Brake bedding questions

[handbraketurn]

Just bought a 6 pot BBK for my track car, which I want to bed in properly. The rears are remaining standard manufacturer (Albiet with better rotors and pads), they still have plenty of pad/disc life left, no idea how they were bedded in as they were on car when I purchased it.

The bedding in procedure for BBK is fairly standard for the pads I'm using (fast road/track), 10 x 60mph decelerations to 10mph, followed by a stint of higher speed driving with no braking to cool them down. Repeated 2-3 times.

Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

And that should lay down an even transfer layer.

I'm fairly new to bedding in brakes.

How will it affect the rears to go through the bedding in process? And likewise, when I replace the rear rotors and pads and bed those in, how. will it affect the BBK? Is it OK to keep repeating it?

Cheers

HBT

[jamiem555]

Ideally you should use the same material pad in the rear. If they’re the old pads and are untouched then the bedding in procedure shouldn’t affect them as they’ll already be bedded in.

[Trackdayer]

You'll be fine don't worry.

[handbraketurn]

jamiem555 said:

Ideally you should use the same material pad in the rear. If they’re the old pads and are untouched then the bedding in procedure shouldn’t affect them as they’ll already be bedded in.

Thanks for response.

Yes, I will look into getting same compounds on the back when the current discs and pads are shot (which won't be long), I currently have the Stop Tech Sports compound on the front BBK, which is what they're designed to work with. But you can get DS2500 for them and also for the standards rear callipers. Plus you can also get StopTech slotted or drilled and slotted rear discs which work with the standard bell and calliper set up, which would definitely be the optimal set up.

Regarding bedding in, it's not just for the pads, the bedding in of pads is to get them up to temp to mature the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.

But the rotors need bedding so at the higher temperature you get a transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. So even with pads which have already been up to temperature, you still need to bed in new discs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdPX6rzuINc

I was reading today, that even if you change pad compounds, you should ideally clean off the current transfer layer and put down a new one.

https://centricparts.com/getmedia/231712d7-a4d8-4e...

And also interestingly, you can 'un-bed' discs.

[i]"If any brake pad is used below its adherent operating temperature, it will create friction through primarily abrasive mechanisms, slowly but surely removing the transfer layer on the rotor. For this reason, most street/performance pads like to be driven just a little bit aggressively every now and again to maintain a proper transfer layer of pad material on the rotor face.
If the brakes are used passively for an extended period of time, the transfer layer can be completely removed, effectively un-bedding the brakes. The brake system will still perform well under normal driving conditions, but before heading to the autocross or your favorite canyon back road you will want to perform a bed-in procedure. Failing to do so will only increase the risk of TV generation." [/i]

Trackdayer said:

You'll be fine don't worry.

Thanks!

[Burgerbob]

Just expanding on the OPs question. Hope important is following the bedding in process.

Let's say you put new pads on, then went on a track day. Appreciate that initially you may need to be careful, but would the pads go through the same heat cycles and naturally bed in?

[worldwidewebs]

Burgerbob said:

Just expanding on the OPs question. Hope important is following the bedding in process.

Let's say you put new pads on, then went on a track day. Appreciate that initially you may need to be careful, but would the pads go through the same heat cycles and naturally bed in?

I can't answer specifically, but I can say that when I bed pads in properly they are night and day better than pads that haven't been. So much so that when you hear people arguing over which pads are 'best' I think there is a significant factor due to the bedding in process that's been employed

[Zarco]

worldwidewebs said:

Burgerbob said:

Just expanding on the OPs question. Hope important is following the bedding in process.

Let's say you put new pads on, then went on a track day. Appreciate that initially you may need to be careful, but would the pads go through the same heat cycles and naturally bed in?

I can't answer specifically, but I can say that when I bed pads in properly they are night and day better than pads that haven't been. So much so that when you hear people arguing over which pads are 'best' I think there is a significant factor due to the bedding in process that's been employed

Definitely.

Much more likely to end up with uneven pad deposits too (the infamous 'warped discs').

Been there and got the t-shirt.