S2000 potential owner suspension questions
Discussion
Hi guys. I am considering buying an S2000. I currently have an RS Eunos and the S2000 seems the logical step-up.
I have considered an Elise s1 but want to use the car every day and take it away for weekends. Plus i like the front engined RWD balance.
I'm looking for one at around the 10k mark but have heard (rightly or wrongly) that they can be a little snappy at the limit. My current Eunos is very balanced and with it's torsen LSD it's easy to get the back end to break away progressively. I presume the S2000 is said to be a bit snappy due to wider tyres and a peaky engine.
My question is, is there anything that can be done to make it more controllable at the limit. I have has full 4 whell laser allignment done on my Euno and I understand that many cars can be set up to handle differently. Is this the case with the S2000? I may also fit some after market suspension. Are there any kits out there (at a resonable price) that will be suitable for fast road and occaisional track work and be more controllable at the limit?
Thanks in advance, Matt
I have considered an Elise s1 but want to use the car every day and take it away for weekends. Plus i like the front engined RWD balance.
I'm looking for one at around the 10k mark but have heard (rightly or wrongly) that they can be a little snappy at the limit. My current Eunos is very balanced and with it's torsen LSD it's easy to get the back end to break away progressively. I presume the S2000 is said to be a bit snappy due to wider tyres and a peaky engine.
My question is, is there anything that can be done to make it more controllable at the limit. I have has full 4 whell laser allignment done on my Euno and I understand that many cars can be set up to handle differently. Is this the case with the S2000? I may also fit some after market suspension. Are there any kits out there (at a resonable price) that will be suitable for fast road and occaisional track work and be more controllable at the limit?
Thanks in advance, Matt
It's "snappy" becouse Honda let them out the factory with shocking alignment.
Mine was slightly out of spec due to lower springs. But with steering rack spacers and adjustable rear toe arms, mine has been setup to handle very well. (The stock suspension even has res pots on the rear. Very track focused out the factory, shame they don't set them up well).
Everything is adjustable (camber, castor, toe). Just take it to somewhere good :
http://www.centergravity.co.uk/
or
http://www.tgmsports.co.uk/
Then it'll be very controlable on the limit.
Edited to say, I've been to both the above.
CG were great, they make you do some of the work, so you get a real good feel to what you are changing and why. Chris is a wizard at alignment and can advise very well.
TGM were a LOT cheaper, but I had to provide the "specs" I wanted, and they adjusted them. Not as accurate as CG, but cheaper, and a lot closer to me.
Mine was slightly out of spec due to lower springs. But with steering rack spacers and adjustable rear toe arms, mine has been setup to handle very well. (The stock suspension even has res pots on the rear. Very track focused out the factory, shame they don't set them up well).
Everything is adjustable (camber, castor, toe). Just take it to somewhere good :
http://www.centergravity.co.uk/
or
http://www.tgmsports.co.uk/
Then it'll be very controlable on the limit.
Edited to say, I've been to both the above.
CG were great, they make you do some of the work, so you get a real good feel to what you are changing and why. Chris is a wizard at alignment and can advise very well.
TGM were a LOT cheaper, but I had to provide the "specs" I wanted, and they adjusted them. Not as accurate as CG, but cheaper, and a lot closer to me.
Edited by Bibbs on Thursday 24th April 17:20
Bibbs has answered most of it.
As for after-market suspension, most is stiffer than the OE stuff so probably won't help with progression, but a lot of people like Nitrons as they get rid of the slight damper imbalance the rear seems to exhibit on bumpy roads under high cornering loads.
Geo makes a HUGE difference, as do cross-braces (lower one especially). Some people change the ARB's, and a few have even removed whatever it is at the rear that creates the passive rear-steer (extra toe-in under compression for stability...i.e. it creates lift-off-oversteer if you overcook it and back-off too sharply...great in fwd, not so good in rwd if you're not used to it...you'll probably be fine coming from a hardcore Eunos).
I've done cross-braces x3 (all except the rear-upper) and a CG geometry set-up (reduced rear camber and rear toe-in, reduced front castor), and I've got more feel and more progression...and on the right corners it's now a beauty. Can still bite if I'm silly though...
As for after-market suspension, most is stiffer than the OE stuff so probably won't help with progression, but a lot of people like Nitrons as they get rid of the slight damper imbalance the rear seems to exhibit on bumpy roads under high cornering loads.
Geo makes a HUGE difference, as do cross-braces (lower one especially). Some people change the ARB's, and a few have even removed whatever it is at the rear that creates the passive rear-steer (extra toe-in under compression for stability...i.e. it creates lift-off-oversteer if you overcook it and back-off too sharply...great in fwd, not so good in rwd if you're not used to it...you'll probably be fine coming from a hardcore Eunos).
I've done cross-braces x3 (all except the rear-upper) and a CG geometry set-up (reduced rear camber and rear toe-in, reduced front castor), and I've got more feel and more progression...and on the right corners it's now a beauty. Can still bite if I'm silly though...
I'm not in a position to comment on new coilovers, as I've not gone that route.
I've read that they need to be UK tweaked because of our cack roads (my last car had full JDM race coilovers and it was very harsh ride).
I'm trying to push the stock suspension as far as I can and once it breaks I'll look into replacements.
I've read that they need to be UK tweaked because of our cack roads (my last car had full JDM race coilovers and it was very harsh ride).
I'm trying to push the stock suspension as far as I can and once it breaks I'll look into replacements.
Give Chris a call. Depends what you need doing*, and whether you want him to visit you, whether you wait and go to an 'alignment meet' near you, or whether you can get to him. Budget £150-£250 and see if you can haggle!
- Greasing the suspension adjustment bolts is a common add-on, while he's under the car...
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