What if I don't change my cam chain. Ep3
Discussion
Hi. I can't find someone to change my EP3 type R cam chain and tensioner in the near future and want to get back into sprinting and hillclimbing it, having missed a season last year.
There is definitely a very brief rollercoaster noise on starting. It's done 126k miles. Last time it made the nose it went away when I changed the oil but let's assume doesn't this time.
I understand that a stretched chain could jump teeth but all I can find on the internet is that the impact of this is an engine light and limp home mode, rather than valves hitting pistons and engine destruction.
So part of me is tempted to compete anyway, if the worse happens I'll just have a bad day. Then find someone to replace the chain.
I think I might be being stupid.
There is definitely a very brief rollercoaster noise on starting. It's done 126k miles. Last time it made the nose it went away when I changed the oil but let's assume doesn't this time.
I understand that a stretched chain could jump teeth but all I can find on the internet is that the impact of this is an engine light and limp home mode, rather than valves hitting pistons and engine destruction.
So part of me is tempted to compete anyway, if the worse happens I'll just have a bad day. Then find someone to replace the chain.
I think I might be being stupid.
I did the cam chain on my FN2, there was no rattling, but the timing marks didn't line up perfectly when you checked the valve clearance. It was only stretched very slightly.
With the new one on it felt much faster. An extra 5mph going past my usual straight line speed marker point. If you are hillclimbing as competition rather than just for fun it might be the cheapest extra performance you'll get.
With the new one on it felt much faster. An extra 5mph going past my usual straight line speed marker point. If you are hillclimbing as competition rather than just for fun it might be the cheapest extra performance you'll get.
Duke Caboom said:
Thanks for all the replies. I'll try and get it done, though I still can't find anyone to do it within 150 miles of Norwich. I guess I'll be able to travel soon. Which should help.
Probably not within your 150 mile range, but I'd recommend the lads at Honda HQ in Cannock. Probably have a few week waiting time though.Can't speak for the K20, but when the chain stretched on my K24 it ran rough as f
k for the first 30 seconds but ran fine until I tried to restart it and it wouldn't start at all. No head/valve damage with a stretched chain though.Duke Caboom said:
Thanks for all the replies. I'll try and get it done, though I still can't find anyone to do it within 150 miles of Norwich. I guess I'll be able to travel soon. Which should help.
Brown and Sons in Loddon, about 15 miles from Norwich will certainly be able to sort out your EP3 chain. They’re a Honda specialist and replaced my chain in September 2020. I’ve been using them for a few years now and they have regular customers with S2000s, Accord Type Rs and Civic Type Rs, they do a thorough job.Duke Caboom said:
Booked in. Chap on the phone sounded knowledgeable so I'll look forward to getting it sorted. Would be great to have a "go to" place. Thanks for the steer.
That’ll be John. He knows his stuff and likes to use genuine Honda parts, no faffing around with cheap rubbish. Always been a lot cheaper than Lings Honda in Lowestoft.I had the piston come out side of an K20 engine on track, listening back to original videos I made, it does have a strange slightly rough metallic sounding noise to the engine note my current one does not, which I didn't necessarily notice at the time, just assumed that's the sound they make, as my first one.
Never really got the bottom of what caused it, difficult to sift through bits broken engine and work out what started the process of destruction, assumed oil starvation without baffle or over filling slightly but could have been the timing chain? OR possibly a scoring on bearings from being driven hard in it's past on low oil etc. Was just under 100k miles assuming it hadn't been clocked.
If the chain stretch my understanding is the ECU goes into limp mode, but depends I guess how much load the car is under, I assume it is possible for them to fail. Personally after my experiences I wouldn't risk any major maintenance item for hardcore use of any kind, everyone thinks K20s are bomb proof, and they can be if maintained but they still do go pop for a variety of reasons, mostly oil level/pressure related. If you speak to guys like Ginrspeed and TDI north, more than you'd think when it comes to track days etc. They regularly fit rebuilt/used engines.
I recently got new Honda TC & Tensioner, plus lightweight flywheel and clutch whilst engine out, gives a lot more confidence to lean on it, current car got 75k miles.
Think you've made right choice to get it done.
Never really got the bottom of what caused it, difficult to sift through bits broken engine and work out what started the process of destruction, assumed oil starvation without baffle or over filling slightly but could have been the timing chain? OR possibly a scoring on bearings from being driven hard in it's past on low oil etc. Was just under 100k miles assuming it hadn't been clocked.
If the chain stretch my understanding is the ECU goes into limp mode, but depends I guess how much load the car is under, I assume it is possible for them to fail. Personally after my experiences I wouldn't risk any major maintenance item for hardcore use of any kind, everyone thinks K20s are bomb proof, and they can be if maintained but they still do go pop for a variety of reasons, mostly oil level/pressure related. If you speak to guys like Ginrspeed and TDI north, more than you'd think when it comes to track days etc. They regularly fit rebuilt/used engines.
I recently got new Honda TC & Tensioner, plus lightweight flywheel and clutch whilst engine out, gives a lot more confidence to lean on it, current car got 75k miles.
Think you've made right choice to get it done.
Just as an update. As mentioned the listened to it, from cold, with on person's head under the bonnet and one in the car. They couldn't hear anything. Since then I remembered that I'd asked another firm, expirienced with them, to check it a few years, but only 4k miles ago, and they also said it was fine.
Current garage recommended an oil flush so its had that, a new (Honda) filter and oil change. No evidence from service history of a recent valve clearance adjustment, so had that done too.
It does less than 2k miles per year, so even if the chain only lasts 10k miles then I've got 5 years to think about it. It has an annual oil change so should always have good oil too.
Current garage recommended an oil flush so its had that, a new (Honda) filter and oil change. No evidence from service history of a recent valve clearance adjustment, so had that done too.
It does less than 2k miles per year, so even if the chain only lasts 10k miles then I've got 5 years to think about it. It has an annual oil change so should always have good oil too.
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