Advice please - anyone know this car
Discussion
Hi,
I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
Few things to bear in mind.
1. General condition of car, same as inspecting any other car. Expect to see a reasonable amount of stone chips (more so than most cars) as the paint is very light and people tend not to respray to keep originality.
2. Try and get one as original as possible. If it has been modified cosmetically or mechanically then make sure originals come with sale.
3. Make sure it has a warranty repeat make sure it has a warranty.
4. Make sure it's had it's running in service. Crucial for resale.
5. You hear a lot of owners getting hung up on milege, the most important thing though is same as any other car, make sure it feels tight.
6. Check tyre wear. If it is on cups replacemnt set (4) is around 1200k.
7. Don't listen to the Saphire black owner's the Silver grey ones are faster!
8. Any other advice you can see on the buyers guide on CSLREGISTERDOTCOM.
You won't regret it
1. General condition of car, same as inspecting any other car. Expect to see a reasonable amount of stone chips (more so than most cars) as the paint is very light and people tend not to respray to keep originality.
2. Try and get one as original as possible. If it has been modified cosmetically or mechanically then make sure originals come with sale.
3. Make sure it has a warranty repeat make sure it has a warranty.
4. Make sure it's had it's running in service. Crucial for resale.
5. You hear a lot of owners getting hung up on milege, the most important thing though is same as any other car, make sure it feels tight.
6. Check tyre wear. If it is on cups replacemnt set (4) is around 1200k.
7. Don't listen to the Saphire black owner's the Silver grey ones are faster!
8. Any other advice you can see on the buyers guide on CSLREGISTERDOTCOM.
You won't regret it
[quote=Shake&Bake]Few things to bear in mind.
1. General condition of car, same as inspecting any other car. Expect to see a reasonable amount of stone chips (more so than most cars) as the paint is very light and people tend not to respray to keep originality.
2. Try and get one as original as possible. If it has been modified cosmetically or mechanically then make sure originals come with sale.
3. Make sure it has a warranty repeat make sure it has a warranty.
4. Make sure it's had it's running in service. Crucial for resale.
5. You hear a lot of owners getting hung up on milege, the most important thing though is same as any other car, make sure it feels tight.
6. Check tyre wear. If it is on cups replacemnt set (4) is around 1200k.
7. Don't listen to the Saphire black owner's the Silver grey ones are faster!
8. Any other advice you can see on the buyers guide on CSLREGISTERDOTCOM.
You won't regret it
[/quote]
When you say "make sure it has a warranty"......Should the car have a BMW warranty or an aftermarket one?
1. General condition of car, same as inspecting any other car. Expect to see a reasonable amount of stone chips (more so than most cars) as the paint is very light and people tend not to respray to keep originality.
2. Try and get one as original as possible. If it has been modified cosmetically or mechanically then make sure originals come with sale.
3. Make sure it has a warranty repeat make sure it has a warranty.
4. Make sure it's had it's running in service. Crucial for resale.
5. You hear a lot of owners getting hung up on milege, the most important thing though is same as any other car, make sure it feels tight.
6. Check tyre wear. If it is on cups replacemnt set (4) is around 1200k.
7. Don't listen to the Saphire black owner's the Silver grey ones are faster!
8. Any other advice you can see on the buyers guide on CSLREGISTERDOTCOM.
You won't regret it
[/quote]
When you say "make sure it has a warranty"......Should the car have a BMW warranty or an aftermarket one?
The BMW warranty is the preferred warranty as it is a fully comprehensive one. It's just a piece of mind factor that someone has bothered to pay 600-1000 a year to renew it. You would hope that they then would not scrimp on other aspects of the car servicing etc.
One other point there were a number of recalls done for the CSL just make sure that this car has had them. Off the top of my head I cant recall them all but there is a listing of them on the register.
One other point there were a number of recalls done for the CSL just make sure that this car has had them. Off the top of my head I cant recall them all but there is a listing of them on the register.
Saw it back in August 2008. The car looks pretty straight, front bumper had been painted at some point, had Contis fitted and also had a pretty late running in service. However, main thing that put me off was the fact that the rear bumper was a standard M3 bumper in carbon black rather than the CSL sapphire black bumper with the carbon fibre lip / diffuser over the exhaust section.
Edited by e..uncle..hello on Tuesday 31st March 12:32
e..uncle..hello said:
Saw it back in August 2008. The car looks pretty straight, front bumper had been painted at some point, had Contis fitted and also had a pretty late running in service. However, main thing that put me off was the fact that the rear bumper was a standard M3 bumper in carbon black rather than the CSL sapphire black bumper with the carbon fibre lip / diffuser over the exhaust section.
2 things to take from this.Edited by e..uncle..hello on Tuesday 31st March 12:32
It has been in some sort of bother, either a rear end shunt or a bumper scuff. I would imagien something to render the bumper irrepairable - unless of course someone nicked it?
But why be so lazy and stick on the wrong colour bumper? Barmy!
mmm...not sure that the rear bumper is wrong?! I saw the car again today and it has all the usual carbon fibre bits around the pipes etc. It is still on Contis and, yes, the running in service was not done until 2000 miles so a little late but after advice on this from a respected indy I did the deal!!!
