Buying an S2000
Discussion
Hi
Looking to replace my wife’s MX5 with an S2000, looking through previous threads I see geo adjusters and brake calipers can be an issue, maybe ripped tops, any rust problems I should check on?, how about oil usage, are older or newer ones any different, do they all burn oil ??, how are prices, I’m aware that they have gone up in the last few years, have they stabilised now?, is it a case of older ones are lower priced for even mileage or are there any more desirable options / years ??
Any thoughts and advice appreciated
Looking to replace my wife’s MX5 with an S2000, looking through previous threads I see geo adjusters and brake calipers can be an issue, maybe ripped tops, any rust problems I should check on?, how about oil usage, are older or newer ones any different, do they all burn oil ??, how are prices, I’m aware that they have gone up in the last few years, have they stabilised now?, is it a case of older ones are lower priced for even mileage or are there any more desirable options / years ??
Any thoughts and advice appreciated
Great cars, I have just sold my third one. Lots to be aware of thought, but as long as you're aware, theres not a lot to worry about. Big problem areas are suspension arms and geo bushes. They seize very easily and you will probably end up cutting all of the bushes out and replacing with polybushes if it's not already been done... could be 20 hours labour & £££. They can rust badly on the rear arches so check around there, and also in the boot floor. Yes they do burn a bit of oil so check very regularly and top up to suit. Some will use a litre of oil per few thousand miles. Not a problem really as long as you keep on top of it. Canvas tops can tear and try and get a later car with the glass rear screen rather than the plastic one. The facelift cars of 2004 onwards are the most desirable, some say they have a more neutral handling than earlier ones which have a reputation to snap oversteer though for anyone whos half decent at driving should be able to quickly catch it.
HTH
HTH
As mentioned above. Geo bolts were not suitably lubricated from the factory, its over £1k to resolve, so recent alignment/work in that area is worth looking for. Remove the boot trim and check for rust on the floor, check rear inner arches, and front wings for rust, mine is currently undergoing serious restoration/protection.
Oil usage was a problem on the pre-facelifts, 2004 onwards don't seem to suffer from the issue. 2004+ also look better imo and as mentioned they are less snappy on the limit. They also have a few nice upgrades in terms of creature comforts. 2004+ also has a few engine upgrades, all which can be added to a pre-2004 but at a cost e.g. banjo bolts (engine oil starvation), valve retainers (can crack on over-rev on earlier cars)
The sweet spot is 2004-very early 2006, anything beyond this has a road tax hike of over double! e.g. £500+ a year!!. Beyond this there arent any noteworthy upgrades i'm aware of, so the tax hike is not worth it.
Some of the runout models (2009~) had crank float issues which essentially destroys the engine, thus avoid.
Oil usage was a problem on the pre-facelifts, 2004 onwards don't seem to suffer from the issue. 2004+ also look better imo and as mentioned they are less snappy on the limit. They also have a few nice upgrades in terms of creature comforts. 2004+ also has a few engine upgrades, all which can be added to a pre-2004 but at a cost e.g. banjo bolts (engine oil starvation), valve retainers (can crack on over-rev on earlier cars)
The sweet spot is 2004-very early 2006, anything beyond this has a road tax hike of over double! e.g. £500+ a year!!. Beyond this there arent any noteworthy upgrades i'm aware of, so the tax hike is not worth it.
Some of the runout models (2009~) had crank float issues which essentially destroys the engine, thus avoid.
Edited by shantybeater on Wednesday 13th November 14:37
Rust and engine issues can kill a car, so go in with your eyes open as above.
I wanted a pre facelift; I like the purity and simplicity, I don’t mind the tail happy reputation and I even like the larger plastic rear window!
There’s not a lot in it though - buy one you like in condition you’re happy with.
Brake calipers and geo bolts can be problematic but there’s not much you do to check them. If you filter out all cars that haven’t had a recent geo for example you’ll be narrowing the market a lot.
