DS2500 pads, TVR Griffith 500 question...
Discussion
Hi guys...
I'm not a frequent track day user, max 1 per year usually.
I enjoyed a track-day @ Blyton Park yesterday. Previously, brakes were very good from cold, but discovered yesterday (without major incident thankfully) that they needed a lap to come alive.. Into the chicane 2nd lap I could stop the car from three figure speeds onto the chicane without a problem, Same performance throughput the sessions of no more than 6 laps a a time, with virtually no braking on the last lap then a rest in the paddock.
I took the pads out of the car today to have a look...
Can anyone identify what's been going on, brake disks never really seemed to be that hot while in the paddock.
What would the recommendation be for replacements, miore DS2500's or try something else?
Regards,
Brian and a Green Griffith 500
I'm not a frequent track day user, max 1 per year usually.
I enjoyed a track-day @ Blyton Park yesterday. Previously, brakes were very good from cold, but discovered yesterday (without major incident thankfully) that they needed a lap to come alive.. Into the chicane 2nd lap I could stop the car from three figure speeds onto the chicane without a problem, Same performance throughput the sessions of no more than 6 laps a a time, with virtually no braking on the last lap then a rest in the paddock.
I took the pads out of the car today to have a look...
Can anyone identify what's been going on, brake disks never really seemed to be that hot while in the paddock.
What would the recommendation be for replacements, miore DS2500's or try something else?
Regards,
Brian and a Green Griffith 500
Ferodo DS1.11 is the answer to all of your questions.
Yes, they are near double the price, but if you only do 1/2 track days per year they will last forever, better still if you are OK on your spanners & can change them for the day & then back before going home, using std pads on the road.
Yes, they are near double the price, but if you only do 1/2 track days per year they will last forever, better still if you are OK on your spanners & can change them for the day & then back before going home, using std pads on the road.
They may not be available.
I ran DS2500's on my Chimaera 5.5 for about 7 years, ( had Tuscan 4 pot set up) went through about 5 sets using them for road and about 20+ track days plus some club sprints..
Never a problem, always worked brilliantly. Yes, took a couple of dabs to warm them up then always the same performance.
What callipers are you using?
I ran DS2500's on my Chimaera 5.5 for about 7 years, ( had Tuscan 4 pot set up) went through about 5 sets using them for road and about 20+ track days plus some club sprints..
Never a problem, always worked brilliantly. Yes, took a couple of dabs to warm them up then always the same performance.
What callipers are you using?
Cheers for the reply’s guys...
I think DS1.11 may be a bit hard core for the odd track day, yes I take your point about them lasting forever, but I didn't want to start changing the pads in the paddock before and after a track day.
The callipers are stock TVR Griffith with the later 260mm disk.
The pads were new when I bought the car, they've done around 10K miles and 5 track days (all at Blyton), is the deterioration shown in the original post normal for this pad?
Regards,
Brian and a Green Griffith 500
I think DS1.11 may be a bit hard core for the odd track day, yes I take your point about them lasting forever, but I didn't want to start changing the pads in the paddock before and after a track day.
The callipers are stock TVR Griffith with the later 260mm disk.
The pads were new when I bought the car, they've done around 10K miles and 5 track days (all at Blyton), is the deterioration shown in the original post normal for this pad?
Regards,
Brian and a Green Griffith 500
I have never seen deterioration like that on pads. Certainly not on my DS2500‘s.
I wonder were those pads fitted before you bought the car? If so they could be many, many years old.
I changed the pads on my 1999, 30K in miles Motorhome earlier this year. The brakes were always a bit rubbish. I fitted decent standard pads and the braking is now twice as good. I put it down to the original pads being so old for some reason.
I wonder were those pads fitted before you bought the car? If so they could be many, many years old.
I changed the pads on my 1999, 30K in miles Motorhome earlier this year. The brakes were always a bit rubbish. I fitted decent standard pads and the braking is now twice as good. I put it down to the original pads being so old for some reason.
10k road miles and 5 trackdays, id say youve done pretty well. If you arent keen on spending double the money on proper race pads (performance friction, pagid rs, carbon lorraine etc) then id stick another set of ds2500s in. Could try ebc blues, though, i dont think theyd be as good as ds2500s.
