Winter overhaul - Parts Required?

Winter overhaul - Parts Required?

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eltax91

Original Poster:

10,014 posts

212 months

Monday 2nd December 2013
quotequote all
Hi all. I have a MK2 1.8iS (R Reg) as a fun car. My Accord will be back from getting it's LPG conversion done over the next few days, so it's time to get all the bits together for the MX5's mini winter overhaul. So far, I've got on my list, or in the cupboard already:-

Engine Oil
Gear Oil for 'box & diff (any recommendations on which one?)
Oil, air & fuel filter
Coolant (standard blue?)
Thermostat (intend to buy genuine Mazda on this)
Rad Cap (intend to buy genuine Mazda on this)
Discs, pads and fitting kit all round
Cambelt, tensioner & spring kit (and locking tool)
Cam cover gasket
Aux belts
Spark plugs & HT leads

So, did I miss anything? I have bought most of the about already (stuff with no comment against), but anything specific to watch out for with those that I've made notes again?

MX-5 Lazza

7,952 posts

225 months

Monday 2nd December 2013
quotequote all
This is what I use:

Engine Oil - Mobil 1 0W/40.
Gear Oil for 'box & diff - Redline full synthetic. MTL for gearbox and 75W/90 for dif. Great stuff.
Oil, air & fuel filter - Mazda.
Coolant (standard blue?) - Comma Xtream Green.
Thermostat (intend to buy genuine Mazda on this) - Mazda.
Rad Cap (intend to buy genuine Mazda on this) - Mazda.
Discs, pads and fitting kit all round - Discs cheapo from local motor factors. Mazda pads (assuming road car).
Cambelt, tensioner & spring kit (and locking tool) - Autolink kit. Add water-pump too.
Cam cover gasket - Comes with Autolink kit.
Aux belts - Anywhere.
Spark plugs & HT leads - Whatever your

So, did I miss anything? Just the water pump I'd say. Fuel filter too if you have the tools to replace it. Usually easier to pay a garage to do it at MoT time.

fatjon

2,298 posts

219 months

Monday 2nd December 2013
quotequote all
Save your money on the stat. The Mazda one will not have Mazda written on it anyway. Get good auxilliary belts, there may be a case for getting orginals as I have had a couple that were not quite right and fell apart within a couple of thousand miles. The pukka ones have now been on for 8k and are fine.


eltax91

Original Poster:

10,014 posts

212 months

Tuesday 3rd December 2013
quotequote all
MX-5 Lazza said:
This is what I use:

Engine Oil - Mobil 1 0W/40.
Gear Oil for 'box & diff - Redline full synthetic. MTL for gearbox and 75W/90 for dif. Great stuff.
Oil, air & fuel filter - Mazda.
Coolant (standard blue?) - Comma Xtream Green.
Thermostat (intend to buy genuine Mazda on this) - Mazda.
Rad Cap (intend to buy genuine Mazda on this) - Mazda.
Discs, pads and fitting kit all round - Discs cheapo from local motor factors. Mazda pads (assuming road car).
Cambelt, tensioner & spring kit (and locking tool) - Autolink kit. Add water-pump too.
Cam cover gasket - Comes with Autolink kit.
Aux belts - Anywhere.
Spark plugs & HT leads - Whatever your

So, did I miss anything? Just the water pump I'd say. Fuel filter too if you have the tools to replace it. Usually easier to pay a garage to do it at MoT time.
Thanks for the advice. Water Pump I admit I had not thought of. I've bought a kit from AutoLink for Cambelt, but it didn't mention the rocker cover gasket. It's due to arrive today so I will purchase additionally if it's not there

snotrag

14,831 posts

217 months

Tuesday 3rd December 2013
quotequote all
Fuel filter always gets forgotten/left off, so well worth doing.

Drain the system pressure by starting the car, then pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and allow it to stall. Its possible to do if your smart without losiing more than a cupful or so of fuel, but you WILL get it all over you!

eltax91

Original Poster:

10,014 posts

212 months

Tuesday 3rd December 2013
quotequote all
snotrag said:
Fuel filter always gets forgotten/left off, so well worth doing.

Drain the system pressure by starting the car, then pulling the fuse for the fuel pump and allow it to stall. Its possible to do if your smart without losiing more than a cupful or so of fuel, but you WILL get it all over you!
Fuel filter is in my cupboard already. I have a guide which shows the above, but it's the last job I'm going to do, don't want an airlock convincing me the timing is out.... This will be my first ever attempt at a cambelt change

MX-5 Lazza

7,952 posts

225 months

Tuesday 3rd December 2013
quotequote all
Mk2 fuel filter isn't as simple as Mk1 as Mk2 uses fuel line clips instead of the simple push-on hoses of the Mk1. You need a special too to get them off cleanly and even then it's easy to break the clips.

eltax91

Original Poster:

10,014 posts

212 months

Tuesday 3rd December 2013
quotequote all
MX-5 Lazza said:
Mk2 fuel filter isn't as simple as Mk1 as Mk2 uses fuel line clips instead of the simple push-on hoses of the Mk1. You need a special too to get them off cleanly and even then it's easy to break the clips.
Hmmm. That one may well go to the trusted indy when the rest of the work is done then

buzzer

3,544 posts

246 months

Wednesday 4th December 2013
quotequote all
I would also remove the pads and lube them in the carriers... I also use small syringe (no needle) and inject a bit of brake fluid under the dust seals and push the pistons back in if I know they are all good and no pitting on the pistons.

On a full service on a car I have just acquired, I remove the callipers, strip and rebuild them with new rubber grease, replacing seals if needed.

I also change the brake fluid, and clutch fluid.

Check the rubber boot on the slave cylinder to see if its leaking, they are a bit prone.

As already said, change the water pump, but buy a good one, I have seen some cheap Chinese rubbish just lately...






buzzer

3,544 posts

246 months

Wednesday 4th December 2013
quotequote all
If I was removing the cam cover, I would also replace the "O" ring on the cam sensor... they always leak and are only a few pence. With the cam cover off they are dead easy to replace.