S2K track day preparation
Discussion
As the title suggests...
I have just sold my Noble M400 and looking for a new track toy - I have always wanted (but never had) a S2K so now maybe the right time. I have previously had an MX-5 which we turbocharged (with built engine) and managed to get over 300 bhp out of it so no stranger to forced induction and the challenges it brings (ECU, cooling, transmission etc). I am ideally looking for a Rev 4 (preferably with red/black interior, aero and VSA - anyone lurking who wants to sell?) and plan to stick a supercharger on it and have already made contact with TTS to agree specification.
But a couple of questions.
Is there any general consensus on the best fast road coil overs (KW/others) or brake kits (Brembo/Tarox)? Comments and feedback from users would be appreciated - ideally links to suppliers.
Also the search for aero kits threw up zero!
A quick question as there are not many 2007+ with factory aeros around at the moment. How easy (and how much) are the OEM aero kits? I don't want to consider some cheap copy thanks. Also how effective are the factory aero kits at keeping the back end in check or are they just for show?
TIA
I have just sold my Noble M400 and looking for a new track toy - I have always wanted (but never had) a S2K so now maybe the right time. I have previously had an MX-5 which we turbocharged (with built engine) and managed to get over 300 bhp out of it so no stranger to forced induction and the challenges it brings (ECU, cooling, transmission etc). I am ideally looking for a Rev 4 (preferably with red/black interior, aero and VSA - anyone lurking who wants to sell?) and plan to stick a supercharger on it and have already made contact with TTS to agree specification.
But a couple of questions.
Is there any general consensus on the best fast road coil overs (KW/others) or brake kits (Brembo/Tarox)? Comments and feedback from users would be appreciated - ideally links to suppliers.
Also the search for aero kits threw up zero!
A quick question as there are not many 2007+ with factory aeros around at the moment. How easy (and how much) are the OEM aero kits? I don't want to consider some cheap copy thanks. Also how effective are the factory aero kits at keeping the back end in check or are they just for show?
TIA
Sounds like u may want to look at the CR model. This is the track spec'd s2k from Honda.
The suspenision and aero will be already set up for u. I doubt these come with with vsa, not even sure how that wud cope with supercharged engine!
Maybe worth looking on the owners club website s2kuk and the forums (hosted at s2ki)
The suspenision and aero will be already set up for u. I doubt these come with with vsa, not even sure how that wud cope with supercharged engine!
Maybe worth looking on the owners club website s2kuk and the forums (hosted at s2ki)
craig7584 said:
Sounds like u may want to look at the CR model. This is the track spec'd s2k from Honda.
The suspenision and aero will be already set up for u. I doubt these come with with vsa, not even sure how that wud cope with supercharged engine!
Maybe worth looking on the owners club website s2kuk and the forums (hosted at s2ki)
CR never came to the UK and does not have adjustable suspension it also has the F22C engine which does take FI but is not a UK engine.The suspenision and aero will be already set up for u. I doubt these come with with vsa, not even sure how that wud cope with supercharged engine!
Maybe worth looking on the owners club website s2kuk and the forums (hosted at s2ki)
I had comptech blower on mine at 10 psi and got 420 BHP
I used Nitron Track suspension
Loved that car!
There are some issues with getting VSA to work with a blower
If you are going to track it and change the suspension forget rev4 get rev3
OEM aero is dead easy to it and could be bought prepainted from the dealers.
Here's a link to my build, it was more a GT Euro tour car that did a few track days
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/430184-mikes-super...
Edited by mikey k on Saturday 5th March 11:27
Thanks for the replies to date.
Mikey - understand the VSA point. Will drop it as would spend most of the time switched off anyway.
Why Rev3 over Rev4 (there is a nice high mileage Rev4 which looks great for a base car). What's the difference on the chassis/suspension?
I looked at your link but all the photos have gone - are they hosted elsewhere?
Is there any concencus view on the best aftermarket brake kits for high power/street use but will also withstand a bi-monthly track day - same with coil overs?
