Discussion
Hello all knowledgeable ones, sorry for the question as i know it has been done before but i am looking to buy a car for road/track use, what should i pay for car with between 40 to 50k, average spec and condition.
Also any cars currently on PH that i should avoid?
Thanks in advance
Droop Snoop
Also any cars currently on PH that i should avoid?
Thanks in advance
Droop Snoop
If you're going for a 40-50k miler I wouldn't go much above 25k even through a dealer.there's way to many with lower milage floating around 29-30k. Are you looking for a lower priced one for price reasons alone or have you got am eye on one on particular? I only ask because when I was looking for mine I looked at a few high milage examples & they were all pretty ruff. Having said that just follow the usual rules & buy on condition-if it looks dodgy it probably is dodgy!
Keep an eye on those prices though, they do seem to have krept up over the last few months-the track season beckons!
Keep an eye on those prices though, they do seem to have krept up over the last few months-the track season beckons!
Thanks for reply, thats what i thought.
I really didnt want to pay more than 25k max which is why i was looking at cars with up to 50k.
It will get a mixture of road use and regular track use so finding a straight car with honest history is more important to me than finding one thats polished every week.
Have spoken to a few private car owners that are for sale on PH via e-mail and they seem prepared to shave a few k off advertised prices.
May go and see black car with AP's up for 27k, known to anyone?
I really didnt want to pay more than 25k max which is why i was looking at cars with up to 50k.
It will get a mixture of road use and regular track use so finding a straight car with honest history is more important to me than finding one thats polished every week.
Have spoken to a few private car owners that are for sale on PH via e-mail and they seem prepared to shave a few k off advertised prices.
May go and see black car with AP's up for 27k, known to anyone?
Rags said:
£22-23k---->60k miles +
£24-£26k-----> 40- 50kmiles +
Having sold my 60k miler privately within the last week the figures stack up, if not a little on the light side. £24-£26k-----> 40- 50kmiles +
Maybe for a good condition car with a/c (as mine was) say £22k to £24k for 60k miles and £24k to £26k for a 50k mile car. Expect to pay £1k to £2k more from a dealer.
S.
Tyres:
Wear was pretty good although the n/s/f tore across centre of tread, i think mainly because they were brand new and had not done any heat cycles (tyres arrived 3hrs before leaving for Silverstone).
Geo:
Going to give the rear some toe in (parallel at moment), try and drop the front a bit more if possible and a bit more neg cam (close on 2 degrees at present), may also look at toe on the front?
This should get rid of a fair bit of the understeer but with a price to pay on road use tyre wear.
I think the car is a stunning piece of kit for road and track work.
Whats your thought on running 18 inch wheels, John at Thorney reckons the cars are better on track with these, they can be lighter and the tyres are cheaper (although the car looks so good on CSL rims!)?
Good to meet you the other evening and yes good fun, kept turning traction off but forgot the sport button most of the time (silly bugger), will be at Mallory 6th June and Brands 24th June.
Droop Snoop
Wear was pretty good although the n/s/f tore across centre of tread, i think mainly because they were brand new and had not done any heat cycles (tyres arrived 3hrs before leaving for Silverstone).
Geo:
Going to give the rear some toe in (parallel at moment), try and drop the front a bit more if possible and a bit more neg cam (close on 2 degrees at present), may also look at toe on the front?
This should get rid of a fair bit of the understeer but with a price to pay on road use tyre wear.
I think the car is a stunning piece of kit for road and track work.
Whats your thought on running 18 inch wheels, John at Thorney reckons the cars are better on track with these, they can be lighter and the tyres are cheaper (although the car looks so good on CSL rims!)?
Good to meet you the other evening and yes good fun, kept turning traction off but forgot the sport button most of the time (silly bugger), will be at Mallory 6th June and Brands 24th June.
Droop Snoop
Hey fella...
Glad your enjoying it..! TMS are re-doing the geo on mine monday morning..
I run mine pretty low as you noticed.. but it depends where you live and how many speed bumps you have to navigate daily really.. I raised my front 10mm and found it did impact on the understeer, so i dropped it down again.. to where it is now when we were @ Slitherstone.. I didnt get to do the geo before tho' which is why I put both my fronts went in the skip after ..!
You should have a toe in rear end at present .. 15' usually but get it checked to know what you have to start with.... maybe try a toe out front.. John knows what works best.. but it will take a little getting used to as it is a lot more pointy and needs holding onto.. max rear neg is -1.75ish.. front is -2.0 maybe on stock turret tops..
Ref rims.. they are lighter, and you get more tyre choice on 18" rims.. flipside is its a £2K investment to get the rims.. personally I like the CSL rims.. so i have 2 sets of those..
Sport button i don't use much.. i find i can modulate the throttle better on a longer travel range.. but its individual choice and driving style here..
Are TMS doing the work for you..?
Glad your enjoying it..! TMS are re-doing the geo on mine monday morning..
I run mine pretty low as you noticed.. but it depends where you live and how many speed bumps you have to navigate daily really.. I raised my front 10mm and found it did impact on the understeer, so i dropped it down again.. to where it is now when we were @ Slitherstone.. I didnt get to do the geo before tho' which is why I put both my fronts went in the skip after ..!
You should have a toe in rear end at present .. 15' usually but get it checked to know what you have to start with.... maybe try a toe out front.. John knows what works best.. but it will take a little getting used to as it is a lot more pointy and needs holding onto.. max rear neg is -1.75ish.. front is -2.0 maybe on stock turret tops..
