BMW M140i - Track Setup and Cost
Discussion
Hi all,
I’m planning on embarking on the highly addictive and unfortunately, potentially expensive hobby of doing track days in the M140 in the new year. First track being Anglesey in Feb!
For background I plan on just using the car as stock to begin with then adding brakes, tyres, etc as they wear out or when I feel the need and cost of upgrading is worth it. But the car must be suitable for everyday use as well but willing to have a spare set of wheels.
To help myself and others who are interested in taking their M140 on a track day, I will be updating this post with cost of upgrades and necessity!
BRAKES -
Standard rears ok for track days but the fronts will wear very quickly and may only last one track day, let alone overheat frequently! Therefore, the first mod is brakes and pads!
BRAKE PADS:
Pagid RS29 - £250
Ferodo DS2500 Front Pads- £190 https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
Stoptech Front Pads - £193 https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
EBC Orange Stuff Front Pads - £222.12 https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
BRAKE FLUID:
DOT 5.1 brake fluid - £20 per Litre
https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
TYRES
Michelin Pilot SuperSports are ok for a track day however they melt at 60 degrees and therefore limit the amount of laps you can do per session. No matter what tyres the outer edge wears due to cornering forces on the tyre and therefore you may want M4 control arms or camber adjustment if you get serious about track days.
SQUARE TYRE AND WHEEL SETUP (This is apparently best and allows for swapping wheels front to back to save on cost)
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 - 18x8”45 5x120 £680
4xYokohama AD08R 225/40 R18 - £500 / £125 per tyre (Demon Tweeks)
4xNankang NS2R 225/40/R18 - £320 / £80 per tyre (Demon Tweeks)
SUSPENSION -
Not required to enjoy most track days but if you get serious it is probably best to get a fully adjustable set up for track work.
SUSPENSION:
BILSTEIN B16 or KW v2 - circa £1500
Open to all suggestions!
I’m planning on embarking on the highly addictive and unfortunately, potentially expensive hobby of doing track days in the M140 in the new year. First track being Anglesey in Feb!
For background I plan on just using the car as stock to begin with then adding brakes, tyres, etc as they wear out or when I feel the need and cost of upgrading is worth it. But the car must be suitable for everyday use as well but willing to have a spare set of wheels.
To help myself and others who are interested in taking their M140 on a track day, I will be updating this post with cost of upgrades and necessity!
BRAKES -
Standard rears ok for track days but the fronts will wear very quickly and may only last one track day, let alone overheat frequently! Therefore, the first mod is brakes and pads!
BRAKE PADS:
Pagid RS29 - £250
Ferodo DS2500 Front Pads- £190 https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
Stoptech Front Pads - £193 https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
EBC Orange Stuff Front Pads - £222.12 https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
BRAKE FLUID:
DOT 5.1 brake fluid - £20 per Litre
https://www.mlperformance.co.uk/collections/bmw-pe...
TYRES
Michelin Pilot SuperSports are ok for a track day however they melt at 60 degrees and therefore limit the amount of laps you can do per session. No matter what tyres the outer edge wears due to cornering forces on the tyre and therefore you may want M4 control arms or camber adjustment if you get serious about track days.
SQUARE TYRE AND WHEEL SETUP (This is apparently best and allows for swapping wheels front to back to save on cost)
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 - 18x8”45 5x120 £680
4xYokohama AD08R 225/40 R18 - £500 / £125 per tyre (Demon Tweeks)
4xNankang NS2R 225/40/R18 - £320 / £80 per tyre (Demon Tweeks)
SUSPENSION -
Not required to enjoy most track days but if you get serious it is probably best to get a fully adjustable set up for track work.
SUSPENSION:
BILSTEIN B16 or KW v2 - circa £1500
Open to all suggestions!
Edited by Scribble BM on Wednesday 12th December 20:19
Edited by Scribble BM on Sunday 13th January 10:53
Edited by Scribble BM on Sunday 13th January 10:53
Don't want to make any prejudgement, please don't take any offense. but it seems to me, that if you are asking about pads and tyres prices, maybe a 140i is going to be too expensive for you to run on a track.
