Thinking about upgrading your NA/NB brakes?
Discussion
If you're thinking about upgrading your NA/NB brakes, either to cope with more power or just because you fancy some upgrades, this might be worth a few minutes of your time to check if the things you're planning are going to have the desired results or not...
MX5 Brake System Model
MX5 Brake System Model
Nice work, very usable. The only thing I'd say is that maybe it could use a reset button?
Purely out of interest, but why is the braking from OE sitting on your gauge calculations in the red zone?
In my example a 97 1.8 NA w/o ABS and standard front and rear items, 195/50/15 tyres. The bias is a shade under +0.6, and the front temperature is double the rear temp. I'm assuming they're set up to be front-biased as standard?
Purely out of interest, but why is the braking from OE sitting on your gauge calculations in the red zone?
In my example a 97 1.8 NA w/o ABS and standard front and rear items, 195/50/15 tyres. The bias is a shade under +0.6, and the front temperature is double the rear temp. I'm assuming they're set up to be front-biased as standard?
Krikkit said:
Nice work, very usable. The only thing I'd say is that maybe it could use a reset button?
Purely out of interest, but why is the braking from OE sitting on your gauge calculations in the red zone?
In my example a 97 1.8 NA w/o ABS and standard front and rear items, 195/50/15 tyres. The bias is a shade under +0.6, and the front temperature is double the rear temp. I'm assuming they're set up to be front-biased as standard?
Good call, though I just refresh the page. Purely out of interest, but why is the braking from OE sitting on your gauge calculations in the red zone?
In my example a 97 1.8 NA w/o ABS and standard front and rear items, 195/50/15 tyres. The bias is a shade under +0.6, and the front temperature is double the rear temp. I'm assuming they're set up to be front-biased as standard?
It's red because it's not optimum. Green is where you want to be (the temps are 'open to interpretation' there of course) and the standard setup is quite heavily front biased, this means the rear brakes run very cool and the fronts take the majority of the load, hence the huge temp differential.
I have a 95 1.8, with everything else stock I simply removed the prop valve from my system and the improvement was insane, a genuine increase of 20% over stock. Bonus is that the temps should now also be fairly equal, at least in theory.
Kozy said:
It's red because it's not optimum. Green is where you want to be (the temps are 'open to interpretation' there of course) and the standard setup is quite heavily front biased, this means the rear brakes run very cool and the fronts take the majority of the load, hence the huge temp differential.
I have a 95 1.8, with everything else stock I simply removed the prop valve from my system and the improvement was insane, a genuine increase of 20% over stock. Bonus is that the temps should now also be fairly equal, at least in theory.
Interesting! I'll definitely look into that, I always thought the bias felt a bit front-heavy, I suppose they wanted to err on the side of caution. How easy was removal?I have a 95 1.8, with everything else stock I simply removed the prop valve from my system and the improvement was insane, a genuine increase of 20% over stock. Bonus is that the temps should now also be fairly equal, at least in theory.
Valve is located next to the MC, two or three bolts hold it in
Take it out and crack the 22mm nut off the end.
Empty the contents out.
Refit 22mm nut, reattach to the car and bleed.
Job done!
I will add that it is highly recommended to ensured all four calipers are in full working order (a sticking front caliper would push it towards rear lockup) and that you run the same pad compound on both axles.
Do check the bias with your exact setup on calculator first, this mod works well on a bone stock car but may not suit some modified ones!
Take it out and crack the 22mm nut off the end.
Empty the contents out.
Refit 22mm nut, reattach to the car and bleed.
Job done!
I will add that it is highly recommended to ensured all four calipers are in full working order (a sticking front caliper would push it towards rear lockup) and that you run the same pad compound on both axles.
Do check the bias with your exact setup on calculator first, this mod works well on a bone stock car but may not suit some modified ones!
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