Discussion
I'm taking the plunge on a Mk 2.5 2001 1.8i S tonight, it will be my first MX-5.I have always fancied one ever since my old mate bought one new back on G plate many moons ago. I've read up lots on here and have scared myself now over the rust situation, I know that this particular one has a little on one rear arch, visually that is about ituntil I can check the chassis rails.
The first thing that I will be doing is fixing the electric aerial which apparently 'only recently' failed to operate anymore, secondly would be the wheels as they are pretty scabby. I can't make my mind up whether to have them refurbed at a cost of £200 locally or buy a new set, probably £250-300 , should I keep her original or not, I can't make my mind up ?
The first thing that I will be doing is fixing the electric aerial which apparently 'only recently' failed to operate anymore, secondly would be the wheels as they are pretty scabby. I can't make my mind up whether to have them refurbed at a cost of £200 locally or buy a new set, probably £250-300 , should I keep her original or not, I can't make my mind up ?
joekarter said:
I'm taking the plunge on a Mk 2.5 2001 1.8i S tonight, it will be my first MX-5.I have always fancied one ever since my old mate bought one new back on G plate many moons ago. I've read up lots on here and have scared myself now over the rust situation, I know that this particular one has a little on one rear arch, visually that is about ituntil I can check the chassis rails.
The first thing that I will be doing is fixing the electric aerial which apparently 'only recently' failed to operate anymore, secondly would be the wheels as they are pretty scabby. I can't make my mind up whether to have them refurbed at a cost of £200 locally or buy a new set, probably £250-300 , should I keep her original or not, I can't make my mind up ?
It's not a Mk1, so no reason to keep it original. Mod away. The first thing that I will be doing is fixing the electric aerial which apparently 'only recently' failed to operate anymore, secondly would be the wheels as they are pretty scabby. I can't make my mind up whether to have them refurbed at a cost of £200 locally or buy a new set, probably £250-300 , should I keep her original or not, I can't make my mind up ?
But seriously, get those chassis rails looked at and then make a call on the rest of it.
Obviously we need photos.
Have fun.
Chassis rails aren't as big a problem now as they used to be. It's generally a cheaper job than sill repairs. Repair sections can be bought fairly cheaply, only some parts need removal (engine doesn't usually have to come out) and of course you don't have such a problem with paint matching or making it look pretty. The repair sections themselves will also be less prone to rust than the originals in Mk2+.
The owner insists its clean but I will have good look before buying tonight , I've already knocked him down the cost of a set of wheels and an aerial , can't push for more off unless I just pull out altogether, I know there are loads about. I'll post some photos if all goes well, cheers.
MX-5 Lazza said:
Chassis rails aren't as big a problem now as they used to be. It's generally a cheaper job than sill repairs. Repair sections can be bought fairly cheaply, only some parts need removal (engine doesn't usually have to come out) and of course you don't have such a problem with paint matching or making it look pretty. The repair sections themselves will also be less prone to rust than the originals in Mk2+.
The parts may be cheap but labour isn't on chassis rails. The last one I did took a good few hours to remove the arb remove the rad, inner arches, bumper etc and drop the top arm down to get access too cut out all the rust and weld in the new panels.Well I just picked it up and there is an awful rattle when going over bumps coming from the passenger side rear,it has new discs and pads, so I'm wondering if it is a pad needs a shim or two ? The rust didn't look as bad today, although I did notice a little in the engine bay on one of the rails . I'll post some pics over the weekend as I'm off to Lydden for the Rally X tomorrow.
joekarter said:
Well I just picked it up and there is an awful rattle when going over bumps coming from the passenger side rear,it has new discs and pads, so I'm wondering if it is a pad needs a shim or two ? The rust didn't look as bad today, although I did notice a little in the engine bay on one of the rails . I'll post some pics over the weekend as I'm off to Lydden for the Rally X tomorrow.
Get it up on a ramp and remove the front undertray to access the rust before doing anything else with itI need to sort the rattle/clunking from the rear nearside corner first as it's p#***ng me off. The pads are very loose on that side and the noise goes when I left foot brake , but I'm not convinced it is the pads . It has a fresh years ticket on it so I'm not desperate to see how bad the rails are.