I’d budget to fix a few things such as these and then if you get away with it you did well.
I wanted a pre facelift; I like the purity and simplicity, I don’t mind the tail happy reputation and I even like the larger plastic rear window!
There’s not a lot in it though - buy one you like in condition you’re happy with.
Brake calipers and geo bolts can be problematic but there’s not much you do to check them. If you filter out all cars that haven’t had a recent geo for example you’ll be narrowing the market a lot.
I’d budget to fix a few things such as these and then if you get away with it you did well.
you will also see examples with none at all
The "wing" type was part of a GT style pack which included the front lip spoiler.
The "lip" either was on the car but a lot of owners back in the day got these avaiable very cheaply through group buys and imported from asian countries. My car has one of these replicas and no issues with it if prepped and painted correctly
To be honest what you want to ensure is you get a very well looked after example, and do not present the issues especially re bodywork as described above and dont get hung up on the spoiler
The "wing" type was part of a GT style pack which included the front lip spoiler.
The "lip" either was on the car but a lot of owners back in the day got these avaiable very cheaply through group buys and imported from asian countries. My car has one of these replicas and no issues with it if prepped and painted correctly
To be honest what you want to ensure is you get a very well looked after example, and do not present the issues especially re bodywork as described above and dont get hung up on the spoiler
Paulprior said:
Thanks guys
I have seen a few with spoilers, 2 different types, one a bit of a lip, the other more of a wing, they all claim these to be standard, is that correct??
I have seen a few with spoilers, 2 different types, one a bit of a lip, the other more of a wing, they all claim these to be standard, is that correct??
Edited by nobby8628 on Thursday 14th November 10:59
Your wife 'may' find the S2000 less agile & more bulky than necessary. Unless she is a lover of gear changing the lack of torque may drive (pun intended) her to distraction. Be very sure you wife undergoes a proper long test drive ideally in DRY conditions.
There are now a lot of Chaved up faffed around with cars around, few in good as-original condition.
As already advised you need to be very very sure of the maintenance history, if you encounter suspension problems you will be in deep expensive trouble
Although there is a tax hike later models don't have a sense of basicness about them. best understood when comparing back-to-back.
In summary & as 'a from new 2006 S2000 owner' unless you're a hardened accomplished driver that truly appreciates a fairly back-to-basic sports car I'd avoid such cars. Be prepared to & re-think your plan.
There are now a lot of Chaved up faffed around with cars around, few in good as-original condition.
As already advised you need to be very very sure of the maintenance history, if you encounter suspension problems you will be in deep expensive trouble
Although there is a tax hike later models don't have a sense of basicness about them. best understood when comparing back-to-back.
In summary & as 'a from new 2006 S2000 owner' unless you're a hardened accomplished driver that truly appreciates a fairly back-to-basic sports car I'd avoid such cars. Be prepared to & re-think your plan.
Thanks for your honest thoughts, to be honest its me that really wants to experience these cars, so when i buy one we will keep the mx5 as well, if she still prefers the MX5 then we will keep that and i will use the s2000 for a while and see what happens, the 9000 rpm appeals to me, The torque cant be less than an MX5 can it ?
to get the best from the s YOU have to WORK IT. thats the fun. i think this is where a lot of owners go wrong in choosing it.
if you are an enthusastic driver and want to engage with the car you cannot beat Honda for that.
They are sharp enough when on it and will just get you by if not giving it
if you are an enthusastic driver and want to engage with the car you cannot beat Honda for that.
They are sharp enough when on it and will just get you by if not giving it
Paulprior said:
Thanks for your honest thoughts, to be honest its me that really wants to experience these cars, so when i buy one we will keep the mx5 as well, if she still prefers the MX5 then we will keep that and i will use the s2000 for a while and see what happens, the 9000 rpm appeals to me, The torque cant be less than an MX5 can it ?
