Integra Type R buying advice.....
Discussion
Chaps,
I'm after any 'practical' advice re Integra Type R's, ie, what to look for when buying. I've just put my lovely Omega up for sale in the classifieds (don't laugh.......awesome cars and very underated!
) and the only car I'm looking at is the Integra. I miss the sound of VTEC after selling my S2000 last May, and I want something relatively inexpensive to start doing some trackdays in. The DC2 seems to fit the bill and I've set myself a budget of £5K max, which by the looks of things will get me a decent useable example.
I've registered over on ITR.DC2.com and it looks like a friendly and helpful forum. It seems that the two main things I need to look for are a good service history with regular good oil changes (which goes without saying really...), and rust on the rear wheel arches. Are there any other insider tips which I can view cars armed with? They seem relatively 'cheap' cars to run considering the performance, and I should be able to get insurance for an affordable amount (ie, less than an S2000!!
) I'll only be doing sub-4K mileage a year by the way, and the car will be garaged.
Any advice much appreciated!
I'm after any 'practical' advice re Integra Type R's, ie, what to look for when buying. I've just put my lovely Omega up for sale in the classifieds (don't laugh.......awesome cars and very underated!
) and the only car I'm looking at is the Integra. I miss the sound of VTEC after selling my S2000 last May, and I want something relatively inexpensive to start doing some trackdays in. The DC2 seems to fit the bill and I've set myself a budget of £5K max, which by the looks of things will get me a decent useable example. I've registered over on ITR.DC2.com and it looks like a friendly and helpful forum. It seems that the two main things I need to look for are a good service history with regular good oil changes (which goes without saying really...), and rust on the rear wheel arches. Are there any other insider tips which I can view cars armed with? They seem relatively 'cheap' cars to run considering the performance, and I should be able to get insurance for an affordable amount (ie, less than an S2000!!
) I'll only be doing sub-4K mileage a year by the way, and the car will be garaged.Any advice much appreciated!
You've done the sensible thing already by registering on the forum, and spotted the main issues. Also worth checking are worn syncro on the gearbox, second and fourth seem to be the worst offenders but any crunching will be obvious. Not a huge job to get a rebuild done so worth considering if you find a car you like otherwise. Seat bolsters can collapse but again, Capital Seating do a lot of spares for these seats. Recaro Speeds, as in Integrale/E30 M3s etc. Great seats actually.
Mileage wise, don't fret over 100k as the motor can take it, with regular oil of course. I do mine every 4500 miles or so (half what Honda "recommend") and use Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S which is what most will recommend on the board. It does seem to do the job. Also, some motors will use oil, some won't, its luck of the drawer really. Mine will use a lot on a trackday/good day out but normally is about average. Anything up to 1L/1000 miles is acceptable IMO.
As for running costs, mine's been cheap as chips, its not too far off a normal Civic if you ask me.
Mine's a 2000 UKDM X plater and only now is the rear arch starting to show signs of corrosion, so they're not all bad.
JDM models are slightly more suited to track use I believe, stiffer setup again, and UKDM better suited to road use. Again its apples and pears, both ride very well imo. Supple but stiff.
Mileage wise, don't fret over 100k as the motor can take it, with regular oil of course. I do mine every 4500 miles or so (half what Honda "recommend") and use Fuchs/Silkolene Pro S which is what most will recommend on the board. It does seem to do the job. Also, some motors will use oil, some won't, its luck of the drawer really. Mine will use a lot on a trackday/good day out but normally is about average. Anything up to 1L/1000 miles is acceptable IMO.
As for running costs, mine's been cheap as chips, its not too far off a normal Civic if you ask me.
Mine's a 2000 UKDM X plater and only now is the rear arch starting to show signs of corrosion, so they're not all bad.
JDM models are slightly more suited to track use I believe, stiffer setup again, and UKDM better suited to road use. Again its apples and pears, both ride very well imo. Supple but stiff.
Second everything Barry says, except for last paragraph - JDM '98 models are slightly stiffer and more suited to track work, but you won't get one for £5k.
JDM '96 model might be a starting point for a road/track car if you can pick one up cheaper AND are happy to do a front-brake conversion and change the wheels - the stock front discs are 260mm (282mm on UKDM and JDM '98), and you can't fit anything bigger under the 15" JDM wheels.
You might also find the gear linkage has worn slightly - expect a slight sideways 'wiggle' from the stick when in gear, but if it's more than a mm or so each way, then you may want to have a look at some point - not £££ or a big problem but won't help with the precision of changes, and if you're on track...
(Both mine had/have this - first more than second as I was rougher with the car back then)
Otherwise the usual stuff - budget for braided hoses, uprated pads and regular fluid changes.
JDM '96 model might be a starting point for a road/track car if you can pick one up cheaper AND are happy to do a front-brake conversion and change the wheels - the stock front discs are 260mm (282mm on UKDM and JDM '98), and you can't fit anything bigger under the 15" JDM wheels.
You might also find the gear linkage has worn slightly - expect a slight sideways 'wiggle' from the stick when in gear, but if it's more than a mm or so each way, then you may want to have a look at some point - not £££ or a big problem but won't help with the precision of changes, and if you're on track...
(Both mine had/have this - first more than second as I was rougher with the car back then)
Otherwise the usual stuff - budget for braided hoses, uprated pads and regular fluid changes.
Gearbox bearings are prone to wear - 1st motion shaft very common, not just the ITR but most of the smaller Honda 'boxes, quick Google will show you much owners pain. Easy to tell just depress the clutch pedal (and if you want select 1st gear to stop the box turning completely) and any bearing noise will stop completely (the full bearing & seal kit from Honda is £500, slightly less if not OEM. However just the 2 1st motion shafts arre OK to change making for a ~£300 job)
Clutch is another one. If pedal bite is low or high it's on the way (this is a £200 cost plus £150 fitting)
Clutch is another one. If pedal bite is low or high it's on the way (this is a £200 cost plus £150 fitting)
bonesX said:
Easy to tell just depress the clutch pedal (and if you want select 1st gear to stop the box turning completely) and any bearing noise will stop completely (the full bearing & seal kit from Honda is £500, slightly less if not OEM. However just the 2 1st motion shafts arre OK to change making for a ~£300 job)
Are you sure that's not just the release bearing...which should be changed with the clutch anyway.Just to add to this re. the rust mate
Tegs rot from the inside out, so if the above poster has just noticed rust coming through on the outside of the arches, i'd bet good money the inside is shot to buggery (sorry to be the bearer of bad news)
There is a design fault with the rear arches in the teg in that there is a small slit that lets water in to the rear quarter where it cant drain out and causes all the rust.
JDM cars should be ok if not in the uk for too long. I'v got a 1996 teg and thankfully its completely rot free (the only way to be 100% sure is to rip the interior out and have a look from the inside) but it's only been in the country a couple of years (imported in 08) and they dont salt the roads in Japan
I stripped mine back from the inside, checked the rust and sealed the slit up with silicone sealant so all is good now.
Search for "rear arch fault" on the forum and you will find heaps off stuff on it.
Tegs rot from the inside out, so if the above poster has just noticed rust coming through on the outside of the arches, i'd bet good money the inside is shot to buggery (sorry to be the bearer of bad news)
There is a design fault with the rear arches in the teg in that there is a small slit that lets water in to the rear quarter where it cant drain out and causes all the rust.
JDM cars should be ok if not in the uk for too long. I'v got a 1996 teg and thankfully its completely rot free (the only way to be 100% sure is to rip the interior out and have a look from the inside) but it's only been in the country a couple of years (imported in 08) and they dont salt the roads in Japan
I stripped mine back from the inside, checked the rust and sealed the slit up with silicone sealant so all is good now.
Search for "rear arch fault" on the forum and you will find heaps off stuff on it.
Lewtyper said:
Just to add to this re. the rust mate
Tegs rot from the inside out, so if the above poster has just noticed rust coming through on the outside of the arches, i'd bet good money the inside is shot to buggery (sorry to be the bearer of bad news)
There is a design fault with the rear arches in the teg in that there is a small slit that lets water in to the rear quarter where it cant drain out and causes all the rust.
JDM cars should be ok if not in the uk for too long. I'v got a 1996 teg and thankfully its completely rot free (the only way to be 100% sure is to rip the interior out and have a look from the inside) but it's only been in the country a couple of years (imported in 08) and they dont salt the roads in Japan
I stripped mine back from the inside, checked the rust and sealed the slit up with silicone sealant so all is good now.
Search for "rear arch fault" on the forum and you will find heaps off stuff on it.
Does it still happen if the wheelarches have been undersealed well?Tegs rot from the inside out, so if the above poster has just noticed rust coming through on the outside of the arches, i'd bet good money the inside is shot to buggery (sorry to be the bearer of bad news)
There is a design fault with the rear arches in the teg in that there is a small slit that lets water in to the rear quarter where it cant drain out and causes all the rust.
JDM cars should be ok if not in the uk for too long. I'v got a 1996 teg and thankfully its completely rot free (the only way to be 100% sure is to rip the interior out and have a look from the inside) but it's only been in the country a couple of years (imported in 08) and they dont salt the roads in Japan
I stripped mine back from the inside, checked the rust and sealed the slit up with silicone sealant so all is good now.
Search for "rear arch fault" on the forum and you will find heaps off stuff on it.
All depends if the gap has been spotted and filled in or not really mate.
http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46786
Probably give you a better idea of what i'm on about.
http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46786
Probably give you a better idea of what i'm on about.
Lewtyper said:
All depends if the gap has been spotted and filled in or not really mate.
http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46786
Probably give you a better idea of what i'm on about.
Brilliant, thanks http://www.itr-dc2.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46786
Probably give you a better idea of what i'm on about.
Lewtyper said:
Also, bigger wheels are not needed to uprate the brakes to 98 or uk spec on the jdm 96, spacers can be used or the caliper grinded slightly, it's a common upgrade for 96 owners and will definately go under the oem wheels.
Edited by Lewtyper on Wednesday 16th February 22:50
I've upgraded to 282mm front disks and 98spec calipers on my JDM-96, the wheels arn't OEM but still 15" standard fitment (Volks TE37s). The fit over the brakes can be described as 'snug' but the wheels went straight back on with no issues whatsoever (and no spacers or grinding were required).
Definately a worthwhile (and not particularly costly) upgrade on the jdm 96, especially if it is going to be tracked. In my experience there is a gulf of difference between the standard jdm 96spec brakes and the 98spec setup with uprated pads.
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