Mazda MK3 Sport Qs
Discussion
If you want a cage fitted speak to Paul Sheard Motorsport near Stoke. I am not sure that a cage will fit beneath the powered roof, though. Paul will know.
Have a look at the mods that the SuperCup and Max5 racers do.
Be careful of oil levels and keep topped up. The engine is the same as a Duratec and has a very shallow sump, which can cause problems on track with oil surge. Not sure whether people fit accusumps or baffled sumps - be worth finding out.
Another good guy to talk to is Paul Roddison (Roddo on here, I think) near Sheffield.
Have a look at the mods that the SuperCup and Max5 racers do.
Be careful of oil levels and keep topped up. The engine is the same as a Duratec and has a very shallow sump, which can cause problems on track with oil surge. Not sure whether people fit accusumps or baffled sumps - be worth finding out.
Another good guy to talk to is Paul Roddison (Roddo on here, I think) near Sheffield.
Edited by andy97 on Saturday 8th August 16:19
I had one for years for just that, although it turned into more of a track only car despite being road legal. Certainly speak to Paul Roddison as above, although be warned he may try to get you to go racing.... :-)
A few things I would say:
- If you want it as a road car to enjoy don't fit race seats, wheel & harnesses. Obviously these are helpful on track but it will make it uncomfortable to drive long distances and unless you plan to trailer it to tracks further away, you will need a serious sports massage by the time you get out of it....
- Meister R coilovers, a remap and most importantly the exhaust manifold will transform it. Don't bother with induction kits. The standard brakes are good with uprated pads only. A lightened flywheel is nice which could be done at the same time as fitting an uprated clutch which is likely to be needed (Exedy) or it will just start slipping after a few laps, especially if its already done a few miles.
- Some people change the engine for the more torquey 2.5 Duratec. If you find one already done like this then you might prefer it but I don't think it's necessary and won't have the same high revving characteristics.
- Tyres: Popular are the Nankangs, which are perhaps slightly better than Federals in the wet. MRFs are another option but avoid them in the wet; they also wear more quickly than the other two mentioned. Of course there's lots of other options - it's a compromise between track and general road use. However, something like a Rainsport will get torn to shreds if you use it on a dry track.
In terms of costs, if you can find a good one (like my old one!) already done then you should get a decent bargain. Otherwise try and find an unmolested clean 2.0L example and go from there. A cage that's high enough for a tall driver and will still accept the hood is unlikely to be possible (but perhaps I'm wrong). A roll bar is an option but needs to be from a proper company making safety equipment not just a style bar. However, the chances of you rolling it even on track are pretty slim. If you go with harnesses you will need suitable rollover protection otherwise your head will be fixed and, well, you can imagine...
They are VERY cheap to run as a track car.... Just make sure you keep the oil well topped up and the engine "should" be fine!
A few things I would say:
- If you want it as a road car to enjoy don't fit race seats, wheel & harnesses. Obviously these are helpful on track but it will make it uncomfortable to drive long distances and unless you plan to trailer it to tracks further away, you will need a serious sports massage by the time you get out of it....
- Meister R coilovers, a remap and most importantly the exhaust manifold will transform it. Don't bother with induction kits. The standard brakes are good with uprated pads only. A lightened flywheel is nice which could be done at the same time as fitting an uprated clutch which is likely to be needed (Exedy) or it will just start slipping after a few laps, especially if its already done a few miles.
- Some people change the engine for the more torquey 2.5 Duratec. If you find one already done like this then you might prefer it but I don't think it's necessary and won't have the same high revving characteristics.
- Tyres: Popular are the Nankangs, which are perhaps slightly better than Federals in the wet. MRFs are another option but avoid them in the wet; they also wear more quickly than the other two mentioned. Of course there's lots of other options - it's a compromise between track and general road use. However, something like a Rainsport will get torn to shreds if you use it on a dry track.
In terms of costs, if you can find a good one (like my old one!) already done then you should get a decent bargain. Otherwise try and find an unmolested clean 2.0L example and go from there. A cage that's high enough for a tall driver and will still accept the hood is unlikely to be possible (but perhaps I'm wrong). A roll bar is an option but needs to be from a proper company making safety equipment not just a style bar. However, the chances of you rolling it even on track are pretty slim. If you go with harnesses you will need suitable rollover protection otherwise your head will be fixed and, well, you can imagine...
They are VERY cheap to run as a track car.... Just make sure you keep the oil well topped up and the engine "should" be fine!
You won't want a full cage, they are a nightmare. A better rollover hoop is available, that coupled with the standard safety features will do ok for a road & track car.
Don't believe any of this shallow sump/half sump full stuff that constantly get punted around or uprated clutch stuff. The sumps are fine and lets face it you'd keep it topped up no matter what the car on track. I did recently let mine get down to halfway on a TD and it was fine, they are really well baffled. Std clutches go on to 150k road miles or more and are fine for any kind of N/A power.
They do make fantastic track cars when done properly. Lot of facts and info here to help you if you read the whole lot, there are various articles on there: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?cat=1
Don't believe any of this shallow sump/half sump full stuff that constantly get punted around or uprated clutch stuff. The sumps are fine and lets face it you'd keep it topped up no matter what the car on track. I did recently let mine get down to halfway on a TD and it was fine, they are really well baffled. Std clutches go on to 150k road miles or more and are fine for any kind of N/A power.