[quote=nobby8628]to get the best from the s YOU have to WORK IT. thats the fun. i think this is where a lot of owners go wrong in choosing it.
if you are an enthusastic driver and want to engage with the car you cannot beat Honda for that.
They are sharp enough when on it and will just get you by if not giving it
Exactly so. You have to really like pushing on & not bumbling about enjoying the occasional luxury of an auto box or cruise control which for me made it a one-trick car.
if you are an enthusastic driver and want to engage with the car you cannot beat Honda for that.
They are sharp enough when on it and will just get you by if not giving it
Exactly so. You have to really like pushing on & not bumbling about enjoying the occasional luxury of an auto box or cruise control which for me made it a one-trick car.
Hijacking as I am looking to replace my wifes MX5 1.5 RF with an S2000 in the new year so Im a similar situation, preferably the JDM AP1 purely as a have some fun track car and road car. I dont drive daily
Are they really that gutless? Ive come from an E92 M3 then a DC5 Integra, loved the K20 and its gearing to bits, worried an F20C may feel flat but what do I know ive never driven one. Said I was happy with the K20, so surely an F20C would provide the same sort of high rev fun?
Also, sounds like some necessary preventive maintenance wouldn't go a miss with engine and bushings so could run the bill up high for something I dont intend to keep mint. Not really a car I'd want to buy, the throw it away once it blew up like I might with a Clio 3 RS or something
Would I be better with a K20, something like an EP3 or DC2 with K20? Or fould an AP1 work well as a track car with some decent rubber/geo?
Are they really that gutless? Ive come from an E92 M3 then a DC5 Integra, loved the K20 and its gearing to bits, worried an F20C may feel flat but what do I know ive never driven one. Said I was happy with the K20, so surely an F20C would provide the same sort of high rev fun?
Also, sounds like some necessary preventive maintenance wouldn't go a miss with engine and bushings so could run the bill up high for something I dont intend to keep mint. Not really a car I'd want to buy, the throw it away once it blew up like I might with a Clio 3 RS or something
Would I be better with a K20, something like an EP3 or DC2 with K20? Or fould an AP1 work well as a track car with some decent rubber/geo?
They’re not gutless, but they’re not torquey. You have to rev them to make them go. They’re geared well for the engine and you end up changing gear quite a lot!
In terms of preventative maintenance, taking precautions to keep a good car rust free, and checking brake lines for corrosion is about it on top of regular servicing maintenance.
The geo bolts thing only really matters if you need to adjust them, and if you do and they’re stuck you’re going to fix the problem anyway.
Advanced engine aside, they’re really very simple cars, which for me is a large part of the appeal.
In terms of preventative maintenance, taking precautions to keep a good car rust free, and checking brake lines for corrosion is about it on top of regular servicing maintenance.
The geo bolts thing only really matters if you need to adjust them, and if you do and they’re stuck you’re going to fix the problem anyway.
Advanced engine aside, they’re really very simple cars, which for me is a large part of the appeal.
I agree, I bought one last weekend, an 05 in blue, haven’t had the chance to drive it much due to the weather, but the simplicity is also an appeal to me and it has enough power low down to cruise around in top gear at normal speeds
I do find the gearbox a bit crunchy especially when cold, any tips to improve it ?
I do find the gearbox a bit crunchy especially when cold, any tips to improve it ?
Paulprior said:
I do find the gearbox a bit crunchy especially when cold, any tips to improve it ?
No. I have to say the one thing that I am unable to resolve is the reputation for a rifle bolt gear change - second only for enjoying the car to the engine - versus reality. All over the forums there are people complaining of crunching, baulking, synchros popping out etc. The reality seems to be a slightly temperamental box which works well when it wants to but can catch you out. Mine is pretty sweet 1-4th but of all things going into 6th at a gentle cruise sometimes seems to “beat the synchro”. I wince every time I do it. I’ve changed the box oil and the clutch fluid and I’ve adjusted the clutch pedal - those are the three things you can do to try to achieve this mythological reputation the box seems to have but nobody seems to get in reality. After that it’s change the clutch or rebuild the box, but even that doesn’t guarantee success!I suspect some of it comes down to that mechanical simplicity again. There’s no clutch damper or cables in the system. You feel every gear!
