Potentially buying an early NC, anything to look out for?
Discussion
Sorry if this has been asked a million times before , but I've got the bug to jump on the MX5 wagon but I've read multiple rust stories on the NC? Is this just google paranoia or is this a real common issue on the NC?
Is there anything else I should be looking out for when viewing?
The car will be put on lowering springs and a proper alignment, also did all the 2 litres comes with an LSD or was it just the Sport models, I'm looking at pre facelift's if this matters?
Thanks
Is there anything else I should be looking out for when viewing?
The car will be put on lowering springs and a proper alignment, also did all the 2 litres comes with an LSD or was it just the Sport models, I'm looking at pre facelift's if this matters?
Thanks
I bought a MX-5 about two weeks ago and I found the PH Buying Guide very helpful.
It states all the weak (and strong) points!
http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features/ma...
Also I made this checklist myself.
I think most things you should watch for are on it, but not 100% sure...
POWERTRAIN
- It's very important that all maintenance is done according the schedule.
- Make sure the car you are looking at has been treated to the correct Mazda-specific coolant every two years.
- It's important to check that the MX-5 you are buying has been getting an oil refresh within this interval.
- Check the oil level when you are test driving a MX-5. It's best if the oil level is always on MAX.
- The manual gearboxes can experience a stiff change from first to second when they are cold, but this should ease as soon as the transmission is warm. So check this.
ROLLING CHASSIS
- Check the brake pads, because bad pads could indicate hard driving or bad maintenance.
- Check the tires before buying one. It will save you a lot of money.
- Look for cars with four matching tires, this says a lot about the life and the owners of it.
- Check the rims for any damage. Many owners have had problems with the alloys' lacquer peeling off.
BODY
- Check if drain holes for the hood are blocked. It can lead to rust, so check for damp carpets under the seats and on the parcel shelf. Also check under the carpet in the boot. Check all 13 places where the VIN is shown:
> One is on the front slam panel near the bonnet catch.
> One is on the top of each front wing (two in total).
> One is on the inside of the bonnet.
> One is engraved on the top right of the re wall.
> One is placed behind the bottom of the windshield.
> One is vertical inside the door jamb near the door hinge on each side when you open the doors (two in total).
> One is at above the catch of the door on each side (two in total).
> One is on the back or underneath the doors themselves (two in total).
> One is on the inside of the boot lid.
- Look for damage to the bumpers or front number plate plinth that denote careless parking by a previous owner.
- Check if the fabric of the soft-top is in good shape and doesn't have any tears, especially above the windows.
INTERIOR
- Ask if there are two keys with the car. Those are expensive to replace.
- Check the lights on the dash. There should be no lights on, at all.
- The electric window buttons in center console can fail, so check those.
- Check the driver's side seat belt tensioner. It can wear and slacken, which means you have to feed the belt back into the reel.
- Cabin plastics can scratch easily, so watch scratches and damage.
- All in all, just check if everything in the cabin works!
- Make sure the tire sealant in the boot is still within its use-by date as Mazda's original can only had a useful life of two years.
I hope this helps!
It states all the weak (and strong) points!
http://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-features/ma...
Also I made this checklist myself.
I think most things you should watch for are on it, but not 100% sure...
POWERTRAIN
- It's very important that all maintenance is done according the schedule.
- Make sure the car you are looking at has been treated to the correct Mazda-specific coolant every two years.
- It's important to check that the MX-5 you are buying has been getting an oil refresh within this interval.
- Check the oil level when you are test driving a MX-5. It's best if the oil level is always on MAX.
- The manual gearboxes can experience a stiff change from first to second when they are cold, but this should ease as soon as the transmission is warm. So check this.
ROLLING CHASSIS
- Check the brake pads, because bad pads could indicate hard driving or bad maintenance.
- Check the tires before buying one. It will save you a lot of money.
- Look for cars with four matching tires, this says a lot about the life and the owners of it.
- Check the rims for any damage. Many owners have had problems with the alloys' lacquer peeling off.
BODY
- Check if drain holes for the hood are blocked. It can lead to rust, so check for damp carpets under the seats and on the parcel shelf. Also check under the carpet in the boot. Check all 13 places where the VIN is shown:
> One is on the front slam panel near the bonnet catch.
> One is on the top of each front wing (two in total).
> One is on the inside of the bonnet.
> One is engraved on the top right of the re wall.