They do make fantastic track cars when done properly. Lot of facts and info here to help you if you read the whole lot, there are various articles on there: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?cat=1
Edited by Evoluzione on Sunday 9th August 22:42
Evoluzione said:
You won't want a full cage, they are a nightmare. A better rollover hoop is available, that coupled with the standard safety features will do ok for a road & track car.
Don't believe any of this shallow sump/half sump full stuff that constantly get punted around or uprated clutch stuff. The sumps are fine and lets face it you'd keep it topped up no matter what the car on track. I did recently let mine get down to halfway on a TD and it was fine, they are really well baffled. Std clutches go on to 150k road miles or more and are fine for any kind of N/A power.
They do make fantastic track cars when done properly. Lot of facts and info here to help you if you read the whole lot, there are various articles on there: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?cat=1
I agree with you apart from the clutch - once things get hot and even with decent rev matching they will start to go after prolonged track action. However, I'm sure like anything mechanical they will all be different and there's no point fixing something that ain't broke. The lightened flywheel is an upgrade rather than a fix though, if you want to go that way. Don't believe any of this shallow sump/half sump full stuff that constantly get punted around or uprated clutch stuff. The sumps are fine and lets face it you'd keep it topped up no matter what the car on track. I did recently let mine get down to halfway on a TD and it was fine, they are really well baffled. Std clutches go on to 150k road miles or more and are fine for any kind of N/A power.
They do make fantastic track cars when done properly. Lot of facts and info here to help you if you read the whole lot, there are various articles on there: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?cat=1
Edited by Evoluzione on Sunday 9th August 22:42
They are definitely fantastic track cars - unless you are someone who is a fan of straight line power, in which case you should look elsewhere. I'm not that quick on track but still managed to embarrass lots of higher powered machinery.
DocSteve said:
Evoluzione said:
You won't want a full cage, they are a nightmare. A better rollover hoop is available, that coupled with the standard safety features will do ok for a road & track car.
Don't believe any of this shallow sump/half sump full stuff that constantly get punted around or uprated clutch stuff. The sumps are fine and lets face it you'd keep it topped up no matter what the car on track. I did recently let mine get down to halfway on a TD and it was fine, they are really well baffled. Std clutches go on to 150k road miles or more and are fine for any kind of N/A power.
They do make fantastic track cars when done properly. Lot of facts and info here to help you if you read the whole lot, there are various articles on there: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?cat=1
I agree with you apart from the clutch - once things get hot and even with decent rev matching they will start to go after prolonged track action. However, I'm sure like anything mechanical they will all be different and there's no point fixing something that ain't broke. The lightened flywheel is an upgrade rather than a fix though, if you want to go that way. Don't believe any of this shallow sump/half sump full stuff that constantly get punted around or uprated clutch stuff. The sumps are fine and lets face it you'd keep it topped up no matter what the car on track. I did recently let mine get down to halfway on a TD and it was fine, they are really well baffled. Std clutches go on to 150k road miles or more and are fine for any kind of N/A power.
They do make fantastic track cars when done properly. Lot of facts and info here to help you if you read the whole lot, there are various articles on there: http://www.duratecnc.co.uk/?cat=1
Edited by Evoluzione on Sunday 9th August 22:42
They are definitely fantastic track cars - unless you are someone who is a fan of straight line power, in which case you should look elsewhere. I'm not that quick on track but still managed to embarrass lots of higher powered machinery.
N/A power is really easy on clutches, but the sudden torque of a turbo conversion will overcome them. However BBRs ST1 turbo kit retains the std clutch and they're reputed to put out 225ft/lb although I suspect it's getting to it's limit there.
The ST2 needs an upgrade so you can see roughly how much they'll take.
If you've had problems and it isn't completely worn out then it isn't the fault of the actual clutch kit itself, it's been badly abused or is in the setting up of it as they are adjustable and people often mess it up.
Uprated clutches (coupled with light flywheels) make a car less enjoyable to drive, particularly on the road and also put more strain on gearbox components - which then break.
A std clutch with lightened flywheel is a good mod though.
As far as 'cheap' goes though, well that depends on how far you want to go or your personal demands! Certainly a replacement suspension bush kit and new coilovers aren't cheap, but the difference is night and day on track.
Edited by Evoluzione on Wednesday 12th August 12:05
vanman1936 said:
BBR turbos aren’t suitable for track use. They generate too much heat.A Corten-Miller supercharger would be ok though:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/524090127662436?vi...
Edited by CarlosFandango11 on Friday 21st August 12:14
CarlosFandango11 said:
I’m also interested in a MK3 as a Road and track car.
Does anyone know if it’s possible to fit a roll bar under the hard top version? Or if it’s only possible under the soft top version?
Thanks.
Speak to Paul Sheard.Does anyone know if it’s possible to fit a roll bar under the hard top version? Or if it’s only possible under the soft top version?
Thanks.
https://www.paulsheardautos.com/roll-cage-mk3
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