Few Q's with regards to E39 M5
Discussion
I went for a test drive yesterday for the first time in one of these magnificent machines but have a few questions. The car i was looking at has done 91k but has had a full main dealer service history, Is it possible to contact BMW with the car details to find out what work has been done ? Also the gear change felt notchy, I am not sure if this is how they all are or there is more behind this. I was only out for 15-20 mins so would this become less as the fluids heated up ? to give you some idea of how warm the engine was i cuould only rev to 6000 rpm as it was still not warmed properly.
Apart from that the M5 is going to be my next car, what a car......
Thanks
Apart from that the M5 is going to be my next car, what a car......
Thanks
BMW customer services will be able to tell you everything about the car from the supplying dealer and original spec, to all maintenance and warranty work that has been carried out by any BMW dealer.
The gearbox can be notch and obstructive when cold, but should free up a bit as the car warms through, although to be honest it's not the slickest of boxes even when fully warmed up.
Good luck with the purchase. Buy a properly looked after and maintained one and you won't regret it for one second.
The gearbox can be notch and obstructive when cold, but should free up a bit as the car warms through, although to be honest it's not the slickest of boxes even when fully warmed up.
Good luck with the purchase. Buy a properly looked after and maintained one and you won't regret it for one second.
As stated, the box can be notchy when cold - but this should be gone within 15-20 mintes.
The car should have warmed up enough for you to exceed 6000 rpm in that time. The rev restriction is normally gone in under ten minutes, even if it remains advisable to allow oil temperature to go higher before giving the car maximum welly.
The car should have warmed up enough for you to exceed 6000 rpm in that time. The rev restriction is normally gone in under ten minutes, even if it remains advisable to allow oil temperature to go higher before giving the car maximum welly.
I have had a chat to all of the dealers and they have confirmed the mileage and all Oil + Fluid service's. I was also told that the clutch was looked at in Mar05(59k) and May06(78k). They could not tell me if it was replaced ? Could i reasonably expect the clutch to have been replaced once during this time ? if so when should I be looking for it to need replacing again ? Also there was not a mention of any VANOS issue's, Should I expect to have seen some work done (its a 51 plate) ?
Having a look at another car this weekend but with 42k. How much significance should I place on mileage ? This one came out of the approved used in 2003 and looks to have a mixture of main dealer and indy servicing since then. I have also just found out that it was an import from germany, Will this make a difference ?
Edited by maddernj on Tuesday 26th February 11:22
I have a German import, well at least it had the PDi stamped at a German garage.
It is not an issue for a UK dealer when servicing or buying parts.
All a BMW dealer requires is the last 7 chassis digits and then you can verify the servicing through that dealer.
I bought mine - a 2001 model with 62k miles and absolutely full UK main dealer service history with every reciept kept by previous owner even down to when the key fob batteries were replaced !
The most important thing to me was body condition, I wanted a truly original car that had not been repaired or painted ever.
I looked at lesser mileage cars and more mileage cars and to be honest if the car has been serviced correctly and on time if you were to blank out the odometer you would probably struggle to tell during a test drive which had more miles as these beasts can take it !
A lot has been written on here and various other forums regarding clutches and vanos issues, but if the car has been warmed up properly and driven sensibly then these should not be major issue.
Ask the owner for evidence of regular chassis alignment, is it riding on well branded tyres, how much and what grade of oil is being used are all indicators of cars that may have been poorly maintained if the owner is not forth coming with the info.
It is not an issue for a UK dealer when servicing or buying parts.
All a BMW dealer requires is the last 7 chassis digits and then you can verify the servicing through that dealer.
I bought mine - a 2001 model with 62k miles and absolutely full UK main dealer service history with every reciept kept by previous owner even down to when the key fob batteries were replaced !
The most important thing to me was body condition, I wanted a truly original car that had not been repaired or painted ever.
I looked at lesser mileage cars and more mileage cars and to be honest if the car has been serviced correctly and on time if you were to blank out the odometer you would probably struggle to tell during a test drive which had more miles as these beasts can take it !
A lot has been written on here and various other forums regarding clutches and vanos issues, but if the car has been warmed up properly and driven sensibly then these should not be major issue.
