FN2 Type R gear selection issue
Discussion
Evening all,
Picked up a FN2 recently. I am planning to do clutch and timing chain in the future as a precaution.
I have however noticed something interesting on the new car. When cold the clutch seems to have some weight and all gears are easy to select.
After a couple of hours driving, the gear selection becomes notchy and harder to change smoothly. Also, the clutch feels lighter.
Reverse also has an added issue, that once warm, I can select reverse, but it can be hard to get out of and back to neutral. This again only appears to be the case after an hour or so.
Can any give me any idea on where to start looking?
Thanks for any advice.
Picked up a FN2 recently. I am planning to do clutch and timing chain in the future as a precaution.
I have however noticed something interesting on the new car. When cold the clutch seems to have some weight and all gears are easy to select.
After a couple of hours driving, the gear selection becomes notchy and harder to change smoothly. Also, the clutch feels lighter.
Reverse also has an added issue, that once warm, I can select reverse, but it can be hard to get out of and back to neutral. This again only appears to be the case after an hour or so.
Can any give me any idea on where to start looking?
Thanks for any advice.
Is the pedal only activating the clutch very close to the floor? It was on mine and I kept crunching gears, common problem it seems and a few minutes with a spanner to adjust the clutch pedal made it a lot better.
I followed this tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv2vzmG_P3w
I followed this tutorial:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yv2vzmG_P3w
This does sound like an issue with the clutch fluid - that would be the first thing to replace. As the engine bay gets hotter, so doe sthe fluid and any air might be coming out, which might give rise to the lighter pedal feeling (i.e. you are compressing air first, easy to do as opposed to compressing a fluid). Clutch fluid is the same as brake fluid and likewise should be changed regularly (2-3 years).
Flush the lines well and see how that goes.
After that, if there is no improvement, then we have to think about the clutch itself. You mention difficulty getting out of reverse; this may be a spin-down issue i.e. thre is a lot of drag on the clutch becaue it is not releasing properly, meaning it doesn stop quickly hence you cannot easily come out of reverse. Again, it could be a symptom of the clutch fluid needing refreshing, but it might be a sign of the diaphram spring being quite worn (along with other clutch components).
Flush the lines well and see how that goes.
After that, if there is no improvement, then we have to think about the clutch itself. You mention difficulty getting out of reverse; this may be a spin-down issue i.e. thre is a lot of drag on the clutch becaue it is not releasing properly, meaning it doesn stop quickly hence you cannot easily come out of reverse. Again, it could be a symptom of the clutch fluid needing refreshing, but it might be a sign of the diaphram spring being quite worn (along with other clutch components).
Edited by thatdude on Tuesday 9th February 14:00
Had a very similar issue with my racecar, would feel fine in between moving it about shed etc... but would slowly deteriorate during a race (New clutch, fluid, oil), In the end I changed the master and slave (slave was very tired looking), but I suspect there was a very minor leak somewhere allowing air in the system under operation.
Japserviceparts are great for those sorts of parts.
Japserviceparts are great for those sorts of parts.
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