I'm in almost the exact same position. Collected a dark blue mk2.5 1.8i yesterday: low mileage, hard-top, rusty arches, and a year's MOT. Little bits'n'bobs need attention, including an exhaust bracket that causes an annoying resonance at idle, but only sometimes. So I want to fix the little things now, and worry about the rust later.
Still, I'm on holiday and the forecast is sunny, so today is only for driving.
Still, I'm on holiday and the forecast is sunny, so today is only for driving.
joekarter said:
I need to sort the rattle/clunking from the rear nearside corner first as it's p#***ng me off. The pads are very loose on that side and the noise goes when I left foot brake , but I'm not convinced it is the pads.
There should be two V (or is it W?) shaped hair springs which go between the pads top and bottom. If these are missing then pads will rattle. HTH.
Cheers, Pewe
Well I've had the car for over a week now so have had the chance to give it a look over. I ordered a new electric aerial and replaced that, it was easy once I had removed the broken part of the plastic gear thing from the elictric motor. I sorted the pad rattle, a fitting kit had not been used with what are after market pads, I could not get the W springs to fit as there isn't provision for them with these pads, although I did manage to fit the top and bottom clips, to stop the pad rattle.
I had a awful squeal on the nearside electric window, that was solved with a bit of white grease in the runners.
The ride seems very firm almost as if the pressures are too high, I have set them to 26 psi all around,it feels as though it is skipping across bumps to me ? The gearbox is very notchy, I have found that I skip gears now, from 2nd to 4th, 1st to 3rd and I found I was coming from 6th to 3rd at first with the close gate. The clutch bites very early, probably not a good sign ?
As for rust - apart from the nearside arch the back end of both seals has some lovely bubbles which ooze water when pressed,the paint hasn't broken there yet so they don't look too bad. Under the bonnet the chassis on the driver side has some flakey rust , I haven't had it on a ramp with the cover off yet, so I'm not sure how bad it is underneath there ?
Overall the body looks pretty clean, with just one or two shopping trolley dents on the nearside, the hood has a couple of little tears on where it folds back, but it doesn't leak. I've given it (the hood) a coat of sealant (Wonder Wheels product ?) and have resin coated the body work with Autoglym.
I'll try and upload some photos this week, I do want this car to be a project as I have the spare time and patience to tidy her up, I'll just have to plan where to start.
I had a awful squeal on the nearside electric window, that was solved with a bit of white grease in the runners.
The ride seems very firm almost as if the pressures are too high, I have set them to 26 psi all around,it feels as though it is skipping across bumps to me ? The gearbox is very notchy, I have found that I skip gears now, from 2nd to 4th, 1st to 3rd and I found I was coming from 6th to 3rd at first with the close gate. The clutch bites very early, probably not a good sign ?
As for rust - apart from the nearside arch the back end of both seals has some lovely bubbles which ooze water when pressed,the paint hasn't broken there yet so they don't look too bad. Under the bonnet the chassis on the driver side has some flakey rust , I haven't had it on a ramp with the cover off yet, so I'm not sure how bad it is underneath there ?
Overall the body looks pretty clean, with just one or two shopping trolley dents on the nearside, the hood has a couple of little tears on where it folds back, but it doesn't leak. I've given it (the hood) a coat of sealant (Wonder Wheels product ?) and have resin coated the body work with Autoglym.
I'll try and upload some photos this week, I do want this car to be a project as I have the spare time and patience to tidy her up, I'll just have to plan where to start.
Regarding the 'notchy' gearbox there are a few things to try before condemning the clutch -
1) Bleed the system using fresh fluid and/or
2) Slave cylinder - a known weak spot - cheap as chips from Autolink for a pattern part.
3) Master cylinder - again repair kits not that expensive
3) Gear lever turret - change the oil (I think it's the same as a Mk1) and check the nylon base bearing on the lever is intact/not worn.
Failing those it's probably a new clutch.
Gearboxes are pretty robust. Play in the first motion shaft indicates whether it's generally worn or not but you can't do that until the box is out.
DIY is possible depending on your mechanical skill - either box out from underneath or engine/box out from on the top.
Both a PIA but do-able.
