Cost of track days
Discussion
I've had a search and can't find anything recent! But knowing how pants the search system is on here, sorry if it's asked all the time!
I want to do some track days. Never done them before other than the driving experience days that are always a bit crap!
How much would I need to budget for each track day? Not including fees to go or hotels if overnight etc.
I'm thinking of getting a second car. Bit more fun than my Golf TDI! Nothing special (looking at a Clio). Something I can drive there and back in as well.
Thanks in advance
.
I want to do some track days. Never done them before other than the driving experience days that are always a bit crap!
How much would I need to budget for each track day? Not including fees to go or hotels if overnight etc.
I'm thinking of getting a second car. Bit more fun than my Golf TDI! Nothing special (looking at a Clio). Something I can drive there and back in as well.
Thanks in advance
. As said above, for most track days, the single biggest cost is the booking itself and can vary between tracks etc.
Depending on the car, you'll at least need some high temp brake fluid, some braided lines and track pads. You can save a bunch of money, if you can do maintenance work on the car yourself.
For reference, I did a track day at Bedford last month in my DD M2 and here's a breakdown of the costs:
Track day: £159 for a full day
Braided lines: ~£90 (Goodridge)
Brake Fluid: £35 for 2 bottles (Motul RBF600)
Brake Pads: ~£315 delivered (Ferodo DSUno)
Fuel: ~£100 or just over
I had to get brake service done on my car and since it's under warranty, I had to pay a shop to do it.
This cost about £340 for fluid flush, installation of brake lines and pads, out of which, £170 was for brake pad installation (absolute rip off!!); I supplied the parts and fluid.
Brake lines were a one off cost and I'll be doing the work myself on the car in future, including oil changes (pads were changed back to stock at the track after the last session, took me just under an hour for all 4).
Pads still have at least another 4 or so track days based on my last usage.
I tracked on my normal tyres, so haven't included this cost in, but if you're getting serious, definitely get a second set if you'll be driving the second car on the road often!
Past this, track days can get expensive when something breaks or you start looking at getting a new suspension set-up, bigger/better brakes, more power etc. This is a slippery slope, but very rewarding and helps you become a better driver on the road at least!
Depending on the car, you'll at least need some high temp brake fluid, some braided lines and track pads. You can save a bunch of money, if you can do maintenance work on the car yourself.
For reference, I did a track day at Bedford last month in my DD M2 and here's a breakdown of the costs:
Track day: £159 for a full day
Braided lines: ~£90 (Goodridge)
Brake Fluid: £35 for 2 bottles (Motul RBF600)
Brake Pads: ~£315 delivered (Ferodo DSUno)
Fuel: ~£100 or just over
I had to get brake service done on my car and since it's under warranty, I had to pay a shop to do it.
This cost about £340 for fluid flush, installation of brake lines and pads, out of which, £170 was for brake pad installation (absolute rip off!!); I supplied the parts and fluid.
Brake lines were a one off cost and I'll be doing the work myself on the car in future, including oil changes (pads were changed back to stock at the track after the last session, took me just under an hour for all 4).
Pads still have at least another 4 or so track days based on my last usage.
I tracked on my normal tyres, so haven't included this cost in, but if you're getting serious, definitely get a second set if you'll be driving the second car on the road often!
Past this, track days can get expensive when something breaks or you start looking at getting a new suspension set-up, bigger/better brakes, more power etc. This is a slippery slope, but very rewarding and helps you become a better driver on the road at least!
For me, a set of track tyres like R888rs or similar cost about £600 fitted and last about 4 - 5 full, dry trackdays. If you can trailer the car and don't need them to be road legal, then you can get more days out of them.
Brake pads - CLs or RS29s cost about £500 all round, but fronts last about 10-11 trackdays, rears more than that. EBC Blue Stuff are cheaper but don't last as long and aren't quite as good.
Discs - done loads of days on those and there's barely any wear.
Brake fluid - Motul RBF 660, changed every 2-3 trackdays or 6 months. About £25 a flush.
Engine oil changed every 4 trackdays. About £70 all in but then my car takes 7 litres.
Budget £100 for fuel.
All on a roughly 1 tonne rwd car.
Brake pads - CLs or RS29s cost about £500 all round, but fronts last about 10-11 trackdays, rears more than that. EBC Blue Stuff are cheaper but don't last as long and aren't quite as good.
Discs - done loads of days on those and there's barely any wear.
Brake fluid - Motul RBF 660, changed every 2-3 trackdays or 6 months. About £25 a flush.