Modern performance cars are VERY expensive to run on track, and usually, you only see them around on track days in the full track guise (roll cage, buckets, upgraded suspension, areo bits etc) run by people that throw crazy amounts of money in the car.
It is gonna be ok for one or two trackdays, but it's gone be a bloody money hole if your intention is to make a track day car (even a civilised one).
Take all the costs you've planned, double them up, and then imagine you blow up a component that costs £2k. Do you still feel comfortable spending that amount? Then go for it.
If not, consider keeping your 140i for road use, and buying some old bargain which will be much cheaper to run on a track, and will have loads of second hand bits to replace when anything fails.
Said that, for my humble 120i, I spent £480 on a set of yokohamas and around £500 on DS2500 + discs + braided hoses + fluid. So I'd say, being a bigger car, it will be a bit more expensive in your case.
Modern performance cars are VERY expensive to run on track, and usually, you only see them around on track days in the full track guise (roll cage, buckets, upgraded suspension, areo bits etc) run by people that throw crazy amounts of money in the car.
It is gonna be ok for one or two trackdays, but it's gone be a bloody money hole if your intention is to make a track day car (even a civilised one).
Take all the costs you've planned, double them up, and then imagine you blow up a component that costs £2k. Do you still feel comfortable spending that amount? Then go for it.
If not, consider keeping your 140i for road use, and buying some old bargain which will be much cheaper to run on a track, and will have loads of second hand bits to replace when anything fails.
Said that, for my humble 120i, I spent £480 on a set of yokohamas and around £500 on DS2500 + discs + braided hoses + fluid. So I'd say, being a bigger car, it will be a bit more expensive in your case.
Edited by osdecar on Wednesday 21st November 15:01
Thanks, I understand your concerns but I am not planning on going all out track car. That would just be the dream!
At the minute I am just looking to do 3 or 4 track days a year for a bit of fun. I already do one big road trip to the alps/ Scotland/ etc so I imagine the brakes would a great help there as well.
All I was wondering for now is will the car be ok for a fun a track day as stock. Or do even the brake pads and fluids need upgrading to do even that?
At the minute I am just looking to do 3 or 4 track days a year for a bit of fun. I already do one big road trip to the alps/ Scotland/ etc so I imagine the brakes would a great help there as well.
All I was wondering for now is will the car be ok for a fun a track day as stock. Or do even the brake pads and fluids need upgrading to do even that?
Never done a trackday with standard brakes, but I imagine they will overheat quite quickly, so you will have to make breaks more often. So you'll be much better during open pit lane days
In that sense, you should be fine with the Ferodo. However, bear in mind they can be a bit noisy, specially in the city. Not much to be honest, but they were a bit annoying to me.
Regarding the tyres, if you can buy an extra set of alloys, and use the semislick only during track days, the yokohamas will last for a very long time.
In that sense, you should be fine with the Ferodo. However, bear in mind they can be a bit noisy, specially in the city. Not much to be honest, but they were a bit annoying to me.
Regarding the tyres, if you can buy an extra set of alloys, and use the semislick only during track days, the yokohamas will last for a very long time.
I've a friend with an AC Schnizter tuned M135i who will be able to help you with some of your questions....he's away at present, though I'll ask him when I see him as he's uprated the pads and tyres as per your preferred choice although his car already has uprated suspension I think (& his car is stage 2 tuned).
OP, are you doing the BMWCC track day at Anglesey at the end of Feb?
OP, are you doing the BMWCC track day at Anglesey at the end of Feb?
Thanks Mrc986.
If he was at Outlon for BMWCarclub I met him and he kindly took me out in his AC Schnitzer M135i!
He is running Ferodo DS2500 I think and said they were fine for 20minute stints combined with Yokohama tyres which he has had for over 10k miles 😳.
I am hoping for to attend the BMWCC day arbor anglesey yes
If he was at Outlon for BMWCarclub I met him and he kindly took me out in his AC Schnitzer M135i!
He is running Ferodo DS2500 I think and said they were fine for 20minute stints combined with Yokohama tyres which he has had for over 10k miles 😳.