Various maintenance jobs whilst it's out incl. gearbox front seals, heater hoses, engine mounts etc. etc.
IMO if you can find an indie who'll change the clutch for less than 200 notes do that.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe.
1) Bleed the system using fresh fluid and/or
2) Slave cylinder - a known weak spot - cheap as chips from Autolink for a pattern part.
3) Master cylinder - again repair kits not that expensive
3) Gear lever turret - change the oil (I think it's the same as a Mk1) and check the nylon base bearing on the lever is intact/not worn.
Failing those it's probably a new clutch.
Gearboxes are pretty robust. Play in the first motion shaft indicates whether it's generally worn or not but you can't do that until the box is out.
DIY is possible depending on your mechanical skill - either box out from underneath or engine/box out from on the top.
Both a PIA but do-able.
Various maintenance jobs whilst it's out incl. gearbox front seals, heater hoses, engine mounts etc. etc.
IMO if you can find an indie who'll change the clutch for less than 200 notes do that.
HTH.
Cheers, Pewe.
Before doing all that work get the rust issues checked and sort first. If the sills not seals have already got rust bubbles with water then underneath has bad rust mx5s rust from the inside out.
Again as said the front chassis rails if has signs of corrosion from the top get the undercover off and give it a good checking over or get a specialist mx5 garage to check it for you.
Don't waste money on other things without getting the rust sorted/checked first.
Again as said the front chassis rails if has signs of corrosion from the top get the undercover off and give it a good checking over or get a specialist mx5 garage to check it for you.
Don't waste money on other things without getting the rust sorted/checked first.
I know I will find rust Chris and that it will need new sills and possibly chassis rails I'm not doubting that, but I can't see the point of me stressing over it now, when it has a 12 month ticket and it is the best time of the year for a convertible sports car ? The rust jobs can wait until autumn and the car can be off the road for the winter, that is no big deal for me . If it cost up to £1k to fix it up then so be it.
At the moment I just want to make my ride as comfortable as I can, the car looks great from the outside even if it is on the way to being f****d from the inside (in places). Little jobs I can handle for now and I'll leave the big stuff to the experts who can earn their money fixing the car up.
At the moment I just want to make my ride as comfortable as I can, the car looks great from the outside even if it is on the way to being f****d from the inside (in places). Little jobs I can handle for now and I'll leave the big stuff to the experts who can earn their money fixing the car up.
Lots of good advice there for you! Another easily solved source of annoying rattles may be the links from the arbs both front and back. I've recently sold our first Mk2.5 Sport and bought another lower mileage fixer up, so there are the usual fun and games with rust, plus a weird problem - I thought when I bought the car that the usual rear sill rust looked worse on the driver's side (noted on the MOT as an advisory) and indeed it was. The hood drain was blocked by a plastic clip for the interior trim that must have been there for ten years, subjecting the sill's interior to lots of water! Anyhow, it's fixed now and I can move on to a split in one chassis rail caused by some klutz with a jack - more of a clearly defined cut really, so hopefully not too bad to do.
Just back from Le Mans where I was pleased to see several MX5s on our campsite away from the circuit, I didn't take mine this year due to the amount of camping gear that goes down with us, however we are going down to see the KZ Karting World finals in September, so may take it then.
The rust on mine is prodominently on the near side, the previous owners were unaware of the possible blocked waterways until quite recently, so this could have been a lot of the problem ? I've bought one of those bendy brush things to keep them clear now.
I still haven't done many miles and am looking to address the clutch issue first using pewe's suggestion of a new slave cylinder/decent bleed. I need to sort the ride out next as the car does tend to judder and skip over bumps (along with the rattles), I'll go to our nearest MX5 specialist for that here in Chatham Kent.
The rust on mine is prodominently on the near side, the previous owners were unaware of the possible blocked waterways until quite recently, so this could have been a lot of the problem ? I've bought one of those bendy brush things to keep them clear now.
I still haven't done many miles and am looking to address the clutch issue first using pewe's suggestion of a new slave cylinder/decent bleed. I need to sort the ride out next as the car does tend to judder and skip over bumps (along with the rattles), I'll go to our nearest MX5 specialist for that here in Chatham Kent.
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