Anyway, no! Try the above but you’re not alone. Seems to be part of the character.
griffter said:
No. I have to say the one thing that I am unable to resolve is the reputation for a rifle bolt gear change - second only for enjoying the car to the engine - versus reality. All over the forums there are people complaining of crunching, baulking, synchros popping out etc. The reality seems to be a slightly temperamental box which works well when it wants to but can catch you out. Mine is pretty sweet 1-4th but of all things going into 6th at a gentle cruise sometimes seems to “beat the synchro”. I wince every time I do it. I’ve changed the box oil and the clutch fluid and I’ve adjusted the clutch pedal - those are the three things you can do to try to achieve this mythological reputation the box seems to have but nobody seems to get in reality. After that it’s change the clutch or rebuild the box, but even that doesn’t guarantee success!
I suspect some of it comes down to that mechanical simplicity again. There’s no clutch damper or cables in the system. You feel every gear!
Anyway, no! Try the above but you’re not alone. Seems to be part of the character.
I find that 1st to 2nd is not to be rushed when the car is cold, I put that down to the previous owner being an older lady but it sounds like its just a feature of the gearbox (a fluid change did help). Other than that I have not had any issues and absolutely love the gear change. I can enjoy a fairly sedentary drive just because of the gear change. I took the car out from under its cover for the first time in a month yesterday, started first time and behaved perfectly. I suspect some of it comes down to that mechanical simplicity again. There’s no clutch damper or cables in the system. You feel every gear!
Anyway, no! Try the above but you’re not alone. Seems to be part of the character.
If you are storing it outside in the winter I would recommend a cover, I left mine out uncovered for about 6 weeks earlier in the year (family loss, wasn't in the mood for driving and just forgot about the car) and an 8 month old (reconditioned) caliper seized.
Congrats on the new car Paul, it'll be a blast when the weather changes.
Paulprior said:
I agree, I bought one last weekend, an 05 in blue, haven’t had the chance to drive it much due to the weather, but the simplicity is also an appeal to me and it has enough power low down to cruise around in top gear at normal speeds
I do find the gearbox a bit crunchy especially when cold, any tips to improve it ?
just have to be patient with the 'box until its not warm...1st to 2nd on mine is a pig when cold, but once up to temp it is lovely and lives up to the 'rifle-bolt' reputation. I may look at getting my box refreshed next year, it will be interesting to see what (if any difference) there is. I'm the second owner on a MY05 with 76k miles, so not a dog by any means.I do find the gearbox a bit crunchy especially when cold, any tips to improve it ?
This is confusing, i have also read other threads saying how great the gearbox is, but also many saying that its rather clunky changing gear like mine, i guess i need to try and find a way to try out some others to see if there is a difference, i have certainly had smoother gears changes on most other cars to be honest
A few more questions, when I start the engine it revs at 2000 rpm and then slowly drops over several minutes, is that normal??
What do I need to do to check and protect the rear wheel arches for rust ?, I sprayed around the inside of the arches with a pressure cleaner and chunks of what looks like a black protective layer fell away rather easily, I think wax oil is generally applied as a spray on but can I not just paint it on after removing the wheels ?, and what about the protective strip around the arch lip, keep it on or remove it ??
What do I need to do to check and protect the rear wheel arches for rust ?, I sprayed around the inside of the arches with a pressure cleaner and chunks of what looks like a black protective layer fell away rather easily, I think wax oil is generally applied as a spray on but can I not just paint it on after removing the wheels ?, and what about the protective strip around the arch lip, keep it on or remove it ??
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