Track car oil ?
Discussion
Hello good evening ....
I’m trying to do some research into the correct oil I should use in my 2000 e46 330ci I am in the camp of use standard grade and changing it often but after blowing the car up at the Nürburgring on the start finish straight I’m happy for someone to change my mind 😂
The car is a track day car used as on the road every now and again .
People’s opinions are greatly appreciated. 👍
I’m trying to do some research into the correct oil I should use in my 2000 e46 330ci I am in the camp of use standard grade and changing it often but after blowing the car up at the Nürburgring on the start finish straight I’m happy for someone to change my mind 😂
The car is a track day car used as on the road every now and again .
People’s opinions are greatly appreciated. 👍
Always ran/run 5-40 fully synth in my e36s in M3 & 328 track forms, as has my pal in his 328s, between us hundreds of ring laps & thousands of track miles. I prefer to use shell helix, but not ever bought off ebay etc so much fake crap out there.
Others I know use 5-50 comma for bit more thickness when really hot & even 10-60 by a few manufacturers.
With the 36s & I bet the 46s too, the lesser non M models would benefit from an oil cooler, usually oil issues are simply the oil has got too hot, I replaced my track car oil coolers on the m3s for larger & better over oe.
Others I know use 5-50 comma for bit more thickness when really hot & even 10-60 by a few manufacturers.
With the 36s & I bet the 46s too, the lesser non M models would benefit from an oil cooler, usually oil issues are simply the oil has got too hot, I replaced my track car oil coolers on the m3s for larger & better over oe.
Often oil can shear down to a lower viscosity during heavy track use so it's best to change it for one of a higher viscosity.
I also use Shell Helix Ultra on track, some Ferrari owners in America have had used oil analysis done and the 10W60 will drop to 40 after less than 2000 miles.
I also use Shell Helix Ultra on track, some Ferrari owners in America have had used oil analysis done and the 10W60 will drop to 40 after less than 2000 miles.
In pretty much anything but a highly modified race engine, my personal opinion is to pick an oil that meets all the manufacturers specifications and cool it so it runs within the intended temperature range.
Running a thicker oil is a sticking plaster solution really as the tolerances in the engine will be set based on the manufacturer recommended hot oil viscosity. Whilst after 15 mins on track at 120c the oil might be at the right viscosity, in any other situation it won't be.
I'm using Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 in my M52B30 engine - it meets BMW manufacturer specs as well as loads others. And it's high zinc content - not an issue for me as it's in an E30 without a cat. With a 16 row cooler, it doesn't exceed 110c on track, even on a 30c day. Changed every 4-5 trackdays, based on viscosity index & oxidation from used oil analysis. That's about 700 track miles and another 1k road miles or so at a guess.
Race cars you'll find tend to run thinner, not thicker oils. BTCC etc will mostly be running 5/30 or flat 30 weight. Engines built with tight tolerances for the thinner oil, cooled properly to remain in designed temperature range - and the thinner oil means less internal friction - more power.
Disclaimer - not an oil expert, just a layman having done a little bit of research having been told it wasn't worth running Motorsport oil in my track car
Running a thicker oil is a sticking plaster solution really as the tolerances in the engine will be set based on the manufacturer recommended hot oil viscosity. Whilst after 15 mins on track at 120c the oil might be at the right viscosity, in any other situation it won't be.
I'm using Motul 8100 xcess 5w40 in my M52B30 engine - it meets BMW manufacturer specs as well as loads others. And it's high zinc content - not an issue for me as it's in an E30 without a cat. With a 16 row cooler, it doesn't exceed 110c on track, even on a 30c day. Changed every 4-5 trackdays, based on viscosity index & oxidation from used oil analysis. That's about 700 track miles and another 1k road miles or so at a guess.
Race cars you'll find tend to run thinner, not thicker oils. BTCC etc will mostly be running 5/30 or flat 30 weight. Engines built with tight tolerances for the thinner oil, cooled properly to remain in designed temperature range - and the thinner oil means less internal friction - more power.
Disclaimer - not an oil expert, just a layman having done a little bit of research having been told it wasn't worth running Motorsport oil in my track car
SBE46 said:
I think you are correct in what you say they don’t like high revs for long periods of time.
I think I will wire the nut onto the oil pump on my new engine.
If it hadn't been done then it could very well be the oil pump, well-known flaw on the M54B30s.I think I will wire the nut onto the oil pump on my new engine.
Also worth removing the CCV and fitting a catch tank, as they often cause high oil usage.
SBE46 said:
Dose anyone run a oil stat with there oil cooler ?
Are they necessary ?
Yes - and if you're using the car as a road car too, yes again. Otherwise under normal driving it'll take ages for the engine to get up to temp. Alternatively you could run a removable blanking plate for the cooler I guess, just taking it off for trackdays. But a thermostat is the proper solution. Are they necessary ?
Krikkit said:
SBE46 said:
I think you are correct in what you say they don’t like high revs for long periods of time.
I think I will wire the nut onto the oil pump on my new engine.
If it hadn't been done then it could very well be the oil pump, well-known flaw on the M54B30s.I think I will wire the nut onto the oil pump on my new engine.
The cabled nut is not a solution because the whole sprocket shaft is a weak link. Either fully replace the pump assembly with one developed to counter this issue (shaft/sprocket/multipoint foixngs), or buy an expensive ATI damper from the US to reduce harmonics at high rpm, or just dont rev the M54 past 6.5Krpm. It doesnt make much power beyond that in std. trim anyway.
Im still std setup in my M52B28 and taking a risk but dont rev the car past 7.2Krpm at all and knock on wood so far has been solid with over 5 years of TD only abuse.
Personally, I would use a B28 lump with M50 manifold and with some cams and exhaust you will be running above 230HP with a slightly more rev happy motor.
Peace.
Humour said:
Personally, I would use a B28 lump with M50 manifold and with some cams and exhaust you will be running above 230HP with a slightly more rev happy motor.
M3 headers give good gains, on a pretty conservative dyno & without cams but obvs the m50 inlet have seen in the 240s, mapping a must tho. Gassing Station | Track Days | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff