Missed one :-(
Discussion
I've been looking at advertisements for an MX5 1.8 Mk1/2/2.5 to run in a production roadgoing hillclimb class.
I was just too late to get a £2.2k Mk2.5 which appeared to have had a few minor tweeks and to have been well maintained, it even had a roll bar which would have saved me fitting one myself.
I'd rather not get involved in body/chassis repairs but I don't mind doing other mechanical work but don't want to do an engine rebuild (at what mileage do they begin showing their age?).
Ideal spec. would be a 1.8 with 6 speed gearbox and Torsen diff (I'm aware that I can fit a Kia crownwheel to change the gearing).
Thanks.
Sorry not allowed.
I was just too late to get a £2.2k Mk2.5 which appeared to have had a few minor tweeks and to have been well maintained, it even had a roll bar which would have saved me fitting one myself.
I'd rather not get involved in body/chassis repairs but I don't mind doing other mechanical work but don't want to do an engine rebuild (at what mileage do they begin showing their age?).
Ideal spec. would be a 1.8 with 6 speed gearbox and Torsen diff (I'm aware that I can fit a Kia crownwheel to change the gearing).
Thanks.
Sorry not allowed.
Edited by Big Al. on Sunday 1st November 11:11
DarkMatter said:
...I don't mind doing other mechanical work but don't want to do an engine rebuild (at what mileage do they begin showing their age?)...
Basically, they don't. Ok, of course all engines get tired after a while but generally on MX5 engines, as long as they have been serviced properly, the engines will well outlive the body. The engines are over-engineered, being based on a Mazda 323 turbo engine, which is why they are so well suited to forced induction. I've known of '5s with 150k miles on an engine that have been turbo'd/SC'd pretty much from day 1 without a problem. My own Mk2.5 1.8 has been SC'd with well over 200bhp since 15k and is now on 80k and it has been used pretty hard on quite a few track days all over the country as well as a number of runs down the drag strip (14.0 secs, 101mph if you were wondering 
).On the other hand, I have seen some fairly low mileage '5s which have had engine failures, usually head gasket which can usually be put down to a lack of servicing or bad servicing. Not using the correct coolant or just water, not getting frequent oil changes being the main culprits.
300,000 mile MX5?
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=433002
They are stupidly reliable mechanically.
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=433002
They are stupidly reliable mechanically.
Munter said:
300,000 mile MX5?
http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=433002
They are stupidly reliable mechanically.
As long as they are serviced properly - I always add that caveat http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=433002
They are stupidly reliable mechanically.
For the first time I looked at and drove an Mx 5 today, it was a Mk2.5 1.8 Sport, which leads me to ask a couple more questions...
There was some very obvious poor repair work at the back end of the sills/lower edge of the rear wing forward of the back wheels, I know that this is a common Mx5 problem, would I be right in thinking that a simple cover panel will not be sufficient to rectify this and that repairs to the wing/sill/floor/inner sill/seatbelt mounting are also likely to be required?
The clutch pedal did not feel as though the return action was very strong (do they have a hydraulic clutch?), and there was a noise when driving which sounded a bit like a clutch release bearing but this was only noticeable when my foot was off the clutch so could it have been noise from the gearbox input shaft bearing?
Thanks.
There was some very obvious poor repair work at the back end of the sills/lower edge of the rear wing forward of the back wheels, I know that this is a common Mx5 problem, would I be right in thinking that a simple cover panel will not be sufficient to rectify this and that repairs to the wing/sill/floor/inner sill/seatbelt mounting are also likely to be required?
The clutch pedal did not feel as though the return action was very strong (do they have a hydraulic clutch?), and there was a noise when driving which sounded a bit like a clutch release bearing but this was only noticeable when my foot was off the clutch so could it have been noise from the gearbox input shaft bearing?
Thanks.
DarkMatter said:
For the first time I looked at and drove an Mx 5 today, it was a Mk2.5 1.8 Sport, which leads me to ask a couple more questions...
There was some very obvious poor repair work at the back end of the sills/lower edge of the rear wing forward of the back wheels, I know that this is a common Mx5 problem, would I be right in thinking that a simple cover panel will not be sufficient to rectify this and that repairs to the wing/sill/floor/inner sill/seatbelt mounting are also likely to be required?
The clutch pedal did not feel as though the return action was very strong (do they have a hydraulic clutch?), and there was a noise when driving which sounded a bit like a clutch release bearing but this was only noticeable when my foot was off the clutch so could it have been noise from the gearbox input shaft bearing?
Thanks.
Walk away!There was some very obvious poor repair work at the back end of the sills/lower edge of the rear wing forward of the back wheels, I know that this is a common Mx5 problem, would I be right in thinking that a simple cover panel will not be sufficient to rectify this and that repairs to the wing/sill/floor/inner sill/seatbelt mounting are also likely to be required?