Ref rims.. they are lighter, and you get more tyre choice on 18" rims.. flipside is its a £2K investment to get the rims.. personally I like the CSL rims.. so i have 2 sets of those..
Sport button i don't use much.. i find i can modulate the throttle better on a longer travel range.. but its individual choice and driving style here..
Are TMS doing the work for you..?
Edited by RatBoy M3CS on Thursday 28th May 22:57
Hey Scott.. is your geo going ahead tomorrow.. I was there monday morning, my rear toing was uneven, which kinda explains some oversteery moments..but good to go now.. TMS are flat out this week on the cup cars for Brands this weekend..
I'm going to try and get to Brands at month end and we can have another go..!
I'm going to try and get to Brands at month end and we can have another go..!
Edited by RatBoy M3CS on Tuesday 2nd June 20:29
No they had to cancel and i have Mallory on Saturday (which i don't fancy anyway, going with mate who has Caterham).
I will get it done locally, spoke to John and he suggested i might get up to 2.5 neg cam on front, drop front a little more and 1 degree toe out. As for rear 1.5 to 1.8 neg cam and 1 degree toe in.
Caster?
Brands should be fun.
I will get it done locally, spoke to John and he suggested i might get up to 2.5 neg cam on front, drop front a little more and 1 degree toe out. As for rear 1.5 to 1.8 neg cam and 1 degree toe in.
Caster?
Brands should be fun.
Sorted it today.
n/s/f 2 and quarter degree neg cam (was 1.8)
o/s/f 2 degree neg cam (same)
Front toe parallel (same)
Rear toe out 1mm each side (was parallel)
Rear neg 1.5 both sides (was 1.8)
Kept ride heights the same
There are enough changes there to make a differance, see how it goes at Mallory and then can alter for Brands if needed.
n/s/f 2 and quarter degree neg cam (was 1.8)
o/s/f 2 degree neg cam (same)
Front toe parallel (same)
Rear toe out 1mm each side (was parallel)
Rear neg 1.5 both sides (was 1.8)
Kept ride heights the same
There are enough changes there to make a differance, see how it goes at Mallory and then can alter for Brands if needed.
See how you get on with it Scott, but be AWARE that with these settings it will handle differently, the steering will be similar, but influenced more by the back, so quick reflexes you will need here.. the rear will be a bit oversteery.. specially on the brakes, so be careful if you brake into the apex.. do it all in a straight line to start with.... it does help get it round the bends tho' and dial out some of the understeer on the front.. leave the traction on for a while till you get used to it..,
Warm your cups up properly tho' I use 32fr/33rr hot, you will have to reset 2wice to get them right hot..
Are you quoting total toeing or toe-per-side here..?
Geo is as much a science as much as what works best on the car, and what suits the driver.. its a bit of a black art / as much as trial and error.. so if you have to make a few changes dont be suprised.. i've done about 6 so far, slowly tuning it to what i like.. but you've seen how it corners..
Who did the geo for you..? were these their recommended track settings or your best guess / request..?
Warm your cups up properly tho' I use 32fr/33rr hot, you will have to reset 2wice to get them right hot..
Are you quoting total toeing or toe-per-side here..?
Geo is as much a science as much as what works best on the car, and what suits the driver.. its a bit of a black art / as much as trial and error.. so if you have to make a few changes dont be suprised.. i've done about 6 so far, slowly tuning it to what i like.. but you've seen how it corners..
Who did the geo for you..? were these their recommended track settings or your best guess / request..?
Edited by RatBoy M3CS on Thursday 4th June 08:47
Try it and see Scott... I had 1mm a side on the back on my last outing.. and it is quite lively..! but see how you like it..
This time I have come back to 0.5mm a side out on the back, (1.0mm) total but still with 0.8 a side toe out on the front...
See if it suits your driving style.. but it does work as you have seen, but moves around a lot more than stock as it slips..
Rear toing is effected by acceleration and brakes and it moves from +/- in and out depending on the bushes and how much the whole control arm assy flexes.
You may want to check what rear trailing arm bushes are in it.. the stock ones are not good for the track.. as they are a metalastic bush and the rear toeing goes all over the place under load.. most track cars run powerflex poly ones in the arms.. so you can lock the variable toeing down..
I have found that 10mm track spacers on the front help too, they are not expensive but you will need some longer wheel studs.. £50 the lot, the front and rear track is identical with them on.. with CSL 8.5J front offsets..
This time I have come back to 0.5mm a side out on the back, (1.0mm) total but still with 0.8 a side toe out on the front...
See if it suits your driving style.. but it does work as you have seen, but moves around a lot more than stock as it slips..
Rear toing is effected by acceleration and brakes and it moves from +/- in and out depending on the bushes and how much the whole control arm assy flexes.
You may want to check what rear trailing arm bushes are in it.. the stock ones are not good for the track.. as they are a metalastic bush and the rear toeing goes all over the place under load.. most track cars run powerflex poly ones in the arms.. so you can lock the variable toeing down..
I have found that 10mm track spacers on the front help too, they are not expensive but you will need some longer wheel studs.. £50 the lot, the front and rear track is identical with them on.. with CSL 8.5J front offsets..
Edited by RatBoy M3CS on Thursday 4th June 09:22
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