brakes, and maybe a bbr turbo upgrade.
So my question is I understand the 3.5 & 3.75 have stronger (forged) internals, better suited to high power upgrades. How can I tell which cars are 3.0 / 3.5 / 3.75. Any other things I need to bear in mind.
Thanks in advance..

[Rich196]

NC1

NC3.5


Notice the new front bumper.

The NC3.5 does have stronger internals. If going boosted or cammed then its the way forward, as you can rev them harder too.

Saying that I had a NC1 track car 125k miles. Intake, full exhaust made 188bhp. Used Comma 10w50 oil changed every 3 track days, it was used hard in my owner ship and gave me no issues. Was running Meister coilovers, rx8 ARB, uprated pads. Get the car properly aligned and corner weighted and it will transform the car.
Made for a very quick and capable car, good car to teach you to go fast as you will need to carry speed as it doesnt have big grunt.

BBR cams will take you to around 200bhp
BBR turbo makes about 270 to start.

[Ninja59]

Rich196 said:

NC1

NC3.5


Notice the new front bumper.

Bottom one is a 3.75 not a 3.5, a 3.5 below. The 3.75 only really revised the front bumper and introduced the active bonnet.



Like above said for the stronger internals go for a 3.5 or 3.75. It also avoids some of the earlier issues some owners found. Although, even then make sure you keep the oil at max as some have suffered engine failure even just slightly above the min marker.

Over on the mod's side I would start by checking you have a solid car some of the mk3 are getting on a bit now and some issues have cropped up with the usual mx5 trait of rust. Regarding suspension would be my first place - Meisters have a good reputation, although in honesty I would just go for the Ohlins DFV setup which has dropped in price in recent years meaning the level of investment is far less than it used to be.

ARB's is another good point, also replace the droplinks as they are a common failure point on the NC.

I would deal with the power aspect last IMO.

Edited by Ninja59 on Monday 6th June 14:00

[Bungle007]

Thanks for the replies. I'm coming from a car with around 400 Hp/ton.
I know the mx5 will never be at that level, but have always felt that Quick cars need around 200/ton.
My plan is to get a standard car, sort the suspension, tyres and brakes if necessary, then do a few track days, before getting the car turbo'd by BBR.

[Ninja59]

Are you planning on tracking it with the BBR Turbo? Just watch the manifold (I know they have uprated it now, but even so track work is not covered by BBR's warranty).

It may also be worth considering Blink Motorsport's turbo kit which includes doing everything mentioned (suspension (Ohlins DFV), uprated ARB's (Eibach or Superpro), upgraded exhaust (Racing Beat), Wheels & Tyres, brakes you would have to check & of course the turbo kit developed in the US. Unlike the BBR kit this also features an adjustable turbo pressure controller.They also have their demo car, if memory serves it was running about 310/320 (the mapping was nearly finished last time I saw it).

Note: I have a little bias as my NC has been visiting Blink since 2014 and has had a fair amount of work done there (general servicing & MOT, lowering, ARB's, droplinks (on more than one occasion), alignment cams and bolts replaced all around with plenty of copper slip in necessary locations.

Be aware that the NC alignment bolts are well known to seize on the NC and are a pig if they seize (from speaking with Blink sadly the NC in alignment terms is holding up worse than the NA and NB, ND is of course a bit too new)