5 wh said:
bromers2 said:
It's now possibly get a BMW warranty even if it currently doesn't have one - think it needs a FBMWSH though.
I didnt think a BMW warranty could be reinstated on a CSL?(ie once its run out they will not put it back on again if there has been a period without it)AA121 said:
Hi,
I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
Assume you understand how to check for normal things like damage right, sooooo only CSL specific things:I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
These cars are starting to get old now so get underneath and see if any corrosion on parts (one I looked at recently was pretty poor compared to one I P/X last year despite same mileage and age).
Take your time and check the service book, make sure the stamps add up with the age, don't be frightened to call the dealership that has stamped if anything looks suspect.
Take it for a run, make sure the SMG works well (smooth changes under power), there may be a little clutch slippage at high speed change ups but only should be minor. Should engage 1st and R smoothly though, do this a couple of times and listen for any clunks in the diff (can get a little fragile with use).
Check the carbon roof carefully as they pick up stone chips along the leading edge, can be sorted but it's a good negotiation point.
Check the front Carbon Paddle inserts in the spoiler, in good condition? These wear badly and aftermarket examples sit poorly in the spoiler.
Check for warped discs if on standard items.
What tyres? Cups are best and anything else is a negotiation point.
Does it have the plaque fitted?
Condition of the plastic around the seats? These are really prone to scratches.
Check operation of the Sport button, mainly on operating the intake flap. Drive at around 2000rpm accelerate to around 4000rpm. Then try again with sport button engaged, noise and responsiveness should be improved.
Print out this and other posts people have done and take your time to check off each thing.
Suspension can wear, springs can snap but that's all hard to check out unless you ramp the car. Best thing you can do is drive it and see how it feels, perhaps there's a CSL owner who can visit with you, worth an ask.
All other things have been covered.
Personally I think these cars are very tough so you should be okay.
AA121 said:
mmm...not sure that the rear bumper is wrong?! I saw the car again today and it has all the usual carbon fibre bits around the pipes etc. It is still on Contis and, yes, the running in service was not done until 2000 miles so a little late but after advice on this from a respected indy I did the deal!!!
BM warranties can be reinstated but not on a 2000 mile first service. 1200 plus or minus 300 is the norm, although if you have it in writing, some people claim 1700 is okay...Nords said:
AA121 said:
mmm...not sure that the rear bumper is wrong?! I saw the car again today and it has all the usual carbon fibre bits around the pipes etc. It is still on Contis and, yes, the running in service was not done until 2000 miles so a little late but after advice on this from a respected indy I did the deal!!!
BM warranties can be reinstated but not on a 2000 mile first service. 1200 plus or minus 300 is the norm, although if you have it in writing, some people claim 1700 is okay...Yes, obvuiously run a mile from a car without a 1200 mile service.
However, all this talk about + / - 1200 is not an official stance. No where are the parameters set in stone.
My 1200 mile service is 1800 and I have it in writing from BMW that this is acceptable. In addition, it has been sold twice as an AUC car and has also had a Vanos replaced.
robm3 said:
AA121 said:
Hi,
I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
Assume you understand how to check for normal things like damage right, sooooo only CSL specific things:I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
These cars are starting to get old now so get underneath and see if any corrosion on parts (one I looked at recently was pretty poor compared to one I P/X last year despite same mileage and age).
Take your time and check the service book, make sure the stamps add up with the age, don't be frightened to call the dealership that has stamped if anything looks suspect.
Take it for a run, make sure the SMG works well (smooth changes under power), there may be a little clutch slippage at high speed change ups but only should be minor. Should engage 1st and R smoothly though, do this a couple of times and listen for any clunks in the diff (can get a little fragile with use).
Check the carbon roof carefully as they pick up stone chips along the leading edge, can be sorted but it's a good negotiation point.
Check the front Carbon Paddle inserts in the spoiler, in good condition? These wear badly and aftermarket examples sit poorly in the spoiler.
Check for warped discs if on standard items.
What tyres? Cups are best and anything else is a negotiation point.
Does it have the plaque fitted?
Condition of the plastic around the seats? These are really prone to scratches.
Check operation of the Sport button, mainly on operating the intake flap. Drive at around 2000rpm accelerate to around 4000rpm. Then try again with sport button engaged, noise and responsiveness should be improved.
Print out this and other posts people have done and take your time to check off each thing.
Suspension can wear, springs can snap but that's all hard to check out unless you ramp the car. Best thing you can do is drive it and see how it feels, perhaps there's a CSL owner who can visit with you, worth an ask.
All other things have been covered.
Personally I think these cars are very tough so you should be okay.
1) The M Diff clunks are quite prevalent on a lot of the SMG cars. I must have driven over 20 SMG M3's and CSL's and not one has ever sounded 'non' mechanical. Granted, diffs can 'go' but IMO, some noise is only natural.
2) Tyres? How is not having Cups a negotiation point? Unless the person has got Chinese Ditchfinders or LingLongs, this isn't really a negotiation point. Granted, if the tread is terrible, then yes.