Ask the owner for evidence of regular chassis alignment, is it riding on well branded tyres, how much and what grade of oil is being used are all indicators of cars that may have been poorly maintained if the owner is not forth coming with the info.
maddernj said:
I have had a chat to all of the dealers and they have confirmed the mileage and all Oil + Fluid service's. I was also told that the clutch was looked at in Mar05(59k) and May06(78k). They could not tell me if it was replaced ? Could i reasonably expect the clutch to have been replaced once during this time ? if so when should I be looking for it to need replacing again ? Also there was not a mention of any VANOS issue's, Should I expect to have seen some work done (its a 51 plate) ?
Clutches typically go between 50,000 and 60,000 miles, so yes you would expoect at least one replacement in that time.VANOS failure are not common on this engine (it is much more common with double VANOS six cylinder engines) and even less common on facelift cars, whioh had a modification.
Good advice given about looking for signs of economising. Ask to see the oil they use for topping up. Any responsible owner will have a litre of this very expensive stuff. Someone trying too skimp won't have any and will be topping up with cheap stuff.
Fitting pattern parts is another sign, especially with a late model. I wouldn't buy a car without a main dealer history, I appreciate that there are good independents and rubbish main dealers but I do not like to buy expensive cars where the owner has obviously tried to make economies.
Eventually, independent servicing will be fine for all the E39s, but I'm not sure that's the case yet for the later cars with average miles.
Well i have put a deposit down on a car this afternoon. 2001 (Y) Black 47k miles. felt clean and tight, will be paying just over £15k. It has one inspection light left so will need a service soon. It was part of the Approved used netwok until 2003. Feeling quite pleased with myself and am now looking forward to a grown up car. My local independant is Bexley Motor Works, I think i will be taking into them to get the service done + gearbox + diff fluids changed. Are they any good ?
Edited by maddernj on Sunday 2nd March 14:37
9mm said:
....Good advice given about looking for signs of economising. Ask to see the oil they use for topping up. Any responsible owner will have a litre of this very expensive stuff. Someone trying too skimp won't have any and will be topping up with cheap stuff....
You are confusing 'economising' for skimping and/or mistreatment. I am currently looking for an E39 M, and will certainly be economising, getting all my repairs done at the one of the cheapest places in the country, my garage. So there wont be stamps proving I payed £xxx per (rushed) hour at a building who pay to have a roundel on the wall, but instead will have everything done way before it needs to be, completed with the utmost care and time taken to do the job.Problem is that I have to find a keeper as most buyers regard 'home maintenance' as just getting an MOT done and hoping it doesn't fall apart before the next one...
Well i cannot get the smile off my face, I have just spoken to Admiral who have informed me thats is only £300 to change cars. Bearing in mind that i still have 11 1/2 months to run and I am 29 and living in London £900 for my insurance is a bargin. Also the previous owner has informed me that he will put the car through an oil service and pre delivery check for me...Any extra costs to be negotiated. I feel pretty pleased. Roll on next week !
E38 said:
9mm said:
....Good advice given about looking for signs of economising. Ask to see the oil they use for topping up. Any responsible owner will have a litre of this very expensive stuff. Someone trying too skimp won't have any and will be topping up with cheap stuff....
You are confusing 'economising' for skimping and/or mistreatment.I can quite understand anyone wishing to avoid spending any more than they have to. Most of the time, the line is clear and I'm just suggesting to the op that they check that the linkage I referred to earlier has not occurred.
Non-spec oil, pattern parts and overdue servicing are examples of skimping and cars that have received such treatment should be avoided. Independent servicing is quite different and I would go so far as to say that main agent servicing eventually becomes a bad idea with almost any car.
Before i pick the car up tomorrow the below have been highlighted to me :
· Rear differential seals have slight leaks – will need replacing
· PAS Cap seal has slight leak
· Front brake pads will probably need doing at next service
· Engine breather hoses will need replacing – will improve engine running if done
Any idea how much all of this will be ?
· Rear differential seals have slight leaks – will need replacing
· PAS Cap seal has slight leak
· Front brake pads will probably need doing at next service
· Engine breather hoses will need replacing – will improve engine running if done
Any idea how much all of this will be ?
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