I am hoping for to attend the BMWCC day arbor anglesey yes
Scribble BM said:
Thanks, I understand your concerns but I am not planning on going all out track car. That would just be the dream!
At the minute I am just looking to do 3 or 4 track days a year for a bit of fun. I already do one big road trip to the alps/ Scotland/ etc so I imagine the brakes would a great help there as well.
All I was wondering for now is will the car be ok for a fun a track day as stock. Or do even the brake pads and fluids need upgrading to do even that?
I had a M135i 3dr hatch from new in 2014, if I'm honest I don't think it will make a particularly great track car. It is a very quick car on the road, but I found it lacking feel and the short wheelbase/open diff made it hard to catch if it lets go.At the minute I am just looking to do 3 or 4 track days a year for a bit of fun. I already do one big road trip to the alps/ Scotland/ etc so I imagine the brakes would a great help there as well.
All I was wondering for now is will the car be ok for a fun a track day as stock. Or do even the brake pads and fluids need upgrading to do even that?
Buy yourself a Clio 172 or MX5 for a grand, that's how much a set of tyres will cost on the BMW after you roast them in 2 days. Not including the brakes etc.
However, if you are set on the 140 for track at a minimum I would say pads and some decent tyres would do. Track days are very hard on road tyres, my old 350z did a brand new pair of tyres in 1 day, as well as a new set of DS2500 pads, I would assume that is a similar weight to your car.
If you don't go mad and are happy to go out for only 10 mins at a time you'll be ok, but it's easy to get carried away and stay out longer!
If you can fit them in the back of the car, a lot of the E46 M3 boys run old BTCC slicks on spare wheels, you can find those for around £40 a corner, be aware not all TDOs allow slicks and obviously they aren't much cop in the wet.
I would imagine that for your first few track days you aren't going to take too much out of the car in terms of pads/tyres.
I would just note down the remaining tyre depth and remaining pads before/after each day so that you can judge when they'll need changing. You may also wish to modify your alignment in due course e.g. more front camber to provide more grip and stop your outside edges from wearing out.
I would just note down the remaining tyre depth and remaining pads before/after each day so that you can judge when they'll need changing. You may also wish to modify your alignment in due course e.g. more front camber to provide more grip and stop your outside edges from wearing out.
osdecar said:
Don't want to make any prejudgement, please don't take any offense. but it seems to me, that if you are asking about pads and tyres prices, maybe a 140i is going to be too expensive for you to run on a track.
Modern performance cars are VERY expensive to run on track, and usually, you only see them around on track days in the full track guise (roll cage, buckets, upgraded suspension, areo bits etc) run by people that throw crazy amounts of money in the car.
It is gonna be ok for one or two trackdays, but it's gone be a bloody money hole if your intention is to make a track day car (even a civilised one).
Take all the costs you've planned, double them up, and then imagine you blow up a component that costs £2k. Do you still feel comfortable spending that amount? Then go for it.
If not, consider keeping your 140i for road use, and buying some old bargain which will be much cheaper to run on a track, and will have loads of second hand bits to replace when anything fails.
I totally agree with this. I tracked my Focus RS once and it was great fun but the amount of wear on tyres and brakes over just a couple of sessions along with the rubber and stones that get flicked up and marks the paint made me think twice and I bought a megane R26 for the track/Nurburgring trips which is so much lighter on consumables and less of an expense/worry when it goes on the grass or gravel on a track which can and does happen.Modern performance cars are VERY expensive to run on track, and usually, you only see them around on track days in the full track guise (roll cage, buckets, upgraded suspension, areo bits etc) run by people that throw crazy amounts of money in the car.
It is gonna be ok for one or two trackdays, but it's gone be a bloody money hole if your intention is to make a track day car (even a civilised one).
Take all the costs you've planned, double them up, and then imagine you blow up a component that costs £2k. Do you still feel comfortable spending that amount? Then go for it.
If not, consider keeping your 140i for road use, and buying some old bargain which will be much cheaper to run on a track, and will have loads of second hand bits to replace when anything fails.
Also if it's your only car you should know that track use is so much harder than any fast road driving and things do wear out and maybe even break which can make your journey to work on a Monday Morning a non starter if you don't have a spare car.
