E36 Evo advice - trackday fun?
Discussion
Thinking of selling my Chimaera and going for an e36 evo coupe for a weekend and trackday fun car. I went to look at a convertible evo last weekend but it did seem to suffer from a bit of scuttle shake so the coupe is probably the one to go for in my eyes.
I'm fully aware of the possible Vanos issues and I'm after the SMG model (yes, I'm fully aware that it's not as good as the SMG 2 box)
Question is, how do these cars hold up on a track? For example, a guy at work used his Mitsubishi Evo on a trackday and managed to get through a set of tyres, brake pads and discs. Also managed to burn all the paint of the calipers they were so hot! (but I imagine most of this was probably over-spirited driving on his part).....
I'm fully aware of the possible Vanos issues and I'm after the SMG model (yes, I'm fully aware that it's not as good as the SMG 2 box)
Question is, how do these cars hold up on a track? For example, a guy at work used his Mitsubishi Evo on a trackday and managed to get through a set of tyres, brake pads and discs. Also managed to burn all the paint of the calipers they were so hot! (but I imagine most of this was probably over-spirited driving on his part).....
it depends on your balance of road and track usage.
the car in standard trim is fairly heavy which takes its toll on the tyres and brakes. you can lighten it but then you lose some of the road comfort.
ive driven mine on road, track, nurburbring and its a great all rounder- a hard to beat all rounder for the money but in standard form i dont think its the greatest track car. i could spend some cash on it to 'spice' things up a tad on track but for me, the all round capability of the car is its best feature.
the car in standard trim is fairly heavy which takes its toll on the tyres and brakes. you can lighten it but then you lose some of the road comfort.
ive driven mine on road, track, nurburbring and its a great all rounder- a hard to beat all rounder for the money but in standard form i dont think its the greatest track car. i could spend some cash on it to 'spice' things up a tad on track but for me, the all round capability of the car is its best feature.
BagOfOldRats said:
Question is, how do these cars hold up on a track? For example, a guy at work used his Mitsubishi Evo on a trackday and managed to get through a set of tyres, brake pads and discs. Also managed to burn all the paint of the calipers they were so hot! (but I imagine most of this was probably over-spirited driving on his part).....
I tracked mine last October at croft and it was fine, all I did was put some Mintex fast road pads in and change the brake fluid to dot5.1 and just did about 5 laps at a time to stop the front left tyre from overheating Mine is a dedicated track car and it's great. It does take a bit of upgrading (suspension, brakes) but it is huge fun. Just go to the 'Ring and look around the car park to see what the weapon of choice is for those who don't want to track a 911. A million miles better than a Mitsi Evo for two reasons - correct wheel drive and that gorgeous engine. Go for it!
kinetic said:
In standard form the Mitsubishi EVO 6 is a way better track car! If you can put up with the image and constantly replacing the brake discs!
I don't agree with that at all, having owned and tracked both the 6 is not way better, in fact the E36 is more rewarding as it's the driver that controls it and not some fancy electronics.
I was @ Goodwood today in my Z4MC and came close to doing the same so you have my commiserations 
With regards to answering the OP, I think you have to weigh up several factors here but most importantly it comes down to budget, how much track experience you have, your driving style and how often you honestly think you will use it. The good thing about these cars is that there is a wealth of information on what and how to modify for all levels of track use and a sea of aftermarket and s/h parts on offer, there is not much out there to better it.
With regards to answering the OP, I think you have to weigh up several factors here but most importantly it comes down to budget, how much track experience you have, your driving style and how often you honestly think you will use it. The good thing about these cars is that there is a wealth of information on what and how to modify for all levels of track use and a sea of aftermarket and s/h parts on offer, there is not much out there to better it.
They can make good track cars, but you'll find that the suspension and brakes will let it down somewhat.
Most E36s are over 100k miles now, and the standard suspension even when boxfresh isn't quite firm enough for track work. A decent set of springs and dampers, or coilovers, will sort that.
