Trailer wanted for Trackday Mini
Discussion
A decent used galvanised branded trailer e.g. Brian James, Woodford or Brenderup etc. the appropriate size will see you right. It won’t necessarily be the cheapest option at the outset but they hold their value well - I’ve made a small profit on 2 of my last 3 trailers by buying well and maintaining them. Fully decked down the middle (boarded between wheel platform areas) is useful as is a jerry can box, tyre rack, wheel chocks, tool box etc.
Check the hitch is fully functional, the jockey wheel winds all the way up and down, the tyres aren’t a million years old and cracked, the wheel bearings aren’t wobbly, the brake cables are OK, the brakes are free and functional and the lights work - the latter generally being simple fixes but frustratingly regular and all are bargaining points if you’re handy.
Single vs. twin axle is personal preference - I find singles generally easier to manoeuvre by hand but winding the jockey wheel down on a twin so the front axle comes off the ground helps a lot there. People say a twin is more stable in case of a blowout - I’m not necessarily convinced with all the weight immediately on one tyre - maintaining the tyres is my preferred option.
From personal experience ramps that stow under the bed and pull straight out are much less hassle to use than those that stow in between the wheel platforms and must be lifted in and out. I’ve never had a tilt bed trailer so can’t common on whether ramps or tilt bed are better. I imagine ground clearance might be the limiting factor getting your car on and off.
And when you get it chain the bugger down out of sight, preferably indoors if you can - they have a habit of going walkies... Also try to make it look unique/stand out to make it less attractive to thieves and take a good few reference photos of it just in case.
Check the hitch is fully functional, the jockey wheel winds all the way up and down, the tyres aren’t a million years old and cracked, the wheel bearings aren’t wobbly, the brake cables are OK, the brakes are free and functional and the lights work - the latter generally being simple fixes but frustratingly regular and all are bargaining points if you’re handy.
Single vs. twin axle is personal preference - I find singles generally easier to manoeuvre by hand but winding the jockey wheel down on a twin so the front axle comes off the ground helps a lot there. People say a twin is more stable in case of a blowout - I’m not necessarily convinced with all the weight immediately on one tyre - maintaining the tyres is my preferred option.
From personal experience ramps that stow under the bed and pull straight out are much less hassle to use than those that stow in between the wheel platforms and must be lifted in and out. I’ve never had a tilt bed trailer so can’t common on whether ramps or tilt bed are better. I imagine ground clearance might be the limiting factor getting your car on and off.
And when you get it chain the bugger down out of sight, preferably indoors if you can - they have a habit of going walkies... Also try to make it look unique/stand out to make it less attractive to thieves and take a good few reference photos of it just in case.
Very good write up, foggy, not a lot to add.
I have a single axle trailer for my track car, and spent a fair bit of money after buying it, getting it up to spec so that it was actually legal.
I looked first at the plate on it, to make sure it could carry the load - that was fine, 1700 kg.
I looked at the load limits on the tyres, fail. They were way inadequate, and my car only weighs 1100kg. Car plus trailer 1420kg
I ended up having to buy new bigger wheels and tyres for it, so that the tyres could carry the weight of car and trailer combined.
Use a public weighbridge for a fiver to find out the weight of your car, clobber and trailer.
Single axle is easier to move by hand, but harder to reverse attached to the car. It tends to turn round on you (sort of a reverse jack-knife).
And having towed both a car on single axle, and a horse trailer double axle, I can confirm that the double axle trailer is less prone to "wag" its tail at 60 mph downhill.
Always make sure you have the car far enough forward on the trailer to have at least 80kg of weight on the tow hitch. The consequence of having it too far back is that you get into a horrible weave at 55 mph exactly as you are overtaking 38 tonnes of Eddie Stobart's finest. New undercrackers required after that one. I managed that mistake when I put the car back on its trailer to take it home while the engine was being overhauled in the workshop, completely forgetting that removing 200-300 kg of Rover V8 from the front of the car would change the weight distribution of the trailer.
If I was doing it all again, I would buy as low as possible a triple axle trailer, with the trailer bed flat and the wheels completely underneath, no wheel arches. Ideally a tipping bed too.
Don't laugh too hard, but I have to tilt my single axle trailer up as far as possible on the (extra strong, cast metal clamped) jockey wheel, so that the underside of the car doesn't catch at the top of the ramps, take the roof off the car (you will see why later), get in, drive it up the trailer blind, run the front wheel into the stop at the front of the trailer, back off six inches, handbrake on, car in gear, engine off. Windows down, climb out of the car and drop down to the road - the trailer wheel arches stop me opening the car doors - put the roof back on, close the roof catches, get a 6 foot piece of copper tube, open the passenger door a crack, and work the window switches on the centre console from outside the car. Yes, I said don't laugh. A picture speaks 1000 worms.
I have a single axle trailer for my track car, and spent a fair bit of money after buying it, getting it up to spec so that it was actually legal.
I looked first at the plate on it, to make sure it could carry the load - that was fine, 1700 kg.
I looked at the load limits on the tyres, fail. They were way inadequate, and my car only weighs 1100kg. Car plus trailer 1420kg
I ended up having to buy new bigger wheels and tyres for it, so that the tyres could carry the weight of car and trailer combined.
Use a public weighbridge for a fiver to find out the weight of your car, clobber and trailer.
Single axle is easier to move by hand, but harder to reverse attached to the car. It tends to turn round on you (sort of a reverse jack-knife).
And having towed both a car on single axle, and a horse trailer double axle, I can confirm that the double axle trailer is less prone to "wag" its tail at 60 mph downhill.
Always make sure you have the car far enough forward on the trailer to have at least 80kg of weight on the tow hitch. The consequence of having it too far back is that you get into a horrible weave at 55 mph exactly as you are overtaking 38 tonnes of Eddie Stobart's finest. New undercrackers required after that one. I managed that mistake when I put the car back on its trailer to take it home while the engine was being overhauled in the workshop, completely forgetting that removing 200-300 kg of Rover V8 from the front of the car would change the weight distribution of the trailer.
If I was doing it all again, I would buy as low as possible a triple axle trailer, with the trailer bed flat and the wheels completely underneath, no wheel arches. Ideally a tipping bed too.
Don't laugh too hard, but I have to tilt my single axle trailer up as far as possible on the (extra strong, cast metal clamped) jockey wheel, so that the underside of the car doesn't catch at the top of the ramps, take the roof off the car (you will see why later), get in, drive it up the trailer blind, run the front wheel into the stop at the front of the trailer, back off six inches, handbrake on, car in gear, engine off. Windows down, climb out of the car and drop down to the road - the trailer wheel arches stop me opening the car doors - put the roof back on, close the roof catches, get a 6 foot piece of copper tube, open the passenger door a crack, and work the window switches on the centre console from outside the car. Yes, I said don't laugh. A picture speaks 1000 worms.
Great write ups, thanks both of you.
So to reveiw, twin axle is ok and almost better for vehicle manuvering, but harder for humans.
Buy well and you won't loose money, ie ebay / autotrader / here?
Make it unique to reduce theft risk.
What sort of money should I be looking at I was hoping for around the £1k figure, but think I will be nearer £2k,
Many Thanks again.
V.
So to reveiw, twin axle is ok and almost better for vehicle manuvering, but harder for humans.
Buy well and you won't loose money, ie ebay / autotrader / here?
Make it unique to reduce theft risk.
What sort of money should I be looking at I was hoping for around the £1k figure, but think I will be nearer £2k,
Many Thanks again.
V.
I’ve never really noticed any difference between single and twin axle manoeuvrability - it’s likely that singles tend to be shorter so are more challenging to manoeuvre and easier to jack knife. I expect you’re looking at a twin for the weight you’re looking to carry.
Price wise £1400-2k is a ball park budget for a decent used trailer depending on brand, age and condition. There’s eBay, Gumtree, Race Cars Direct, dedicated forums e.g. here, Uphill Racers, trailer dealers, even a google search for trailers for sale.
Price wise £1400-2k is a ball park budget for a decent used trailer depending on brand, age and condition. There’s eBay, Gumtree, Race Cars Direct, dedicated forums e.g. here, Uphill Racers, trailer dealers, even a google search for trailers for sale.
As foggy says, weight will be the determining factor. if a single axle trailer, with your Mini each wheel will need to be rated to carry 900 kg. That will mean bigger wheels, and some pretty tough tyres. Mine are van tyres and are at 65 psi.
Double axle reduces this to 450 kg per tyre, much more likely and also possible with smaller wheels/tyres.
Double axle reduces this to 450 kg per tyre, much more likely and also possible with smaller wheels/tyres.
Might be a bit bigger than you need but this looks ok
https://www.britishrally.co.uk/classifieds_view.ph...
I hire the same to tow a Clio 200, it's closer to my current tow car weight limit than I would like really so not the right thing for me to buy but it tows nicely. (no affiliation to seller)
https://www.britishrally.co.uk/classifieds_view.ph...
I hire the same to tow a Clio 200, it's closer to my current tow car weight limit than I would like really so not the right thing for me to buy but it tows nicely. (no affiliation to seller)
Thanks for all your replies, really helpful (as ever in PH)
I check the spec of my Vito business / day van yesterday and it is rated at 2000kg for a tow limit, so not sure if I would get away with tugging a 2500 plates trailer even if it only has my 1350kg Mini on it.
I could get the trailer re-rated, but could be a pain if I came to sell and wanted to change it up again.
I check the spec of my Vito business / day van yesterday and it is rated at 2000kg for a tow limit, so not sure if I would get away with tugging a 2500 plates trailer even if it only has my 1350kg Mini on it.
I could get the trailer re-rated, but could be a pain if I came to sell and wanted to change it up again.
VEX said:
Thanks for all your replies, really helpful (as ever in PH)
I check the spec of my Vito business / day van yesterday and it is rated at 2000kg for a tow limit, so not sure if I would get away with tugging a 2500 plates trailer even if it only has my 1350kg Mini on it.
I could get the trailer re-rated, but could be a pain if I came to sell and wanted to change it up again.
TrickyI check the spec of my Vito business / day van yesterday and it is rated at 2000kg for a tow limit, so not sure if I would get away with tugging a 2500 plates trailer even if it only has my 1350kg Mini on it.
I could get the trailer re-rated, but could be a pain if I came to sell and wanted to change it up again.
For private use the plating issue isn't relevant as long as the actual trailer plus load weight is below the various permissible limits of the tow vehicle/trailer etc. You described it as 'business' though so may have to consider how you would deal with a challenge to private or business use if needed.
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