Having been on track alongside £25k m140i's they are a bit faster in a straight line but in the corners are no faster than my £6k Renault but the Renault generally laps for much longer stints and costs much less in consumables.
If you are just going to do a couple of 30min taster sessions then it will be great fun but if you want to do regular full day open pitlane days I'd suggest buying another car.
Edited by Ahbefive on Wednesday 21st November 21:14
Scribble BM said:
All I was wondering for now is will the car be ok for a fun a track day as stock. Or do even the brake pads and fluids need upgrading to do even that?
Scrib, Sounds like your first track day and you'll be fine. If your front brake pads are more than half worn then I suggest replacing them or monitoring closely on the day.
Understand the stability control modes. If off, really means off, then I'd suggest you leave the stability control on.
You will be the biggest risk, decide if you can afford to bin a £20K car and walk away. If not, stump up for the insurance.
I'm sure you will enjoy the day and will be back for more.
Pedro.
Scribble BM said:
Hi all,
I’m planning on embarking on the highly addictive and unfortunately, potentially expensive hobby of doing track days in the M140 in the new year. First track being Anglesey in Feb!
For background I plan on just using the car as stock to begin with then adding brakes, tyres, etc as they wear out or when I feel the need cost of upgrading is worth it. But the car must be suitable for everyday use as well but willing to have a spare set of wheels.
I know there is some info in the FAQ section but hopefully we can add to that. first set of questions are:
Will the stock car be fine doing 10/15 minute session with cool down periods in between. I’ve heard people Overheating brakes and the super sports but is that just people trying long stints?
How many MM of Tyre and Brake wear is antipated on a track day with the standard pads and tyres?
Current first potential upgrade either before or after track day is brake pads and fluids. Has anyone fitted either Ferodo DS2500 or Pagid RS29 and could tell me the cost?
Ultimately i think the most realistic setup for the car, starting with cheapest and most needed MOD first is:
BRAKE PADS: Pagid RS29 or Ferodo DS2500 - £????
BRAKE FLUID: DOT 5.1 (doesn’t need changing as often as RBF fluid) - £20 per Litre
SQUARE TYRE AND WHEEL SETUP (This is apparently best and allows for swapping wheels front to back to save on cost)
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 - 8” £680
Yokohama AD08R 225/40 R18 - £500
SUSPENSION:
BILSTEIN B16 or KW v2 - circa £1500
M4 control arms - £300?
With these I imagine you could run decent stints and then happily cruise around off the track as well.
Open to all suggestions
Lol you missed the key thing - camber!! If you’re driving fast the M4 control arms are a waste of money unless you lower the car a lot. Millway do camber plates, get a set of those and you will save a fortune on tyres! I’m planning on embarking on the highly addictive and unfortunately, potentially expensive hobby of doing track days in the M140 in the new year. First track being Anglesey in Feb!
For background I plan on just using the car as stock to begin with then adding brakes, tyres, etc as they wear out or when I feel the need cost of upgrading is worth it. But the car must be suitable for everyday use as well but willing to have a spare set of wheels.
I know there is some info in the FAQ section but hopefully we can add to that. first set of questions are:
Will the stock car be fine doing 10/15 minute session with cool down periods in between. I’ve heard people Overheating brakes and the super sports but is that just people trying long stints?
How many MM of Tyre and Brake wear is antipated on a track day with the standard pads and tyres?
Current first potential upgrade either before or after track day is brake pads and fluids. Has anyone fitted either Ferodo DS2500 or Pagid RS29 and could tell me the cost?
Ultimately i think the most realistic setup for the car, starting with cheapest and most needed MOD first is:
BRAKE PADS: Pagid RS29 or Ferodo DS2500 - £????
BRAKE FLUID: DOT 5.1 (doesn’t need changing as often as RBF fluid) - £20 per Litre
SQUARE TYRE AND WHEEL SETUP (This is apparently best and allows for swapping wheels front to back to save on cost)
Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2 - 8” £680
Yokohama AD08R 225/40 R18 - £500
SUSPENSION:
BILSTEIN B16 or KW v2 - circa £1500
M4 control arms - £300?
With these I imagine you could run decent stints and then happily cruise around off the track as well.
Open to all suggestions
What’s your experience level?
I’ve moved on from my M135 but couldn’t disagree more with a lot of comments about them, they’re great on track - any stock car that can lap brands in 55 seconds is very fast.
Save your cash and use it to practice driving, just enjoy, they’re great cars 👍
Wouldn't put ds2500s on a wheel barrow let alone a heavy bmw, why are they even being discussed in same terms as one of the best all rounders- the rs29s? (Ok for light cars can be ok, but still far better options)
Are lots of other choices ds1.11 CL rc6 etc but rs29 perhaps the most popular for all round use, then can go beyond that for more hard core if little road use.
As said will need more camber up front, to avoid frustration lsd needed really & don't run with the traction control on as it will eat rear pads & a 225 is a skinny tyre for such a heavy car & 8j also seem narrow do they not run at least 9j on these?
Are lots of other choices ds1.11 CL rc6 etc but rs29 perhaps the most popular for all round use, then can go beyond that for more hard core if little road use.
As said will need more camber up front, to avoid frustration lsd needed really & don't run with the traction control on as it will eat rear pads & a 225 is a skinny tyre for such a heavy car & 8j also seem narrow do they not run at least 9j on these?
iguana said:
Wouldn't put ds2500s on a wheel barrow let alone a heavy bmw, why are they even being discussed in same terms as one of the best all rounders- the rs29s? (Ok for light cars can be ok, but still far better options)
Are lots of other choices ds1.11 CL rc6 etc but rs29 perhaps the most popular for all round use, then can go beyond that for more hard core if little road use.
As said will need more camber up front, to avoid frustration lsd needed really & don't run with the traction control on as it will eat rear pads & a 225 is a skinny tyre for such a heavy car & 8j also seem narrow do they not run at least 9j on these?
I've run DS2500 on my ex-120i and they were completely fine for starting in the track day world.Are lots of other choices ds1.11 CL rc6 etc but rs29 perhaps the most popular for all round use, then can go beyond that for more hard core if little road use.
As said will need more camber up front, to avoid frustration lsd needed really & don't run with the traction control on as it will eat rear pads & a 225 is a skinny tyre for such a heavy car & 8j also seem narrow do they not run at least 9j on these?
They might not be the best option available, but they are not bad by any measure.
I did 2 trackdays with them, not being the slowest on track by any means and not suffering fading at all. I also did 11 laps on the 'ring + the trip to Germany. And when I sold the car, they still had like 80% of their life on them.
The bedding process is critical for performance pads.
A brake fluid change and a pad upgrade is pretty much essential for your car before going on track IMHO.
I would suggest Castrol React SRF, not the cheapest but you won't have any problems with it. A bleed now and again and you are good to keep going.
The pagid pads you suggest are good, I've used them in an M car and had no trouble with them. Not cheap but they should last at least three or four track days.
Brake problems are the quite often the first issue you will have with a standard car on track. So a decent upgrade should see that issue off. Just be aware that standard rear pads on an M car can wear rapidly on track especially if the driver aids are busy! Its not critical to upgrade them, but just keep an eye on wear.
Track days are not just about lap times, they are about how much fun you are having and in your case learning what your road car can do without ending up getting arrested or worse.
When you do fit upgraded pads I'd suggest you don't run around on the road on them. No point wearing out expensive pads that are likely to cause more wear on your discs as well in my experience. Swap them out before and after each track day.
Don't get too hung up about suspension tweaks at this stage but be careful about tyre pressures. They are likely to increase significantly on track so you may need to reduce the hot pressures. Then be aware that they may need some air back in for the drive home or as soon as you get home. Get yourself a reliable accurate pressure gauge.
You don't say what tyres you have on your car at the moment but I would recommend Michelin pilot supersport as a good all round road and occasional track tyre. Pilot 4s are newer and get good reports but I've no experience of them.
Enjoy your car on track.
Wingo.
I would suggest Castrol React SRF, not the cheapest but you won't have any problems with it. A bleed now and again and you are good to keep going.
The pagid pads you suggest are good, I've used them in an M car and had no trouble with them. Not cheap but they should last at least three or four track days.
Brake problems are the quite often the first issue you will have with a standard car on track. So a decent upgrade should see that issue off. Just be aware that standard rear pads on an M car can wear rapidly on track especially if the driver aids are busy! Its not critical to upgrade them, but just keep an eye on wear.
Track days are not just about lap times, they are about how much fun you are having and in your case learning what your road car can do without ending up getting arrested or worse.
When you do fit upgraded pads I'd suggest you don't run around on the road on them. No point wearing out expensive pads that are likely to cause more wear on your discs as well in my experience. Swap them out before and after each track day.
Don't get too hung up about suspension tweaks at this stage but be careful about tyre pressures. They are likely to increase significantly on track so you may need to reduce the hot pressures. Then be aware that they may need some air back in for the drive home or as soon as you get home. Get yourself a reliable accurate pressure gauge.
You don't say what tyres you have on your car at the moment but I would recommend Michelin pilot supersport as a good all round road and occasional track tyre. Pilot 4s are newer and get good reports but I've no experience of them.
Enjoy your car on track.
Wingo.
Thanks everyone for the feedback.
I have spoken to someone who runs DS2500 at Oulton in an M135i and he seemed to be able to do great stints and didn’t have fade. I also think they are a little cheaper than Pagid RS29. So for now it is looking like just new pads and fluid for February!
I will probably stick to my standard PSS tyres for now as it will probably be cold and maybe damp in February at Anglesey anyway.
Then when I invavitably get the bug I’ll get some new 18x8 rims and either Nankang NS2r or AD08R tyres for the summer 😊.
I’ll probably be getting track day insurance through Morris for circa £140 for the day.
I will let you know how I get on and hopefully see some people at Anglesey February 23rd.
I have spoken to someone who runs DS2500 at Oulton in an M135i and he seemed to be able to do great stints and didn’t have fade. I also think they are a little cheaper than Pagid RS29. So for now it is looking like just new pads and fluid for February!
I will probably stick to my standard PSS tyres for now as it will probably be cold and maybe damp in February at Anglesey anyway.
Then when I invavitably get the bug I’ll get some new 18x8 rims and either Nankang NS2r or AD08R tyres for the summer 😊.
I’ll probably be getting track day insurance through Morris for circa £140 for the day.
I will let you know how I get on and hopefully see some people at Anglesey February 23rd.
I'd stick some decent pads in (DS2500 are my choice too) and see how it goes. The brakes are reasonable on the M140i IMO, if you dont go bonkers you'll be alright.
In reality, if you do a few days and enjoy it as much as I did it'll be worth chucking a few quid at a cheap car to smash about in, it's much more enjoyable when you aren't worrying about getting to work in the car the next morning.
In reality, if you do a few days and enjoy it as much as I did it'll be worth chucking a few quid at a cheap car to smash about in, it's much more enjoyable when you aren't worrying about getting to work in the car the next morning.
I'd echo a lot of the above about just doing the fluid and maybe pads, leave the rest till later.
I would add Mintex F4R pads as a good option if you're doing them, they last well and will take pretty much any number of laps without giving up. We've been doing 45 minute, 2 hour and 3 hour races on them with no problems. Google Questmead to buy those.
If you were at Oulton with the BMWCC you'll have seen that there's plenty of standard road kit on the club days so you'll be fine in the 140. Dates permitting I'll be at Anglesey as well so you'll probably have to put up with my recycled jokes and well rehearsed ad-libs in the briefing, sorry
.
I would add Mintex F4R pads as a good option if you're doing them, they last well and will take pretty much any number of laps without giving up. We've been doing 45 minute, 2 hour and 3 hour races on them with no problems. Google Questmead to buy those.
If you were at Oulton with the BMWCC you'll have seen that there's plenty of standard road kit on the club days so you'll be fine in the 140. Dates permitting I'll be at Anglesey as well so you'll probably have to put up with my recycled jokes and well rehearsed ad-libs in the briefing, sorry
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