Engine oil changed every 4 trackdays. About £70 all in but then my car takes 7 litres.
Budget £100 for fuel.
All on a roughly 1 tonne rwd car.
Thanks all! Not as bad as I thought it would be (other than the entry fees! Ouch!).
Now to find a car...
currypuff said:
Past this, track days can get expensive when something breaks or you start looking at getting a new suspension set-up, bigger/better brakes, more power etc. This is a slippery slope, but very rewarding and helps you become a better driver on the road at least!
I say I don't think I'll be doing this...ive got no self control and properly will ha. Now to find a car...
it very much depends on what type of car you get. But a Clio is at the lower end of cost if reliable.
I have a Twingo, in the last year I have done 12 track days, and 30 hours on track, total cost not including the purchase of the car, but including all running costs, spares, oil , tyres, fuel, etc, £6600. Or approx £220 per hour. But I do a lot of hours/miles on each track day and spent a lot of money on dephaser/cambelt change, brake discs, and new struts. If I was luckier with the car I could have spent £1500 less.You could probably do it for about £170 per hour if you do less miles per day than I do ( circa 250+)
Ignore all the BS from others about braided hoses, etc, you don't need it. A good service and new, better brake fluid would be good, and as you are a novice you'll be ok on standard pads, but CL RC5/6 would be a good upgrade.
Leave the car standard, it'll take way more punishment than you would think.
I have a Twingo, in the last year I have done 12 track days, and 30 hours on track, total cost not including the purchase of the car, but including all running costs, spares, oil , tyres, fuel, etc, £6600. Or approx £220 per hour. But I do a lot of hours/miles on each track day and spent a lot of money on dephaser/cambelt change, brake discs, and new struts. If I was luckier with the car I could have spent £1500 less.You could probably do it for about £170 per hour if you do less miles per day than I do ( circa 250+)
Ignore all the BS from others about braided hoses, etc, you don't need it. A good service and new, better brake fluid would be good, and as you are a novice you'll be ok on standard pads, but CL RC5/6 would be a good upgrade.
Leave the car standard, it'll take way more punishment than you would think.
Edited by Dynion Araf Uchaf on Sunday 9th August 12:00
motorhole said:
For me, a set of track tyres like R888rs or similar cost about £600 fitted and last about 4 - 5 full, dry trackdays. If you can trailer the car and don't need them to be road legal, then you can get more days out of them.
Brake pads - CLs or RS29s cost about £500 all round, but fronts last about 10-11 trackdays, rears more than that. EBC Blue Stuff are cheaper but don't last as long and aren't quite as good.
Discs - done loads of days on those and there's barely any wear.
Brake fluid - Motul RBF 660, changed every 2-3 trackdays or 6 months. About £25 a flush.
Engine oil changed every 4 trackdays. About £70 all in but then my car takes 7 litres.
Budget £100 for fuel.
All on a roughly 1 tonne rwd car.
How have you got yourself into the situation where you are changing brake fluid more often than oil?Brake pads - CLs or RS29s cost about £500 all round, but fronts last about 10-11 trackdays, rears more than that. EBC Blue Stuff are cheaper but don't last as long and aren't quite as good.
Discs - done loads of days on those and there's barely any wear.
Brake fluid - Motul RBF 660, changed every 2-3 trackdays or 6 months. About £25 a flush.
Engine oil changed every 4 trackdays. About £70 all in but then my car takes 7 litres.
Budget £100 for fuel.
All on a roughly 1 tonne rwd car.
Dynion Araf Uchaf said:
it very much depends on what type of car you get. But a Clio is at the lower end of cost if reliable.
I have a Twingo, in the last year I have done 12 track days, and 30 hours on track, total cost not including the purchase of the car, but including all running costs, spares, oil , tyres, fuel, etc, £6600. Or approx £220 per hour. But I do a lot of hours/miles on each track day and spent a lot of money on dephaser/cambelt change, brake discs, and new struts. If I was luckier with the car I could have spent £1500 less.You could probably do it for about £170 per hour if you do less miles per day than I do ( circa 250+)
Ignore all the BS from others about braided hoses, etc, you don't need it. A good service and new, better brake fluid would be good, and as you are a novice you'll be ok on standard pads, but CL RC5/6 would be a good upgrade.
Leave the car standard, it'll take way more punishment than you would think.
I’d look again that that maths, I make it that you’re doing two and a half hours and 250+ miles per day, in a Twingo I have a Twingo, in the last year I have done 12 track days, and 30 hours on track, total cost not including the purchase of the car, but including all running costs, spares, oil , tyres, fuel, etc, £6600. Or approx £220 per hour. But I do a lot of hours/miles on each track day and spent a lot of money on dephaser/cambelt change, brake discs, and new struts. If I was luckier with the car I could have spent £1500 less.You could probably do it for about £170 per hour if you do less miles per day than I do ( circa 250+)
Ignore all the BS from others about braided hoses, etc, you don't need it. A good service and new, better brake fluid would be good, and as you are a novice you'll be ok on standard pads, but CL RC5/6 would be a good upgrade.
Leave the car standard, it'll take way more punishment than you would think.
Edited by Dynion Araf Uchaf on Sunday 9th August 12:00
.Dynion Araf Uchaf said:
How have you got yourself into the situation where you are changing brake fluid more often than oil?
Prudence really! Most tracks I'm well in excess of 100mph several times a lap so safe to have fairly fresh fluid when it's not expensive. Oil - oil analysis shows its just starting to turn at about 4-5 trackdays typically. So no need to change more often than that.
What tools would I need for basic DIY stuff? Im not great at it, but happy to give it a go as it wouldn't be my main car (and if something took longer I'd be f
ked as I need it).
Im going to look at renting a garage nearby as I don't think my other half would be too pleased if I kept a second car in ours...
ked as I need it). Im going to look at renting a garage nearby as I don't think my other half would be too pleased if I kept a second car in ours...
motorhole said:
Prudence really! Most tracks I'm well in excess of 100mph several times a lap so safe to have fairly fresh fluid when it's not expensive.
Oil - oil analysis shows its just starting to turn at about 4-5 trackdays typically. So no need to change more often than that.
prudence? If you are able to tell the quality of the oil then maybe you should extend that to the brake fluid. You can get water content testers. I have to say that changing the fluid as often as you are is IMHO , more a reflection of a confidence issue you have with yourself on trackdays. Your're using it like a safety net - i.e. "I've changed my brake fluid, so I am ok to drive fast," It does not really work like that. Oil - oil analysis shows its just starting to turn at about 4-5 trackdays typically. So no need to change more often than that.
Dynion Araf Uchaf said:
Your're using it like a safety net - i.e. "I've changed my brake fluid, so I am ok to drive fast," It does not really work like that.
That's a bit of a harsh take on preventative maintenance!In principle, I do agree. However a brake fluid LED indicator isn't the most precise way of judging the boiling point of the fluid and actual conductivity meters that would give you a useful figure to compare with the fluid manufacturer's specs are rather expensive. Also, fluid in a brake circuit isn't particularly mobile, so measuring the boiling point of fluid in the reservoir may not be representative of the fluid in the caliper. Less of an issue in normal use as it's chronic hygroscopic absorption that's the concern there - but on a tracked car, the fluid in the caliper will have undergone many heat cycles and may have suffered micro-boiling where it touches the piston, whereas the reservoir environment is pretty benign. So I'd have to drain caliper fluid anyway to measure that. Doing that a few times with a decent meter would give me the information I'm looking for and may allow me to prolong my intervals to 6 months, 4 trackdays or whatever. Maybe I will at some point in the future. If I was tracking more regularly, it would certainly make sense and save me some money. But for the 4-6 trackdays a year I do, I'm quite happy to continue swapping it out every 2 trackdays until someone gives me some solid evidence that in my particular application, I don't have to.
@Losing_Grip - apologies for the thread hijack!
A decent socket set, spanner set and screwdriver set, a good jack, a good torque wrench and perhaps a breaker bar are typically enough to be going on with. Make sure you have a decent range of hex & torx bits. You can always grow your collection from there.
Edited by motorhole on Tuesday 11th August 15:36
For me in an Impreza STi:
£150-£300 entrance
£200-£250 fuel ( including driving to and from venue.
£150 - A set of tyres every 4 track days (£600 ÷ 4)
£57 - brake pads every 6-8 track days. (£400 ÷ 7)
+ anything that breaks.
Total = £557 - £757
It was maybe £200 cheaper when I used to use my Megane and would be more if I insured.
£150-£300 entrance
£200-£250 fuel ( including driving to and from venue.
£150 - A set of tyres every 4 track days (£600 ÷ 4)
£57 - brake pads every 6-8 track days. (£400 ÷ 7)
+ anything that breaks.
Total = £557 - £757
It was maybe £200 cheaper when I used to use my Megane and would be more if I insured.
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