> One is placed behind the bottom of the windshield.
> One is vertical inside the door jamb near the door hinge on each side when you open the doors (two in total).
> One is at above the catch of the door on each side (two in total).
> One is on the back or underneath the doors themselves (two in total).
> One is on the inside of the boot lid.
- Look for damage to the bumpers or front number plate plinth that denote careless parking by a previous owner.
- Check if the fabric of the soft-top is in good shape and doesn't have any tears, especially above the windows.
INTERIOR
- Ask if there are two keys with the car. Those are expensive to replace.
- Check the lights on the dash. There should be no lights on, at all.
- The electric window buttons in center console can fail, so check those.
- Check the driver's side seat belt tensioner. It can wear and slacken, which means you have to feed the belt back into the reel.
- Cabin plastics can scratch easily, so watch scratches and damage.
- All in all, just check if everything in the cabin works!
- Make sure the tire sealant in the boot is still within its use-by date as Mazda's original can only had a useful life of two years.
I hope this helps!
Edited by TNurburgring on Thursday 12th March 19:52
RNicholls9 said:
Thanks for the reply, just finished reading the PH guide, cleared a few things up and a big thanks for your checklist, will help a lot!
How's your MX5 treating you, is the hype as good as you'd hoped?
I am actually waiying for it to arrive tomorrow. Mine comes from Germany (I live in the Netherlands) and the Mazda dealer where I bought the car needed to do a few things like lowering the car with MazdaSpeed springs, installing 4 new tires, installing OEM taillights (the ones in the car were painted black) and some other small things... When I finally have the car here tomorrow, I can't drive in it because I have no numberplates. I have to do some paperwork and let it check if it's road legal and safe. After all that, that will rake another 2 weeks I think, I can finally drive in it! How's your MX5 treating you, is the hype as good as you'd hoped?
TNurburgring said:
I am actually waiying for it to arrive tomorrow. Mine comes from Germany (I live in the Netherlands) and the Mazda dealer where I bought the car needed to do a few things like lowering the car with MazdaSpeed springs, installing 4 new tires, installing OEM taillights (the ones in the car were painted black) and some other small things... When I finally have the car here tomorrow, I can't drive in it because I have no numberplates. I have to do some paperwork and let it check if it's road legal and safe. After all that, that will rake another 2 weeks I think, I can finally drive in it!
You must have some patience! There's no way I could resist that temptation haha. Should be worth it in the end though. Hope all goes well for you with it!The buying guide from Robinm's on nutz 
2012 http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
2012 http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
Edited by g40steve on Thursday 12th March 21:11
g40steve said:
The buying guide from Robinm's on nutz
2012 http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
Nice one! Fair bit of detail too, all down to me if I buy a bit of a dog then!2012 http://www.mx5nutz.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1...
Edited by g40steve on Thursday 12th March 21:11
RNicholls9 said:
Sorry if this has been asked a million times before , but I've got the bug to jump on the MX5 wagon but I've read multiple rust stories on the NC? Is this just google paranoia or is this a real common issue on the NC?
Is there anything else I should be looking out for when viewing?
The car will be put on lowering springs and a proper alignment, also did all the 2 litres comes with an LSD or was it just the Sport models, I'm looking at pre facelift's if this matters?
Thanks
If you are considering going down the route of supercharging then you need to consider a 2008 model onwards as there was an engine parts refresh with stronger components that will take the load from the superchargers on offer. All the 2.0ltr have the LSD.Is there anything else I should be looking out for when viewing?
The car will be put on lowering springs and a proper alignment, also did all the 2 litres comes with an LSD or was it just the Sport models, I'm looking at pre facelift's if this matters?
Thanks
g40steve said:
Join nutz & get clued up.
On it!ScorpKing said:
If you are considering going down the route of supercharging then you need to consider a 2008 model onwards as there was an engine parts refresh with stronger components that will take the load from the superchargers on offer. All the 2.0ltr have the LSD.
As much as I'd love to go down the FI route I'm only 21 so my insurance probably wouldn't be very nice if I did 
Would say look for rust. Have a 2010 nc. Had the boot lit painted due to corrosion between the number plate lamps, done under warranty last year. Also mine has what I consider heavy corrosion to both rear chassis legs at the boot floor (rust is flaking off). Dealer looked at it, sent photos to Mazda, they agreed to paint the boot lid but weren't interested in the structural points that are rotting !
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