New pads, fresh fluid and possibly new discs if theyre getting on a bit and you'll be good for another 5 years.
New pads, fresh fluid and possibly new discs if theyre getting on a bit and you'll be good for another 5 years.
Those old pads have overheated causing them to crumble as a result.
From experience DS2500 pads will be the perfect choice for road and occasional track use. If you are a serious track day driver then by all means try the DS1-11 pads, but be warned they will shed a lot of s
t onto your wheels..
From experience DS2500 pads will be the perfect choice for road and occasional track use. If you are a serious track day driver then by all means try the DS1-11 pads, but be warned they will shed a lot of s
t onto your wheels.. I know some people don't rate the DS2500's but I've done 60+ track days and never an issue. Just buy a new set.
I use: https://cambridgemotorsport.com
Certainly cheaper than the, "Demon".
I use: https://cambridgemotorsport.com
Certainly cheaper than the, "Demon".
Thanks guys for all your replies...
DS2500's it will be....
In the meantime I've ordered some relatively inexpensive Brembo pads from ECP... Which will at least allow me to drive the car without worrying about the condition of the brake pads...
When I took the pads out, I noticed that the outer pad was worse, definitely obvious side on, on that side of the disk the ventilation holes were blocked by dust (they weren't before the track-day) while the other side was clean, I wonder if this was the cause of the overheating, although it may be a chicken and egg situation.
Has anyone the correct part numbers...
FCP206H front and FCP408H rear
Not all retailers list the particular TVR fitment, but they are a fairly common Ford setup.
R Brian
DS2500's it will be....
In the meantime I've ordered some relatively inexpensive Brembo pads from ECP... Which will at least allow me to drive the car without worrying about the condition of the brake pads...
When I took the pads out, I noticed that the outer pad was worse, definitely obvious side on, on that side of the disk the ventilation holes were blocked by dust (they weren't before the track-day) while the other side was clean, I wonder if this was the cause of the overheating, although it may be a chicken and egg situation.
Has anyone the correct part numbers...
FCP206H front and FCP408H rear
Not all retailers list the particular TVR fitment, but they are a fairly common Ford setup.
R Brian
Thanks again Peter...
Cambridge replied fairly quickly to my request for a quote and agreed with Pistonheads that the pads were overheated, but asked me to provide part numbers...
I swapped all 4 pads this morning before it got too hot, so I can now read the part numbers off the back of the pads.
For anyone following in my footsteps (obviously check they are the correct fitment for your particular car),
DE2500 compound - Front FCP276H and Rear FCP408H
In an effort to prevent me frying the new set, how can I measure the brake temperature when I arrive back at the paddock after 5-6 laps followed by one where I try not to use the brakes at all? I've been measuring the desk surface with a laser thermometer really before take my helmet off.
Regards Brian
and a Green Griffith 500
Cambridge replied fairly quickly to my request for a quote and agreed with Pistonheads that the pads were overheated, but asked me to provide part numbers...
I swapped all 4 pads this morning before it got too hot, so I can now read the part numbers off the back of the pads.
For anyone following in my footsteps (obviously check they are the correct fitment for your particular car),
DE2500 compound - Front FCP276H and Rear FCP408H
In an effort to prevent me frying the new set, how can I measure the brake temperature when I arrive back at the paddock after 5-6 laps followed by one where I try not to use the brakes at all? I've been measuring the desk surface with a laser thermometer really before take my helmet off.
Regards Brian
and a Green Griffith 500
I think that’s all you can do, use one of those laser thermometers.
I have never checked the temperature of my brakes. I do use a thermometer but just for tiye temperatures.
If you have new DS2500‘s fitted, I wouldn’t worry about the temperature, they will be doing their job.
I often stay out for 20 minutes plus and have never had an issue.
I have never checked the temperature of my brakes. I do use a thermometer but just for tiye temperatures.
If you have new DS2500‘s fitted, I wouldn’t worry about the temperature, they will be doing their job.
I often stay out for 20 minutes plus and have never had an issue.
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