Mikey - understand the VSA point. Will drop it as would spend most of the time switched off anyway.
Why Rev3 over Rev4 (there is a nice high mileage Rev4 which looks great for a base car). What's the difference on the chassis/suspension?
I looked at your link but all the photos have gone - are they hosted elsewhere?
Is there any concencus view on the best aftermarket brake kits for high power/street use but will also withstand a bi-monthly track day - same with coil overs?
david.mt said:
Thanks for the replies to date.
Mikey - understand the VSA point. Will drop it as would spend most of the time switched off anyway.
Why Rev3 over Rev4 (there is a nice high mileage Rev4 which looks great for a base car). What's the difference on the chassis/suspension?
I looked at your link but all the photos have gone - are they hosted elsewhere?
Is there any concencus view on the best aftermarket brake kits for high power/street use but will also withstand a bi-monthly track day - same with coil overs?
No difference on chassis, tweaks to damper, spring & roll bar settings. All of which you are going to change Mikey - understand the VSA point. Will drop it as would spend most of the time switched off anyway.
Why Rev3 over Rev4 (there is a nice high mileage Rev4 which looks great for a base car). What's the difference on the chassis/suspension?
I looked at your link but all the photos have gone - are they hosted elsewhere?
Is there any concencus view on the best aftermarket brake kits for high power/street use but will also withstand a bi-monthly track day - same with coil overs?
Rev3 is wire throttle making SC conversions a lot easier! Rev4 is drive by wire complicating things! Photos should be OK I'm still a member on there but they have just upgraded the site.
Many of the regular track users stuck to OEM calipers with upgraded pads & discs. I never found the need to move from stock on my car. Of the regular trackers some used Bilstien PS99's, Nitron Tracks are better IME lighter more robust and more adjustment. If you are tracking it think about losing weight (including unsprung) and weight distribution
A further question - does anyone know how loud a Greddy Ti-C Titanium dual exhaust with silencer would be on a supercharged car. I had issues with the Noble being too loud for certain tracks and don't want to have the same problem with the next car.
Only asking as one of the choices already has the exhaust on - I prefer the stock exhaust.
Only asking as one of the choices already has the exhaust on - I prefer the stock exhaust.
Well the process has started - just bought a 2007 standard car in Moonrock. Relatively low miles and it does have VSA.
Spec to be confirmed but looking like:
Rotrex supercharger (14psi) with Flashpro and larger oil cooler
Competition stage 2 clutch
Tein flex coilovers with EDFC and full geo
Decat
Not sure about the brakes yet but Brembo will not fit under the stock wheels and I want a sleeper so the Tarox 6 pot kit looks favourite.
Is there any feedback on brake kits and how they perform over stock brakes. The tyres will of course be changed to something suitable - again what's the tyre of choice (and sizes front/rear) for fast road/track.
Anything else need changing/upgrading?
Spec to be confirmed but looking like:
Rotrex supercharger (14psi) with Flashpro and larger oil cooler
Competition stage 2 clutch
Tein flex coilovers with EDFC and full geo
Decat
Not sure about the brakes yet but Brembo will not fit under the stock wheels and I want a sleeper so the Tarox 6 pot kit looks favourite.
Is there any feedback on brake kits and how they perform over stock brakes. The tyres will of course be changed to something suitable - again what's the tyre of choice (and sizes front/rear) for fast road/track.
Anything else need changing/upgrading?
Good start
14 psi is quite high for stock internals & compression. After much research I settled on 12 psi as safe compromise. Belt slippage is also an issue at higher psi (smaller pulley).
The oil cooling is important as is the sump if you are going to track it.
The stock oil cooler is a water/oil heat exchanger built in to the oil filter base.
Do some more reseach on the clutch most UK FI guys stick to the stock one or ACT.
On the brakes many upgrade the pads, discs & fluid but leave the stock calipers.
