buying an E39 M5 - newbie advice required!
Discussion
hi guys,
apologies in advance for the newbie generalist question, but want to make sure I get the right car - budget is up to around 17k but 15k would be better!
all general M5 buying tips are gratefully received but specifically:
What are the killer features to look for?
What's to be avoided?
Does it come with the bet suspension as standard?
A chance to show off your M5 knowledge gaining pistonheads kudos and and help me out at the same time
Thanks in advance, am looking forward to joining the club
apologies in advance for the newbie generalist question, but want to make sure I get the right car - budget is up to around 17k but 15k would be better!
all general M5 buying tips are gratefully received but specifically:
What are the killer features to look for?
What's to be avoided?
Does it come with the bet suspension as standard?
A chance to show off your M5 knowledge gaining pistonheads kudos and and help me out at the same time
Thanks in advance, am looking forward to joining the club
Look for:
Rattle on startup: could be a failing Vanos unit
general hunting around the idle: anything from the mass air metres to O2 sensors
ABS sensors: relatively cheap to repair
Check the model build does it require 10W60 or 10W30? <June 2000 it's the 10W60: more expensive
Check the service history - no gaps are rather important on this model
Check the water temperature - not too high and make sure the secondary fan comes on. It's not expensive to repair but can cause the car to overheat if not working
check the mirrors - do they both lift - no delays and check they are equally noisy. Difference could be that one is failing. These are VERY expensive if bought from BMW
Check the mirror dips. They loose their liquid and really, you don't want to ask the price..
Check the tracking. These cars are a PITA to track and a KDS does not always settle the problem
ARBs' break if driven hard
Make sure you engage sports mode. If you don't feel a differnce in both steering feel and throttle response - walk away. Ther former could be a new rack, the latter something as simple as the MAFs
Missing pixels par for the E39
Make sure the lights for the taco are all light when the endine is cold and go out when the engine warms
watch out for blue smoke when blipping throttle and white when cold
check the AC as consensors do fail
Turn the heater up all the way to 32 both sides. Makes sure the 'Auto' function works and ups the temperature accordingly. If not walk as it's a £500 fix
Check ALL THE ELECTRICS. If it has the monitor and the sat nav (which is crap by the way - all versions) then WALK as it is a serious amount to replace
Expect wear on the DS bolster. They all do this and it can be repaired with a simple liquid leather solution but cuts/tears and expensive to replace
Check the boots £700 a set and check for even wear..
(check your insurance as well - these are NOT cheap cars to insure!)
don't expect more than 13mpg in town and anything from 19 - 23mpg motorways MAX. This wil drop easily into single figures if you drive it anywhere near its potential.
And ask yourself the question, in all seriousness why you want one. They are big cars that don't handle in the same way as an M3. They eat fuel in a big way, are expensive to service and are not that reliable
Finally, the wheels, if curbed are not that easy to repair. OME are seriously expensive so if at all possible get the car up on a ramp and look for dings on the INSIDE of the rim.
Find a good one and you'll be fine. Take your time, see lots - get a feel for how they sound and drive before you commit. There are some lovely ones. There are some dogs. It's not the body or interior that's expensive - it's the engine so be careful.
Rattle on startup: could be a failing Vanos unit
general hunting around the idle: anything from the mass air metres to O2 sensors
ABS sensors: relatively cheap to repair
Check the model build does it require 10W60 or 10W30? <June 2000 it's the 10W60: more expensive
Check the service history - no gaps are rather important on this model
Check the water temperature - not too high and make sure the secondary fan comes on. It's not expensive to repair but can cause the car to overheat if not working
check the mirrors - do they both lift - no delays and check they are equally noisy. Difference could be that one is failing. These are VERY expensive if bought from BMW
Check the mirror dips. They loose their liquid and really, you don't want to ask the price..
Check the tracking. These cars are a PITA to track and a KDS does not always settle the problem
ARBs' break if driven hard
Make sure you engage sports mode. If you don't feel a differnce in both steering feel and throttle response - walk away. Ther former could be a new rack, the latter something as simple as the MAFs
Missing pixels par for the E39
Make sure the lights for the taco are all light when the endine is cold and go out when the engine warms
watch out for blue smoke when blipping throttle and white when cold
check the AC as consensors do fail
Turn the heater up all the way to 32 both sides. Makes sure the 'Auto' function works and ups the temperature accordingly. If not walk as it's a £500 fix
Check ALL THE ELECTRICS. If it has the monitor and the sat nav (which is crap by the way - all versions) then WALK as it is a serious amount to replace
Expect wear on the DS bolster. They all do this and it can be repaired with a simple liquid leather solution but cuts/tears and expensive to replace
Check the boots £700 a set and check for even wear..
(check your insurance as well - these are NOT cheap cars to insure!)
don't expect more than 13mpg in town and anything from 19 - 23mpg motorways MAX. This wil drop easily into single figures if you drive it anywhere near its potential.
And ask yourself the question, in all seriousness why you want one. They are big cars that don't handle in the same way as an M3. They eat fuel in a big way, are expensive to service and are not that reliable
Finally, the wheels, if curbed are not that easy to repair. OME are seriously expensive so if at all possible get the car up on a ramp and look for dings on the INSIDE of the rim.
Find a good one and you'll be fine. Take your time, see lots - get a feel for how they sound and drive before you commit. There are some lovely ones. There are some dogs. It's not the body or interior that's expensive - it's the engine so be careful.
As the man above says take your time, look at history and bills, not colour and extra's. Talk to specialists too, maybe a little more expensive but they will give you a warranty....of sorts. If the car has a stack of bills and a decent record the owner(s) have done their job.....but be careful of cars with too many owners and little service history. Also be careful of accident damage, especially to suspension, steering and front end repairs. Read up on buying guides from Evo and BMW Car magazines and finally post some entries on www.m5board.com, under the E39 section in the forum.
Thanks for all your help, it was very useful. Have actually been looking for a while and decided on the M5 after trying both and was actually dissappointed with the M3 after my current car (gorgeous E39 540i - now for sale!!) and before that my 3 litre Z4. have found one that ticks all the boxes and has a warranty so will probably go for that one if it passes HPI and a physical
thanks again
thanks again
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