My advice to people is always, Cups for the track, Standard PS2's, Contis, Godoyears for the road. Some 'track gurus' may disagree but have you ever driven with cups on cold, camp, wet roads? Not much fun at all IMO. Unless your car is solely for 'track use'
3) The Plaques were not supplied with the cars so its difficult to understand the relevance of this with respect to a sale - It is a nice to have but not having one does not point to negligence from a previous owner. If it has that pathetic piece of metal, then great. But IMO, is a nice touch but wouldn't / shouldn't affect a sale.
Rags
Rags said:
Nords said:
AA121 said:
mmm...not sure that the rear bumper is wrong?! I saw the car again today and it has all the usual carbon fibre bits around the pipes etc. It is still on Contis and, yes, the running in service was not done until 2000 miles so a little late but after advice on this from a respected indy I did the deal!!!
BM warranties can be reinstated but not on a 2000 mile first service. 1200 plus or minus 300 is the norm, although if you have it in writing, some people claim 1700 is okay...Yes, obvuiously run a mile from a car without a 1200 mile service.
However, all this talk about + / - 1200 is not an official stance. No where are the parameters set in stone.
My 1200 mile service is 1800 and I have it in writing from BMW that this is acceptable. In addition, it has been sold twice as an AUC car and has also had a Vanos replaced.
Edit to say, I was incorrect above, BM normally say 1200 plus or minus 500, not 300...
Edited by Nords on Saturday 11th April 11:05
Rags said:
e..uncle..hello said:
Saw it back in August 2008. The car looks pretty straight, front bumper had been painted at some point, had Contis fitted and also had a pretty late running in service. However, main thing that put me off was the fact that the rear bumper was a standard M3 bumper in carbon black rather than the CSL sapphire black bumper with the carbon fibre lip / diffuser over the exhaust section.
2 things to take from this.Edited by e..uncle..hello on Tuesday 31st March 12:32
It has been in some sort of bother, either a rear end shunt or a bumper scuff. I would imagien something to render the bumper irrepairable - unless of course someone nicked it?
But why be so lazy and stick on the wrong colour bumper? Barmy!
Edited by Mark83 on Friday 17th April 22:22
Rags said:
robm3 said:
AA121 said:
Hi,
I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
Assume you understand how to check for normal things like damage right, sooooo only CSL specific things:I'm thinking of changing out of my 993 Porsche and into something newer. A CSL has caught my eye at Wimbledon Carriage Company and I wondered if anyone out there knows this particular car and can offer some general advice when purchasing one of these?
Any advice and info greatly appreciated.
These cars are starting to get old now so get underneath and see if any corrosion on parts (one I looked at recently was pretty poor compared to one I P/X last year despite same mileage and age).
Take your time and check the service book, make sure the stamps add up with the age, don't be frightened to call the dealership that has stamped if anything looks suspect.
Take it for a run, make sure the SMG works well (smooth changes under power), there may be a little clutch slippage at high speed change ups but only should be minor. Should engage 1st and R smoothly though, do this a couple of times and listen for any clunks in the diff (can get a little fragile with use).
Check the carbon roof carefully as they pick up stone chips along the leading edge, can be sorted but it's a good negotiation point.
Check the front Carbon Paddle inserts in the spoiler, in good condition? These wear badly and aftermarket examples sit poorly in the spoiler.
Check for warped discs if on standard items.
What tyres? Cups are best and anything else is a negotiation point.
Does it have the plaque fitted?
Condition of the plastic around the seats? These are really prone to scratches.
Check operation of the Sport button, mainly on operating the intake flap. Drive at around 2000rpm accelerate to around 4000rpm. Then try again with sport button engaged, noise and responsiveness should be improved.
Print out this and other posts people have done and take your time to check off each thing.
Suspension can wear, springs can snap but that's all hard to check out unless you ramp the car. Best thing you can do is drive it and see how it feels, perhaps there's a CSL owner who can visit with you, worth an ask.
All other things have been covered.
Personally I think these cars are very tough so you should be okay.
1) The M Diff clunks are quite prevalent on a lot of the SMG cars. I must have driven over 20 SMG M3's and CSL's and not one has ever sounded 'non' mechanical. Granted, diffs can 'go' but IMO, some noise is only natural.
2) Tyres? How is not having Cups a negotiation point? Unless the person has got Chinese Ditchfinders or LingLongs, this isn't really a negotiation point. Granted, if the tread is terrible, then yes.
My advice to people is always, Cups for the track, Standard PS2's, Contis, Godoyears for the road. Some 'track gurus' may disagree but have you ever driven with cups on cold, camp, wet roads? Not much fun at all IMO. Unless your car is solely for 'track use'
3) The Plaques were not supplied with the cars so its difficult to understand the relevance of this with respect to a sale - It is a nice to have but not having one does not point to negligence from a previous owner. If it has that pathetic piece of metal, then great. But IMO, is a nice touch but wouldn't / shouldn't affect a sale.
Rags
RE the diff, I had one replaced under warranty so only speaking from my experience.
Gassing Station | CSL | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff