Guidance on getting my first & dream car - Type R
Discussion
Hi,
Very new user but sometime anonymous lurker...
Since I saw the smile on the front of the FN2 whilst wasting some time in a school classroom I was hooked, and I'm finally (hopefully) in a position to actually get it as my first big boy car after sharing a Mazda 6 (Elaine) with my Mum for a couple of years. I replaced bits and bobs on the 6 from the brakes to the timing belt so I don't mind getting my hands dirty.
I want some idea of a good price to pay based on millage, I've had a little look around on facebook and here and it looks like they can be between 3-6k for a 2007 FN2, what can i expect if I pay towards the 3-4 range?
I've seen some with 120k miles for 4k and I have no idea if that's worth it or what I need to check has been replaced at that milage, Elaine I had from 100k to 220k but not sure if the Type R has similar staying power.
What should I look out for on test drive/inspection these days?
Can I post some descriptions of some I've found if that's allowed, some of the terms go over my head?
Very new user but sometime anonymous lurker...
Since I saw the smile on the front of the FN2 whilst wasting some time in a school classroom I was hooked, and I'm finally (hopefully) in a position to actually get it as my first big boy car after sharing a Mazda 6 (Elaine) with my Mum for a couple of years. I replaced bits and bobs on the 6 from the brakes to the timing belt so I don't mind getting my hands dirty.
I want some idea of a good price to pay based on millage, I've had a little look around on facebook and here and it looks like they can be between 3-6k for a 2007 FN2, what can i expect if I pay towards the 3-4 range?
I've seen some with 120k miles for 4k and I have no idea if that's worth it or what I need to check has been replaced at that milage, Elaine I had from 100k to 220k but not sure if the Type R has similar staying power.
What should I look out for on test drive/inspection these days?
Can I post some descriptions of some I've found if that's allowed, some of the terms go over my head?
By alk means put up some links to adverts.
As with all “older” cars, condition and not price is paramount. You’ll want to see plenty of receipts for servicing - regular oil changes with the right spec oil and good oil filters etc. TypeR’s also want for regular transmission oil changes (honda state 25,000 miles, Honda MTF Is best). Honda also specify a valve clearence inspection and adjustment; ideally this is done as regularly as the trans oil changes, however in reality it shoukd be completed at least once in 100,000 miles.
You have other things to inspect - state of bodywork / signs of repairs, state of the wheels, inspection of suspension parts for free play etc. If you can, see if you can get a pre-purchase inspection carried out at a garage of your choice (yours, not the sellers!). It might cost a couple of hundred quid, but you might dodge a bullet.
Check things like the radio, lights, all the buttons work. Check the air con works - when you switch it on, you’ll likely hear a clonk as the ac clutch engages, and the engine will adjust its idle rpms (air should blow cold too!). Check the doors, boot, bonnet shut nicely, theres no baggy feeling in the hand and foot controls. That the car goes easily through all the gears. Selecting reverse from neutral should not be difficult or give grinding noises, just the usual “snick”.
There are good cars out there to be had, but dont always correlate price with condition.
As with all “older” cars, condition and not price is paramount. You’ll want to see plenty of receipts for servicing - regular oil changes with the right spec oil and good oil filters etc. TypeR’s also want for regular transmission oil changes (honda state 25,000 miles, Honda MTF Is best). Honda also specify a valve clearence inspection and adjustment; ideally this is done as regularly as the trans oil changes, however in reality it shoukd be completed at least once in 100,000 miles.
You have other things to inspect - state of bodywork / signs of repairs, state of the wheels, inspection of suspension parts for free play etc. If you can, see if you can get a pre-purchase inspection carried out at a garage of your choice (yours, not the sellers!). It might cost a couple of hundred quid, but you might dodge a bullet.
Check things like the radio, lights, all the buttons work. Check the air con works - when you switch it on, you’ll likely hear a clonk as the ac clutch engages, and the engine will adjust its idle rpms (air should blow cold too!). Check the doors, boot, bonnet shut nicely, theres no baggy feeling in the hand and foot controls. That the car goes easily through all the gears. Selecting reverse from neutral should not be difficult or give grinding noises, just the usual “snick”.
There are good cars out there to be had, but dont always correlate price with condition.
Thank you both, very helpful, the one I was looking at sold, it was from a private fb group so no link but below is the description:
Selling my fn2
57 plate GT, 119k
* Remapped by TDI north to 215bhp with ecutek, I also have the obd ecutek reader to go with the car
* 4 selectable maps;
* 1st map is 215bhp
* 2nd map is 1st but with pops and bangs
* 3rd map is 2nd but with flat foot shifting
* 4th is immobiliser so it won’t start
* Adjustable Launch control
* Auto blip on downshift
*Suspension..
* Eibach springs
==Exterior..==
* Bola wheels (all been curbed) not by me
* Genuine mugen grill
* Fugen rear wing (paint not great)
* Usdm lights
* Spray tinted front and rear lights
* Hids
==Interior..==
* Double din head unit with Bluetooth
* Hybrid racing gear knob
==Under bonnet..==
* Carbon slam
* Carbon inlet cover
* Hks induction
* Painted rocker
* Skunk2 oil cap
* Dress up kit
* Tensioner + idler belt bearings replaced
* Air con fuse replaced and works lovely
==Body..==
* Bonnet, wings, bumper, splitter and doors all been repainted
* Roof rust done under warrenty last year
* Has a couple of very small dents on rear quarter
* Front arch trims need sticking back down but been like it for ages
* Has a japspeed decat manifold then miltek the rest of way
* Quaife LSD fitted and have the bills to back it up
* It's had discs and ebc yellow stuff pads recently. front shock and a lower arm replaced within the last 6 months
* Replaced oil (miller's) filter (hamp) hks filter replaced, genuine pollon filter and iridium spark plugs replaced within the last 5k miles
* Valve clearances done within the last 3k miles, had chain checked for stretch aswell and was fine
* No crunchy gears in any sort of rev range
* Folding mirrors don't work
* Handles and fuel cover and been wrapped badly
* Spoiler painted badly
* Comes with the private plate aswell - K20 WYS- (what you saying)
* Price will be 4k and not a penny less
I was mainly concerned about the millage & also insurance given the mods...but I also have no knowledge of 'mapping', or the importance of most of the things mentioned under the hood except tensioner, bearings and air con
from your comments looks like this was probably worth a view and has had all expected replacements for the millage. I'll keep in mind as I search and also try and find a garage for a pre-purchase inspection, depending on where the car is this might be challenging though
Selling my fn2
57 plate GT, 119k
* Remapped by TDI north to 215bhp with ecutek, I also have the obd ecutek reader to go with the car
* 4 selectable maps;
* 1st map is 215bhp
* 2nd map is 1st but with pops and bangs
* 3rd map is 2nd but with flat foot shifting
* 4th is immobiliser so it won’t start
* Adjustable Launch control
* Auto blip on downshift
*Suspension..
* Eibach springs
==Exterior..==
* Bola wheels (all been curbed) not by me
* Genuine mugen grill
* Fugen rear wing (paint not great)
* Usdm lights
* Spray tinted front and rear lights
* Hids
==Interior..==
* Double din head unit with Bluetooth
* Hybrid racing gear knob
==Under bonnet..==
* Carbon slam
* Carbon inlet cover
* Hks induction
* Painted rocker
* Skunk2 oil cap
* Dress up kit
* Tensioner + idler belt bearings replaced
* Air con fuse replaced and works lovely
==Body..==
* Bonnet, wings, bumper, splitter and doors all been repainted
* Roof rust done under warrenty last year
* Has a couple of very small dents on rear quarter
* Front arch trims need sticking back down but been like it for ages
* Has a japspeed decat manifold then miltek the rest of way
* Quaife LSD fitted and have the bills to back it up
* It's had discs and ebc yellow stuff pads recently. front shock and a lower arm replaced within the last 6 months
* Replaced oil (miller's) filter (hamp) hks filter replaced, genuine pollon filter and iridium spark plugs replaced within the last 5k miles
* Valve clearances done within the last 3k miles, had chain checked for stretch aswell and was fine
* No crunchy gears in any sort of rev range
* Folding mirrors don't work
* Handles and fuel cover and been wrapped badly
* Spoiler painted badly
* Comes with the private plate aswell - K20 WYS- (what you saying)
* Price will be 4k and not a penny less
I was mainly concerned about the millage & also insurance given the mods...but I also have no knowledge of 'mapping', or the importance of most of the things mentioned under the hood except tensioner, bearings and air con
from your comments looks like this was probably worth a view and has had all expected replacements for the millage. I'll keep in mind as I search and also try and find a garage for a pre-purchase inspection, depending on where the car is this might be challenging though
Edited by nlostwanderer on Monday 21st September 12:35
Edited by nlostwanderer on Monday 21st September 12:38
having a look at this one at the moment https://www.pistonheads.com/buy/listing/10866215?c...
will message them to ask if belt, valve clearances etc. have been done
will message them to ask if belt, valve clearances etc. have been done
Gassing Station | Honda | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff