Discussion
Ok not being that clued up on Geo settings I got the car ( MR2 Mk3 roadster ) in to have a full Geo set up and the below numbers for camber were the were .
Before
Left 1.39
Right 0.48
After
Left 2.27
Right 2.26
The rear camber was
Before
Left 1.03
Right 0.53
After
Left 1.29
Right 1.30
The before numbers are different form each side so what effect would this of had on how the car drove ?
The new numbers are all now in line with each corner but should I be running more rear camber ?
I do have the powerflex rear camber bolts installed that can give 1.75 of adjustment .
I told the company we are new to track days and that we were after a more stable rear end that would not step out so easy and they said that on the rear the have set this up more neutral and would not slide at the rear so easy but when it does it will be more harder to catch but can adjust more but to see how we got on .
As this is all new to me am I correct in thinking that the car will drive much better now from the old set up but I may need bit more rear camber .
Im still trying to understand what affect camber has at the front and back and what set up would be best .
Regards
Before
Left 1.39
Right 0.48
After
Left 2.27
Right 2.26
The rear camber was
Before
Left 1.03
Right 0.53
After
Left 1.29
Right 1.30
The before numbers are different form each side so what effect would this of had on how the car drove ?
The new numbers are all now in line with each corner but should I be running more rear camber ?
I do have the powerflex rear camber bolts installed that can give 1.75 of adjustment .
I told the company we are new to track days and that we were after a more stable rear end that would not step out so easy and they said that on the rear the have set this up more neutral and would not slide at the rear so easy but when it does it will be more harder to catch but can adjust more but to see how we got on .
As this is all new to me am I correct in thinking that the car will drive much better now from the old set up but I may need bit more rear camber .
Im still trying to understand what affect camber has at the front and back and what set up would be best .
Regards
Looks like a reasonable base setup to me, it will be an improvement over the original for sure.
The camber is dependent on various parameters and you set it up depending on tyre temps across the tyre surface and conditions. The alignment place can only take a guess at what might be a good base setting and what you have there is fine - especially for a beginner.
Toe is the big hitter in terms of feel and confidence, the new settings will be very manageable for a beginner.
Dunc.
The camber is dependent on various parameters and you set it up depending on tyre temps across the tyre surface and conditions. The alignment place can only take a guess at what might be a good base setting and what you have there is fine - especially for a beginner.
Toe is the big hitter in terms of feel and confidence, the new settings will be very manageable for a beginner.
Dunc.
I'd agree it looks like a sensible starting point and will be an improvement.
Why do you assume that more camber will be better?
There are a number of variables mostly in tyres which will affect the ideal setup but if you're running radial tyres on normal sized wheels there could well be negatives associated with adding more camber.
Why do you assume that more camber will be better?
There are a number of variables mostly in tyres which will affect the ideal setup but if you're running radial tyres on normal sized wheels there could well be negatives associated with adding more camber.
Agree with the above (I assume you mean negative camber) as a good starting point that will be a significant improvement over stock.
You should have more negative camber front over rear.
If you want any confirmation of this look at any open-wheel racing car (eg F1) and you will see the fronts more turned in at the top over the rears.
You should have more negative camber front over rear.
If you want any confirmation of this look at any open-wheel racing car (eg F1) and you will see the fronts more turned in at the top over the rears.
To answer your questions, a difference in geometry (camber in this case) can affect how the car turns/responds from left to right, obviously there are other factors involved, but in lamens terms and assuming all else is equal, the side with more negative camber will turn and settle into the lean attitude when cornering, woth the other side tou might feel tiny bit more resistance in turnin response from the wheel and the car may be more unsettled (loose grip sooner) once into the lean.
Camber's purpose is to lean the tyre away from vertical, so when you are cornering and the car has leant over, the tyre during that condition is back to vertical, thus giving you maximum tyre contact patch and therefore grip during cornering conditions.
As others have pointed out however tyres play a big factor, specifically tyre side wall and stiffness (but also suspension, bushes etc. can be a factor). Example, my car runs -3deg front and -2.5deg rear camber lowered on coilovers with roll centre amd bump steer correction kit installed. Running on Continental Sport Contact 3 or 5 tyres, despite using the OEM tyre size for the wheels (not stretching the tyres) in all cases im wearing out the outer edges of the tyre including some of the side wall getting ripped up consistently way before the rest of the tyre tread is, and no its not because of tyre pressure 35psi hot is not the reason fornthe tyre wearing like that. What does this mean? It means that the side wall of the tyre is not holding up to the cornering forces it is being subjected to (need a stiffer side wall), alternatively I have to go slower through the corners.
In your case, go out there and have fun, with Geo done the car should feel like less hard work and more consistent (assuming same tyres on all 4 corners) check your tyre pressures after 2-3 hot laps and adjust, after that keep an eye on your tyre wear.
My advice is dont go with sticky tyres as a begginer and dont be afraid to learn to manage a slide here and there. You wont be fast but you will learn more that way and become a faster driver in due course.
Humour
Camber's purpose is to lean the tyre away from vertical, so when you are cornering and the car has leant over, the tyre during that condition is back to vertical, thus giving you maximum tyre contact patch and therefore grip during cornering conditions.
As others have pointed out however tyres play a big factor, specifically tyre side wall and stiffness (but also suspension, bushes etc. can be a factor). Example, my car runs -3deg front and -2.5deg rear camber lowered on coilovers with roll centre amd bump steer correction kit installed. Running on Continental Sport Contact 3 or 5 tyres, despite using the OEM tyre size for the wheels (not stretching the tyres) in all cases im wearing out the outer edges of the tyre including some of the side wall getting ripped up consistently way before the rest of the tyre tread is, and no its not because of tyre pressure 35psi hot is not the reason fornthe tyre wearing like that. What does this mean? It means that the side wall of the tyre is not holding up to the cornering forces it is being subjected to (need a stiffer side wall), alternatively I have to go slower through the corners.
In your case, go out there and have fun, with Geo done the car should feel like less hard work and more consistent (assuming same tyres on all 4 corners) check your tyre pressures after 2-3 hot laps and adjust, after that keep an eye on your tyre wear.
My advice is dont go with sticky tyres as a begginer and dont be afraid to learn to manage a slide here and there. You wont be fast but you will learn more that way and become a faster driver in due course.
Humour
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