Tein & EDFC is not too popular over here spring rates are waaaaaay to high
Look at Nitron Tracks, Bilstien PS99's and KW V3's. If you lower it consider adjustable rear toe arms and front rack spacers.
The S responds well to good light weight wheels & tyres (providing you do the geo as well )
They are a PITA to find as the S has strange offsets.
Consider front and rear lower braces, brake cylinder brace, clutch delay valve removal.
Have a think about weight loss - loser space saver, forged alloys, light exhaust, seats etc.
Noise checks on tracks are getting tighter so consider that as well!
From my experience of modding 4 S's over ten years and doing trackdays with them is if it aint broke don't fix it
Make one change at a time and understand what it has done good & bad.
14 psi is quite high for stock internals & compression. After much research I settled on 12 psi as safe compromise. Belt slippage is also an issue at higher psi (smaller pulley).
The oil cooling is important as is the sump if you are going to track it.
The stock oil cooler is a water/oil heat exchanger built in to the oil filter base.
Do some more reseach on the clutch most UK FI guys stick to the stock one or ACT.
On the brakes many upgrade the pads, discs & fluid but leave the stock calipers.
Tein & EDFC is not too popular over here spring rates are waaaaaay to high
Look at Nitron Tracks, Bilstien PS99's and KW V3's. If you lower it consider adjustable rear toe arms and front rack spacers.
The S responds well to good light weight wheels & tyres (providing you do the geo as well
)They are a PITA to find as the S has strange offsets.
Consider front and rear lower braces, brake cylinder brace, clutch delay valve removal.
Have a think about weight loss - loser space saver, forged alloys, light exhaust, seats etc.
Noise checks on tracks are getting tighter so consider that as well!
From my experience of modding 4 S's over ten years and doing trackdays with them is if it aint broke don't fix it
Make one change at a time and understand what it has done good & bad.
You need to head over to s2ki.co.uk - lots of knowledgeable folk over there. "MB" has a long build thread for a track focused S, so may be worth a gander.
I'm not sure if a charger will work with DBW models, so best to do some research.
Do some research on final drive changes, they make a huge difference.
ItchyDick's Rotrex charger for £13k or so would have made a good base car.
Enjoy
I'm not sure if a charger will work with DBW models, so best to do some research.
Do some research on final drive changes, they make a huge difference.
ItchyDick's Rotrex charger for £13k or so would have made a good base car.
Enjoy
Well Tein have ruled themselves out even though I liked the idea of the EDFC kit in the car. They don't have any stock and the lead time is over 3 weeks. Looks like the KW (V3) are the next choice.
The stock clutch would probably be alright with 10psi but 14psi (and beyond) it will need an uprated clutch - had ACT in cars before but you find issues with all makes somewhere on the internet.
It won't be lowered so much that rear toe arms and front rack spacers will be required but will keep an open mind on those.
I like the idea of bigger brakes and lightweight wheels etc but I do have to draw the line on the budget at some point. Maybe a future upgrade. The whole point of selling the Noble was to build a cheaper weekend/track car.
Adding lightness is always an easy win - I have been trying to diet (without success!) for years. I want to keep the interior stock as I went for a car with the colour combination/quality I wanted.
DBW works fine with the Hondata ECU so no issues there and I have considered other cars as a base but wanted to do know the history and build my own toy.
The stock clutch would probably be alright with 10psi but 14psi (and beyond) it will need an uprated clutch - had ACT in cars before but you find issues with all makes somewhere on the internet.
It won't be lowered so much that rear toe arms and front rack spacers will be required but will keep an open mind on those.
I like the idea of bigger brakes and lightweight wheels etc but I do have to draw the line on the budget at some point. Maybe a future upgrade. The whole point of selling the Noble was to build a cheaper weekend/track car.
Adding lightness is always an easy win - I have been trying to diet (without success!) for years. I want to keep the interior stock as I went for a car with the colour combination/quality I wanted.
DBW works fine with the Hondata ECU so no issues there and I have considered other cars as a base but wanted to do know the history and build my own toy.
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