Essential but CHEAP track day modifications
Discussion
As some of you know I own a 1.4 SEAT Ibiza, which I would like to take on track next year. However, in its current form it would destroy its brakes and tyres in about 3 laps. So, any cheap (and I mean cheap, I'm a student) modifications I can do to make it a bit more durable on track? Seats and all easily removeable trim would go, and I'll probably make some brake ducts over the winter. Any other ideas for someone on a tight budget?
). DJ, I can't see you destroying a set of tyres in just 3 laps but, if you run on your conventional road tyres try to avoid using them on track when they're new with lots of tread. They'll be better with <5mm.
Brand new road tyres will overheat quickly as the treads blocks move around.
Brand new road tyres will overheat quickly as the treads blocks move around.
On the braking side of things : Try removing any backing plate from behind the discs (allows the air to circulate more freely, preventing heat build up). Also, you may as well bang some braided hoses on the car as well, as these give a more consistent feel with inceases in temperature of the fluid, which will make conventional rubber hoses 'flex' and bulge, giving your pedal a feta cheese sort of feel. Put a fluid in which has a high wet boiling point as well (Castrol SRF is nice, but expensive, and is probably overkill in this situation.) As has already been said, try a dot 5.1 fluid. If you're going to get any different pads, don't mess around with ANYTHING from EBC - they're all crap. buy some decent pagid pads, e.g. RS 14 ('blues'), or a harder pad, like the yellows, or oranges. They're significantly more expensive per axle set, and MAY kill (eat) your discs, depending upon what these are made of, but at least you'll have a fighting chance of stopping. if you buy a proper 'race' pad (rather than a 'fast road' pad - which are generally overpriced crap), you may also get some brake squeal, which can be embarrassing at your local traffic lights if trying to blend in.
Your call.
PS I take your point about your currenct financial standing, but certain things can be a false economy. You've obviously got some money to be doing trackdays whilst at college!
PPS Get someone to take you out in your own car to show you how to brake on a track. This isn't meant in a patronising way in the slightest, but watch one of the instructors brake for a corner, or a race driver, and they tend to brake later, but more importantly, harder, but for a shorter period of time. This often means they can take a standard car round a circuit for more laps than someone with less experience, who complains of brake fade - mainly cos they unwittingly overheated the things themselves, through using road techniques. Try pretending you want to push you foot through the bulkhead (i.e. emmergency stop). Don't go as far as to actually lock the brakes, and ensure the car is in a balanced state before doing this, otherwise you may find yourself kissing the armco sooner rather than later. There have been a number of posts from track based instructors who can probably offer more advice....
>> Edited by fergus on Wednesday 19th November 10:37
Your call.
PS I take your point about your currenct financial standing, but certain things can be a false economy. You've obviously got some money to be doing trackdays whilst at college!
PPS Get someone to take you out in your own car to show you how to brake on a track. This isn't meant in a patronising way in the slightest, but watch one of the instructors brake for a corner, or a race driver, and they tend to brake later, but more importantly, harder, but for a shorter period of time. This often means they can take a standard car round a circuit for more laps than someone with less experience, who complains of brake fade - mainly cos they unwittingly overheated the things themselves, through using road techniques. Try pretending you want to push you foot through the bulkhead (i.e. emmergency stop). Don't go as far as to actually lock the brakes, and ensure the car is in a balanced state before doing this, otherwise you may find yourself kissing the armco sooner rather than later. There have been a number of posts from track based instructors who can probably offer more advice....
>> Edited by fergus on Wednesday 19th November 10:37
I think its got a bit carried away here. Surely yellow pagid will kill the guy cold on the road?!!! And we also arent taking about a 4ltr v8 740i here for weight/speed! For your first track day :-
Make sure oil/fluids/tyre pressure are all normal.
Make sure pads/discs have plenly of life in them - if your gonna change them then get some basic pagid/ebc pads(check the ibiza forum for which brand work best with your car).
Most important - spend £30 on 30 mins of tuition (or more).
I wouldnt bother stripping the car out - maybe the spare wheel?
Just enjoy, take it easy, progressive, smooth and concetrate! Keep your eye in your mirrors as you are going to have some very fast cars approaching you - doesnt matter how fast you think you are on the road, the track is a different world!
Enjoy
Make sure oil/fluids/tyre pressure are all normal.
Make sure pads/discs have plenly of life in them - if your gonna change them then get some basic pagid/ebc pads(check the ibiza forum for which brand work best with your car).
Most important - spend £30 on 30 mins of tuition (or more).
I wouldnt bother stripping the car out - maybe the spare wheel?
Just enjoy, take it easy, progressive, smooth and concetrate! Keep your eye in your mirrors as you are going to have some very fast cars approaching you - doesnt matter how fast you think you are on the road, the track is a different world!
Enjoy
don't want to get anal here guys, but the friction coefficient of a pagid yellow even at 'out of the garage' temps is probably equal or higher to the standard road pad the car is supplied with.... All this talk of driving up to the lights and then running mrs.miggins over cos the pads are 'up to temp' is not really going to happen in normal conditions.....
Tuition is a v good point, and will help you out more than modifying your car ( & will probably be cheaper in terms of relative gains to you as a driver)
Tuition is a v good point, and will help you out more than modifying your car ( & will probably be cheaper in terms of relative gains to you as a driver)
Thanks for all the advice lads. It's just a twinkle in my eye at the moment, but the whole point of me trying to get a job is so I have some spare cash to throw at the car. I understand about the 'track braking vs road braking' thing, but not something a lot of people would think of. By stripping I just meant removing the rear seats, spare wheel, that kind of thing. Any further advise will be very gladly reciveved. I'm also kinda concerned about getting in peoples way. It's NOT a quick car (0-60 in 12 seconds), so in all probability its going to be the slowest thing out there
These tips are free www.matey-matey.com/trackday-preparation_1.shtml
I know someone who can hustle a volve 340R (not related to the Lotus of the same name) - the one with a 1.4 litre renault engine (circa 1983), quicker than another guy who has a 347hp merc E500 down the bedforsdhire back roads..... It's all about keeping what momentum you have going, rather than slowing the car down too much, which then requires the power to accelerate it back up to a given speed....
Re the brake pads: if you've got the inclination, you can buy a set of pads just for trackdays and swap them over the night before you drive somewhere to a circuit. A bit of a pain in the arse, but it also lets you inspect d/shafts, bearings, etc, etc, at the same time, before you rag the arse off your ibaza! (all IMHO and FWIW!)
I was with some guys who hired a stock ibiza 1.6 at the nordschleiffe in Sep, proceeded to strip the car, (almost completely), drove it round for the weekend, then gave it back to Hertz. The car wasn't as slow as you'd think it would be - but it did have a guy who normally punts a rally car around driving...
>> Edited by fergus on Thursday 20th November 00:11
Re the brake pads: if you've got the inclination, you can buy a set of pads just for trackdays and swap them over the night before you drive somewhere to a circuit. A bit of a pain in the arse, but it also lets you inspect d/shafts, bearings, etc, etc, at the same time, before you rag the arse off your ibaza! (all IMHO and FWIW!)
I was with some guys who hired a stock ibiza 1.6 at the nordschleiffe in Sep, proceeded to strip the car, (almost completely), drove it round for the weekend, then gave it back to Hertz. The car wasn't as slow as you'd think it would be - but it did have a guy who normally punts a rally car around driving...
>> Edited by fergus on Thursday 20th November 00:11
i would get a "competition" seat and spend what ever you have on tuition. a seat will hold you in place and there is nothing worse than moving in the seat with a three point diagonal "road" seat belt holding you in place. you move around and its very un-nerving. Tuition will help you learn about the circuit, how to balance a car through corners etc etc
also a three point harness should help with the seat. you dont have to use the harness all the time, but it will help on the track
>> Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 20th November 16:56
also a three point harness should help with the seat. you dont have to use the harness all the time, but it will help on the track
>> Edited by anonymous-user on Thursday 20th November 16:56
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