The clutch pedal did not feel as though the return action was very strong (do they have a hydraulic clutch?), and there was a noise when driving which sounded a bit like a clutch release bearing but this was only noticeable when my foot was off the clutch so could it have been noise from the gearbox input shaft bearing?
Thanks.
There are many more for sale so take your time and buy the best condition bodywork you can.
Usget said:
If you do buy one and strip it, can I buy the seats off you?? Thankyouplease.
As I'd be running in a production road-going class I think I'd be allowed to change only the drivers seat and I sense it could take some time to find the right car so don't hold your breath while you wait 
DarkMatter said:
I looked at another today, I didn't even bother to drive it - rust, rot, rot, rust, fibreglass, rust, rust, and rust.
Maybe my expectations are too high? Is there likely to be any 1.8 S/Sports out there for up to £2k'ish that have not gone rusty or have been skillfully repaired?
Possibly. If not you could buy the one I just did, or you could have done, and repaired it for (lots) less than your £2k. Mine *may* need welding for the next test or I may be able to clean it up, slather it in Waxoyl and hold it back for a year or two. Hopefully the latter, but if not then the MIG will get an outing. Apparently a pro job is about £200 a side, more if you want arches doing and paint. In my case nothing above the black sill paint area is affected and there are no holes. It's a '99 Mk2 btw, all working, needs a few bits tidying up. So they *are* out there. I've since seen a 2003 near me, £1400, looks OK on a cycle-by. I'm in Leeds if you want the details or I can go kick its tyres and prod its sills.Maybe my expectations are too high? Is there likely to be any 1.8 S/Sports out there for up to £2k'ish that have not gone rusty or have been skillfully repaired?
You need to be aware that the rust can look OK on the face of it but it comes through from inside. My 03 plate sport looked mint except for a very small amount of bubbling on the rear sills, within 18 months both rear sills were cut out and both sides painted.
Some one here once said who suggested there are cars that either have had a repair or need one soon and I fully agree. Apart from a small number of minters and some recent JDM imports any UK car that has been used all year round is going to be rusty somewhere.
I think for your budget you will struggle to get that spec and a low mileage / rust free / straight car. I'm looking to buy a RS in Japan at present and the values on these are pretty strong, nowhere near £2k landed. For a track car I'd seriously consider a CAT recorded car, you may end up stacking it anyway.
Some one here once said who suggested there are cars that either have had a repair or need one soon and I fully agree. Apart from a small number of minters and some recent JDM imports any UK car that has been used all year round is going to be rusty somewhere.
I think for your budget you will struggle to get that spec and a low mileage / rust free / straight car. I'm looking to buy a RS in Japan at present and the values on these are pretty strong, nowhere near £2k landed. For a track car I'd seriously consider a CAT recorded car, you may end up stacking it anyway.
My advice is to buy one needing the repairs, you can pick a MK2 up that is worth nowt because of rust (I know because I frequently do).
The problems are the front rails and the rear sills, the rails are a big job but not that big, compared to putting sills on an MGB it's a walk in the park and that's considered a part of owning an MGB, I reckon to take a weekend doing the front end repairs to both rails, and that's doing them properly. The rear sills are usually just the outer skin, the inner is usually sound on the MK2. Ironically on the MK1 it has often gone in to the bulkhead as it takes longer to come through. There are some good rear wing panels around now including the lower section of sill for around £100 a side, this gets rid of all the iffy areas on the rear.
While your in there you can have a good poke around and refresh the suspension which you will want to do, in part because all the adjusters will be seized, you may as well replace the suspension at the same time for whatever your class allows and you will want to adjust your geo so it all wants to be free, you can polybush it at the same time.
In parts I'd expect to get a 6 speed MK2 (although don't discount the 5) plus do the repairs myself (no labour costs here though) for around a grand. And you know it's a straight car then, even if you buy one with lovely shiny bodywork chances are rust will show it's head soon.
The problems are the front rails and the rear sills, the rails are a big job but not that big, compared to putting sills on an MGB it's a walk in the park and that's considered a part of owning an MGB, I reckon to take a weekend doing the front end repairs to both rails, and that's doing them properly. The rear sills are usually just the outer skin, the inner is usually sound on the MK2. Ironically on the MK1 it has often gone in to the bulkhead as it takes longer to come through. There are some good rear wing panels around now including the lower section of sill for around £100 a side, this gets rid of all the iffy areas on the rear.
While your in there you can have a good poke around and refresh the suspension which you will want to do, in part because all the adjusters will be seized, you may as well replace the suspension at the same time for whatever your class allows and you will want to adjust your geo so it all wants to be free, you can polybush it at the same time.
In parts I'd expect to get a 6 speed MK2 (although don't discount the 5) plus do the repairs myself (no labour costs here though) for around a grand. And you know it's a straight car then, even if you buy one with lovely shiny bodywork chances are rust will show it's head soon.
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