The next area is the brakes. Standard pads will fade, and pretty quickly. It's a fairly chunky car so they've got a lot of weight to haul down. Unless you want to blow big £££ on a BBK, I'd suggest sticking with OEM discs (and make sure they're genuine and vented), but upgrade the pads. There's much debate over which pads are best, but my recommendation would be the Pagid RS29s - awesome on road and track but a little noisy.
You can stiffen the chassis further with the x-brace from a convertible. This makes more of a difference than fitting a top strut brace, and can be had from a breakers for £40ish.
Other than that, you can strip it to save some weight but personally I wouldn't bother unless it is a dedicated track car.
Most E36s are over 100k miles now, and the standard suspension even when boxfresh isn't quite firm enough for track work. A decent set of springs and dampers, or coilovers, will sort that.
The next area is the brakes. Standard pads will fade, and pretty quickly. It's a fairly chunky car so they've got a lot of weight to haul down. Unless you want to blow big £££ on a BBK, I'd suggest sticking with OEM discs (and make sure they're genuine and vented), but upgrade the pads. There's much debate over which pads are best, but my recommendation would be the Pagid RS29s - awesome on road and track but a little noisy.
You can stiffen the chassis further with the x-brace from a convertible. This makes more of a difference than fitting a top strut brace, and can be had from a breakers for £40ish.
Other than that, you can strip it to save some weight but personally I wouldn't bother unless it is a dedicated track car.
IMO the M3 evo isn't a first choice of a track car in standard form. I tracked by standard Evo and there was far to much body roll, to the point i didn't really enjoy it, nearly spun the first time i cam through Druids and Brands Hatch. Cooked the brakes and could only get 10 laps out of them before having to come in a cool them off.
I would look for the following qualities in a trackcar.
Lightweight
Handles well
and good brakes
I would have thought something like a integra type r would be better on the track for the money as a standard car.
I would look for the following qualities in a trackcar.
Lightweight
Handles well
and good brakes
I would have thought something like a integra type r would be better on the track for the money as a standard car.
I hear the saloon has a stiffer shell than the coupe and I'll bet they are cheaper to buy. Something to bear in mind if tracking.
Put some uprated springs & shocks on it and decent pads & fluid and it will be fine on the track - at the end of the day it is a heavyish road car, but you can still have good fun on track whilst keeping it reasonably civilised for the road.
Cheers,
Put some uprated springs & shocks on it and decent pads & fluid and it will be fine on the track - at the end of the day it is a heavyish road car, but you can still have good fun on track whilst keeping it reasonably civilised for the road.
Cheers,
dan101smith said:
MarkM3Evoplus said:
I hear the saloon has a stiffer shell than the coupe and I'll bet they are cheaper to buy. Something to bear in mind if tracking.
Negligable difference by all accounts, but can be cheaper to buy.GTWayne said:
dan101smith said:
MarkM3Evoplus said:
I hear the saloon has a stiffer shell than the coupe and I'll bet they are cheaper to buy. Something to bear in mind if tracking.
Negligable difference by all accounts, but can be cheaper to buy.MarkM3Evoplus said:
I hear the saloon has a stiffer shell than the coupe and I'll bet they are cheaper to buy. Something to bear in mind if tracking.
I've hard the same. And yes, they're cheaper due to being less desirable, but there's not that many about so you could be a while finding one.ASBO said:
GTWayne said:
dan101smith said:
MarkM3Evoplus said:
I hear the saloon has a stiffer shell than the coupe and I'll bet they are cheaper to buy. Something to bear in mind if tracking.
Negligable difference by all accounts, but can be cheaper to buy.
Yeh, you are right, of COURSE the coupe has a B post ( and I actually own one of these cars ) I honestly don't know what I was thinking when I typed that tosh, I must have been in a trance or something?, Sorry 
dan101smith said:
The extra stifness is meant to be mostly from the fact that almost all saloons don't have folding rear seats, and so the bulkhead behind the seat back adds to the stiffness.
But, having owned both, there's really nothing in it.
and nothing a rear strut brace wouldn't sort out But, having owned both, there's really nothing in it.
Gassing Station | M Power | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff